CHeapest new car prices

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I thought a kia would be the cheapest car you can buy

Last i looked a automatic was like 12,000

So i went into the shop today and was sort of shocked the min price is now 17,000 bucks


anyone know of a good Automatic New car that is cheap or is 17k the bottom of the barrel
 
We just got a dodge caliber rughly 6 months ago. That was around 18k. 0% financing fr 6 years. This was at the Kolosso in Appleton.
 
hmmmm, if I remember correctly if you want to buy a car for cheap it's best if you go the last Sunday of the month if you're buying used or slightly used car, at that point they should be more than willing to haggle alittle to sell some cars, but if you're buying new I can't really help in that area, I would just look for something that will give me the most in the long haul, mileage and life span and what not, i wouldnt really look for the cheapest car because they are cheap for a reason but if the standards of the car you picked is what u want then by all means go for it, u should also take in consideration of the state tax, sometimes it might be cheaper to go over state lines to save a few hundred dollars
 
If you can hold out OP, try waiting closer to the end of the year when they are trying to get rid of this years models to make room for next years. I would say 17k is pretty low, but I too thought new Kia's were like 13k. Weird.
 
[quote name='slidecage']I thought a kia would be the cheapest car you can buy

Last i looked a automatic was like 12,000

So i went into the shop today and was sort of shocked the min price is now 17,000 bucks


anyone know of a good Automatic New car that is cheap or is 17k the bottom of the barrel[/QUOTE]
Fuel efficient cars and used car prices have risen lately. More so with the used car market. Car dealers make most of their profit off used cars that are traded in but people aren't trading cars in every 4 or 5 years like they used to. My Focus has actually went up in trade in value about 1500 bucks in the last 6 months. I agree with the wait until December unless a car you have to trade in is about to pass 75000 miles. This is the point where cars are considered high mileage and trade in for way less than if they had 74000 miles.
 
The problem now is that a lot of the imports (Asian) dealers are out of 2011 new cars and are not getting many new 2012s yet due to the earthquake/tsunami in Japan. You should check into Hyundai Accents, Mazda 2s, and even Ford Fiestas to see if they have any 2011s left. You aren't going to get an exceptional deal on one right now though.
 
Ford Fiestas are nice little cars (I've test driven a few), and base price for a sedan is around $13,000, or you could get a certified pre-owned for possibly cheaper, but with the same warranty/guarantee as the new one.
 
I don't mean to hijack the thread, but does anyone have any suggestions for an affordable SUV or minivan? We want something no older than 5 years and for no more than $12-$13K.

Also, does anyone know how much it costs to get a Kelley Blue Book? Or is it free? I tried using their site, but they don't list anything older than a couple of years on there and I can't call at the moment. I'm wondering if I can get a decent trade-in value for a 1990 Ford Tempo or if I should just try selling it. I'm leaning towards the latter, but I don't think anyone in this town would want to buy a car without A/C (we have triple-digit summers).
 
2012 Nissan Versa with automatic is $13,520 MSRP including destination fee. I imagine you'll have a hard time finding one at that price though, most dealers add on a bunch of option crap for profit.

Mazda might have some good incentives in the next month or two on 2011 models since they'll be getting the 2012s in soon. I bought a Mazda in October of last year and they were doing $3500 factory to dealer cash, so I got it at invoice price minus $3500. Which was about $5800 below MSRP. If you are interested in a Mazda wait till the beginning of Sept. or Oct. and see what the incentives are.

Just don't walk onto a dealership lot and deal with salespeople. Most dealers (including Nissan and Mazda) allow you to search their inventory online. Find the car you are interested in online and e-mail or call the internet sales manager and get their out the door price (including tax tag & title) for the VIN number of the car you want. If they ask when you are looking to buy, tell them TODAY if the price is right.
 
[quote name='redline']2012 Nissan Versa with automatic is $13,520 MSRP including destination fee. I imagine you'll have a hard time finding one at that price though, most dealers add on a bunch of option crap for profit.

Mazda might have some good incentives in the next month or two on 2011 models since they'll be getting the 2012s in soon. I bought a Mazda in October of last year and they were doing $3500 factory to dealer cash, so I got it at invoice price minus $3500. Which was about $5800 below MSRP. If you are interested in a Mazda wait till the beginning of Sept. or Oct. and see what the incentives are.

