Installation Help! (56k Unsafe!)

ITDEFX

ITDEFX

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Ok, so the rest of the parts arrived today. Now to put that sucker together.

Oops that ZaLman cooler is fuckING HUGE! (and sharp too!)

Althought I like the case, I am already regreting it because the POWER supply is at the bottom and the one cable I need to reach to power the mother board is an inch SHORT!!!:bomb: It's the 8 pin EATX12v cable that sits to the top left of the MB. Not only that but the Zaman fan blocks it and even if that's not the case, the Evga 260 card is so huge that I can barely go over it!!

Speaking of that video card.

It came with two 6 pin to molex power connectors. They connect fine but each 6 pin connector has 2 molex (a y-cable). Does that mean I have to use 4 molex power cables (2 for each 6 pin y-cable)) to power up this card? I can do it but then I don't have enough for the case fans :(

As for the EATX12v cable, please tell me that Microcenter sells an extender !!!

My power supply has power cords that are labled PCI 1, PCI 2, CPU1, CPU2!


This is so confusing!


HARP!!!

:cry:
 
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I don't think they make extenders but as far as I know, many cases which have the PS at the bottom have room to take wires through the backside (meaning behind the mobo), which should give you a bit more room.

EDIT* SOS posted this in my PC setup thread so this should give you a better idea what I'm talking about. Hope he doesn't mind me posting it.
http://www.cheapassgamer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4179295&postcount=22

Most new PS already have GPU power connectors. My 2 year old GPU has 2 6 pin connectors for graphics cards. Those molex adapters that came with your adapter are for power supplies which don't have them and if your's don't, then yes, you need to use 4 molex connectors.

As for all the connectors from your PS, if you can't find a spot on the mobo or other device (such as the graphics card) for it to connect to, you don't need it.
 
[quote name='Vinny']I don't think they make extenders but as far as I know, many cases which have the PS at the bottom have room to take wires through the backside (meaning behind the mobo), which should give you a bit more room.

EDIT* SOS posted this in my PC setup thread so this should give you a better idea what I'm talking about. Hope he doesn't mind me posting it.
http://www.cheapassgamer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4179295&postcount=22

Most new PS already have GPU power connectors. My 2 year old GPU has 2 6 pin connectors for graphics cards. Those molex adapters that came with your adapter are for power supplies which don't have them and if your's don't, then yes, you need to use 4 molex connectors.

As for all the connectors from your PS, if you can't find a spot on the mobo or other device (such as the graphics card) for it to connect to, you don't need it.[/quote]

Doh!

Forgot the other side opens up

however new problem.

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there is no way I can slip the power cable to reach the top other side :bomb:

so your saying go ahead and use the labeled GPU 1 and 2 from the power supply or use the ones that came with the video card (the y cable) and hook all 4 molexs to it ? :hot:
 
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Ok, I was able to do a temp solution.

I flipped the power supply on it's back and was able to reach the power port on the mb, however the cord is now in full contact with the radiator fins and fan blades on the zaman cooler.


suggestions?
 
Use the GPU connectors from the PS, they're a direct connection and so they'll supply the cleanest power.

You really can't slip the 24 pin though any of those long oval holes? Wow, I figured that's what they were there for. Anyway, it looks like I was wrong about no 24 pin extension. This should give you more slack to work with.
http://www.directron.com/242.html

My bad, I thought you were talking about the 24 pin connector, not the 8 pin CPU power connector. I think this is what you need. Kinda pricey but Google might bring up better results.
http://www.amazon.com/Eps-Pin-Power-Extension-Cable/dp/B000M802RG
 
[quote name='Vinny']Use the GPU connectors from the PS, they're a direct connection and so they'll supply the cleanest power.

You really can't slip the 24 pin though any of those long oval holes? Wow, I figured that's what they were there for. Anyway, it looks like I was wrong about no 24 pin extension. This should give you more slack to work with.
http://www.directron.com/242.html

My bad, I thought you were talking about the 24 pin connector, not the 8 pin CPU power connector. I think this is what you need. Kinda pricey but Google might bring up better results.
http://www.amazon.com/Eps-Pin-Power-Extension-Cable/dp/B000M802RG[/quote]

ok

I found it at microcenter.
http://microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0260152
which I can pick up tomorrow after work (it's gonna be a pain but oh well I need it).
However the CPU1 connector (from the PSU) is only 4 pins and will fit the 4 pins on the MB but there is a cap that you can remove to use all 8 pins.

