PDA

View Full Version : Replacing power window switches


JolietJake
05-08-2008, 11:58 AM
A few of the power window switches in my car have died, I've heard they can be pricey to have fixed. What i want to know is how hard they usually are to replace yourself. I've been checking the door panel and i think i can get that off without much trouble. How hard are the switches themselves to replace?

JolietJake
05-08-2008, 02:45 PM
Not one single person here has ever done this or knows how?

pittpizza
05-08-2008, 02:49 PM
JJ, I may be able to help but need to know more:

(1) What window (e.g. driver's rear, passenger's front)??

(2) What kind of a car?

(3) What year?

jbroush99
05-08-2008, 02:53 PM
JJ, I may be able to help but need to know more:

(1) What window (e.g. driver's rear, passenger's front)??

(2) What kind of a car?

(3) What year?

2nd'D

jlseal
05-08-2008, 03:10 PM
In my experience, taking apart a car door is a major pain in the ass. You're looking at a full afternoon at least probably. I can't imagine that the switches themselves are that expensive, however.

JolietJake
05-08-2008, 03:13 PM
It's a 1992 Ford Taurus. :hot:
Every switch but the driver side.

The switches themselves only cost about $20, thats why i'd like to do it myself.

RandyTsai
05-08-2008, 03:19 PM
u just need to replace the motor. u need to unclip the door panels and replace the motor.

JolietJake
05-08-2008, 03:21 PM
u just need to replace the motor. u need to unclip the door panels and replace the motor.the windows still work when the master controls on the driver's door are used.

jbroush99
05-08-2008, 03:35 PM
Those switches through Ford list out at $24.98 apiece. There's still a ton of them available for order. Ford part #F2DZ.14529.A

JolietJake
05-08-2008, 03:38 PM
Yeah i can get the switches, thats no problem. I'm pretty sure it is the switches and not motors because the windows work with the master controls. I just need to know how hard it may be to replace the switches.

Poor2More
05-08-2008, 03:40 PM
Wow I have the same problem with my passenger windows, I have a FORD Mustang, I have no problem taking the door panel off, where can I get these switches B&M or maybe its the motor? where can I get one?

My passenger window can only roll down but I cant roll it back up, so is it a switch or the motor?

JolietJake
05-08-2008, 03:42 PM
I'll just get them from autozone or some place, have to order them though.

klwillis45
05-08-2008, 03:44 PM
the windows still work when the master controls on the driver's door are used.

Are you sure the lockout isn't stuck on the master controls? If the other 3 died at the same time it seems to me the problem may be with the main.

JolietJake
05-08-2008, 04:28 PM
I can check but i don't think so, one of the windows has been dead for a while, so even if the other two aren't really bad, at least one is. I still need to fix the other one at the least.

klwillis45
05-08-2008, 04:38 PM
I can check but i don't think so, one of the windows has been dead for a while, so even if the other two aren't really bad, at least one is. I still need to fix the other one at the least.

Ah, if there's only 1 dead your probably on the right track.

JolietJake
05-08-2008, 04:44 PM
Ah, if there's only 1 dead your probably on the right track.
Well three aren't working, but one hasn't worked in awhile, the other two just started. That may be the only one which is truly dead. So i still need to replace that one.

Anyone know of a site with diagrams or other help?

ITDEFX
05-08-2008, 05:27 PM
I have a Honda 97 CRV and my power windows on the passenger side seems like they are failing too. Boy this is going to be a pain in the ass to take apart.

h3llbring3r
05-08-2008, 05:49 PM
It's a 1992 Ford Taurus. :hot:
Every switch but the driver side.

The switches themselves only cost about $20, thats why i'd like to do it myself.

I had a Ford Explorer a few cars back that was also a '92.

The window switches did the exact same thing, the contacts in the rockers are defective and oxidize quickly. The worst was that some windows would roll down and then not roll up.

I bought a used copy of Chilton's car repair manual for my model. I recommend you do the same or visit your local B&N and hope they have a copy.
(try some local used bookstores as this was a very popular car model or http://www.ecrater.com/product.php?pid=333899). These are great fix it yourself manuals with step by step exploded view diagrams. I fixed every little quirky thing that broke on my car myself after I got that manual, it was great.

This manual will show you where to unscrew the door panel and how to remove it. WARNING: Ford also uses lots of small retention tabs that will break if you don't pry them out with a slotted screw-driver & bar in the correct manner. If these break your door will squeak like crazy or not stay on properly.

Once the panel is off there should be a small insert that holds the switches in place. They are easy to replace once the door-panel is removed. Once you replace the switches use them sparingly. Also, activate the child-lock switch so other people riding in your car wont mess with the windows.

The process is similar to this:
http://www.2carpros.com/how_to/power_window.htm
Pay special attention to the removal/pry tool in step 2, I accomplished this with a small pry-bar and slotted screw driver. If you break the tabs you'll be looking a buying an aftermarket door panel to replace it as the screws really only do half the job of holding on the doors.

http://www.2carpros.com/discovery/images/door_panel_3.jpg

this isn't exactly the same way in which mine was done but gives you an idea of the process.

Also, once mine started doing this they would break about every six months. What happened in my car was a door seal was bad and there was excess moisture build-up in the car accelerating the already bad oxidation problem in the already flawed switches. I didn't find this out until the headliner started sagging.

Aside: Early on with the problem the dealership SVC dept. tried to charge me for new window motors. When I showed them they worked fine when I bridged the connection they still said to I needed $400 new window motors

HotShotX
05-08-2008, 07:55 PM
Having replaced 3 of the window tracks on a 1989 Nissan Stanza (which involves removal of both track and motor), and I can assure you that this is an easy job to handle if you have the parts and instructions on hand.

Front Window Regulator:
http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId,1775701/initialAction,repairGuide/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c15280063d1d

Rear Window Regulator:
http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId,1775701/initialAction,repairGuide/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c15280063d32

You'll be taking your door interior apart, but honestly, it's not that hard of a job. Probably take 2 hours your first attempt, and an hour or less each time afterwards. Good Luck.

~HotShotX

JolietJake
05-08-2008, 08:38 PM
Well i went and check the child lock switch and sure enough, it was turned on. The three windows i thought were bad are fine, the other one is still dead though. I don't think it is the switch that is bad on that one though as neither it's own switch nor the master switch will operate it. What is the most likely thing to go bad besides the switch, I'm guessing the motor?

I was reading the instructions for replacing the motor, you have to drill out and replace rivets, may be to much trouble.

Ender
05-08-2008, 11:11 PM
I was reading the instructions for replacing the motor, you have to drill out and replace rivets, may be to much trouble.

You're either a DIYer or not, really. There's no shame in not being one. I am a complete DIYer when it comes to anything in my house or yard, but I don't touch car repair. Why? Because I need that car working to get me to/from work, and if I screw something up, then my job is in danger. So I choose to get it repaired by professionals.

JolietJake
05-08-2008, 11:51 PM
Well i don't have a drill to drill them out anyway.