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The Ultimate 'Build-A-PC' Thread. Complete With Pricings & Recommendations (06/06/10)


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#91 HowStern

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Posted 22 June 2009 - 02:37 AM

Yes that motherboard would be a better choice for future upgrade purpose. You're right about the other motherboard that was in the sample build. You cannot run 4 pieces of DDR2 in 1066MHz, it will likely downgrade to 800MHz when you have 4 pieces running. In the real world testing and usage, you cannot tell the difference between memories running at 800MHz vs 1066MHz. You'll only see the difference in benchmark numbers. So having 800MHz is definitely not a set back for games. 800MHz is the standard for gaming now for DDR2.


Awesome, thanks for the help! I have one more question and would def love to hear what you think. This is what I am thinking of going with as a whole

http://secure.newegg...tNumber=8815514

I was wondering if the 500w power supply that comes with the case will be sufficient? Or if you see any other problems with the setup overall?
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#92 Arcturiang

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Posted 22 June 2009 - 06:43 PM

The OP should be updated with the Bing promotion. Make an account on Bing.com (Microsoft's Google), go to "cashback stores", "N's", "Newegg"...

When you click the link a page will come up saying that your cashback is now active... it won't show up in the cart, but about 10 minutes after you order you'll get an email saying you have cashback from bing...

Newegg's cashback rate constantly fluctuates between 2 and 3 percent; right now it's 2.5% off. A lot when you're getting gaming PCs.

#93 SOSTrooper

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 02:22 AM

Awesome, thanks for the help! I have one more question and would def love to hear what you think. This is what I am thinking of going with as a whole

http://secure.newegg...tNumber=8815514

I was wondering if the 500w power supply that comes with the case will be sufficient? Or if you see any other problems with the setup overall?



If I have to be worried about something, I'll probably more worried about the quality of the power supply rather than the wattage. A decent 500W will run the system fine, but a cheaply built power supply tends to go out more quickly/often than a high quality power supply. It is going to be a risk, most of the time a cheap power supply will last, even when powering a hungry system with a monster video card. So if you can fork out an extra $50, I would get a better power supply (see the original post for recommendations) and possibly another case (if you want). If money is tight, the case+500W in the wishlist is adequate.

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#94 sotc1988

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 03:54 AM

Well, finally ordered everything after putting it off a bit while my mac was in the shop just to make sure I could afford everything, and it all came out to ~ $839. That's with a monitor, keyboard, wifi receiver, I basically needed it all. Luckily I was able to save 50 bucks on the acer monitor by buying it off staples (which already had a discount from newegg) and with a $25 off coupon. After the rebates and live cashback I'll be able to bring that down to $746. It took a long time to think about and I definitely winced clicking 'submit order' but I want to thank everyone here for your help. I'm sure I'll be back and I hope it all goes smoothly when putting it together. Wish me luck!

#95 HowStern

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 03:43 PM

If I have to be worried about something, I'll probably more worried about the quality of the power supply rather than the wattage. A decent 500W will run the system fine, but a cheaply built power supply tends to go out more quickly/often than a high quality power supply. It is going to be a risk, most of the time a cheap power supply will last, even when powering a hungry system with a monster video card. So if you can fork out an extra $50, I would get a better power supply (see the original post for recommendations) and possibly another case (if you want). If money is tight, the case+500W in the wishlist is adequate.


Nice, yeah I think I will do that. Another thing I wasn't liking about that PSU was that a lot of reviewers were saying the SATA plugs were so close together they couldn't separate enough to power both a HDD and Optical drive.
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#96 RAMSTORIA

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 04:33 PM

Hey guys, my system is doing well and fine. However, according to SpeedFan, it's running really hot.

My CPU and cored are under great temps (~35C), but my system apparently is at ~120C (O_O). How can I cool this system off? Should I buy a new case fan? Or maybe buy a couple small fans to put around my case?


120C? that cant be possible. its either an error with the reading or its 120F.

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#97 Moxio

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 04:52 PM

Yeah that's what gets me too, but yeah it definitely says 120C. So weird.

#98 RAMSTORIA

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 06:00 PM

it has to be misreading the temp. if it was 120C your pc wouldnt be running. run your PC for a bit, play some games and then restart and check your BIOS. some BIOS have temp readings some dont.

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#99 darthbudge

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 06:04 PM

Yeah, I think 120C would just melt your PC. It must be a misreading, or it means 120F which is pretty hot, but within normal temps.


#100 Dwapook

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 01:07 AM

This is what I've chosen so far.. http://secure.newegg...Number=11050832

Does anyone have a motherboard suggestion? I'm kinda stuck deciding.. $200-250 is my price range but I'm willing to go to $300 if it's worth it.. Plan on adding a second video card eventually..