The motherboard is the P5Q Deluxe and the OCZ Stealth X stream PSU.

I am currently searching the web for images/videos of a build using this set up inside of the cosmos. Most videos/images I have seen seem to support the idea that my PSU cables are just too short :(
 
[quote name='ITDEFX']ok

I found it at microcenter.
http://microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0260152
which I can pick up tomorrow after work (it's gonna be a pain but oh well I need it).
However the CPU1 connector (from the PSU) is only 4 pins and will fit the 4 pins on the MB but there is a cap that you can remove to use all 8 pins.

The motherboard is the P5Q Deluxe and the OCZ Stealth X stream PSU.

I am currently searching the web for images/videos of a build using this set up inside of the cosmos. Most videos/images I have seen seem to support the idea that my PSU cables are just too short :([/QUOTE]

You need to read the manual then to make sure when to use 8 vs when to use 4. AFAIK, the 8 pin connector for really high end, power hungry processors or when you plan to do some heavy voltage increases for OCing. Most processors need 4. But again, I don't really know for sure.

If you do need eight, you should be able to combine the two 4 pin connectors into a single 8 pin (one should slide next to the other so they look like a single 8 pin connector) but it might be designed as stand alone, meaning they don't connect and you just plug both in individually.

And yes, it is more than likely your PS cables are too short because most PSes were designed to be at the top of the case, not the bottom, which means they'd need shorter cables for things near the top (CPU power, mobo power) and longer cables for others (GPU, HDs, optical drives).
 
As Vinny said, use the PCI-E power connectors that are on the power supply for your video card. Don't use the Y cable that came w/ your video card.

I think a lot of people, including myself, are still confused with choosing between using 4 pin 12v cable versus 8 pin 12v cable to the motherboard. But I think Vinny hit the spot: say if you're using Core 2 Quad Extreme processors, you might want to use all 8 pins for stability reasons. If you're just using the regular C2D or basic C2Q, then most likely the system will run stable with just 4 pin connector. I know people running C2D CPUs and has all 8 pins plugged in and running fine, so it's not like it'll fry anything, might as well plug them all in since you're getting the extender anyway.

You installed your memories incorrectly. Each piece of your memory should be seated on the slots of the same color. I see that your motherboard has them color coded yellow and black. So that means both pieces of your memory should be on the yellow slots, not one yellow and one black. When you have your memories like you did, they're not running in dual channel mode.

*edit* Also I would like to see a bigger picture of the inside of the case, just to see if I can figure something to help you manage your cables since the Cosmos isn't cable friendly.
 
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ok here are the pics, according to the P5Q Deluxe Manual, the CPU power (page 2-36) it says
-Do not forget to connect the 8 pin EATX12V power Plug other wise the system will not boot.

There is no 8 PIN cable coming from the PSU, just two 4 pin CPU1/CPU2 ones. Yes I do plan on overclocking it to at least 3.0ghz (from 2.5) on a Core 2 Quad. (9300), but that won't happen for a week or so to see how stable the system is at 2.5ghz. Thats another reason why I got the big cooler.

Anyways can anyone recommend another PSU with LONGER power cables from Microcenter. Best buy and CC is closer to my work/house but if nothing is longer then I need to go to Microcenter to get it.

Thanks.


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I never said there should be a 8 pin connector, I said that you should be able to use the two 4 pin connectors in the 8 pin slot. Plug in CPU 1 to the uncovered side of the 8 pin hole, and then uncover the other side of the 8 pin slot and stick in CPU 2 there. That's the same as being a single 8 pin connector.

You most likely will have a hard time finding a PS with longer cables.. I honestly don't think any PS makers even make that a priority... it's not something you can find out by looking on a box either.

I'm honestly wondering why you got that case. It's fuking huge!:lol:
 
Corsair makes power supplies with long cables. I have 3 of them and as you can see from this pic, the cables are long enough to be routed from the back of my case. I can't recall how long the 8 pin (4+4 pin) power connector is since my motherboard doesn't use it, but since you're getting the extender I can't imagine it'll be a problem.

