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The Ultimate 'Build-A-PC' Thread. Complete With Pricings & Recommendations (06/06/10)


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#841 kilm

kilm

Posted 12 June 2010 - 10:42 PM

I was specifically talking about this case: http://www.newegg.co....82E16811204039 - In this case it's definitely a choice of form over function, but I really like the way it looks, and would love to have it as a Media Center PC once it's done doing duty as a regular desktop. I just want to make sure I'm not going to run into any problems with airflow/card space/etc.

To be honest, I think that case looks to have pretty terrible airflow. There is no intake fan to direct cooler air from outside to inside the case. With only one case fan in the rear, it means it'll not have a uni-directional airflow, but instead air is moved from every gap and hole it can find. Spacing wise you won't run into any issue since there is enough room for all your hadware. Though it does have a very unique design, I'll give it that.


INCyr is actually talking about whether or not he'll have major problems with airflow in the case linked above, not whether or not it's the best case for airflow and cooling.

Simple answer: No, you shouldn't have major issues with the case. 1 rear 140mm fan, 2 optional 92mm fans. It's difficult to tell what the size of the card is and the size of the case, but assuming the card is ~8.5 inches, it'll be a tight fit.

#842 Mid Boss

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Posted 12 June 2010 - 10:48 PM

install win 7 upgrade but dont enter the key when it asks, then reinstall over it.


Oh, it does still work for 7? Its just a bit more straightforward to go for a full or oem version and just install once so that's still what I'd recommend for anyone asking.


#843 Ardrid

Ardrid

Posted 13 June 2010 - 12:59 AM

Thanks for the advice. I'll take a look at both the 5770 and the 5850, but given the price difference, I'm leaning towards the 5770. I'm just wondering if the extra $$ now won't save me a bit down the road. Also, looking around the newegg site, is there really any difference between the various 5770 cards? The other two I was looking at were the MSI (http://www.newegg.co...7-490-_-Product) and the Sapphire (http://www.newegg.co...N82E16814102868). Also, looking at the "Customer Choice Awards", this card (http://www.newegg.co...N82E16814130339) seems to be pretty good for a decent price. Is it still worth looking at, or is it old enough it's not worth picking up?



Like SOSTrooper has already indicated, there aren't any real differences. It largely boils down to build quality and warranty. Some cards are also factory overclocked. Given that XFX gives you a double lifetime warranty, I would stick with that.

Also, the Corsair Fan I had picked out (750TX) costs as much as the 650HX. The 650TX is another $30 cheaper at $90. Is the 650HX really that much better, or would I be fine with either of the TX models?



All things considered, I would stick with the HX650W. There are a few reasons for that: generally, the HX models are higher quality PSUs. Some people have had some problems with the TX line. The TX line also doesn't have as stringent voltage/power regulation. Finally, there's really nothing nicer than a modular PSU to keep your case neat and the air flow going. I was actually using the TX650W for my most recent build but I sent it back for the HX. I just couldn't get used to going back to a non-modular PSU :) All that to say, if money is really an issue, the TX is certainly a damn good PSU; but, if you can spare the $30, I'd definitely go with the HX.

Regarding MoBo's, I'm not entirely sure what the difference between the following two are:

GA-P55-USB3: http://www.newegg.co...N82E16813128425
GA-P55A-UD3: http://www.newegg.co...N82E16813128412

The reason I'm asking is that I can get the UD3 + i5-750 at Microcenter for $300 ($280 after MIR), where as the i5-750 + UD3 = $340 at Newegg. The USB3 + i5-750 would bring it down to $310, and that combo isn't available at Microcenter. (The i5-650 would knock an additional $20 off - is the downgrade worth $20?) And neither board actually says they support 1600 Memory, which seems kind of odd... Looking at them, they seem pretty equivelent, which seems to suggest I should take advantage of the Microcenter deal - I just want to make sure there's not something I'm missing.



The major difference between those two boards is the addition of SATA-III (6Gbps) on the UD3. I would definitely stick with that board and grab the combo discount with the i5-750. Like SOS Trooper said, you can always overclock your 750 (which Turbo mode will take care of anyway), but you can't add 2 more cores to the 650. As an aside, if you wanted to spend the extra money, I would absolutely recommend the P7P55D-E Pro (my current board). Honestly, you can't go wrong with either board. It really just comes down to how much you want to spend and whether you need the extra options/features for overclocking. I think the UD3 should be more than enough for your build.