Also would like opinions on a good heatsink...

#101 RAMSTORIA

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 01:26 AM

sounds like youre going all out...

mobo...

http://www.newegg.co...N82E16813188046

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#102 Arcturiang

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 02:07 AM

10% off all Newegg desktop graphics cards, up to $20 discount with code: VGASALE10

#103 HowStern

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 04:47 AM

^Nice! Good find, man. Thanks :)
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#104 sotc1988

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 06:22 AM

Damn, I just ordered mine. Sure it's only fifteen or so bucks but every bit helps. Will newegg honor this promo for orders that already shipped? I know I'm stretching here and I'm 99% expecting a big no on this.

#105 Arcturiang

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 04:01 PM

On another note, I've been planning on getting the SAPPHIRE 100259-1GL Radeon , but reading reviews it looks like it breaks down really quickly. Anyone have a better option to fit in this computer?

#106 HowStern

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 04:50 PM

Check this one out, Arc, it's the one I just bought for my rig using the code you posted

http://www.newegg.co...N82E16814150394

It's the same thing but made by XFX and $10 cheaper with a double lifetime warranty(whatever that means lol).

Edit: actually despite being $10 cheaper the memory clock is much faster. It's 3600mhz compared to sapphires 800mhz :)
"Squeezing a guys jolly roger with your hey nani-nani means dollars" -Howard Stern to Jessica Hahn

#107 Arcturiang

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 08:08 PM

Damn, sold out. My next choice was going to be this nvidia EVGA: http://www.newegg.co...N82E16814130433

But I can't order it for a couple weeks anyway, so I'll see if it goes back in stock by then. Cheers.

#108 HowStern

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Posted 26 June 2009 - 02:19 PM

The xfx I posted is back in stock, arcturiang.
I got mine yesterday. Newegg ships so fast. I had just ordered it the day before and didn't opt for overnight shipping.
"Squeezing a guys jolly roger with your hey nani-nani means dollars" -Howard Stern to Jessica Hahn

#109 guyver2077

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Posted 26 June 2009 - 02:34 PM

I am sure ill start providingin some info and looking through this near the end of the year.

My current build is still fairly new and there really hasnt been any new games or software that want to make me upgrade yet.

Did usb 3.0 and sata 3 get finalized already?

1080i is for douchebags


#110 HowStern

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Posted 26 June 2009 - 08:41 PM

Noob question.

I'm using this motherboard
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16813128387
It has a SYSFAN1, SYSFAN2, CPUFAN, AND PWRFAN input.

The cpufan I know is for the cpu fan..lol.

The sysfan is 4 pin, stating it can sense and "reserve".

sysfan2 and pwrfan are 3 pin. stating they can sense but not reserve.

So, 1)What exactly does reserve mean?

2)Should I plug my 2 case fans into sysfan 1 and 2?

3)and what do I do with pwrfan? From what I've read I should just leave it alone?


4) Should I just power the front and rear case fans from the PSU?

Edit:Also I'm going to opt for the arctic cooler 64 freezer pro for my cpu because I am going to OC a little. It comes with pre-applied MX-1, so, I won't need to apply any thermal grease to the CPU right?

Edited by HowStern, 26 June 2009 - 09:35 PM.

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#111 sotc1988

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 12:16 AM

All the parts are here and the big day is tomorrow. How often should I "de-static" myself? I was going to do it at the beginning (by touching a grounded metal object) and figured that'd be good. I'm paranoid and in all the guides it is recommended so was just wondering. I figure just touching a washer would be fine.

#112 Moxio

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 12:30 AM

Just ground yourself.

#113 sotc1988

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 01:14 AM

Sorry but I don't know what that means. This really is my first time so even the lingo is new to me.

#114 HowStern

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 01:24 AM

sotc, I've never put together a computer before but when I'm changing parts like an hdd or ram I always stand on my tile kitchen floor barefoot and wear one of these.

http://www.digitalfo...fdate=6_25_2009

This will keep you grounded.

the barefoot part probably isn't necesary but I'm paranoid lol.
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#115 Moxio

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 02:00 AM

Yeah an anti-static wrist strap is recommended, but not terribly necessary. You just want to make sure static electricity doesn't fry your components as you touch them, such as after you walk across a carpeted floor or something. I just rub my hands against the metal case for a few seconds and that's good enough for me.

#116 SOSTrooper

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 05:40 AM

Noob question.

1)What exactly does reserve mean?



