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The Ultimate 'Build-A-PC' Thread. Complete With Pricings & Recommendations (06/06/10)


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#2701 JBaz

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 05:49 PM

hey guys,

i recently bought a bunch of steam games from amazon but i couldn't get prototype 2 to run at over 7 fps. guess it's a good time to upgrade. i'm interested in just building a 'home theatre pc" over the winter as i only ever use it plugged into my tv anyway . also wondering if it's worth trying to sell my laptop.

here's what i have :

lenovo y56p
i7 q 740 @ 1.74ghz
4 gig ram
mobility radeon hd 5730

i would like to spend around 800 and use a case that would fit on my stand if possible. i've never built a PC before but I'll nevar buy a laptop that handcuffs me to it's graphics card again. any advice on getting started?

It depends on how much you bought the laptop for and what you are willing to let it go. It doesn't seem like those particular laptops sold very well on ebay right now, but the few I glanced over seemed to price it about 500-600 used. Since they started at 1,000, you'd be losing a bit of money for only having it for a year, but then again if you don't plan on using it anymore, best to cash out now and try you luck on craigslist first before ebay. Even then, this is the worst time to sell a used electronic device with black friday being a few days away along with the biggest selling season of the year.

First of all for your build, you need to measure out your stand to see what case will actually fit in your space; this is going to be vital for anyone to get you started. Plus if the location will hinder any airflow to the front, side, top or back. Some people still think that they could tuck a pc away in an enclosed cabinet to have it neatly out of the way, out of site then fret over the fact that it overheats and dies in the middle of playing a game.

$800 will easily bag you a nice microATX quad core setup with an entry/mid level gpu from either AMD or nvidia. You could go cheap with an ECS entry level motherboard for $30 or step it up for more features like that from Giabyte, MSI, Asus or Asrock(owned by asus). For a microATX i'd spend a bit and go with one that has atleast one or two USB3.0 for a HTPC; overclocking wouldn't be as big as an item so you don't need to expect to spend $200 for this; something in the range of $80-120. Although, if you have space for a full sized ATX board, your options open up a lot more and gets cheaper too with better expansion overhead, but again, depends on your space requirements for your case.

If you have a microcenter or Fry's nearby, I'd checkout the local sales paper and see whats on sale. Microcenter was selling the i5 2500k for $100, which is a steal. Add $100 for a mobo, $40 for 8gb of ram, say $100 for a gtx 650, $60 for a case; you pretty much still come out with about $400 left for a power supply (unless that comes with case), storage, and optical. Even room in the budget for a SSD and windows OS with spare for steam winter sales.

Hey guys. I am thinking about updating my PC - it's been a while (still running an overclocked Core2Duo 6420).
I've put a few comps together in the past, but am a a little out of the loop in terms of hardware atm.
I've done a little research myself and figure I really only need a mobo, ram, processor and graphics card.
I'd like to keep the price/value ratio pretty high.

So what do you think of this as the meat of the new PC:
CPU - Core i5-3570K
MoBo - MSI Z77A-GD65
Ram - 4 4GB DDR3-1600
GPU - Geforce GTX 650 Ti 2GB

I'd really like to keep the around $600. $500 would be great, but I doubt it'd be even close to possible.

Everything else I have is fine (case, PSU, HDs, DVD Drives) - with the exception of wanting a SSD and an upgrade to Win7 (running 32bit Vista :P) and te costs for those two aren't included in the budget.

Unless you plan on filling those x16 banks with a three way SLI setup, of which it doesn't since you budgeted for a gtx 650 mid range card, it would be a waste of money to spend $160 for that motherboard with features that you will probably never use or even actually need. Honestly, I'd save $60 and look at the asrock extreme 3 or 4 for $100-110. Every bit of what you need and not stuff you won't use. Even try to see if you can get a combo deal with a cpu with it. I know that at microcenter you can save an additional 30-50 bucks in store or see what combo deals shows up on newegg.

And unless you are fixated with having ivy bridge, you could try to pick up the last gen i5 2500k at microcenter for $100 in store if you can still. And older chip, but it still keeps up with its newer ivy bridge brothers as being value-centric cpu's.