Anyway, thanks again for the answers - I tried to read up on things before asking so as to not ask dumb questions that are better answered by "go google it and find out", so here's hoping that worked.

Oh, and thanks to all for the wishlist links - that's the first time I've used that feature on newegg, so I wasn't sure how to get that link correctly. (Still don't actually know, but I can copy and paste!)



Not a problem. It's been awhile since I've had the opportunity to talk about PC hardware. I always enjoy helping out people building a new rig. It's fun stuff :)

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#844 KrizB

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 01:10 AM

Thanks guys.

Full copy it is then, unless the local PC shop doesn't charge too much for a licensed copy & install. Just have to wait until Monday for them to open.

Spent all this time focusing on getting the upgraded version, that I forgot it had no OS to upgrade from. :lol:

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#845 paz9x

paz9x

Posted 13 June 2010 - 05:48 AM

Thanks guys.

Full copy it is then, unless the local PC shop doesn't charge too much for a licensed copy & install. Just have to wait until Monday for them to open.

Spent all this time focusing on getting the upgraded version, that I forgot it had no OS to upgrade from. :lol:


why not just buy and dl it?
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#846 letmeinnow

letmeinnow

Posted 13 June 2010 - 08:01 PM

Help needed,
I just put a new mobo+CPU+RAM in, and the PC shuts down 1sec after it hit the power button.
No Beeps, nothing on screen
case fan & CPU fan spin then everything stops.
LED on mobo stays on and is green.
power button & reset on case wont do anything, i have to flip the switch on PSU.
I upluged all drives and put in a diff stick of ram, same thing.
i dont think its the PSU as ive been using it for the past year in this case with a diff mobo+CPU+RAM until yesterday.
Im thinking its a short or a search for this prob some people say to reseat the CPU.
i had a little trouble installing the CPU Heatsink, the clamp things were getting stuck in the wrong position as i set it on the CPU.
All conetions are correct 24pin mobo power, 4pin mobo cpu power, cpu cooler fan power in correct plug, case fan in mobo plug. using onboard video.

im going to remove the mobo from the case and hook up another PSU & try it outside of the case.
if i do reseat the CPU can i use 55% isopropyl alcohol to clean the Thermal compound? thats all i have.
SYStem info
Asus M4a785-M
AMD Athlon II X3 425 -OEM
COOLER MASTER Hyper 101 RR-H101-22FK-RA
G.Skill 2GB (2 x 1GB) F2-6400CL5D-2GBNQ
only have 1 stick ram in right now
Linkworld LPJ12-400W PSU i got from Microcenter a few years ago
maybe its not strong enuff?


#847 spraypaintnink

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 08:31 PM

Can anyone recommend a good cooling system? My gtx 465 gets really hot when maxing out games. I have usb fans that work decent right now but I want something more permanent in it. I have this http://www.gateway.c...t/529668380.php

#848 paz9x

paz9x

Posted 13 June 2010 - 08:48 PM

Can anyone recommend a good cooling system? My gtx 465 gets really hot when maxing out games. I have usb fans that work decent right now but I want something more permanent in it. I have this http://www.gateway.c...t/529668380.php


if possible id try mounting an intake fan on the side panel. I cant tell if theres an intake on the front if not id definatley try and add one there. its difficult on the proprietary cases.
"I am the Walrus" "Shut the Fuck up Donnie"

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#849 kilm

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 08:51 PM

Can anyone recommend a good cooling system? My gtx 465 gets really hot when maxing out games. I have usb fans that work decent right now but I want something more permanent in it. I have this http://www.gateway.c...t/529668380.php


Better cooling? Like water cooling? The case itself doesn't really lend itself to better cooling.

Video cards are always going to be the hotting thing in your case. Maybe something like this? http://www.newegg.co...N82E16835192007

#850 Mid Boss

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 09:02 PM

Can anyone recommend a good cooling system? My gtx 465 gets really hot when maxing out games. I have usb fans that work decent right now but I want something more permanent in it. I have this http://www.gateway.c...t/529668380.php


How hot are we talking here? The GTX 400 cards are going to run hot no matter what. The good thing is that they're supposed to be able to run at those higher temperatures and work fine. Here's part of a review of the 465 that shows what should be normal temps for those cards: http://www.anandtech...orce-gtx-465/14

There are some aftermarket video card coolers out there, but I don't know if there are any available that are compatible with your card yet. At least newegg doesn't seem to have any. Also replacing the cooling on the card itself will void the warranty so its not really recommended.