The forth pin you see on the motherboard fan connector (
Spoiler
) is for 'Pulse Width Modulation', or PWM for short. It is for the motherboard to control the speed of the fan by sending various voltages and is adjustable through software means (such as BIOS or desktop software). With the classic 3 pin fan connector, you cannot control the speed of case fan manually through software. You must use a PWM compatible 4-pin case fan or CPU fan in order to take full advantage of it.


2)Should I plug my 2 case fans into sysfan 1 and 2?


Yes you can plug any case fan into any connector on the motherboard. PWM is not very important or useful if you're only gonna plug a case fan onto it.


3)and what do I do with pwrfan? From what I've read I should just leave it alone?


You can still plug a case fan to it. Some power supply fans have an extra case fan connector for you to plug onto the motherboard so you can monitor the RPM. Many power supplies don't have this option, so that means you can pretty much plug any case fan onto the pwrfan as wel.


4) Should I just power the front and rear case fans from the PSU?


I would take advantage of the fan connectors on the motherboard instead of using molex (
Spoiler
) on the power supply. When you plug your case fans onto the motherboard, you get to see the RPMs each case fans spin at. With the molex connection you cannot monitor the RPM.


Edit:Also I'm going to opt for the arctic cooler 64 freezer pro for my cpu because I am going to OC a little. It comes with pre-applied MX-1, so, I won't need to apply any thermal grease to the CPU right?


Most likely you won't need to apply any other thermal paste if your CPU fan already comes with some sort of thermal pad.

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| XFX HD 5870 | Corsair HX750W PSU | Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120 | Antec P180 v1.1 |


#117 sotc1988

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 06:13 AM

Ok so four hours later of tinkering and it doesn't turn on. Awesome. Let me explain what I did and hopefully SOMEONE can figure this out. First want to say that I have a mouse plugged into one of the usb ports in the back and when I plugged everything in I get no response from the computer (no LED's light up, no fans, nothing) BUT the mouse's LED lights up for a second and vanishes. Clearly something is going through it just not what I need. I also have a three prong -> two prong power outlet converter so that could be affecting everything. (I am going to install a three prong-grounded outlet tomorrow.)

Ok, so installing the motherboard/cpu was easy enough and I made sure to rub a lot of metal surfaces before I got started and was not working on a carpet. Next up was the ram and that was also super easy and went without a hitch and I made double sure that out of the four slots available, I used the right ones.
Next up was the graphics card which took me a little while as to which slot to put it in (and a little difficulty making it slide in) but I felt like that also went pretty well and I screwed it in. Sliding the HDD and DVD drive in was also fairly easy (thanks to my case design). So now that everything is in, it's time to wire.
Spoiler

I am almost certain this is the part I borked and I really feel like the guide on the front page was very general and was made for someone who knew where everything went already. If anyone knows a really good guide specifically for wiring or just one that has a good section on that let me know. Or if you see a massive problem up there that I am oblivious to let me know. I'll re-wire everything tomorrow and if problems persist, write a more detailed portion on that.

#118 SOSTrooper

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 08:18 AM

What you can do is, you should test everything outside of the case first, before screwing anything into the case. You really only need to plug the CPU, RAM, CPU fan, video card, and power supply to the motherboard in order to test for power and screen (see pic here). Make sure all power cables are plugged into the video card and motherboard (there should be at least 2, one is the big 24 pin one, and the other should be either a 4 pin or 8 pin near the CPU). Then you might ask, how do you turn the system on? Very simple, I supposed you have already found the 2 pins for power switch on your motherboard. To emulate a power switch, all you need to do is get a flat head screw driver and short those 2 pins like this picture. It might look a bit risky and shady at first, but you'll soon find out that when the 2 pins are shorted, the system will turn on. Of course, make sure your power supply is switched to on position.

You can plug your keyboard into the USB port on the motherboard if you see a boot screen. Turn off the entire test setup by switching the power supply to off.

I can't be sure if the 3-prong to 2-prong power adapter is affecting your system. I don't have one handy to test it out myself, but I would really try to find a 3-prong outlet and test the computer on that.

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#119 HowStern

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 02:37 PM

Awesome thanks for helping me with those questions, SOS. Yeah I'll definitely use the MB's fan plugs for the case fans. I think the BIOS on the motherboard has support for an alarm to sound if a fan fails if I do it this way too. Thanks :)
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#120 sotc1988

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Posted 27 June 2009 - 04:47 PM

Question on case matching manual
Spoiler

Question on leftover cords
Spoiler

Response to sos
Spoiler

In between the inaccurate manual and hard to find cords, I figure I might just go to craigslist (someone with references though) and see if they can wire it for me. Hoping it won't be expensive since I put most of it together but we'll see. I don't want to give up like this, but I don't know anyone who could do this for me.

Edited by sotc1988, 27 June 2009 - 05:00 PM.