What is that strings of black wires that run up and down your case (in an S shape in your photos)?

You still have your RAMs installed wrong, both pieces should be in the yellow slots, not one yellow and one black.
 
Ok after running around Microcenter, BB, and *gasp* The City, I ended up finding a small store that sold me this for 3 bucks. it's a 4 to 8 pin. They said it should supply enough power to the cpu at 2.5ghz and enough for you to order an 8 to 8 pin then you can clock up.

Here are the pics

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Parts of the cable touch the radiator fins and the other is extremely close to the fan blades/in take.


I did go to microcenter and picked up that Corsair 650 psu as a last resort with 30 days full refund.

Is the connector safe?

[quote name='Vinny']I never said there should be a 8 pin connector, I said that you should be able to use the two 4 pin connectors in the 8 pin slot. Plug in CPU 1 to the uncovered side of the 8 pin hole, and then uncover the other side of the 8 pin slot and stick in CPU 2 there. That's the same as being a single 8 pin connector.

You most likely will have a hard time finding a PS with longer cables.. I honestly don't think any PS makers even make that a priority... it's not something you can find out by looking on a box either.

I'm honestly wondering why you got that case. It's fuking huge!:lol:[/quote]

[quote name='SOSTrooper']Corsair makes power supplies with long cables. I have 3 of them and as you can see from this pic, the cables are long enough to be routed from the back of my case. I can't recall how long the 8 pin (4+4 pin) power connector is since my motherboard doesn't use it, but since you're getting the extender I can't imagine it'll be a problem.

What is that strings of black wires that run up and down your case (in an S shape in your photos)?

You still have your RAMs installed wrong, both pieces should be in the yellow slots, not one yellow and one black.[/quote]

The large strings running from the top are the built in USB/FW/Audio/Power button ports connectors.
 
Ok after further studying of your photos, you installed the CPU fan backward. The fan should be on the right side (facing the RAMs) because then the fan can intake cooler air from the front of the case and exhaust warm air to the back of the case. That will also solve your problem of the cables being too close to the fan. The cable touching the copper fins will not be a problem for the CPU fan or the temperature.

Another thing you can try to do to prevent the 8 pin power cable (or any cable) from getting in the way of other components is to route your cable underneath the video card. I did this on my media PC as I didn't want one of my cables to go 'over' my video card, so I made it to route underneath it. Look at the pictures for a better idea on what I mean.

routing01.jpg


You see the grey cable running underneath the video card to get around to a port on the motherboard. You can do the same with your 4+4 pin cable along the red line I've drawn to decrease possible distance/length it needs to reach from the power supply to the motherboard plug.

routing03.jpg


[quote name='ITDEFX']
The large strings running from the top are the built in USB/FW/Audio/Power button ports connectors.[/QUOTE]

You can certainly route that entire strings of cables through the back of the case to the holes near the bottom and U-turn them up to the motherboard's plugs to free up some space.
 
SUCCESS!!

105_8544.jpg


Holy shit it would seem that either my PSU or my case HAD an extension cable after all...longer than the one I bought!... so the Cosair PSU is going back tomorrow as well.

SOS you were right about the CPU fan being backwards! :( So I fixed that.
I also fixed the memory seatings.

The cable layout is temporary until everything checks out ok!

Hope I didn't fry my mb/cpu with all this!
Thanks again people!
wish me luck!!
 
Well I powered on last night.

Nothing.

Motherboard lights come on.
All case fans spin.
CPU fan spins
Video Card fans spin.
Hard drives and Burners power up.

but........

Case power on button doesn't work (can't turn it on) and have to power up via the on button on MB.
NO POST BEEP(s)
No video signals (from either port)

Checked all cables and made sure everything was connected the way it was suppose to be.

Took MB out of case and tried out of case power up, still no POST beep or signal.

Took the entire thing apart and reassembled piece by piece.

Checked CPU and Fan. Found a minor scorch mark between CPU and heatsink housing but nothing else that would indicate a problem.

I think I should RMA the entire thing because I have read other people have reported having DOA units from New Egg before.
 
DOAs are common with some products. It could be for any reason. This is honestly where things get frustrating because you don't know where the problem is.

I'm guessing it's either the mobo, CPU, or the graphics card as everything else seems to work. I rarely see CPUs being the issue so maybe you installed it wrong though that's unlikely. It's more common to have issues with the mobo or GPU...
 