#851 spraypaintnink

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 09:12 PM

How hot are we talking here? The GTX 400 cards are going to run hot no matter what. The good thing is that they're supposed to be able to run at those higher temperatures and work fine. Here's part of a review of the 465 that shows what should be normal temps for those cards: http://www.anandtech...orce-gtx-465/14

There are some aftermarket video card coolers out there, but I don't know if there are any available that are compatible with your card yet. At least newegg doesn't seem to have any. Also replacing the cooling on the card itself will void the warranty so its not really recommended.


It's in the low 40's Celsius when not playing games and has gotten up to the high 60's celsius when playing. I guess thats tolerable for my gpu to take but after gaming for an hour or so I sometimes get my gaming screen turning red. I just assumed it was the temperature rising so fast.


Better cooling? Like water cooling? The case itself doesn't really lend itself to better cooling.

Video cards are always going to be the hotting thing in your case. Maybe something like this? http://www.newegg.co...N82E16835192007


So it just goes into the back slot by the video card? The reason I went with usb cooling is because my cousin who installed my psu and video card said the port was directly above the card, and was afraid to damage it.


if possible id try mounting an intake fan on the side panel. I cant tell if theres an intake on the front if not id definatley try and add one there. its difficult on the proprietary cases.


I could take off the front panel and add a fan or would too much dust get into the system?

Edited by spraypaintnink, 13 June 2010 - 09:21 PM.
double post error.


#852 kilm

kilm

Posted 13 June 2010 - 09:59 PM

It's in the low 40's Celsius when not playing games and has gotten up to the high 60's celsius when playing. I guess thats tolerable for my gpu to take but after gaming for an hour or so I sometimes get my gaming screen turning red. I just assumed it was the temperature rising so fast.

So it just goes into the back slot by the video card? The reason I went with usb cooling is because my cousin who installed my psu and video card said the port was directly above the card, and was afraid to damage it.

I could take off the front panel and add a fan or would too much dust get into the system?


Your gaming screen turns red? Yeah, that's not supposed to happen...

Yes, that product I linked should go in a PCI slot somewhere around the video card (usually below it)

You could take off the front panel and add a fan, and there are fan filters you could buy or create to handle the dust.
I think what he was talking about is the side panel of the case. There are vent perforation you might be able to stick an intake fan to.

#853 SOSTrooper

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 11:39 PM

Help needed,
I just put a new mobo+CPU+RAM in, and the PC shuts down 1sec after it hit the power button.
No Beeps, nothing on screen
case fan & CPU fan spin then everything stops.
LED on mobo stays on and is green.
power button & reset on case wont do anything, i have to flip the switch on PSU.
I upluged all drives and put in a diff stick of ram, same thing.
i dont think its the PSU as ive been using it for the past year in this case with a diff mobo+CPU+RAM until yesterday.
Im thinking its a short or a search for this prob some people say to reseat the CPU.
i had a little trouble installing the CPU Heatsink, the clamp things were getting stuck in the wrong position as i set it on the CPU.
All conetions are correct 24pin mobo power, 4pin mobo cpu power, cpu cooler fan power in correct plug, case fan in mobo plug. using onboard video.

im going to remove the mobo from the case and hook up another PSU & try it outside of the case.
if i do reseat the CPU can i use 55% isopropyl alcohol to clean the Thermal compound? thats all i have.
SYStem info
Asus M4a785-M
AMD Athlon II X3 425 -OEM
COOLER MASTER Hyper 101 RR-H101-22FK-RA
G.Skill 2GB (2 x 1GB) F2-6400CL5D-2GBNQ
only have 1 stick ram in right now
Linkworld LPJ12-400W PSU i got from Microcenter a few years ago
maybe its not strong enuff?



