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The Ultimate 'Build-A-PC' Thread. Complete With Pricings & Recommendations (06/06/10)


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#2911 JBaz

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Posted 17 December 2012 - 10:56 PM

1. ATX 12v v2.3 is a very minor update to the v2.2. Standard states that it needs at least 80% efficiency, follow Energy Star 4.0 guidelines, and supports better reduced load requirements from lesser wattage cpu's on boot. v2.2 and v2.3 are interchangeable in any motherboard that accepts a 24 pin ATX connector. You only have 3.3v, 5v, and 12v lines (with accompanying negatives); as long as they give a +/- 5-10% tolerance, little noise on the lines and good Ripple, power is power.

2. The CS from evga could be right, the PSU might be the cause. The C code with them is like a general error code that could mean 100 things have gone wrong. It's hard to troubleshoot over the internet, especially since you don't have access to spare components. If you can get access to another PSU, it's worth a shot, otherwise contact newegg and get an RMA for a replacement 430 PSU. I did have one 430 PSU that shipped DOA from newegg.

There should be no reason why your corsair 430w v2 won't boot up if the PSU isn't at fault. Outputs the same voltage and tolerances as any good higher wattage power supply. I've used the same PSU on a variety of systems including a number of z68 boards; not your particular board, but it would be foolish for EVGA to have crazy requirements/tolerances and limit PSU choices, if they did, it should have been clearly indicated on their product page. These boards only use about 6-10w.

3. EPS12v standard is nothing more than an 8 pin secondary connector for the CPU instead of 4 pin connector that most boards use. Tends to be used on SMP or high powered cpu's like server class stuff or enthusiast boards. It's meant as supplementary power, specially when you overclock. The Corsair 430 v2, like many other ATX PSU, offer 4+4 split connector to support both 4 and 8 pin boards. It supports EPS12v.

4. Since we are talking about the extra 12v connectors... you do have the 4+4 pin connected to the motherboard right? Its a simple over sight and never mentioned it before since most quick start guides will tell you to do this. It can mimic issues of a failed PSU boot.

5. Don't pay attention to people on newegg. Most reviews are from idiots and spread ignorance about their problem.
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#2912 Prota

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 12:52 AM

Yeah, I have the 4+4 pin plugged into the motherboard. The board has two 12v connectors I believe and I've tried plugging it into both. I get the same results regardless.

Edited by Prota, 18 December 2012 - 03:02 AM.


#2913 Prota

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 03:40 AM

I just found out that my one of my friends has a spare power supply in an old pc. It's a Aspire ATX-AS500W, can't tell if it's 2.2 or not. http://www.newegg.co...N82E16817148005

Should I try to borrow it and give it a try?

#2914 Trace17

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 05:20 AM

Got my psu and case today. After 4 hours, looks like everything is up and running. Just seeing the BIOS was a nice relief. I never got any POST beep though, but don't have any internal speakers that I am aware of. Is that why?

#2915 JBaz

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 06:57 PM

I just found out that my one of my friends has a spare power supply in an old pc. It's a Aspire ATX-AS500W, can't tell if it's 2.2 or not. http://www.newegg.co...N82E16817148005

Should I try to borrow it and give it a try?

Aspire is the name of a desktop line from Acer. You mean Apevia. The unit is from 2003 and is ATX v1.2. The only major difference between the older 1.x to the 2.x ATX power supplies is that the 24 pin is actually 20+4 (to support older motherboards), 1.x may have -5v rail (for ISA bus), 2.x have stricter power efficiency guidelines and more amps on the 12v rails.

Do note that you only have one 4 pin 12v (P4) connector instead of the 8 pin (4+4) EPS12v connector, which shouldn't be an issue for the motherboard since the extra 4 pins is really optional if you plan on drawing more power for the cpu. One 4 pin should fit on the left side of the first (left) EPS12v connector, closest to the I/O ports.