As for ram, you don't need 16GB, but even if you went that route, its not that expensive to go 2x 8GB pair since most modern boards now support 32GB on 4 banks. Leaves you headroom for later down the road. You did just miss the newegg G.SKill 2x8GB 1866 ddr3 sale for $40 yesterday, but you shouldn't have a big issue trying to find a similar deal in the coming week.

Here's just an idea for what you can get right now. No sale prices.
PCPartPicker part list /

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($61.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: PNY GeForce GTX 660 2GB Video Card ($219.99 @ Dell)
Total: $601.96
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-11-20 11:50 EST-0500)

With the savings off the motherboard, I just put it towards the videocard, which bumps you to the 660, but honestly for your sake, I'd probably save a few and stick with the 650 or even jump the boat and look at mid range AMD cards. I'd also check around black friday sales and find better prices for everything. I'm certain the i5 3570k would hit $199 (less with combos I bet), asrock mobo maybe $10 cheaper (or better yet, a comparable mobo for way cheaper; EVGA did have that z68 ftw gaming motherboard for $60AR so its not far fetched that something similar for z77 boards be on sale too), snag a 2x4GB 1600 ram set for $20 or find the 2x8GB 1600 on sale for $40 and definitely wait for sales on the video card. You could try to see if any vendors have the older 500 series gpu's for uber cheap. I bet NCIX would have something.

Sorry for posting this here but I figure that this would be the best place to ask. I have zero knowledge about building a computer and would rather not try something like that as I have a feeling I would break it. However I did see this computer on sale at the moment: http://www.newegg.co..._-83227443-L08D and I am curious if this is even worth the money. It would probably be used for MMOs and maybe some more recent games if possible. I asked a friend of mine and he said that it looked like it could run most games on high, but I wanted a second opinion if possible before I dropped that kind of money. If there is somewhere else I should ask this let me know, thanks.

Honestly, that really isn't a good deal for what you get. Here's the same setup if bought separately right now, no sales or anything.

PCPartPicker part list /

CPU: Intel Core i5-3350P 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor ($179.39 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: ASRock H61M-DGS Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($44.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Mushkin Silverline 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory ($32.66 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Seagate Momentus XT 500GB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: PNY GeForce GTX 650 1GB Video Card ($99.99 @ Dell)
Case: Azza Orion 202 EVO ATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Cooler Master Elite Power 460W ATX12V Power Supply ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($17.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) ($79.99 @ CompUSA)
Total: $559.98
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-11-20 12:07 EST-0500)

And that's with a name brand 460w power supply that will work; shit you could try to find an antec or corsair 400w PSU for $20ish over than that POS "Soly Tech" 400w crap they threw in that combo "deal". Even then, the parts list doesn't make a whole lot of sense with pairing a decent i5 cpu with a $50 mobo that has less features than the $15-30 ECS entry level board with the same H61 chipset... And you can find 1600 cas9 ddr3 for the same price as 1333 now days so it makes almost no difference to settle with 1333 (even though we are only talking about a few % in performance). POS case with a no thrills deal and limited expansion microATX board; plus $40 more of what we can get yourself? no thanks.

Here's an idea:
PCPartPicker part list /

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-G41 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($129.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: PNY GeForce GTX 650 1GB Video Card ($99.99 @ Dell)
Case: Thermaltake VL80001W2Z ATX Mid Tower Case ($34.68 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Cooler Master Elite Power 460W ATX12V Power Supply ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($17.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) ($79.99 @ CompUSA)
Total: $687.60
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-11-20 12:25 EST-0500)

For just $100 more, you get a much more rounded system; most of that cost is thanks to the 3TB drive, better CPU and motherboard. Yes yes, still all housed in a shitty $30 case with an entry level $20 PSU. I'd probably say invest a bit more on a better power supply and cooling if you plan on taking advantage of the i5 3570k overclocking abilities.

Honestly, if I was doing this as an MMO PC, I'd probably skimp out on the cpu and go with an entry level i3 ivy bridge for $100 less like the i3 3220 dual core with HT. Most games are still more centered around GPU bottlenecks since sandy bridge anyhow.