I would try taking the motherboard out of the case and see if it turns on fine that way. Make sure you don't have more motherboard standoffs than you need. You don't really need to reapply the thermal paste if you're going to remount the CPU fan, but better safe than sorry I suppose. I use 90% isopropyl alcohol to clean off, but 55% is good too. The power supply is one of the junky ones, it will work for you, but maybe when you save more money you can buy a more reliable one. Never go cheap on the PSU because it can damage all your computer parts if it sparks. This Corsair 400W is $30 after rebate, it'll be a good investment if you're cash strapped while wanting some peace of mind.


It's in the low 40's Celsius when not playing games and has gotten up to the high 60's celsius when playing. I guess thats tolerable for my gpu to take but after gaming for an hour or so I sometimes get my gaming screen turning red. I just assumed it was the temperature rising so fast.


High 60's celsius is perfectly fine temperature when running games. The ATI 4800 series run at about high 70's to low 80's during full load. These video cards are designed to last even in extreme temperature. I don't think you should worry about it as long as you're not encountering any crashes or artifacts. But since you are encountering some problem, maybe try updating to the latest nVidia drivers if you haven't done so yet?


I could take off the front panel and add a fan or would too much dust get into the system?


Dust is going to get in no matter what. From looking at the interior of your case, it doesn't look like you can mount a fan towards the front of the case for intake. You can probably get away with just using some putty and stick a 120mm fan inside the case for intake, if you want to do it the ghetto way. If you can get around to it, maybe you can open the side panel of the case up and snap a sharp picture for us to look at? We can probably help you figure out ways to add fans to efficiently cool your system down.

Edited by SOSTrooper, 13 June 2010 - 11:55 PM.

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| XFX HD 5870 | Corsair HX750W PSU | Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120 | Antec P180 v1.1 |


#854 letmeinnow

letmeinnow

Posted 13 June 2010 - 11:51 PM

-Update
i swaped the PSU with a new one

now the Mobo led comes on when i flip the PSU switch on the back before i push the power button on the case.
and when i hit the power button i see the case fan just barely spin and stop, Led stays on, nothing else going on, buttons wont
do anything have to flip the PSU switch off.

Any info on if the 55% isopropyl alcohol is ok to clean off the thermal compound from CPU and Heatsink? if not
im going to wait until i get some 90% to pull the Mobo out and test.
unless anyone knows something else i should do.


#855 SOSTrooper

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 11:57 PM

-Update
i swaped the PSU with a new one

now the Mobo led comes on when i flip the PSU switch on the back before i push the power button on the case.
and when i hit the power button i see the case fan just barely spin and stop, Led stays on, nothing else going on, buttons wont
do anything have to flip the PSU switch off.

Any info on if the 55% isopropyl alcohol is ok to clean off the thermal compound from CPU and Heatsink? if not
im going to wait until i get some 90% to pull the Mobo out and test.
unless anyone knows something else i should do.


55% is going to be fine, it's weaker than 90%, and I use 90% to clean.

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| Intel Core i7 920 @ 3.8GHz | OCZ Gold 6GB (3x2GB) DDR3 1600 | Asus P6T Deluxe V2 | 2x Intel X18-M 80GB RAID0 |
| XFX HD 5870 | Corsair HX750W PSU | Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120 | Antec P180 v1.1 |


#856 letmeinnow

letmeinnow

Posted 14 June 2010 - 12:02 AM

55% is going to be fine, it's weaker than 90%, and I use 90% to clean.


Ya sorry, i had the reply window open before you made your post about the alcohol. i got a phone call before i finished typing it and didnt see your post.
Thanks


#857 letmeinnow

letmeinnow

Posted 14 June 2010 - 04:08 AM

-Update 2: POST

I took the Mobo+PSU out and jumped the power
1 beep, boot screen, all looks normal :bouncy:
so it was a short then, i was careful when i put it in the case so i
dont know where the short was from. standoffs are in the right place.
can someone give me a list of all the ways a mobo gets shorted in a case so
i can watch for them when i put it back in?
ive never had this happen before. the other 2 mobos i put in this case
before worked fine.


#858 kilm

kilm

Posted 14 June 2010 - 04:47 AM

-Update 2: POST

I took the Mobo+PSU out and jumped the power
1 beep, boot screen, all looks normal :bouncy:
so it was a short then, i was careful when i put it in the case so i
dont know where the short was from. standoffs are in the right place.
can someone give me a list of all the ways a mobo gets shorted in a case so
i can watch for them when i put it back in?
ive never had this happen before. the other 2 mobos i put in this case
before worked fine.


