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Building my first PC


#31 crystalklear64   Ded CAGiversary!   13617 Posts   Joined 15.4 Years Ago  

crystalklear64

Posted 10 July 2008 - 01:41 AM

OP, I've also decided to build my own PC. So far I've only purchased the case for $22 after rebate from Radio Shack. I'm overwhelmed with the number of MB/processor options at this point. http://www.thermalta...0/vg1000bns.asp

Couple questions you can ask yourself to make it easier.

Which video card will you be buying?

Do you want the x2 tech for the card (crossfire or sli)?

Do you need extras such as firewire?

Do you want to go for a quad core now and hope companies move to support core optimization, or stick with a dual and have a higher speed for cheaper, but might potentially have to replace it sooner?


Some helpful tips.

4-4-4-12 ddr2 800 is almost precisely as fast as 1066 at lower (5-5-5-15) timings, and can be had for cheaper. Stick with ddr2 800 for now. ddr3 is not worth it.

Always buy more PSU than you need. You never know if you'll want to add more devices down the line. You don't need to get ridiculous like grabbing that 1000w psu when you only need 400w.

#32 SynGamer   Daydreamer & Dilettante. Rated M for Mature. CAGiversary!   8804 Posts   Joined 13.3 Years Ago  

Posted 10 July 2008 - 05:50 AM

Couple questions you can ask yourself to make it easier.

Which video card will you be buying?

Do you want the x2 tech for the card (crossfire or sli)?

Do you need extras such as firewire?

Do you want to go for a quad core now and hope companies move to support core optimization, or stick with a dual and have a higher speed for cheaper, but might potentially have to replace it sooner?

Some helpful tips.

4-4-4-12 ddr2 800 is almost precisely as fast as 1066 at lower (5-5-5-15) timings, and can be had for cheaper. Stick with ddr2 800 for now. ddr3 is not worth it.

Always buy more PSU than you need. You never know if you'll want to add more devices down the line. You don't need to get ridiculous like grabbing that 1000w psu when you only need 400w.

I'd go even further and ask what intentions he has for the new PC. Gaming? CAD/Graphics design? Multitasking and/or work environment? From there we could tailor what he wants/needs. He could probably get a great deal on a motherboard and memory at Newegg, just to start things off.

#33 crystalklear64   Ded CAGiversary!   13617 Posts   Joined 15.4 Years Ago  

crystalklear64

Posted 10 July 2008 - 06:48 AM

I'd go even further and ask what intentions he has for the new PC. Gaming? CAD/Graphics design? Multitasking and/or work environment? From there we could tailor what he wants/needs. He could probably get a great deal on a motherboard and memory at Newegg, just to start things off.

Well of course, but he was looking at a mobo/cpu specifically, so the questions are aimed at that specifically.

#34 SynGamer   Daydreamer & Dilettante. Rated M for Mature. CAGiversary!   8804 Posts   Joined 13.3 Years Ago  

Posted 10 July 2008 - 10:18 AM

Alright, i have an E7200 and OCZ DDR2 800 PC-6400...i wan to overclock both but have no idea where to begin. The FSB basically determines everything from what i've gathered, that and the multiplier. I adjust the FSB and the multiplier ups the CPU's speed...but what about memory? I'm only looking to slightly overclock, nothing drastic. If i can get the CPU around 3.0GHz, that would be great, but if it's below 3.0, that's fine as well.

#35 crystalklear64   Ded CAGiversary!   13617 Posts   Joined 15.4 Years Ago  

crystalklear64

Posted 10 July 2008 - 04:56 PM

Are you looking for a synched overclock or just trying to max out each component?

Heres a simple guide for just overclocking the memory if you don't care about synched overclocking-

OC'ing Procedure
First step is to find the stable timings at the stock speed of your memory (or motherboard if you have faster than PC6400). Two examples here, first is if you have some PC5300, the motherboard will default the memory speed to 333MHz, even though it supports higher. The other option is with something faster, like PC9600, at the moment, the highest supported memory speed is PC6400, so the motherboard will default that PC9600 to 400MHz. Then at that speed, lower the timings one at a time until the lowest values that are still stable have been obtained.
After the tightest timings at stock are found, raise the timings one at a time until you find the one that makes the largest MHz increase over your previous timings, and find the max. Repeat until higher timings do not gain more than 10MHz.

For a more explicit breakdown, I'll explain what to do more explicitly with some examples.