Just don't walk onto a dealership lot and deal with salespeople. Most dealers (including Nissan and Mazda) allow you to search their inventory online. Find the car you are interested in online and e-mail or call the internet sales manager and get their out the door price (including tax tag & title) for the VIN number of the car you want. If they ask when you are looking to buy, tell them TODAY if the price is right.[/QUOTE]

so what did you pay for it.... yea i think im going to try to keep driving my old car even though its down from 14mpg to 10 for at least the end of the month to see if they have any labor day sales end of aug...

most dealers i called said the 2011 cars are sold out nissan dumped their 2011 back in may for 11k :(

they said i could get a 2012 out the door for 13,700 + tax
 
[quote name='jbroush99']The problem now is that a lot of the imports (Asian) dealers are out of 2011 new cars and are not getting many new 2012s yet due to the earthquake/tsunami in Japan. You should check into Hyundai Accents, Mazda 2s, and even Ford Fiestas to see if they have any 2011s left. You aren't going to get an exceptional deal on one right now though.[/QUOTE]

This is your biggest issue right now OP. Plus, Kia and Hyundai have stepped up their game and offer much better value than any other company. This plus anything fuel efficient has jumped in price.

You might wanna consider a Ford. They've improved quite a bit and their cars are fairly cheap and easy to get a deal on.
 
I drive a Hyundai Accent, and I can't recommend it. Look into a Sonata/Elantra instead.

Coincidentally, I'm renting a Kia Optima. It's about $18k new, and it seems to perform very well.
 
A Fiat 500 starts at $15k, Scion XD/XB start around the same area(all manual). I got my 08 tC loaded at 17.5k out the door(stick).

Looking for new or used? SUV's/Crossovers/Trucks are really dirt cheap if your looking used, but gas may kill you.

There are attractive lease offers like the 11 Malibu(I own one, not to bad) for $179 a month/$1500 down, or the Cruze for $169/month with $1500 down.

I don't know about Ford's being cheap. They are going through a peak now where resale and pricing is relatively high. The Fiesta and Focus are being charged a premium, up like 2-3k over MSRP. Not sure if its an intentional shortage or they are just selling well.
 
Before I hijack - The dealer gave us a Toyota Yaris a few times last year while we had repairs done on our A/C.

That thing was bare bones, cheap as hell interior, about zero style - but so much fun. It was like a toy. A go kart, basically. Great starter-type car. Probably not as safe as my green '74 Ford LTD - but hey, they don't make 'em like they used to.

What I want is a motorcycle. I'm just looking for something relatively comfortable so I can tour the US someday. Since comfort is an issue - crotch rockets are out. Also, something on the cheap side would be nice. I could buy a Gold Wing but that would set my adventure back about ten years.

Anyone here knowledgeable about motorcycles? I'm wondering about the average cost of maintenance and repairs, too.
 
A lot of people I know are buying Kia's these days. They seem to be on the up and up. I was going to mention that the Hyundai Accent is pretty affordable and looks nice but the poster above said he owns one and doesn't recommend it
 
If you're still looking, why are you settled on getting a cheap, new car? Have you considered looking for something that's a couple years old, maybe a lease return (common since many people are defaulting on their payments, plus they're typically well maintained by the dealer). That way, you let somebody else take the new car depreciation hit and you get a better car for the money. I just picked up a '08 Acura TSX for $15k (a good deal after doing a lot of shopping around). Very happy with it, especially compared to the new cars I could get at that price.
 
[quote name='Vinny']Plus, Kia and Hyundai have stepped up their game and offer much better value than any other company. This plus anything fuel efficient has jumped in price.

You might wanna consider a Ford. They've improved quite a bit and their cars are fairly cheap and easy to get a deal on.[/QUOTE]

agreed. Kia/Hyundai are no longer budget cheapy quality cars but quality competitively priced cars now, somewhat reminiscent of 90's honda & toyota.

I also suggest looking into a Fiat 500 very good budget car around $15,000+
 
[quote name='vic_x51']agreed. Kia/Hyundai are no longer budget cheapy quality cars but quality competitively priced cars now, somewhat reminiscent of 90's honda & toyota.

I also suggest looking into a Fiat 500 very good budget car around $15,000+[/QUOTE]

Agreed. Hyundai has step up and improved the cars.
 
i believe the versa is the cheapest car. but at that price im not sure if you get A/C and a radio.

i'd agree with everyone else to save up for a kia
 
[quote name='yahoosale14']i believe the versa is the cheapest car. but at that price im not sure if you get A/C and a radio.

i'd agree with everyone else to save up for a kia[/QUOTE]

they give you a fan and one of those old 80s boom boxes.... that be funny as hell
 
My turn to hijack the thread. I was looking into getting a Hyundai Elantra 2011, but I've seen the price increase to about $17-20k lately. I was set on this car (drove a 2011, had many recommendations), but now it's a tad expensive. This would be my first car (I've been saving a LOT) and I'd just like some advice on a good, safe, high MPG starter car. I browsed this thread, but there is such a large variety I usually get lost in the options.