Unfortunately, there are no 100% sure fire preventative measures, because even if you do take all the right steps, those types of things might still happen just because.

Really, stuff you probably already know, keep the computer clean, keep your area clean, keep yourself grounded, make sure everything is in the right place, have the right and reliable parts... so on.

#859 letmeinnow

letmeinnow

Posted 14 June 2010 - 10:13 AM

-Update 3: Success

I put 2 of the plastic standoff things in 2 holes i thought could be the problem and it worked. no more short.


#860 KrizB

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Posted 14 June 2010 - 05:21 PM

why not just buy and dl it?


No reason not to, just prefer a physical copy I guess.

Got some money this morning for my birthday so I just ordered it from Amazon, $149.99 OTD.

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#861 Kevfactor

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Posted 14 June 2010 - 06:35 PM

i built me a pretty good pc last year
i7, 295 card, 1000w psu, 3 hard drives, x-fi sound card,dominator rams,antec case, classified mobo. a heat sink half the size of my head. my main complaint is it uses about twice as much power as i'd like(the ups said it took like 50% of the power while my tv and xbox take maybe7- 9% on a good day lol. of course later found the ups couldnt keep up with my pcs watt demand either(random restarts) so i can only use a surge protextor)

main thing thing i need now is a ssd, improve performance and bet will use a lot less electricity, got to keep an eye out on the egg i guess =p

#862 paz9x

paz9x

Posted 14 June 2010 - 07:23 PM

i built me a pretty good pc last year
i7, 295 card, 1000w psu, 3 hard drives, x-fi sound card,dominator rams,antec case, classified mobo. a heat sink half the size of my head. my main complaint is it uses about twice as much power as i'd like(the ups said it took like 50% of the power while my tv and xbox take maybe7- 9% on a good day lol. of course later found the ups couldnt keep up with my pcs watt demand either(random restarts) so i can only use a surge protextor)

main thing thing i need now is a ssd, improve performance and bet will use a lot less electricity, got to keep an eye out on the egg i guess =p


I dont think youll see a drop in power useage, performance will increase though. i7's particular 1366 socket i7's use a lot of power. the 295 sucks up a lot of juice as well.
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#863 spraypaintnink

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Posted 18 June 2010 - 01:36 AM

Dust is going to get in no matter what. From looking at the interior of your case, it doesn't look like you can mount a fan towards the front of the case for intake. You can probably get away with just using some putty and stick a 120mm fan inside the case for intake, if you want to do it the ghetto way. If you can get around to it, maybe you can open the side panel of the case up and snap a sharp picture for us to look at? We can probably help you figure out ways to add fans to efficiently cool your system down.


I just ended up getting the vcool, which reviews shows cools temperatures about 5c. I have never been over 68c anyways, so I think this will suffice. Thanks for all the help man.

#864 Fatso2027

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 05:11 AM

So I'm finally ready to buy for my new computer, decided to scrap everything from the free comp, except the wireless card. I'm pretty sure I have everything I need selected, except the graphics card.
I'm just not sure what is the best for my budget, witch for the card I would like to only spend ~$100, give or take.

And just to confirm, these would be the only parts I need.
MoBo
Processor
HDD
Case
Power Supply
RAM
Optical Drive
Graphics card

#865 SOSTrooper

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 06:22 PM

So I'm finally ready to buy for my new computer, decided to scrap everything from the free comp, except the wireless card. I'm pretty sure I have everything I need selected, except the graphics card.
I'm just not sure what is the best for my budget, witch for the card I would like to only spend ~$100, give or take.

And just to confirm, these would be the only parts I need.
MoBo
Processor
HDD
Case
Power Supply
RAM
Optical Drive
Graphics card


Right, those are the only components you need to build a computer. As long as you choose parts that are compatible with each others (particularly the motherboard, CPU, and RAM), then you should be good to go. It'll be nice if you list or link us to the parts you wanna get, just in case. We can tell you if you picked out the right parts.

As for video card, at $100 range, I'd probably go with something like an nVidia GTS 250 or ATI Radeon 4850. Both models are still in stock from various manufacturer on Newegg. I would stick with 1GB of memory for the video card if you would like to run some games on higher resolution (like 1080p). They're slightly older models with no DirectX 11 support. If you want a decent gaming video card with DX11 support then I would recommend looking into ATI 5750, but it's a bit out of your $100 price range (They ring in a around $120-$130).