Get memtest86+ and install it on a floppy or cd if you don't have a motherboard that has it on the bios (DFI). Boot with the memtest floppy/cd in to make sure it boots into that instead of your normal OS. Once you have confirmed this, hit escape to reboot and then go into the bios.

What we're gonna do the first step I talked about before, finding the tightest timings the memory can run at stock speeds. First, manually set the timings to the rated speed of the memory, no "auto" settings should be seen for Tcl, Trcd, Trp or Tras!

From here, we will work on one timing at a time.
start with Cas latency (Tcl)
1. Lower timing one step, save bios and restart, boot into memtest.
2. In memtest, change to test #5, loop it one to three times. (less if you're in a hurry, more for more 'accurate' results)
3. If memtest displays no errors, go back to step 1, if you do get errors, continue to step 4. If it does not boot, either hit the reset button while holding down insert or clear the BIOS, re-enter the settings that you had just tried to boot with and continue to step 4.
4. Raise timing one step, then go back to step 1, but with Trcd, then Trp. Adjust Tras when needed to keep it equal to Tcl + Trcd + 2

When completed all 3 timings, run a few full passes of memtest to ensure that it is at least slightly stable. Then write down what the timings are somewhere. We have just completed the first step!


Now, the where the real fun begins. We're gonna find the maximum speed at each set of timings, however, it's gonna take a long time unless you're good at guessing :)
1. Bump up the FSB or HTT up 2-3 MHz
2. Boot into windows
3. Run SuperPI 2M
4. If no error, continue to step 5. If there is an error, go to step 6.
5. Raise FSB or HTT 2-3MHz with a program like clockgen or systool and go back to step 3.
6. Drop the FSB or HTT 1MHz
7. Run as many SuperPI 32M instances as your CPU supports threads (ie: dual core, run two instances of superPI out of seperate folders). If there is an error, go back to step 6. If no error, continue to step 8.
8. Run 32M one more to double check stability, then write down the MHz obtained along with the timings and voltage used to get there. I recommend making a chart for this, tabulating the maximum MHz at each set of timings and voltage.


Now we have two options: bump up memory voltage, or raise the timings. I advise first finding the timing sets that should be focused on, then change the voltage with each of these until you have tested each timing set with the voltage settings that you feel are safe for normal operation. Either way you go, follow the above steps to find the maximum stable speed. You should always test things systematically.

For the timings, you should change one timing at a time until you find which ones make a significant effect on maximum MHz. This is something that will take a bit of playing around and guess-work until you find something that works out well. Again, be sure to only change on timing at once, and do not touch the voltage at this time.

If you decide to increase voltage, be sure to only change voltage, leave all the timings alone. One rule I try to follow at all times when overclocking is only change one variable at a time. If more than one is changed at once, you don't know how much each is effecting effecting stability.
Start out at stock voltage (2.6v for DDR1 and 1.8v for DDR2) and test 0.05v to 0.1v higher, find max, increase voltage again, find max, etc.. until you decide that the voltage is high enough.
This will vary for all ICs, refer to the quick guide for ICs at the end of this guide. Be very careful with voltage, as some can fail prematurely if you give it too much. Also, always be aware of the temps your sticks are running at when overclocking.

Link- http://eclipseoc.com...id=6,51,0,0,1,0

Edited by crystalklear64, 10 July 2008 - 05:14 PM.


#36 SynGamer   Daydreamer & Dilettante. Rated M for Mature. CAGiversary!   8804 Posts   Joined 13.3 Years Ago  

Posted 10 July 2008 - 05:14 PM

I heard sync'd overclocking is better in the long run...

#37 crystalklear64   Ded CAGiversary!   13617 Posts   Joined 15.4 Years Ago  

crystalklear64

Posted 10 July 2008 - 05:28 PM

Well if you want super easy mode overclocking with settings that have worked in the past,
Set your FSB to 333.
Set your vcore to Auto or 1.21 if it doesn't work.
Disable Speedstep
oh also multiplier @ 9.5 but that should already be there since its the default

This should take you past 3ghz. Normally, you don't go straight to a setting, you work your way up slowly, but this has worked for almost everyone with that cpu from what I've seen so you should be good to go. Of course it takes all the fun out of overclocking imo, but you could probably go higher if you wanted.

Make sure your temps are around 60 over 65 and you'll need to think about lowering your voltage.