Also, I noticed that the 2011 Mitsubishi Lancers were in the 13k area. Is this worth looking into? Any previous buyers?
 
[quote name='Devil May Cry']My turn to hijack the thread. I was looking into getting a Hyundai Elantra 2011, but I've seen the price increase to about $17-20k lately. I was set on this car (drove a 2011, had many recommendations), but now it's a tad expensive. This would be my first car (I've been saving a LOT) and I'd just like some advice on a good, safe, high MPG starter car. I browsed this thread, but there is such a large variety I usually get lost in the options.

Also, I noticed that the 2011 Mitsubishi Lancers were in the 13k area. Is this worth looking into? Any previous buyers?[/QUOTE]

We paid $14k for our 2008 Accent, so $17k for an Elantra sounds right. When we were shopping, a 2008 Civic was about $17k base, and Accords were about $18-19k. I was surprised, cause my parents bought 3 Civics over the course of 11 years, and they were much less than Accords. But since price of gas went up, cars with better fuel economy went up as well. My car, despite being 3.5+ years old now, is still worth over $10k for this reason.

According to Consumer Reports though, the Jetta and the Civic were the last two spots on the list of cars they tested recently, so I'd be weary of those.

And honestly, I regret not paying $3k more for something significantly better than my Accent, so if you can afford it, I'd still go with the Elantra.
 
I might just do that. One last question? Is there anywhere I can find out how to not get totally get screwed over by the saleperson? Maybe even save some money too? I don't want to walk in there unprepared and end up in the hold because of it.
 
[quote name='Devil May Cry']I might just do that. One last question? Is there anywhere I can find out how to not get totally get screwed over by the saleperson? Maybe even save some money too? I don't want to walk in there unprepared and end up in the hold because of it.[/QUOTE]

http://www.edmunds.com/

Don't pay more than $500 above invoice for the car (their invoice, not the shit on the window).
 
[quote name='Devil May Cry']My turn to hijack the thread. I was looking into getting a Hyundai Elantra 2011, but I've seen the price increase to about $17-20k lately. I was set on this car (drove a 2011, had many recommendations), but now it's a tad expensive. This would be my first car (I've been saving a LOT) and I'd just like some advice on a good, safe, high MPG starter car. I browsed this thread, but there is such a large variety I usually get lost in the options.

Also, I noticed that the 2011 Mitsubishi Lancers were in the 13k area. Is this worth looking into? Any previous buyers?[/QUOTE]

Corolla dawg. Slow as crap, but will get over 30 mpg all day. Probably can get a new one for $15-16.

Dont waste your money on mitsubishi unless your getting an evo, but there go the mpgs and it's also overpriced.
 
Yea 10-12 years ago Korean cars were considered crap but no more. And those things will run forever. I spent a year in Korea and a lot of military would get cheap cars to just use for the year they were there and then pass it off to their replacement. There were some beat up ugly cars but those things ran like you wouldn't believe and a lot of them were 20 years old.

It really opened my eyes to Korean cars
 
Didn't read this whole thread but don't buy a new car. Why waste all the money when the value will drop quicker than you can make payments. Unless you have extra money to just blow, I suggest looking for a good used car. If you've got enough money but a rather new one, only around two years old or so, you should be able to get a great deal since the depreciation on the car has already lost the most it will at the quickest rate it will. I believe a car loses most of it's value over the first 2 years.
 
[quote name='Devil May Cry']I might just do that. One last question? Is there anywhere I can find out how to not get totally get screwed over by the saleperson? Maybe even save some money too? I don't want to walk in there unprepared and end up in the hold because of it.[/QUOTE]

Hate to say this, but there was a good thread about car buying on either slickdeals or fatwallet.

One of the things I didn't know was that the manufacturer pays the dealers a bonus if they sell the new models within a certain time frame. You can use that to your advantage, but you said you were buying a 2011, so that probably won't help you at all.
 
