I suggest getting a decent guitar. Used is OK. That way if you decide it's not for you, you can get most of your $ back reselling it.
Reasons why you shouldn't start with a cheap/starter guitar:
- Resale value for a crappy/starter guitar is low.
- It will sound like crap and you will think learning to play is no fun when you sound like crap
- Higher cost when you upgrade your guitar. If you buy a decent one to start with, then you won't have to deal with the money lost in selling/trading in your crappy axe
I started on a POS guitar with a neck thicker than most basses. The only good that came out of it was I was able to develop strong fingers that enabled me to do fast/amazing playing when I upgraded to a good guitar.
Even though you can customize your guitar and upgrade its sound via pickup installation, you cannot change the guitar's inherit sound it gets from the resonance produced by the guitar's body. That's why choosing a guitar made of nice wood is important, since a kickass set of pickups will still sound weak sauce when installed in a guitar with body made out of cheap/bad wood with poor resonance qualities.
I highly recommend you check out your friends' guitars and get a feel of what you like and what you don't like in a guitar instead of making your choice solely based on brand and price. Go to your local instrument stores and test them out good. Don't let the store clerks and store patrons talk you into buying any guitar during your road test excursions.
A few things you need to look out for when buying used guitars:
- plug it in an amp and make sure all the electronics are working: do all the pickups work (switch the toggle selector in all positions and see if any of them fail to produce sound when you play a chord)? Do you hear radio signal coming through the amp (indicative of faulty pickup installation)? Does the amp cord plug into the guitar's jack in a snug fit without intermittent signal problems (a loose jack can usually be easily repaired/replaced, though)?
- check that all of the tuning pegs work. This is easily repaired, but why buy one that has broken pegs when they should have repaired it for you first
- check the action (distance between the strings and the fretboard. Most people prefer low action (short distance between the strings and the fretboard). High action makes a guitar harder to play, and may be indicative of problems with the neck or the guitar's setup
- if you are buying a guitar with a locking tremolo system, tune the guitar up, play with the whammy bar for a bit and check to see if the strings get out of tune. If they do, that may mean the locking system is faulty
- check the neck for signs of warping. If it appears straight, play with the whammy bar and see if you hear any noise from the release of tension between the neck and the truss rod (the metal stick inside the neck that keeps it straight)
- check the body for any signs of breakage. Do NOT buy a guitar that has significant tear or damage anywhere on its body or neck (even if they have been repaired) if you are buying it to play it. Minor surface scratches are OK, use that to your advantage and bargain the price down
Lastly, my 2 cents on brands... I love Ibanez guitars, but if you do consider buying an Ibanez, try and resist buying the ones with ultra-thin necks. They don't last and eventually end up warping. Get one with a decent thickness on the neck. I bought a JEM about 10 years ago, its neck is nearly twice as thick as the Ibanez Roadstar, which I had at the time, but the JEM is still going strong. I had problems with the Roadstar's neck and ended up getting rid of it.
If you got the $$$, consider buying a guitar with graphite neck - it'll not warp and should last you a lifetime.
As for pickups, I love EMG's active pickups. They are great for both crunchy riffs and nasty sounding leads. The only downside is they use batteries so you need to replace them regularly. EMG also makes passive pickups (no batteries required), but I don't know how good they sound personally.