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So me and a friend just learned the hard way about activating/deactivating a system. In July we both sold our systems to upgrade to the 80gb MGS4 bundle. But we did not know to deactivate the system for each PSN account.

I also have 2 PSN accounts. The first I set up quickly, with 1 purchase, and then my 2nd that I use all the time. And since we share, those 3 names are now tied to 4 systems.

Ive called Sony to see if they can deactivate my old system (which Ive read some users have had success with) They have to call me back.

I called again to delete my 1st PSN name, but was told that its impossible.

What a mess. Sony's PS3 knowledge system makes mention of terminating an account, but that can mess with everything depending on Master/Sub settings. Or they suggest you can call and request the account be banned! Geez.

Here's my situation. I have an older 52' RCA 1080i HDTV. It only has Component HD imputs. NO HDMI. The components are full with my 360, and HDTV programming. My TV also has a DVI connection, but it isn't the standard one but DVI-digital, the dual link I believe. IT looks the DVI -Dual link in this photo.http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi..._Types.svg.png

So I'm looking to use the DVI connection for my PS3 as opposed to buying a component spllitter and having to leave my couch to switch.

Most of the DVI ones look like the single link http://cgi.ebay.com/FOR-SONY-PLAYSTATION3-PS3-3FT-GOLD-HDMI-to-DVI-D-CABLE_W0QQitemZ290267199127QQcmdZViewItem?hash=ite m290267199127&_trkparms=72%3A1421|39%3A1|66%3A2|65 %3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
Are these compatible?

If I do go DVI is there any difference in picture quality? Any other suggestions? TIA

Originally Posted by agordonwsu Are these compatible? If I do go DVI is there any difference in picture quality? Any other suggestions? TIA

Dual link is compatible with Dual link and Single link, so it should work.

There is no difference between HDMI and DVI in picture quality. HDMI is basically DVI + Sound.

If you already own an HDMI cable, you could just get an adaptor.

Post your question here:

http://www.cheapassgamer.com/forums/...d.php?t=165729

Is it possible to swap HDs from 2 PS3s? I'm getting an 80 gig PS3 from ebay and I'm taking my current one back to Target. It's also an 80 gig model. If I deactivate my Target one and activate my ebay one, can I just swap the HDs in the 2 so that I don't need to redownload/install all of my games?

You could swap but it'd do no good. The backup process the PS3 uses, ties the backup to that particular PS3. When you restore on the new one most your stuff would be missing (i.e. gameshare stuff/downloads).

Good move to deactive the old one anyway. That way one of your shares isn't taken up but you will have to redownload everything.

Originally Posted by StrandedBrit You could swap but it'd do no good. The backup process the PS3 uses, ties the backup to that particular PS3. When you restore on the new one most your stuff would be missing (i.e. gameshare stuff/downloads). Good move to deactive the old one anyway. That way one of your shares isn't taken up but you will have to redownload everything.

Ok. So my PS3 actually sold on ebay for $600! So now I need to wipe it and I won't get the chance to try out the swap. What's the best way to get it ready for sale? Obviously I need to deactivate it and format it. Is that all?

I'm looking to get a PS3. Generally, it goes like this, correct (in order from best to worst)?

60GB, 80GB (old), and a wash between the 40 and the 20

Originally Posted by lolwut? I'm looking to get a PS3. Generally, it goes like this, correct (in order from best to worst)? 60GB, 80GB (old), and a wash between the 40 and the 20

It's actually more complicated that than. The 60 gig is definitely the best if we're talking used and the 80 is good if you don't care about BC but want wireless. If you want BC and don't care about wifi, the 20 might be better. And vice versa. The 40 could be better than the 20 if you want wifi but not BC. Tell us what your priorities are and we'll be able to tell you which is best.

Originally Posted by torifile Ok. So my PS3 actually sold on ebay for $600! So now I need to wipe it and I won't get the chance to try out the swap. What's the best way to get it ready for sale? Obviously I need to deactivate it and format it. Is that all?

Yup.

From some of these comments-can someone confirm that you *CAN* deactivate a PS3 in the menu and then "reactivate" a new one so that you can use any content you "bought" on it? And do that any arbitrary number of times?

It's sounding like people are saying you can do that, but before people were saying the opposite.

EDIT: This will affect where I rent the Bionic Commando remake and Megaman 9...the PS3's controller has SUCH a better d-pad, but the 360's rental system is (I thought) more lenient in that at least you can transfer content once a year (if their activation servers are still up...)

Originally Posted by Wolfpup From some of these comments-can someone confirm that you *CAN* deactivate a PS3 in the menu and then "reactivate" a new one so that you can use any content you "bought" on it? And do that any arbitrary number of times? It's sounding like people are saying you can do that, but before people were saying the opposite. EDIT: This will affect where I rent the Bionic Commando remake and Megaman 9...the PS3's controller has SUCH a better d-pad, but the 360's rental system is (I thought) more lenient in that at least you can transfer content once a year (if their activation servers are still up...)

The deactivating is more of a safeguard than anything else. Even if you buy another PS3 (presuming you haven't shared your account/had 5 PS3s die on you) you can still download all your bought stuff to it. Activating/Deactivating is more a concern for gamesharers/people who have gone through multiple machines.

Also, not sure what you mean by rent ....

It's impossible to "buy" content that uses an "activation" system, hence rental, but anyway that's good...if I'm understanding right, you CAN move content an unlimited number of times (basically like iTunes) as long as you remember to deactivate first, which is good...if I'm understanding it right, that would be better than Microsoft's system (at least slightly)....except I know there are exceptions at least in the number of times something can be activated without deactivation on Sony's system...

Originally Posted by torifile It's actually more complicated that than. The 60 gig is definitely the best if we're talking used and the 80 is good if you don't care about BC but want wireless. If you want BC and don't care about wifi, the 20 might be better. And vice versa. The 40 could be better than the 20 if you want wifi but not BC. Tell us what your priorities are and we'll be able to tell you which is best.

Reliability is first for me, followed by cost. It's a wash for me cause while I'd like to have the ability to play PS2 games whenever I want, I doubt I'm going to use it that much, and I usually do all my gaming right next to my computer, so I just play online wired.

I can't find any information on this problem and I was wondering if anyone knows anything on this or has thesame problem.

I own a Samsung 46' Series 6 (LN46A650A).
i have a 80 gig ps3 from the mgs4 bundles.
I am using a monster HDMI ver1.3 (red logo) cable.

the problem is that the screen will fuzz for a split second. there is some grey static and you can hear a pop. i have seen it when watching dvds and even on the main XMB menu. i have never seen it when playing games or blu rays.

it only happens sometimes when it is first turned on. after longer use the issue does not seem to happen. its not very frequent but still anoying.

Ideas?

I bought some off Craigslistt but he lived about 2 hours away and he shipped first so i bit. Problem is they have the case and everything but they dont look blue like a regular blu ray game and when i put it in

Insead of saying like Unchartered(Press x to play) It says BDROM or something like that?

Does it work?

Take a picture of the disk.

There not fake. What makes you think they are fake anyway? It doesn't tell the name of the movie like it does for games. I'm pretty sure all of my blu-rays says BD-Rom that is normal.

That's normal for most Blu-rays.

Only a select few actually say what they are on the Main Screen.

my blurays say things like that to