[quote name='fatboyjam']If you're still looking, why are you settled on getting a cheap, new car? Have you considered looking for something that's a couple years old, maybe a lease return (common since many people are defaulting on their payments, plus they're typically well maintained by the dealer). That way, you let somebody else take the new car depreciation hit and you get a better car for the money. I just picked up a '08 Acura TSX for $15k (a good deal after doing a lot of shopping around). Very happy with it, especially compared to the new cars I could get at that price.[/QUOTE]

I can't tell you how much I agree with this. I feel like if you take your time and use all the tools available to you (especially the internet) you can find some really great deals. The biggest asset IMO is to simply not be in a hurry.

Personally, I saw my old car starting to die out mid last year and started shopping around online. I decided my budget, and also that I would go wherever I needed to get the absolute best deal possible, even if it was far away. I ended up flying to Phoenix AZ (from San Francisco CA) and buying a 2002 Mazda Protege5 for $9200. The car was in almost new condition with only 10k miles on it. Overall, best purchase of my life especially being my first ever car buying experience. My biggest asset though wad waiting for the right car to present itself and not rushing into something that was a subpar deal.
 
[quote name='slidecage']I thought a kia would be the cheapest car you can buy

Last i looked a automatic was like 12,000

So i went into the shop today and was sort of shocked the min price is now 17,000 bucks


anyone know of a good Automatic New car that is cheap or is 17k the bottom of the barrel[/QUOTE]


First off, the thing you should think about is leasing. You should never try to "own" something that will continually depreciate in value, it makes no sense. If you can't lease then you have ZERO business buying brand new. Your best bet is to find a car that has maybe 5000 miles or less on it, usually these are dealership "demo" cars used by the managers or for special clients. Also, go shopping on a weekday, not a weekend, also aim for the end of the month. Most dealerships need to move cars and make quota by the end of the month so this will give you the advantage.

Also, never negotiate payment, ALWAYS negotiate bottom line, out the door price. Once that has been established you can start to negotiate term and interest rate, which will change around the payment. I sold cars for two years, made tons of money and hated every second of my life. One thing I did take from it though is how the industry works.
 
[quote name='Ash Burton']First off, the thing you should think about is leasing. You should never try to "own" something that will continually depreciate in value, it makes no sense. If you can't lease then you have ZERO business buying brand new. Your best bet is to find a car that has maybe 5000 miles or less on it, usually these are dealership "demo" cars used by the managers or for special clients. Also, go shopping on a weekday, not a weekend, also aim for the end of the month. Most dealerships need to move cars and make quota by the end of the month so this will give you the advantage.

Also, never negotiate payment, ALWAYS negotiate bottom line, out the door price. Once that has been established you can start to negotiate term and interest rate, which will change around the payment. I sold cars for two years, made tons of money and hated every second of my life. One thing I did take from it though is how the industry works.[/QUOTE]

You couldn't be more wrong. Don't ever lease a car unless you can write it all off when you do your taxes. Leasing a car is nothing more than renting it, yet your loan is for the car's full value - you're just paying for it to depreciate. Also, you can't really negotiate the interest rate. Interest rate is based off of the total loan amount and your credit. You have very little wiggle room there. You basically figure $200/month for everything $10,000 borrowed. The monthly payment will change accordingly based on credit. You didn't learn a whole from the industry if those are your words of wisdom.
 
[quote name='crushtopher']You couldn't be more wrong. Don't ever lease a car unless you can write it all off when you do your taxes. Leasing a car is nothing more than renting it, yet your loan is for the car's full value - you're just paying for it to depreciate. Also, you can't really negotiate the interest rate. Interest rate is based off of the total loan amount and your credit. You have very little wiggle room there. You basically figure $200/month for everything $10,000 borrowed. The monthly payment will change accordingly based on credit. You didn't learn a whole from the industry if those are your words of wisdom.[/QUOTE]

It kinda depends. Leasing suck for most people, but they're better than buying for some. if you are planning to buy a car every few years, leasing comes out ahead, big time. If you are planning to keep the same car for a decade, then buying comes out ahead. It really depends on your lifestyle. Unless you're paying cash for your purchase.

For example, if I were to have leased my Accent for 3.5 years vs buying it and trading it in after 3.5 years, I would have paid less total. Not by a whole lot (less than $500), but leasing in that case would have been cheaper.