I got a cheap $60 G630 pentium dual core paired with a gtx 570, a $15 ECS microATX board, $18 Corsair 420w PSU and some leftover 2x2gb g.skill 1600 cas7 ram that's worth maybe $20; the system is less than half the cost of one 570 when I built it. It runs pretty much every game out there, just as well as my more stout i7 570 SLI rig. Its my more portable lan rig when I don't want to lug around my 50lb monster.

Just shows you that you don't need quad core for current gaming, but it does leave you more "future proof". i5 K's are still the best value all around though so if you can afford it, budget it; just do your diligence and find sales. Best time to shop around is now.
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#2702 - Glenn -

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 06:07 PM

Thanks a lot JBaz. You've given me a bunch of things to think about.
I appreciate the advice :)

Edit: I noticed you recommended Win8 to koga88 - and I am seeing this more and more places. Is Win8 not as bad as previously thought?

Edited by glennfrank, 20 November 2012 - 06:25 PM.


#2703 j-cart

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 06:22 PM

Honestly, if I was doing this as an MMO PC, I'd probably skimp out on the cpu and go with an entry level i3 ivy bridge for $100 less like the i3 3220 dual core with HT. Most games are still more centered around GPU bottlenecks since sandy bridge anyhow.



Loved your post, only thing I want to insert here is that SWTOR (see: MMO) is heavily dependent on CPU for it to run smooth. While an i3 ivy bridge is better than most quad-core AMDs, I would always suggest to be on the i5 train or higher.

JBaz, making my workday even more boring by answering everyone questions :D

#2704 JBaz

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 06:49 PM

^^also, if you are using an older power supply from the core2duo era, it might be time to update. What exactly do you have now? And do you plan on overclocking the i5 as well? Best cpu air cooler to date is still the coolermaster 212+ or EVO, which can be found for $15 and 25 on sale or less.

As for SSD's, I'd probably take a gander of what will be on sale for black friday or cyber monday. Shouldn't be hard to find the latest gen SataIII drive for $60-80 for 120gigs. Personally, I just have a 120GB sataII ssd still that's not even my MBR boot drive. I just use to store a few games, programs and mostly a scratch disk for video editing. I never turn off my main rig so boot times is useless for me as a selling feature. If I do need to restart, I get off my chair, take a walking circuit around my house and by the time I grab a cool beer from the fridge downstairs (not the mini fridge next to my computer because that's way too easy) the PC should be back up and I get a mini workout... lol

#2705 - Glenn -

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 07:07 PM

I am running a Rosewill RP550V2-D-SL 550W SLI Ready-ATX 12V
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16817182030

I am not sure about overclocking - I probably wouldn't bother atm, but would when I wanted to squeeze a little more life out of it before updating. I build this in May '07 and I actually just started overclocking this one in February.

#2706 JBaz

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 07:19 PM

Well with the unlocked K chips, its easy as bumping up the multiplier instead of the more unstable front side bus. You could always do a light bump to 4-4.2Ghz on air just to make sure your 12v rails on the power supply don't go all iffy on you with the old rosewill's. I had that same psu, actually 3 and 2 of them burt out within 6 months. I know the new rosewill's are much much better, but its hard for me to even take newegg's brand serious over other quality brands that you can get for the same or cheaper price on sale.

Honestly, just like you thought, I'd float with what you have right now for a while or until you find a really good deal on a modular name brand power supply. What you have is still considered overkill in wattage for just a 77w cpu and a 110w gpu; as long as you got a good motherboard with clean phase power and the 12 and 5v rails from the psu doesn't deviate that much by .3v, you should be good for overclocking.

#2707 Prota

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 09:47 PM

Lots of awesome info and parts to look through. Part of the reason for a new pc is to try out Guild Wars 2, so I'll definitely review all your points as I shop. That and my laptop can't really play much of anything.

The i5 2500k seems to be back in stock at some stores, but sadly the price has gone up to $159.99. It's still a sale, but I think it might be better to wait for better sales this week. I don't know much about overclocking, so I figured I wouldn't really use it. If I don't, is it still recommended to get a heatsink for the CPU?