I am curious how the thing died in the first place or how scorch marks ended up on the CPU/heatsink.

I am thinking there is a hairline crack somewhere on the MB because installing the cooling fan made the MB a lot more heavier and even worse when I installed the video card.

I was like damn this is heavy.

So I am looking at about 50-100 bucks to ship it back to new egg and another week or 2 for them to send the new parts back to me. Great :(
 
Before you ship stuff back, where do you live? If you have a Fry's (or any computer store with a return policy and no restocking fees) near you, you can stroll through there and buy a motherboard/CPU combo to help you test your own system out. Return the stuff once you're done.

Cracked motherboard is very unlikely if you have installed the CPU fan after you have mounted the motherboard onto the case. I also have a massive cooling fan on my other computer and I'm afraid that the thing will topple over due to gravity, so I bent a paper clip to offload some of its weigh. Motherboards aren't this fragile, but it will be difficult for you to test what is wrong without spare parts.

Less and less new motherboards 'beep' nowadays, my Abit board does not beep at all when something is wrong, whether I deliberately left out the memory or video card. Some mid range boards will have LED that spells out a code so that you can check the manual to see what the codes indicate. Some expensive boards will actually talk and tell you what is missing and what needs to be checked.

My advice is to retest the hardware outside the case. First hooking up just the CPU, CPU fan, one piece of memory, and video card onto the motherboard. Don't even bother with the case buttons for now. Use a plier or screw drive to short the 2 power on/off pins on the board. One time I've seen a case that has a stuck restart switch, which means that as soon as I plug the wire onto the board, it seem as though the system wouldn't boot but the fans are on. But it really was the restart button keep rebooting the computer non-stop. Something 'simple' like that could happen.
 
Too bad CompUSA went out of business, they could check computer parts to see if they worked or not usually for free (like memory, graphics card, HDs, etc.). They charted for parts like mobos and CPUs I think but it wasn't too bad.

You might wanna considering finding a local place and having them check your parts. I went through this with my build. I spent $150 shipping/replacing stuff to NewEgg and nothing worked. I RMA'd the PS first but that didn't solve the problem. Then I took it to a local repair guy, he found the problem was infact bad PS. Never figured I'd get 2 bad PSes.. Could've saved $100 if I had the guy check the PC in the first place.
 
I will try doing it outside the case again.

I am thinking it could very well be the video card.

I am also thinking it could be the CPU as well considering two things, the scorch mark and the lack of being warm even after being shut off and pulled out. Perhaps that cooler is doing a really good job after all. :p

Now a few questions.

-If it is the CPU, the only way to see if power is actually going into it is to let it get warm. I am assuming that if I power it without the Cooler, it will get very warm within minutes and enough to tell me if it is getting power?
Is this an ok idea just for a few minutes or will it do damage to the CPU. I read the 45nm produce less heat then my old 90nm P4-3ghz so this might be tricky.

-There are NO Fry's in my area (Northern VA) and CompUSA closed down last year. Microcenter would be the best bet to buy, test and return but I am sure they will charge a restock fee on the CPU. However it might look suspicious that I am buying vital components (MB, CPU, VC) and returning them for a refund.

I was about to insert my old EVGA 6800 GT but then realize IT'S AGP and NOT PCI-E!!!

As for the power switch, the P5Q Deluxe MB has an actual POWER and RESET button on the motherboard which I can easily use to power the thing on.

And yes I am using latex gloves when handling the parts.
 
Ok I cleaned off the Thermal Paste as best I could on both the CPU and the Cooler.

There are scorch marks on both the CPU and the Cooler. WHAT THE fuck HAPPENED?!?!?!

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Never power on the system without the CPU fan attached to the CPU. CPU will get extremely hot within seconds and may cause actual damages even though new CPUs and motherboards can shut off if temperature is too high.

You can easily detect heat coming from the CPU by touching the pipes near the bottom of the CPU fan. I'm sure there is power going to the CPU, but whether the CPU is working properly to give you viable displays on the monitor is another thing.

Did you try plugging in the power supply's 4+4 pin to the motherboard without the extender? How about just the CPU1 (4 pin) to the motherboard without the extender?