Edited by crystalklear64, 10 July 2008 - 05:34 PM.


#38 mav451   CAGiversary! CAGiversary!   162 Posts   Joined 11.2 Years Ago  

Posted 11 July 2008 - 02:44 AM

You should mention that SuperPI is not a realistic stressing tool. Use something more serious like OCCT or Prime 95 (10k or larger).

#39 Richard Longfellow   Mr. Warmth CAGiversary!   1398 Posts   Joined 12.8 Years Ago  

Richard Longfellow

Posted 11 July 2008 - 01:56 PM

If temps aren't to my liking i'll install a 90mm fan on the side panel which is directly over the HSF, and would provide addition air pumping right onto it. Suggestions?


The cooler fins will only run one way, so you can't have fans blowing from 2 perpendicular directions. Assuming you're using an 80-120 mm fan, and your board has monitoring and voltage control, it will be fine.

As a general rule, you need to have a basic airflow path, entering at the bottom and exiting at the top (the isolated bottom mounted PSUs are an exception). Try to set up your fans so that they push air in the same direction. If you mount fans with conflicting airflow you'll create hot spots in the case.

#40 SynGamer   Daydreamer & Dilettante. Rated M for Mature. CAGiversary!   8804 Posts   Joined 13.3 Years Ago  

Posted 11 July 2008 - 07:44 PM

The cooler fins will only run one way, so you can't have fans blowing from 2 perpendicular directions. Assuming you're using an 80-120 mm fan, and your board has monitoring and voltage control, it will be fine.

As a general rule, you need to have a basic airflow path, entering at the bottom and exiting at the top (the isolated bottom mounted PSUs are an exception). Try to set up your fans so that they push air in the same direction. If you mount fans with conflicting airflow you'll create hot spots in the case.

My thinking was that the 90mm fan is directly in-front of/over the CPU and HSF and i could make the 90mm side fan slower than the one on the HSF? Also, with the placement of the graphics card, i'm thinking about possibly putting a fan at the bottom of the case near the HDD bays and having it blow straight up? Only concern is the graphics card but it has a fan on the card itself and the side vent is literally right beside it. By the way, this is my actual case that i'm using.

The front and rear fans are 120mm's, just to clarify.

Posted Image

#41 mav451   CAGiversary! CAGiversary!   162 Posts   Joined 11.2 Years Ago  

Posted 11 July 2008 - 08:05 PM

Eh, from the pics I've seen - your OCZ hsf is eerily similar to AC Freezer series heatsink. Which is NOT a top-down airflow-based heatsink. Your CPU vent really won't be doing much at all b/c the cool air that is blowing into the heatsink is coming from the front of OCZ heatsink (which is on a perpendicular plane).

If anything, I'd probably block off the vents to accentuate the front to back airflow in your case.

I kind of have issue with the CPU side vents in general b/c I see it more as a ricer thing than anything else. It's a by-product of the old-school days of top-down cooling, which are long over.

#42 SynGamer   Daydreamer & Dilettante. Rated M for Mature. CAGiversary!   8804 Posts   Joined 13.3 Years Ago  

Posted 11 July 2008 - 10:08 PM

I'm not going to use a 90mm fan, i might just keep the air-duct installed instead and extent it up to the HSF (which will be front-to-back).

#43 SynGamer   Daydreamer & Dilettante. Rated M for Mature. CAGiversary!   8804 Posts   Joined 13.3 Years Ago  

Posted 11 July 2008 - 11:20 PM

Checking the specs on my motherboard, i noticed the following;

  • 1 x CPU fan header
  • 2 x system fan headers
  • 1 x power fan header
Now...i have front and rear 120mm fans and i would like to be able to control them but they have 4-pin (molex?) connectors which i believe means they plug directly into the PSU. What should i do, what are my options? Should i just connect them to the PSU and let them go at whatever speed is default? Am i able to hook them up to my motherboard and control them via software? Should i get a an controller (i would prefer to avoid this)?

#44 Richard Longfellow   Mr. Warmth CAGiversary!   1398 Posts   Joined 12.8 Years Ago  

Richard Longfellow

Posted 12 July 2008 - 01:36 AM

Checking the specs on my motherboard, i noticed the following;

  • 1 x CPU fan header
  • 2 x system fan headers
  • 1 x power fan header
Now...i have front and rear 120mm fans and i would like to be able to control them but they have 4-pin (molex?) connectors which i believe means they plug directly into the PSU. What should i do, what are my options? Should i just connect them to the PSU and let them go at whatever speed is default? Am i able to hook them up to my motherboard and control them via software? Should i get a an controller (i would prefer to avoid this)?