#2708 j-cart

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 09:52 PM

Lots of awesome info and parts to look through. Part of the reason for a new pc is to try out Guild Wars 2, so I'll definitely review all your points as I shop. That and my laptop can't really play much of anything.

The i5 2500k seems to be back in stock at some stores, but sadly the price has gone up to $159.99. It's still a sale, but I think it might be better to wait for better sales this week. I don't know much about overclocking, so I figured I wouldn't really use it. If I don't, is it still recommended to get a heatsink for the CPU?


Yes, for $25 bucks, it is better to have than to not have.

#2709 Prota

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 09:57 PM

Yes, for $25 bucks, it is better to have than to not have.


Better safe than sorry then.

#2710 JBaz

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 10:06 PM

I don't know much about overclocking, so I figured I wouldn't really use it. If I don't, is it still recommended to get a heatsink for the CPU?

You honestly can not go wrong with spending $15 bucks for the Cooler Master 212+ when they go on sale regularly. I've had three of them in the past and can't say anything bad about them for the price. The replacement for the 212+ is the newer EVO, which is about a year old now, but still a much improved heatsink, although its MSRP of $35 is a bit hard to swallow given it barely out performs the 212+ stock for stock, but they can easily be found for 25 on sale.

The only thing that outperforms the 212+/EVO value was the older corsair A50/A70 heatsinks (that look exactly like the CM's) when they went on sale for $5/$12 each. I was lucky to pick up the A70 and threw it in my old old secondary gaming rig last year.


Even if you don't overclock, it will significantly reduce your core temps on full load, there in theory, will extend the operation of your cpu, but really its also quieter than the stock intel heatsinks. Although, intel's heatsinks aren't that bad anymore compared to the crap they were pumping out years ago, but its mostly due to the lower tdp wattage of the cpu's compared to their older flagship processors (130 vs 77).

#2711 elessar123

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 11:24 PM

The 212s don't fit with a side fan on an Antec 900, btw. I ordered a side fan, installed it. Then I ordered a 212 Plus cause I couldn't stand the noise my 3570k was putting out. Temperature didn't drop more than a couple degrees, but it's now silent.

Edit: You can upgrade to a 212 far into the future, so I personally wouldn't worry about it now.

#2712 - Glenn -

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 11:40 PM

I actually made an error on the Power Supply - that's the one I had bought originally and then gave to my GF when I saw how bright the lights were (I am not a fan of glowing lights/fans in a PC).

I actually have an Antec TruePowerTrio TP3-650 watt.
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16817371001

I am assuming the same advice stands though? I should be ok? :)

#2713 JBaz

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 12:34 AM

I actually made an error on the Power Supply - that's the one I had bought originally and then gave to my GF when I saw how bright the lights were (I am not a fan of glowing lights/fans in a PC).

I actually have an Antec TruePowerTrio TP3-650 watt.
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16817371001

I am assuming the same advice stands though? I should be ok? :)

It's an older Antec, but it should have no problems with today's stuff.

It's actually built by seasonic (one of the best PSU makers) with quality parts using decent mid range OST and Hitachi caps. It didn't garner much respect when launched since it was competing as a value-centric quality no-frills PSU for a decent price. It was mostly targeted as a workstation PSU that could be used for gaming rigs; similar to the NEO lines. I think one of the best things about it is the low voltage deviation on the rails, which was pretty rare 5-10 years ago for consumer level products.

The only downside during that era of PSU's was the whole gimmicky tag lines of "multi-railed" or "SLI ready" when manufacturers were splitting the 12v line into separate circuits within the unit. They mostly did this to increase efficiency, lower noise in the lines (you want clean power, not just constant) as well as to reduce EMI from larger and more costly components from a more stout single railed PSU. It just turned out as a marketing feature to boost the price on these "dedicated gpu power supply units" when in fact it was cost savings.

You "only" have three 19 amp rails that will supply about 228w each; you will just have to be careful of which rails are powering what. Specially if you do get a more powerful mid range/high end graphics card that chews through more power. When this was built, the high end 8800 GTX would only use 145w each; now day's, that's mid-range card territory.