Leasing, for the majority of people, is crappier. But not always.
 
my old 1995 buick park ave blew up on monday so i had to run out and buy

1998 olds cutluss for 1895 with 142000 miles on it... some rust on the body.. hopefully this last me though winter or longer and will be able to pick up a new car next spring or get a very good deal on a close out
 
[quote name='crushtopher']You couldn't be more wrong. Don't ever lease a car unless you can write it all off when you do your taxes. Leasing a car is nothing more than renting it, yet your loan is for the car's full value - you're just paying for it to depreciate. Also, you can't really negotiate the interest rate. Interest rate is based off of the total loan amount and your credit. You have very little wiggle room there. You basically figure $200/month for everything $10,000 borrowed. The monthly payment will change accordingly based on credit. You didn't learn a whole from the industry if those are your words of wisdom.[/QUOTE]

FALSE. Look, first thing I noticed working for Audi is that not a single manager or even the owner of the dealership "owned" a car. They all leased. Before you start flaming me settle down and learn something. Have you ever worked finance? Leasing is not for the cars full value you clown, wow you are hilarious. It is based off the predicted depreciation subtracted from the current price. Also, you are covered under warranty the entire lease on most cars so there will be no repair bills. Leasing works great for me because I get a new car every three years and never worry about repairs or being upside down.

The point of negotiated price first then interest and payment was made because most dealerships will negotiate on payment with you, as to disguise the true cost of the car. If you had any common sense other than what you read on some cars.com forum you could have figured that out. They add a point or two to the interest to make a profit, and they will drop it off to negotiate price point, so there is actually room to negotiate. Anyways, if you don't like my advice, ignore it. Don't be a pretentious ass-hat, nobody likes that.
 
[quote name='Ash Burton']FALSE. Look, first thing I noticed working for Audi is that not a single manager or even the owner of the dealership "owned" a car. They all leased. Before you start flaming me settle down and learn something. Have you ever worked finance? Leasing is not for the cars full value you clown, wow you are hilarious. It is based off the predicted depreciation subtracted from the current price. Also, you are covered under warranty the entire lease on most cars so there will be no repair bills. Leasing works great for me because I get a new car every three years and never worry about repairs or being upside down.

The point of negotiated price first then interest and payment was made because most dealerships will negotiate on payment with you, as to disguise the true cost of the car. If you had any common sense other than what you read on some cars.com forum you could have figured that out. They add a point or two to the interest to make a profit, and they will drop it off to negotiate price point, so there is actually room to negotiate. Anyways, if you don't like my advice, ignore it. Don't be a pretentious ass-hat, nobody likes that.[/QUOTE]

The problem with leasing is just like renting a house. You will never own it and you will always have payments. Wouldn't you rather have a paid off vehicle you can drive for 10 or 15 years, maybe longer, with regular maintenance and upkeep costs being much less than lease payments?

The average interest rate of a leased vehicle is 14%. I'll use Dave Ramsey's example. If you lease a car with a value of $22,000 for 3 years when you turn it in it will be worth roughly $10,000. (A new car loses roughly 60% of it's value over 3-4 years). That's a $12,000 loss in value, the dealership and the manufacturer sure isn't going to be taking that $12,000 loss, the person leasing the car is paying that in rental & interest payments. Also if you by chance go over the miles allotted your paying a per cent mile charge on top of your payments.

Also buying vs leasing vs owning, let me give you this stat. Average car payment in the United States is $495 a month for 64 months. If you invest $495 per month for 40 years (Many people always carry a car payment or a lease payment as you are) and can find a good mutual fund around a 12% average (12% mutual fund averages can still be found, that's the 80-year stock market average) after those 40 years you'll have $5,881,799.14 worth of mutual fund. Obviously your not always going to hit a 12% return but still you get the idea. Would you rather carry lease payments for the rest of your life or have some money you can retire on instead of depending on the government like many people do...

Just some food for thought, not trying to tell you what to do, if you like new cars and you want to lease to keep getting new cars and don't mind the payment, then by all means spend your money as you wish and enjoy your life, you only get one.
 
I agree completely with you argument. However, the fact is the majority of Americans don't own cars for 10 to 15 years at a time. If you are of that rare breed then of course buying makes the most sense. If you enjoy a new car with warranty every 4 to 5 years like I do, then the fact remains you are gonna have a car payment. So why not just rent and turn it in when the value (low miles and warranty) have been all used up. It makes more sense than trading in an upside down car every 3 to 4 years. Also there is no interest on a lease, it is called a money factor, and it is far less than 14%.
 