The fans didn't come with multiple plugs? If not you can buy separate connectors to plug them into the board. The main thing is to confirm that your board does indeed have temperature monitoring and voltage control, otherwise they're running at full speed period.

#45 SynGamer   Daydreamer & Dilettante. Rated M for Mature. CAGiversary!   8804 Posts   Joined 13.3 Years Ago  

Posted 12 July 2008 - 01:58 AM

I'm not sure how to check any of that...and the fans came with..um...

OOOO
(_)(_)(_)(_)

Basically it looks like two 4-pin connectors that could fit together.

Edited by SynGamer, 12 July 2008 - 04:25 AM.


#46 52club   This ain't intramurals!!! CAGiversary!   686 Posts   Joined 12.1 Years Ago  

Posted 12 July 2008 - 01:26 PM

Intel Core 2 Duo E7200 Wolfdale 2.53GHz LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor Model BX80571E7200 - Retail
$130

G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-6400CL5D-2GBNQ - Retail
$45

ASUS P5Q LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
$130

Antec earthwatts EA430 430W ATX12V v2.0 Power Supply - Retail
$60-$30 Rebate=$30

SAPPHIRE 100242L Radeon HD 4850 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card - Retail
$190-$30 Rebate=$160-$15 instant rebate=$145

HITACHI Deskstar P7K500 HDP725032GLA360 (0A35411) 320GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive -
$50

LG 20X DVD±R Super Multi DVD Burner Black ATAPI / E-IDE Model GSA-H55NK - OEM
$24

At about $630 before OS

I've got this case as mentioned before
http://www.overclock..._100_case/7.htm


My questions are:

Is the power supply sufficient?

I'm planning on purchasing a systems builders OS, I searched google, but I'm really looking for a site that does the pros and cons of XP vs Vista 32bit vs Vista 64 bit other than just that Vista 64 accepts more than 3gigs of Ram.

Other than the fans that come with the case/parts should I add any other fans?

I'm trying to get a decent PC with parts that aren't top notch, but are a great value, please mention any better values that I might have missed.

#47 SynGamer   Daydreamer & Dilettante. Rated M for Mature. CAGiversary!   8804 Posts   Joined 13.3 Years Ago  

Posted 12 July 2008 - 01:42 PM

You will want to pick up 1 more 120mm fan for the front of the case, like i did. I grabbed another Thermaltake because it pushes good air (78 CFM) and is rather quiet (<21 dBa). You literally have just about the same system so yes, the 430W PSU will be enough. If you plan on adding a lot of LEDs, a second graphics card (crossfire), more hard drives, and/or more optical drives, then i would suggest finding a 600W PSU but only if you plan on getting more things for this specific build. If not, you're fine.

OS wise, i would go with Vista 32-bit. Everything i've read makes me believe that the 64-bit drivers aren't worth the hassle currently simply because there are so many older programs that only have 32-bit drivers. So you might as well go 32-bit. Lastly, you will need/want an after market cooler if you plan on overclocking...and honestly, overclocking is where the CPU (E7200) shines and makes it's price that much better.

#48 jonac13   CAGiversary! CAGiversary!   353 Posts   Joined 11.6 Years Ago  

Posted 12 July 2008 - 01:47 PM

http://extreme.outer...culatorlite.jsp

According to that site, you'll only need 242 watts. It's not the perfect guide for power supplies, but it's a damn good indicator. Bookmark it if you plan on building more systems in the future.

#49 mav451   CAGiversary! CAGiversary!   162 Posts   Joined 11.2 Years Ago  

Posted 12 July 2008 - 01:48 PM



My questions are:

Is the power supply sufficient?

I'm planning on purchasing a systems builders OS, I searched google, but I'm really looking for a site that does the pros and cons of XP vs Vista 32bit vs Vista 64 bit other than just that Vista 64 accepts more than 3gigs of Ram.

Other than the fans that come with the case/parts should I add any other fans?

I'm trying to get a decent PC with parts that aren't top notch, but are a great value, please mention any better values that I might have missed.