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| Intel Core i7 920 @ 3.8GHz | OCZ Gold 6GB (3x2GB) DDR3 1600 | Asus P6T Deluxe V2 | 2x Intel X18-M 80GB RAID0 |
| XFX HD 5870 | Corsair HX750W PSU | Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120 | Antec P180 v1.1 |


#866 Fatso2027

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 07:01 PM

I'm looking for this to be a decent gaming computer, so I might go up to around 150 for the graphics card. I have everything else all picked out, I'll get a link to them for ya.
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16827106334
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16811154095
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16822152173
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16813130266
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16817165004
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16820231122
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16819103872

This is the card I chose, off of your recommendations.
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16814131354

If there's something else in that price range that would give me better quality, please let me know! My very basic goal for this computer is I want to run WoW on Ultra 60 frames. If it can do that then it will work great for my other purposes.

Edited by Fatso2027, 19 June 2010 - 07:35 PM.


#867 KrizB

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 11:31 PM

Win 7 came today and I finally got my PC up and running.
Of course the PSU crapped out afterwards.
Going to have it looked at next week to see if that is the only thing wrong before contacting NewEgg for a replacement/refund.

Just noticed the customer reviews on NewEgg for the Rosewill RV2-600;
46% *****
39% *

Stayed alive just long enough to install windows and died. Piece of junk

Ain't that the truth.

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#868 assassinX

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 07:19 AM

Hello everyone, its been about 5 years since I've looked at computer parts and I need a build for $600. I currently have an Antec Earthwatts power supply that came with a sonata designer 500 mid tower case. Could I get a decent gaming build for about $600?
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#869 SOSTrooper

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 02:39 AM

I'm looking for this to be a decent gaming computer, so I might go up to around 150 for the graphics card. I have everything else all picked out, I'll get a link to them for ya.
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16827106334
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16811154095
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16822152173
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16813130266
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16817165004
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16820231122
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16819103872

This is the card I chose, off of your recommendations.
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16814131354

If there's something else in that price range that would give me better quality, please let me know! My very basic goal for this computer is I want to run WoW on Ultra 60 frames. If it can do that then it will work great for my other purposes.

.

2 things you can do to improve your build. First, get a power supply from a more reputable manufacturer, ie Antec, Corsair, Thermaltake, OCZ. I don't want you to trust your $600 computer on a junky $20 power supply. A bad power supply can kill your computer parts when they do spark or smoke. You don't need anything high in wattage; for you 400W to 500W is good enough.

Second thing, that Samsung 5400RPM hard drive is mainly for storage purpose. It's a bit too slow to use as your primary drive. At your price point of $70ish I would go with the Western Digital 640GB Black.

Other than those 2, everything else look good.

.

Hello everyone, its been about 5 years since I've looked at computer parts and I need a build for $600. I currently have an Antec Earthwatts power supply that came with a sonata designer 500 mid tower case. Could I get a decent gaming build for about $600?

.

Should be easy because you saved yourself $100 by having a good case and a good PSU. Feel free to play around with some config on your own as well:

$115 - CPU: Intel i3-530 2.93GHz
$130 - Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3 LGA P55 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0
$110 - Memory: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600
$55 - Hard drive: Samsung F3 500GB 7200RPM
$150 - Video card: Sapphire 5770 1GB
$30 - Optical drive: Asus DVD Burner

$590 - Total

Edited by SOSTrooper, 21 June 2010 - 03:02 AM.

Posted Image
| Intel Core i7 920 @ 3.8GHz | OCZ Gold 6GB (3x2GB) DDR3 1600 | Asus P6T Deluxe V2 | 2x Intel X18-M 80GB RAID0 |
| XFX HD 5870 | Corsair HX750W PSU | Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120 | Antec P180 v1.1 |


#870 Fatso2027

Fatso2027

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 03:32 AM

Thanks for the tips, and just wondering, how is this thing going to be for gaming? Am I going to be able to max out most things or is it somewhere in the middle?

I wouldn't be totally against shelling out a little more money for a better CPU or Graphics card if it will give me a good performance upgrade.