Other then that, 1.x has the same pinout and provides the same voltages. The downside is that the Apevia PSU were crap back then and it looks like the tolerances of its 12v rails is 10% instead of 5%; may not seem like much, but that kind of deviation may become problematic when you start putting some heavy load to the PSU.

It should be fine on cold boots since I wouldn't believe it would dip below 11.40v or go above 12.6v, but I wouldn't be surprised if it went past 5% tolerances on higher loads. Not an issue for older systems, but more modern boards and chips are a little more sensitive, reason why v2.x was made to standardized tolerances and power efficiencies.

Got my psu and case today. After 4 hours, looks like everything is up and running. Just seeing the BIOS was a nice relief. I never got any POST beep though, but don't have any internal speakers that I am aware of. Is that why?

Many boards now days tend to have the mono speaker for the POST beeps off the board, as an attachable plug. You really only need it to diagnose if something goes wrong.
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#2916 chibilaharl

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 07:01 PM

Just would like to report on a successful first build! Thanks to the cags here and especially Jbaz for the help.

#2917 theycallmeryan

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 07:20 PM

Alright, been researching and asking opinions over on reddit in addition to JBaz's tips here. Here's what I've come up with so far, let me know what else should be changed please, thanks!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($129.98 @ Outlet PC)
Memory: Patriot Intel Extreme Master, Limited Ed 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($31.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($109.00 @ B&H)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($279.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 922 ATX Mid Tower Case ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair Professional 650W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHOS104-06 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Drive ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus VS247H-P 23.6" Monitor ($169.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ Outlet PC)
Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow Ultimate Wired Gaming Keyboard ($75.99 @ B&H)
Mouse: Logitech Performance Wireless Laser Mouse ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Other: Rosewill RNX-N150PCe ($9.99)
Total: $1461.84
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-12-18 14:16 EST-0500)

#2918 JBaz

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 07:56 PM

If you have not bought the HAF 922 yet (like I suggested), you need to by tomorrow when the coupon code ends. $70 for a nice case is a slickdeal.

I'd also shop around for the SSD, PSU and monitor still. Since the Samsung 840 came on the scene, the 830 has jumped it's price up a bit since the 830 is actually a better SSD than the entry level 840 (840 Pro is in line with the 830). I'd still find whatever SSD sale in the $70-80 price range in the next week, since anything made in the last year is still insanely fast for the normal consumer.

As for Power supply, I'd probably look at the competition over the Corsair Pro's for that price if you want good quality and modular. OCZ ZT 650w 80+ Bronze is $71, Antec HCG 620w 80+ Bronze is $80 and the XFX ProSeries 750w 80+ Silver is $85. And since we are stuffing all of these parts in a large HAF 922 case with no window, you could save a few bones here again and go with a non-modular power supply; easily cut $20-30 for something that you need, not want.

I have the OCZ Z series 850w 80+ Gold that I got for $80 shipped last year, easily powers my i7 with three 570's with no issue and is a better quality unit than anything I listed above. It's actually under rated as it can hit 940w stable and still be Gold efficient; reason why it got a lot of awards when it came out, but its MSRP on launch was terribly expensive. Plus my own torture test of running folding @ home on the cpu and three gpu's constantly for 5 months, 24/7 last winter (to provide heat for my house... and do science at the same time!) has left a lasting impression that it is in fact a kickass product. My system pulls about 960w from the wall on full load which is about 845w at 88% efficiency.

#2919 Trace17

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 08:18 PM

Many boards now days tend to have the mono speaker for the POST beeps off the board, as an attachable plug. You really only need it to diagnose if something goes wrong.


Well I have the asrock z77 extreme 3 and didn't see any mono plug or anything. Like you said, not a huge deal unless I need it to diagnose, but found it odd. Was able to install win7 last night, update some drivers, win updates before calling it a night. Can't wait to dig into some new games. Thanks for the help, to you and the others here. :applause:

#2920 theycallmeryan

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 08:34 PM

If you have not bought the HAF 922 yet (like I suggested), you need to by tomorrow when the coupon code ends. $70 for a nice case is a slickdeal.