This was also when the 80 plus standards were just coming onto the field, so efficiency was gaining traction as a consumer feature that customers would pay more for. Although, yours would barely hit the normal 80 plus standard.


If you want to read more about what you got, jonnyguru did an indepth review back in 2006.

#2714 - Glenn -

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 01:01 AM

Wow dude, you are ridiculously knowledgeable about this stuff! :)
I appreciate your time & advice. I have more things to consider and am glad I asked here instead of just buying things.

#2715 JBaz

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 01:28 AM

Yeah... I'm an overly educated, tech savvy Asian who only works 1 day a month with the capacity to pretty much remember anything. I spend most of my days reading, researching and reviewing anything from trade embargo's of the 16th century to which dye compounds in processed foods will increase your risk of health problems.

When I learn stuff, I'm a bit OCD and need to learn anything and everything, down to the core essentials. It also helps that I still have access to all of the databases from my university so I do take advantage of source materials instead of wikipedia nonsense.

Plus, I play like 80 hours a week worth of video games while reading some scientific paper or journal. A quick BF3 session between sections keeps reading "light". Plus I do push-ups for every death... you really learn to make better in game decisions when a physical detriment is tied in.

#2716 Roll

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 03:47 AM

Hey everyone!
I'm not sure if I'm in the right thread, but if not, feel free to point me in the right direction. Recently I found out that I have what appears to be a dying hard drive in my laptop (an Inspiron N5110), so I'm looking to buy a new one. The hard drive is a Seagate ST9640423AS and from looking online I managed to figure out that it's apparently 2.75in x 3.95in x 0.37 in. I was looking and I found this http://www.newegg.co...pk=st95005620as

Would this suffice? Are there any other hard drives I could be looking at (for a cheap price since it's nearing Black Friday) instead?

Thanks, and feel free to ask if you need more info (I'm not very computer-savvy :P).

#2717 JBaz

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 04:12 AM

Hey everyone!
I'm not sure if I'm in the right thread, but if not, feel free to point me in the right direction. Recently I found out that I have what appears to be a dying hard drive in my laptop (an Inspiron N5110), so I'm looking to buy a new one. The hard drive is a Seagate ST9640423AS and from looking online I managed to figure out that it's apparently 2.75in x 3.95in x 0.37 in. I was looking and I found this http://www.newegg.co...pk=st95005620as

Would this suffice? Are there any other hard drives I could be looking at (for a cheap price since it's nearing Black Friday) instead?

Thanks, and feel free to ask if you need more info (I'm not very computer-savvy :P).

If you want a nice drive with storage and a small SSD boost, then the Momentus XT are really nice, specially for that price.

If storage space isn't a huge factor in your laptop and you'd be satisfied with 120-250GB then I'd check out the number of SSD offerings for black friday. Newegg will have the OCZ Vertex 3 sataIII 120GB SSD for $50. If you are iffy about OCZ SSD track record and "horror stories" (which in my experience is so over blown that 9/10 people who bitch about it, never actually owned the product), then look at the Corsair M4, Samsung 830 and tons of other offerings for not much more money; expect 50-80 for a 120gb sized SSD.

I really haven't sift through the BF ad's for SSD's specifically since I already own a few and not in the market for them until they get way way cheaper for "mass" storage.

#2718 Roll

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 04:40 AM

If you want a nice drive with storage and a small SSD boost, then the Momentus XT are really nice, specially for that price.

If storage space isn't a huge factor in your laptop and you'd be satisfied with 120-250GB then I'd check out the number of SSD offerings for black friday. Newegg will have the OCZ Vertex 3 sataIII 120GB SSD for $50. If you are iffy about OCZ SSD track record and "horror stories" (which in my experience is so over blown that 9/10 people who bitch about it, never actually owned the product), then look at the Corsair M4, Samsung 830 and tons of other offerings for not much more money; expect 50-80 for a 120gb sized SSD.

I really haven't sift through the BF ad's for SSD's specifically since I already own a few and not in the market for them until they get way way cheaper for "mass" storage.