The big thing with PSUs is not to get caught up by the wattage moniker - b/c it doesn't tell you if they measure that at 25C's or 40C's and higher. But, the EarthWatt's a decent low-end PSU (though I'm not as much of a fan now after my experience with the Neo HE line). The only area you want to pay attention to is the 12V lines - looks like a combined 34A. Since you're only using a 4850 though, it's plenty. You will want to pay more attention if you upgrade to a GPU that demands dual 6pin connectors and the like.

#50 SynGamer   Daydreamer & Dilettante. Rated M for Mature. CAGiversary!   8804 Posts   Joined 13.3 Years Ago  

Posted 12 July 2008 - 01:54 PM

The big thing with PSUs is not to get caught up by the wattage moniker - b/c it doesn't tell you if they measure that at 25C's or 40C's and higher. But, the EarthWatt's a decent low-end PSU (though I'm not as much of a fan now after my experience with the Neo HE line). The only area you want to pay attention to is the 12V lines - looks like a combined 34A. Since you're only using a 4850 though, it's plenty. You will want to pay more attention if you upgrade to a GPU that demands dual 6pin connectors and the like.

The 4870 uses 2 6-pin connectors, 4850 only uses 1 and it's quite efficient power wise with roughly a 210W peak power draw.

#51 SynGamer   Daydreamer & Dilettante. Rated M for Mature. CAGiversary!   8804 Posts   Joined 13.3 Years Ago  

Posted 12 July 2008 - 01:54 PM

http://extreme.outer...culatorlite.jsp

According to that site, you'll only need 242 watts. It's not the perfect guide for power supplies, but it's a damn good indicator. Bookmark it if you plan on building more systems in the future.

I came up to about 350W on that for my setup and i've always been told to add about 100W onto that score to be safe, so his 430W (and mine) should be plenty.

Edited by SynGamer, 12 July 2008 - 01:58 PM.


#52 jonac13   CAGiversary! CAGiversary!   353 Posts   Joined 11.6 Years Ago  

Posted 12 July 2008 - 02:01 PM

Also, on the matter of the OS... at this point, Vista is all but mature in the things that would make XP the choice one or two years ago. Performance on Vista has definitely caught up to XP, and the problem with drivers is virtually non-existent, especially given that you're building a new PC (and not messing with old stuff).

As for 32 v 64, that's really a matter of performance. 64-bit will perform better in video processing applications, memory-intensive applications, and the like, but there is still not as much support for 64-bit systems for it to be viable for everyday computing. A lot of the normal programs you probably use might actually perform weaker than if you were running 32-bit. 64-bit is a good long term option, as many software developers are likely to start developing with more optimization for 64-bit systems, but for now, you might see better performance for daily operation on a 32-bit system. If you want more precise information, might want to check out this guide:

http://www.extremete...,2280808,00.asp

The following article from Microsoft is sorta muddled with marketing speak, but still may prove helpful:

http://windowshelp.m...5c8a701033.mspx

#53 SynGamer   Daydreamer & Dilettante. Rated M for Mature. CAGiversary!   8804 Posts   Joined 13.3 Years Ago  

Posted 12 July 2008 - 02:05 PM

Can anyone help me with the fans problem i posted above? Can my motherboard support/control 2 120mm fans (front and rear) as well as the HSF? If so, can i get 4-pin molex connectors to 3-pin mobo connector? I would like to be able to monitor temps via software and adjust the fans accordingly if possible.

#54 TURBO   CAGiversary! CAGiversary!   363 Posts   Joined 11.7 Years Ago  

Posted 12 July 2008 - 02:06 PM

Intel Core 2 Duo E7200 Wolfdale 2.53GHz LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor Model BX80571E7200 - Retail
$130

G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-6400CL5D-2GBNQ - Retail
$45

ASUS P5Q LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
$130

Antec earthwatts EA430 430W ATX12V v2.0 Power Supply - Retail
$60-$30 Rebate=$30

SAPPHIRE 100242L Radeon HD 4850 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card - Retail
$190-$30 Rebate=$160-$15 instant rebate=$145

HITACHI Deskstar P7K500 HDP725032GLA360 (0A35411) 320GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive -
$50

LG 20X DVD±R Super Multi DVD Burner Black ATAPI / E-IDE Model GSA-H55NK - OEM
$24

At about $630 before OS

I've got this case as mentioned before
http://www.overclock..._100_case/7.htm


My questions are:

Is the power supply sufficient?