I'd also shop around for the SSD, PSU and monitor still. Since the Samsung 840 came on the scene, the 830 has jumped it's price up a bit since the 830 is actually a better SSD than the entry level 840 (840 Pro is in line with the 830). I'd still find whatever SSD sale in the $70-80 price range in the next week, since anything made in the last year is still insanely fast for the normal consumer.

As for Power supply, I'd probably look at the competition over the Corsair Pro's for that price if you want good quality and modular. OCZ ZT 650w 80+ Bronze is $71, Antec HCG 620w 80+ Bronze is $80 and the XFX ProSeries 750w 80+ Silver is $85. And since we are stuffing all of these parts in a large HAF 922 case with no window, you could save a few bones here again and go with a non-modular power supply; easily cut $20-30 for something that you need, not want.

I have the OCZ Z series 850w 80+ Gold that I got for $80 shipped last year, easily powers my i7 with three 570's with no issue and is a better quality unit than anything I listed above. It's actually under rated as it can hit 940w stable and still be Gold efficient; reason why it got a lot of awards when it came out, but its MSRP on launch was terribly expensive. Plus my own torture test of running folding @ home on the cpu and three gpu's constantly for 5 months, 24/7 last winter (to provide heat for my house... and do science at the same time!) has left a lasting impression that it is in fact a kickass product. My system pulls about 960w from the wall on full load which is about 845w at 88% efficiency.


Alright, I decided to go with the the OCZ 650w PSU. And the reason I keep posting here is because I want to get all my parts at once, which means buying the case by tomorrow. How much would I "lose out on" realistically if I bought all the parts now as opposed to waiting for deals in the next week or so?

#2921 JBaz

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Posted 18 December 2012 - 08:39 PM

Well I have the asrock z77 extreme 3 and didn't see any mono plug or anything. Like you said, not a huge deal unless I need it to diagnose, but found it odd. Was able to install win7 last night, update some drivers, win updates before calling it a night. Can't wait to dig into some new games. Thanks for the help, to you and the others here. :applause:

Its the 4 pin connector labeled "Speaker" in the lower right corner of motherboard, right behind the SATA ports. Some boards don't include it anymore, but the connector is there.

Alright, I decided to go with the the OCZ 650w PSU. And the reason I keep posting here is because I want to get all my parts at once, which means buying the case by tomorrow. How much would I "lose out on" realistically if I bought all the parts now as opposed to waiting for deals in the next week or so?

You can save around $100+ if you shop smartly and buy your parts from various retailers. It's really hard to say since sales are sales and hard to predict, but since its Christmas season, sales should be widely abundant over the next two-three weeks. You really can't go wrong with what you selected, but you can easily save $30-40 for an SSD deal and easy to add that to your system after you get everything else right now. If you need/want the system right now, I'd say go for it, minus the SSD.

And do you actually live near a microcenter?

#2922 theycallmeryan

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Posted 19 December 2012 - 02:50 AM

You can save around $100+ if you shop smartly and buy your parts from various retailers. It's really hard to say since sales are sales and hard to predict, but since its Christmas season, sales should be widely abundant over the next two-three weeks. You really can't go wrong with what you selected, but you can easily save $30-40 for an SSD deal and easy to add that to your system after you get everything else right now. If you need/want the system right now, I'd say go for it, minus the SSD.

And do you actually live near a microcenter?


Nope, I don't live near a Microcenter. What I may do is just buy the case as you suggested and wait on the rest of the parts for a week or so. But, then again, one of my biggest factor in buying all the parts now is to have it available when I'm done with exams and can play with it all through the holidays.

#2923 Trace17

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Posted 19 December 2012 - 11:44 PM

Got another dumb question. My new build was averaging 7-9 seconds boot time to login screen, but today I put in my 2TB storage drive and boot time has doubled. On the starting windows screen with the colors, with just the ssd, it would go to login screen before even finishing that animation. Now it sits on it for 12-15 seconds. Is this normal? Is the OS just checking files on the drive or something? I took the 2tb out of boot sequence altogether too. Just curious if there is anything I can do to get that boot time back down.