The scorch mark is not an uncommon appearance, mostly due to the CPU touching the CPU fan directly when the power is on. It's hard to say that the CPU is damaged from that, but this problem can be prevented if more thermal paste is applied to the surface. Usually about a 3/4 of a dime size (and thickness) of thermal paste is enough for the Core 2 Duos. If you did have enough thermal paste all this time and never powered on the system w/o any thermal paste, then I don't have an idea how the scorch marks got there, other than maybe it wasn't spread evenly throughout the surface.

If nothing works at this point, your best bet is to purchase another CPU/motherboard to test your setup. Get a cheap OEM Celeron or low end Core 2 Duos (E2XXX series) if there is restocking fees.
 
I spread as much as I could squeeze out from the amount of Thermal Paste the fan gave me (which is the top 3rd size part of my pinky) and spread it properly all over the CPU housing. I did power up without the fan for about 2-3 seconds then powered down. The cpu did NOT feel hot or warm. It is if there was no power to it. I am pretty sure it was dead on arrival.

The scorch marks concern me right now. Newegg is going to see this and think I overclocked it and blew it out and prevent me from getting an exchange CPU/Motherboard. The video card I should be able to get another one. The Case, although I was looking forward to this, I am going to be pissed tomorrow when I ship it out via UPS as I know they are going to charge me more than 50$ for it. :bomb:

Is Newegg cool about doing even exchanges or do they test everything they get back and fight you tooth and nail in order to get an exchange?



[quote name='SOSTrooper']Never power on the system without the CPU fan attached to the CPU. CPU will get extremely hot within seconds and may cause actual damages even though new CPUs and motherboards can shut off if temperature is too high.

You can easily detect heat coming from the CPU by touching the pipes near the bottom of the CPU fan. I'm sure there is power going to the CPU, but whether the CPU is working properly to give you viable displays on the monitor is another thing.

Did you try plugging in the power supply's 4+4 pin to the motherboard without the extender? How about just the CPU1 (4 pin) to the motherboard without the extender?

The scorch mark is not an uncommon appearance, mostly due to the CPU touching the CPU fan directly when the power is on. It's hard to say that the CPU is damaged from that, but this problem can be prevented if more thermal paste is applied to the surface. Usually about a 3/4 of a dime size (and thickness) of thermal paste is enough for the Core 2 Duos. If you did have enough thermal paste all this time and never powered on the system w/o any thermal paste, then I don't have an idea how the scorch marks got there, other than maybe it wasn't spread evenly throughout the surface.

If nothing works at this point, your best bet is to purchase another CPU/motherboard to test your setup. Get a cheap OEM Celeron or low end Core 2 Duos (E2XXX series) if there is restocking fees.[/quote]
 
Ok I sent out the case, cpu, mb, and video card on Monday via UPS. Cost me 100 bucks!!:bomb: God damn it UPS is such a rip off!

Anyways.

Newegg got it, I told them about how the video card serial numbers don't match (off by 2 numbers) and they put it into my file. The CSR said that it should be REPLACED. However in the emails I got from Newegg they said everything was inspected and will be REPAIRED!. Ok, how do they go about REPAIRING a scorched CPU or dead mb or video card?
I really hope they mean REPLACED.

So I expect it to be shipped back on Monday and get it by Wednesday or Thursday at the latest.

Anyways... I have talked to some techs at my workplace and they *think* that the powersupply might have caused the overload. How would I go about and test this because I am afraid if I hook it up to my current system, and if it IS the power supply, I could end up killing that system in the process. Also question about thermal paste. Is there a certain type or any thermal paste will do? I saw some generic CompUSA thermal paste at Microcenter for 99 cents and was wondering if that will do?

thanks
 
Ok got the new case , mb, cpu and video card today.

Reinstalled everything into the case.

Guess what?

NOTHING HAPPENED!!

No POST BOOT no video signal , NOTHING!!

and the case button STILL DOESN'T WORK! :bomb:

What are the chances this happening TWICE!?!?!?!

ARGH
 
ok after a bit more fiddling I found the problem,

one of those two sticks is BAD!!!

system won't post boot so I have to dump the bad one to get the system up and running.

Great, and it came with a free 4 gig flash drive I have to send back now :(

bah

other than that, the system is really quite but I am still having problems with the power button not turning the system on. hmm..
 
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