Thanks for the quick reply!
I'm not sure if 120GB is enough for me, so I think I'm going to have to pass on that one, but I might consider since it looks pretty good anyways. :-P

What places should I be on the look out for the hard drive deals this Black Friday? Also, typically, is trying to physically fit the hard drive inside the laptop going to be much of a problem and should I keep that as a main priority when looking for more hard drives?

#2719 JBaz

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 05:41 AM

What places should I be on the look out for the hard drive deals this Black Friday? Also, typically, is trying to physically fit the hard drive inside the laptop going to be much of a problem and should I keep that as a main priority when looking for more hard drives?

Just go to Slickdeals.net and hit their forums for the Black Friday section; they have a master list of all the stores BF ad's to look/gawk at. Honestly, I'd probably stick to the usual places like amazon, newegg, ncix, fry's, microcenter, compusa/tiger direct and such. I wouldn't even bother going to a B&M store on friday and just wait for sales on the following cyber monday. Fighting the crowd is soooo 2007.

And as for your hard drive replacement in your Dell... holy balls... I haven't worked on the later dell models, but apparently they mounted the hard drive to the freaking logic board, which is surrounded by the entire chassis so like the old Apple macbook pro's, you literally have to take the entire laptop apart to gain access to something simple like the hard drive.

Every Dell laptop I've own for the past 15+ years have been in a drive cage that requires one or two screws to remove the drive, then 4 screws to take the drive out of the cage... like a normal fucking laptop...
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#2720 - Glenn -

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 05:48 AM

LOL, I wish I had those hours! :)
I am leaning toward the ASRock Z77 Extreme4 LGA 1155 mobo you mentioned. I like the additional SATA ports, among other things. Thanks for the suggestion!
I also notice that the RAM you linked actually has a combo deal with the processor- $11 savings..
I will wait till black Friday/Monday before pulling the trigger on this build.
I am bouncing back and forth between the 650ti and the 660 now, but I will figure it out.
Hopefully there are some good deals to be had to help with the decisions...

Oh! I am wondering if you saw my question about Win8? The main thing I would miss in 8, i think, is the start button - luckily I am an object desktop subscriber so I have access to Start8 immediately. So, I guess that isn't a real issue. Would you recommend Win 8 over Win 7 at this point? Or is it to early to tell? I am reading reviews and can't really tell if they are 'bandwagon' reviews or not.

Edited by glennfrank, 21 November 2012 - 06:13 AM.


#2721 JBaz

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 08:26 AM

Well, I count my actual work as a day's worth of shooting without post processing; so I'm not being entirely honestly in how much I actually do work since the customer thinks that I shoot something and it magically gets cut by some north pole elves... Some projects could be as few as 20 hours of editing, but it could easily bloat to 150 hours because I got 120GB of HD material to sit through. But its kinda of nice to tell people that I only work 1 day a month and get paid 8 grand to do it in a very flexible and leisurely way. lol

My next pc project is to create a massive storage array server with at least 20-30TB, maybe more; depends on how much I can allocate to fund it. My current 8TB array is almost full so I need to plan the build very soon. The damn floods in Thailand pushed my build off by a year.


As for Win8, I actually don't care for it too much personally. I have it running on my HTPC using the pre-build cause I'm a cheap bastard and didn't want to spend $100 for a win7 licence for what is effectively a $120 PC with a $300 gpu... lol. Win8 is only attractive to me because of the licence costs only $80, but its hard to steer me away from my Win7 gaming rig. I'll end up put some sort of linux distro on the HTPC while I replace the gpu with a cheapo $10 6450 I got a while back once win8 comes out and they shut down the free license.

I guess I can suffer again with triple SLI... Its nice and useful as a space heater during the winter months.


Honestly, you can't go wrong with just trying out the pre-build win8. It's free and if you buy your parts during BF/CM sales, you'll have a month or so till win8 is actually launched I believe. Also to note, I'm sure MS will offer some sort of student incentive for their OS. They were running win7 pro for $35 like two years ago that I picked up for a spare computer.