#2924 evilw0n

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Posted 20 December 2012 - 04:02 AM

Got another dumb question. My new build was averaging 7-9 seconds boot time to login screen, but today I put in my 2TB storage drive and boot time has doubled. On the starting windows screen with the colors, with just the ssd, it would go to login screen before even finishing that animation. Now it sits on it for 12-15 seconds. Is this normal? Is the OS just checking files on the drive or something? I took the 2tb out of boot sequence altogether too. Just curious if there is anything I can do to get that boot time back down.


What's your setup? I looked back a few pages and did not see anything. What OS? What other software /other changes have you loaded / made since you built it and had the 7-9 second time?

My side commentary / question - How often are you rebooting that this plays an issue? I mean how much time do you want to waste worrying about 5 extra seconds at boot time? If time = money, you'd need to reboot it >720 times if it takes you an hour to "gain" back any time.

#2925 Trace17

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Posted 20 December 2012 - 05:15 AM

What's your setup? I looked back a few pages and did not see anything. What OS? What other software /other changes have you loaded / made since you built it and had the 7-9 second time?

My side commentary / question - How often are you rebooting that this plays an issue? I mean how much time do you want to waste worrying about 5 extra seconds at boot time? If time = money, you'd need to reboot it >720 times if it takes you an hour to "gain" back any time.


samsung 840 ssd boot drive, 2tb WD storage drive, win7, i5 3570k, 660ti gpu. Any software changes I made prior (installing chrome, Office, steam, etc.) didn't have any effect and it booted up very quick with those installed. Hooked up the second drive today and immediately noticed a difference.

It's not a huge issue, I know (insert first world problems joke here I guess). I just find it odd how it almost doubles the time to boot up, which I do once or twice a day, on average. I'm not going to lose sleep over it, just curious why it made such a difference.

#2926 Prota

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Posted 20 December 2012 - 05:27 AM

I tried connecting my friend's PSU today but it ended up being more of a problem than anything. It doesn't have a pci-e connector, so I don't see how I can hook it up to the video card. Also, when I turned on the power supply, the lights on the motherboard came on, but the pc wouldn't power up when I hit the power button on either the board or the case. Maybe I'm just getting a bit anxious/frustrated and that's causing me to overlook a lot of things... If his PSU isn't capable of powering my computer, I guess I'll have to RMA the corsair. It's just going to stink if I can't get this done by Christmas, as my laptop is my only computer until this gets done. Hopefully my father understands that he might have to wait a bit longer for his gift.

#2927 JBaz

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Posted 20 December 2012 - 05:27 AM

WD storage drive a green 5400/5900rpm drive? That would account for the extra time.

I tried connecting my friend's PSU today but it ended up being more of a problem than anything. It doesn't have a pci-e connector, so I don't see how I can hook it up to the video card. Also, when I turned on the power supply, the lights on the motherboard came on, but the pc wouldn't power up when I hit the power button on either the board or the case. Maybe I'm just getting a bit anxious/frustrated and that's causing me to overlook a lot of things... If his PSU isn't capable of powering my computer, I guess I'll have to RMA the corsair. It's just going to stink if I can't get this done by Christmas, as my laptop is my only computer until this gets done. Hopefully my father understands that he might have to wait a bit longer for his gift.

PCI-e is nothing more than a few 12v and ground wires, easy to use a molex to 6 pin adapter that most graphic cards come with these days.

Try this, install the cpu, fan, gpu, but leave out the ram pieces. See if it goes through post and gives you any error.
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#2928 Trace17

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Posted 20 December 2012 - 06:10 AM

WD storage drive a green 5400/5900rpm drive? That would account for the extra time.


It's caviar black but I don't recall the rpm off the top of my head. I want to say 7200rpm but not sure.

#2929 Prota

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Posted 20 December 2012 - 06:47 AM

WD storage drive a green 5400/5900rpm drive? That would account for the extra time.