I'm planning on purchasing a systems builders OS, I searched google, but I'm really looking for a site that does the pros and cons of XP vs Vista 32bit vs Vista 64 bit other than just that Vista 64 accepts more than 3gigs of Ram.

Other than the fans that come with the case/parts should I add any other fans?

I'm trying to get a decent PC with parts that aren't top notch, but are a great value, please mention any better values that I might have missed.

you should be fine w/ that PSU as long as you dont OC.

If youre building using all those parts, there's a deal atm that would net you a slightly better mobo & the same vid card.

you can still use the Coupon VGA71115 for the vid card discount

http://promotions.ne...ds-_-ASUS070308

only you'd be using it on the ASUS instead.

Oh, and here's an article about XP & Vista you were asking about
http://www.techwarel...sta/index.shtml

the short answer is. 32 bit is more compatible with more legacy programs. If you arent going to be playing old games, vista 64 bit is your best bet. It will play 32 bit games as well, as long as they're vista compatible. you can check http://www.vistareadygames.com to get a general idea of it's support. not a complete list by far, but there are quite a few there. The only other issue w/ 64 bit vista is drivers, but all the hardware you list has 64 bit vista drivers so youre ok.

I would also recommend the Xigmatek HDT-S1283 HSF &
http://www.newegg.co...N82E16835233003
http://www.tomshardw...ts,1967-12.html

Scythe S-FLEX™ SFF21E 120 x 25 mm Fan to use on it
http://www.frozencpu...g36c15s60#blank
http://www.silentpcr...age5.html#sflex

that will significantly cut down on your noise and keep your cpu running icy cold even under sustained load.

Edited by TURBO, 12 July 2008 - 02:19 PM.


#55 SynGamer   Daydreamer & Dilettante. Rated M for Mature. CAGiversary!   8804 Posts   Joined 13.3 Years Ago  

Posted 12 July 2008 - 10:01 PM

So...about those fan connectors...

#56 TURBO   CAGiversary! CAGiversary!   363 Posts   Joined 11.7 Years Ago  

Posted 12 July 2008 - 11:14 PM

So...about those fan connectors...

don't worry about it. unless you're going to OC. are you OCing? if not, even 1 (if you have a neat cable clamp / tied wrapped cable uncluttered air path) 120mm fan on low should keep it plenty cool.

the best way to reduce fan noise is to use a noise dampening gasket & grommets. they even have rubber push screws which help a little too. 90% of the noise is produced by vibration, not wind or the bearings.

http://www.newegg.co...N82E16800999368
http://www.frozencpu...mets-Page1.html
http://www.frozencpu...rews-Page1.html

i beleive the mobo i listed uses 4 pin PWM, dont think it will throttle w/o it. not sure if it's just 1 or 2 though. you shouldnt need 2 imo. if it doesnt you can always get a silent fan like the Scythe S-FLEX. I would stick w/ using a direct connection or steady medium fan speed though, since PWM can actually increase noise in a lot of fans when throttling or varying speed.

#57 SynGamer   Daydreamer & Dilettante. Rated M for Mature. CAGiversary!   8804 Posts   Joined 13.3 Years Ago  

Posted 12 July 2008 - 11:45 PM

I wanted to know how many slots my mobo has that supports regular fans (not HSF)...the goal is to hoot the front and rear fan to the mobo so that i can control their speeds via desktop.

#58 TURBO   CAGiversary! CAGiversary!   363 Posts   Joined 11.7 Years Ago  

Posted 13 July 2008 - 12:09 AM

i was talking about case fans. it could be 2.

look at the board:
http://www.elitebast...board_front.jpg

#59 SynGamer   Daydreamer & Dilettante. Rated M for Mature. CAGiversary!   8804 Posts   Joined 13.3 Years Ago  

Posted 13 July 2008 - 01:07 AM

i was talking about case fans. it could be 2.

look at the board:
http://www.elitebast...board_front.jpg

My thread...hence why i'm asking about MY motherboard.

#60 TURBO   CAGiversary! CAGiversary!   363 Posts   Joined 11.7 Years Ago  

Posted 13 July 2008 - 01:16 AM

My thread...hence why i'm asking about MY motherboard.

You already bought the motherboard? Because like i said, the deal i listed is the same mobo, just the Pro version. which is better. better version of same mobo (w/ crossfire) & $10 less to boot. but whatever. if you want to go w/ the standard model & pay more, go for it. they both have the same 2 case fan connectors if you look at the boards.