#2722 - Glenn -

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 03:39 PM

The more I read about Win8 the more I am steering away from it again. I am not liking the move towards the "walled garden" system(as everyone seems fond of calling it). I just watched a vlogger I like talking about it and she pretty much turned me off to the whole thing. For one, I really don't want Win8 constantly asking me to link all of my accounts to my MS account.
Maybe I will give the pre-build a shot, but at this point I guess I am willing to shell out the $100 for Win7 license instead.
Thanks again.

#2723 JBaz

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 04:15 PM

yeah, its one of those things that people are going to love or really hate.

#2724 JBaz

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Posted 21 November 2012 - 10:26 PM

One of the fastest consumer level, mechanical hard drive is on sale. Seagate Barracuda 3TB for $90 each @ newegg. Lots of other good sales are popping up so keep a keen eye to those sales ticker on slickdeals.net.

#2725 chibilaharl

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Posted 22 November 2012 - 02:47 AM

Curious of everyones thoughts. AMD or Intel I-series for CPU in a budget gaming rig (600$) I ask because i was going to get a mobo for intel, but amazons got a great deal on an AMD MOBO thatlooks tempting. Should I stick with an intel MOBO, or is it worth switching to AMD for this deal?

#2726 chibilaharl

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Posted 22 November 2012 - 02:48 AM

And I linked to the wrong mobo. This is it.


#2727 JBaz

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Posted 22 November 2012 - 05:13 AM

honestly, I'd still keep with an intel i3 entry level ivy bridge cpu; while the amd 970g chipset mobo is a decent deal, it still wouldn't be enough for me to switch over if I was doing a budget gaming rig as yourself.

I mean the AMD chips are still value oriented, but are much more suited for a better overall PC with its more stout cheap x4 or the entry level FX cpu's; but for gaming, even the cheapo Pentium cpu's still beat the FX chips for half the price. Honestly, I would only go with an AMD cheap build if you got a $50 or less motherboard like an 800 or 700 series chipset, which is easy to find. If you are going to save money on the cpu, might as well cheap out on the mobo and spend more money on a better gpu; considering you could easily save about 40-80 over a similar i3 build. That right there could easily upgrade to the next gpu tier.

#2728 Prota

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Posted 23 November 2012 - 03:34 AM

Hey all, microcenter has the an i5 3570k on sale for $169.99.

http://www.microcent..._1155_Processor

Would that be a bit much in terms of power for the motherboard I purchased a couple of days ago?

http://www.newegg.co...N82E16813188098

#2729 Trace17

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Posted 23 November 2012 - 06:25 AM

Hey guys, so I'm looking into building a pc and want some opinions and feedback. I think this is the best thread for this, if not everybody throw rocks at me.;)

I'm looking to get a decent PC that can handle most games with ease but won't break the bank (aren't we all lol?). Want to keep it under four digits without large sacrifices. I've replaced plenty of PC parts before but never built one up myself, so looking for parts is new territory for me. After browsing newegg, amazon, etc. here's a rough shopping list I've come up with:

ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
ASUS ENGTX560 DCII OC/2DI/1GD5 GeForce GTX 560 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video
Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I53570K
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B
Western Digital WD Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive
ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
Antec VP-450 450W ATX 12V v2.3 Power Supply

I think that's it. Already have nice monitor and mouse, will look at keyboards and cases later I guess. But if anyone has some opinions on these parts or better ones or anything I'm missing I'd love to hear it. Thanks!

#2730 The Crotch

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Posted 23 November 2012 - 06:38 AM

Can't say much without the prices you're paying on those. Try to get a PSU with at least an 80+ bronze rating. If you're getting a processor with a "k" on the end, you should throw in the little extra for a heatsink (or you could save a couple bucks and get a CPU that's not meant for overclocking). You're covered on the OS front, I assume?

Hey all, microcenter has the an i5 3570k on sale for $169.99.

http://www.microcent..._1155_Processor

Would that be a bit much in terms of power for the motherboard I purchased a couple of days ago?

http://www.newegg.co...N82E16813188098

That motherboard claims Sandy Bridge compatability only. That processor is Ivy Bridge. You'd want the Sandy Bridge equivalent of the 3570k, the 2500k.

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