PCI-e is nothing more than a few 12v and ground wires, easy to use a molex to 6 pin adapter that most graphic cards come with these days.

Try this, install the cpu, fan, gpu, but leave out the ram pieces. See if it goes through post and gives you any error.


Just checked and sadly it seems that my card didn't come with an adapter. I believed I tried what you said with the previous psu before and nothing happened, but I'll try that out again after work tomorrow and let you know if anything changed.

#2930 joshb123

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Posted 21 December 2012 - 06:22 AM

I almost forgot to come back and thank you for your help JBaz, I went ahead and bought and put together what you recommended.

Thanks Guy

#2931 Prota

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Posted 22 December 2012 - 02:53 AM

I talked to another rep at EVGA and this time I was told that it may be the motherboard that's at fault here. I know JBaz personally vouches for the corsair cx430s's compatibility, so I'm leaning with the 2nd rep on this one. And when purchasing parts, the motherboard was a "good value for the amount spent" kind of thing, rather than being a board that's generally recommended aside from that one deal which I (regrettably) bit on.

EVGA won't accept or do any shipping until after Jan 3rd, and even so can't replace my product because for some reason my motherboard does not have a serial number on the actual board like it's supposed to. The sticker between the cpu and memory (which is what's supposed to have it) has two sets of number/letter combinations, but neither are serial numbers. And of course, the label with the serial number that was on the box had to be mailed in with the rebate, so that's gone. I may be able to get the rebate site to get me the number after the rebate processes, but that may take quite some time. Since newegg's customer service hours are done for today, I'll call tomorrow and see they can send me a replacement board instead as it has a replacement-only policy. I imagine that they have to receive the current board first, process some stuff, THEN send the new board. Man, I think I have some really bad luck...please let this pc (if it ever works) be worth it. TT_TT

#2932 Prota

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Posted 22 December 2012 - 02:55 AM

And despite all the issues that have come up (again, terrible luck it seems), I'd really like to thank everyone who has helped me so far in this whole crusade. I've really appreciated all the advice and feedback that I've gotten.

#2933 elessar123

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Posted 26 December 2012 - 06:13 AM

Saw this on SD.

Newegg has a PNY Geforce GTX 670 with Borderlands 2 and Assassins Creed 3 for $279.99 after rebate.

#2934 Mako1215

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Posted 26 December 2012 - 06:55 AM

Saw this on SD.

Newegg has a PNY Geforce GTX 670 with Borderlands 2 and Assassins Creed 3 for $279.99 after rebate.


Ughhh I SOOOOOO want one!!

First, how can you claim prior non-existance to devalue a movement? I am sure the civil rights movement would love that. "Well, there was no movement to free the slaves before, so why is it relavent now?"

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#2935 JBaz

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Posted 27 December 2012 - 12:25 AM

that was definitely a good deal, considering the craptastic Galaxy's were front page SD twice for $305 and I hate Galaxy cards. PNY is a good maker and never had problems with them in the past 15 years. I laugh at all the people on SD who debated against me saying that the Galaxy deal was "too good to pass up"... Not going to buy into a $300 Pinto card.

#2936 Duo_Maxwell

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 10:30 PM

so here's my build a pc question...

I have a launch 360 core system that has been dead for about 2 years now (it had a good run...). Anyhow lately I was thinking about building a small itx box to use as a HTPC & run XBMC for streaming content and so forth. Then I thought it would be cool to gut the old 360 and use the case for this build. Has anyone ever attempted this?

I already know a few necessary things from looking at the guts and a bit of research will be required such as in order to run Netflix with XBMC I think I need to have Windows installed. Also, the Xbox PSU will be useless it looks like, but I was thinking about this as an alternative...

http://www.newegg.co...N82E16817129006

Space will of course be the biggest issue and the puzzle of making everything fit. Seeing as how need to fit at least a 2.5" drive in there (though I'd love to use a spare 2tb 3.5" drive i have) it will surely be tight, but I do not need it to have a BD or DVD drive of any kind in it either (I'll have a matching external one by using my old xbox HD-DVD player anyhow). The other big trick will be using as much as the existing 360 as possible, I know I'll have to cut up the back some yet I want to leave the front as in tact as I can and even maybe use the USB ports or IR sensor. But I fear that could be beyond my skill set.