Some leases have favorable terms (cap cost, residual value, money factor) where you can actually come out ahead vs. buying a car and selling it after the same amount of time. So there are cases where you'd be better off leasing than buying. If you keep your cars more than 4 or 5 years, leasing probably isn't for you. If you drive a lot (>12,000 miles per year) then leasing probably isn't for you. But if you are always buying a new car every 3-4 years, definitely consider leasing.
 
well my cousin went out to buy a car it was in the paper.. 199 per month YOU OWN IT...

199 for 6 years was around 14K what is sort of werid since the car cost around 22k to buy outright ...

person was sign here here and here you dont have to read it.. but my cousin did and it pissed them off...


On the last page it said in very small letters This is a lease ... even though on the first page is says 199 YOU OWN THE CAR


they refuse to allow them to take the paper work with them but they are reporting them to the BBB

now how is this even legal
 
You may want to forgo buying brand new, and look for something a year or two old.

Back in May '09 , I bought my 2008 Jeep Patriot. It was a year old and only had 11k miles. Cosmetically, it had been in a small wreck, and the front passenger fender was replaced (and is slightly mismatched, but only in certain light). I had it checked out and everything else was perfect. The dealer priced it at just under $10,000, while KBB priced it, in this condition, at $14,000-15,000. A bargain for a vehicle that may as well have been new, and still had 24/25,000 left on the warranty. I've had a few issues with it, but nothing different from known issues with this model, all warranty covered.

Keep in mind, this Patriot is as base is it gets, manual transmission, no power anything. But it MSRP the year before was around $16,500.

My point? Sometimes, even with incentives, new isn't always the best option. Be persistent, check dealers online inventories, cruise the lots. While the odds of finding a deal like mine are fairly slim, you may just get lucky.
 
[quote name='Ash Burton'] Also there is no interest on a lease, it is called a money factor, and it is far less than 14%.[/QUOTE]

Sorry, rent charge. Pretty much the same thing, just in different wording.
 
was thinking about getting a subaru impreza base model with automatic and power everything my local dealer have 4 2011 model at less than $17k plus tax and fee
 
[quote name='Ash Burton']FALSE. Look, first thing I noticed working for Audi is that not a single manager or even the owner of the dealership "owned" a car. They all leased. Before you start flaming me settle down and learn something. Have you ever worked finance? Leasing is not for the cars full value you clown, wow you are hilarious. It is based off the predicted depreciation subtracted from the current price. Also, you are covered under warranty the entire lease on most cars so there will be no repair bills. Leasing works great for me because I get a new car every three years and never worry about repairs or being upside down.

The point of negotiated price first then interest and payment was made because most dealerships will negotiate on payment with you, as to disguise the true cost of the car. If you had any common sense other than what you read on some cars.com forum you could have figured that out. They add a point or two to the interest to make a profit, and they will drop it off to negotiate price point, so there is actually room to negotiate. Anyways, if you don't like my advice, ignore it. Don't be a pretentious ass-hat, nobody likes that.[/QUOTE]

FALSE. I never said you lease for the full value, but the bank that supplies the loan assumes your overall loan is for the car's full value. The bank won't let a car go off the lot if it's not considered paid for in one way or another. You don't drive a car off the lot simply because you're expected to pay for the depreciation. Hence, when I leased a car I had on my credit report for $31,295 instead of the $16,598 that was for depreciation. And when I got rid of the car I had on my credit report that I paid off a car valued at $31, 295 and not the $16, 598 depreciation value. Most car dealers/salesmen lease a car because it gives off the image of success. If you have a new car every year or two it portrays that you're wealthy and successful and will boost sales.

If you want to lease a car, then do it. You'll pay a decent amount up front, usually, and then are paying to rent the car. After your lease is up, you send it back and have no trade-in value or anything to show for it. If you want to own a car for a while, don't lease. Also, in regards to APR you don't have control over it. Don't you pay attention to the commercials that advertise a certain % yet say "OAC" (on approved credit)? Which means if you're credit isn't approved you don't get the advertised rate. Therefore, you don't have much control over your interest rate. Like I said, credit counts in this aspect and if a dealer claims they can knock a point off, then they were ripping you off to being with. I got my % dropped .5% simply by having automatic deduction and another 2.9% by re-financing through a credit union after 6 months. I had no control over the rate - that's up to my credit report and history.

Have I worked in finance? Nope. But I've worked at car dealership for almost a decade in areas from lot attendants to salesman and I've also bought or leased over 12 cars - so I've learned a thing or two.

Also, it's not "anyways." There is no "s" at the end of that word. I'm not going to take advice from someone who makes such a common mistake. There, now you can call me a pretentious asshat but I do know a great deal about how the car industry works.
 
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