So thoughts, comments or suggestions???

#2937 frostybroc

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Posted 06 January 2013 - 01:23 AM

Just a question,

How well is ibuypower? Are they really a deal? Just looking at possibly buying a Gaming PC, with a budget of $600 or so.

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#2938 Duo_Maxwell

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 02:48 PM

Just a question,

How well is ibuypower? Are they really a deal? Just looking at possibly buying a Gaming PC, with a budget of $600 or so.


Just mentioned this in another thread, but while I've never used them personally and can't totally vouch for I do know a guy who buys a new PC from there about every 2+ years and loves them.

I have seen what he gets and they do have some cool custom features (liquid cooling, customizable cases, etc.) that you don't see with the big companies. I never asked what he spends so I'm not even sure what you can get for around $600, but I do know that typically the lowest entry point for the "boutique" PC building sites (Digital Storm, Origin, Falcon Northwest, even Alienware) is usually at least around a $1000. So if they can build what you want for your price it maybe the best option for you without going through the big PC makers (even there I don't know if you could get a gaming desktop for that price).

#2939 Duo_Maxwell

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 02:54 PM

so here's my build a pc question...

I have a launch 360 core system that has been dead for about 2 years now (it had a good run...). Anyhow lately I was thinking about building a small itx box to use as a HTPC & run XBMC for streaming content and so forth. Then I thought it would be cool to gut the old 360 and use the case for this build. Has anyone ever attempted this?

I already know a few necessary things from looking at the guts and a bit of research will be required such as in order to run Netflix with XBMC I think I need to have Windows installed. Also, the Xbox PSU will be useless it looks like, but I was thinking about this as an alternative...

http://www.newegg.co...N82E16817129006

Space will of course be the biggest issue and the puzzle of making everything fit. Seeing as how need to fit at least a 2.5" drive in there (though I'd love to use a spare 2tb 3.5" drive i have) it will surely be tight, but I do not need it to have a BD or DVD drive of any kind in it either (I'll have a matching external one by using my old xbox HD-DVD player anyhow). The other big trick will be using as much as the existing 360 as possible, I know I'll have to cut up the back some yet I want to leave the front as in tact as I can and even maybe use the USB ports or IR sensor. But I fear that could be beyond my skill set.

So thoughts, comments or suggestions???


C'mon nobody's attempted this or thought about it? I figure if I can solve the power supply issue and use an itx board with on-board graphics then bust out the Dremel I can fit it inside no worries. Using the actual USB ports & IR sensor is another story. Nobody has any suggestions, anything?

#2940 Mippo

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Posted 09 January 2013 - 02:58 PM

Is there any site that offers good combo deals for Motherboard / Processor purchases? I see the Processor I want, the i7-3770k is on sale at Micro Center for $230, but it's in-store only and I don't leave anywhere near one (Florida). Is there any special way to get that deal or if you don't live near a store you are screwed. I wouldn't mind paying shipping at that price since it's still $90 cheaper then Amazon and Newegg right now I just don't think there's a way to do it :(

Beyond that, mainly looking to buy i7-3770k and Asus P8Z77-v Deluxe, any good sites offering combo deals like that I should be on the lookout for? Also, for those shopping a while, what are good sale prices for these items. I just started looking about 1.5 months ago, and I saw the 3770k for $250 on a lightning deal once, and the cheapest I've seen the Motherboard is $254, normally around $260 although it just jumped up to $284 / $290 on Newegg. In hindsight, I should've jumped on the 3770k $250 lightning deal, but before the deal it was priced at $280 so I didn't think it was that great of a special until after the lightning deal it shot up to $320 where it's been for the past month.