Should I fix my fat 60GB PS3
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WarlordPayne
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If it's a YLOD then it'll just die again eventually, the repairs are always temporary. I'd see what Gamestop would be willing to give you for a busted 60gig, I'm pretty sure they've still got the double hardware trade in going.
projectblindside
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yeah if you're keeping it only for PS2 playback then I wouldn't bother. I found the best thing is to just get a last model PS2 slim for your old games. Plus you can soft mod pretty much any model PS2 with FreeMcBoot these days, that's reason enough to find a good working PS2.
Chances are most upcoming games are gonna have mandatory 2+ GB Install to even play, so the bigger the HDD the better.
Chances are most upcoming games are gonna have mandatory 2+ GB Install to even play, so the bigger the HDD the better.
[quote name='WarlordPayne']If it's a YLOD then it'll just die again eventually, the repairs are always temporary. I'd see what Gamestop would be willing to give you for a busted 60gig, I'm pretty sure they've still got the double hardware trade in going.[/QUOTE]
They take busted Ps3's? Might be time for me to get rid of my 40gb paper weight
They take busted Ps3's? Might be time for me to get rid of my 40gb paper weight
Yeah it has the YOLD and I just have it right next to my slim and as for playing ps2 games i still have my old slim ps2 and i was just kinda bored and wondering if i could fix it just for the hell of it. But since gamestop takes busted ps3 i'll look at them and see if its worth it for me to do a trade in.
pitfallharry219
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Any bonuses at GS don't apply to broken hardware.
S
starmask2k3
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easy fix then trade it to gamestop
[quote name='starmask2k3']easy fix then trade it to gamestop[/QUOTE]
Unless the employee checks the broken warranty seal, then you're SOL.
I don't know if Sony is still running that out-of-warranty program for old and busted PS3s for $100 to replace it with a Slim console, but worth checking out. I gambled with sending in my broken/self-repair-attempted fat PS3 and the accepted it without batting an eye. Sold it to a friend at-cost but you could turn a tiny profit on the open market.
edit: apologies if GS really does take broken hardware. That's a totally new policy for them if true.
Unless the employee checks the broken warranty seal, then you're SOL.
I don't know if Sony is still running that out-of-warranty program for old and busted PS3s for $100 to replace it with a Slim console, but worth checking out. I gambled with sending in my broken/self-repair-attempted fat PS3 and the accepted it without batting an eye. Sold it to a friend at-cost but you could turn a tiny profit on the open market.
edit: apologies if GS really does take broken hardware. That's a totally new policy for them if true.
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I'll just suggest following the same guide as I did since I had moderate success with it. Only thing I should have changed was use better quality thermal compound, so don't spare any expense in that area. Otherwise you'll end up having to open your console again to re-apply it every two weeks or so. Two recommended brands are Arctic Silver 5 and Coolermaster.
http://digiex.net/guides-reviews/co...yellow-light-death-ylod-fix-repair-guide.html
Other than following the video and .pdf steps exactly as they are given, my two biggest tips are:
1) Label everything that you disassemble or put them in clearly defined areas during disassembly. It's easy to lose or mis-identify parts and screws if you just lump them all together.
2) PATIENCE. This is really the key one. Go slow, don't rush. Exercise great care when handling the motherboard as there are some very fragile pieces attached to it. Take as much time to fully understand each step and you'll be fine. My first attempt took nearly 4 hours but each subsequent quick fix took less and less time.
Things you'll need are a heat gun (~$30 or use an oven, risky but cheaper), thermal compound ($5-10), flux/cleaner fluid ($5 or use iso alcohol, risky but cheaper), phillips head screwdriver(s) and torx screwdrivers ($5 each), and a clean, durable, level surface on which to work.
http://digiex.net/guides-reviews/co...yellow-light-death-ylod-fix-repair-guide.html
Other than following the video and .pdf steps exactly as they are given, my two biggest tips are:
1) Label everything that you disassemble or put them in clearly defined areas during disassembly. It's easy to lose or mis-identify parts and screws if you just lump them all together.
2) PATIENCE. This is really the key one. Go slow, don't rush. Exercise great care when handling the motherboard as there are some very fragile pieces attached to it. Take as much time to fully understand each step and you'll be fine. My first attempt took nearly 4 hours but each subsequent quick fix took less and less time.
Things you'll need are a heat gun (~$30 or use an oven, risky but cheaper), thermal compound ($5-10), flux/cleaner fluid ($5 or use iso alcohol, risky but cheaper), phillips head screwdriver(s) and torx screwdrivers ($5 each), and a clean, durable, level surface on which to work.
Last edited by a moderator:
[quote name='eLefAdEr']I'll just suggest following the same guide as I did since I had moderate success with it. Only thing I should have changed was use better quality thermal compound, so don't spare any expense in that area. Otherwise you'll end up having to open your console again to re-apply it every two weeks or so. Two recommended brands are Arctic Silver 5 and Coolermaster.
http://digiex.net/guides-reviews/co...yellow-light-death-ylod-fix-repair-guide.html
Other than following the video and .pdf steps exactly as they are given, my two biggest tips are:
1) Label everything that you disassemble or put them in clearly defined areas during disassembly. It's easy to lose or mis-identify parts and screws if you just lump them all together.
2) PATIENCE. This is really the key one. Go slow, don't rush. Exercise great care when handling the motherboard as there are some very fragile pieces attached to it. Take as much time to fully understand each step and you'll be fine. My first attempt took nearly 4 hours but each subsequent quick fix took less and less time.
Things you'll need are a heat gun (~$30 or use an oven, risky but cheaper), thermal compound ($5-10), flux/cleaner fluid ($5 or use iso alcohol, risky but cheaper), phillips head screwdriver(s) and torx screwdrivers ($5 each), and a clean, durable, level surface on which to work.[/QUOTE]
Thanks!!!
http://digiex.net/guides-reviews/co...yellow-light-death-ylod-fix-repair-guide.html
Other than following the video and .pdf steps exactly as they are given, my two biggest tips are:
1) Label everything that you disassemble or put them in clearly defined areas during disassembly. It's easy to lose or mis-identify parts and screws if you just lump them all together.
2) PATIENCE. This is really the key one. Go slow, don't rush. Exercise great care when handling the motherboard as there are some very fragile pieces attached to it. Take as much time to fully understand each step and you'll be fine. My first attempt took nearly 4 hours but each subsequent quick fix took less and less time.
Things you'll need are a heat gun (~$30 or use an oven, risky but cheaper), thermal compound ($5-10), flux/cleaner fluid ($5 or use iso alcohol, risky but cheaper), phillips head screwdriver(s) and torx screwdrivers ($5 each), and a clean, durable, level surface on which to work.[/QUOTE]
Thanks!!!
perfectmf1386
CAGiversary!
[quote name='Mad39er']Fix it if you are going to reball and upgrade the fans and such. If not, don't.[/QUOTE]
This.
I used a heat gun to repair my 60gb. It worked but only for about 3 months until it died again. I ended up buying a slim when GS was offering $140 trade in for 360s with coupon. And then held until they offered the 160gb for $200.
If you are hell bent on holding on to your 60gb and making it work I would recommend reballing it and putting it in a computer case and creating a great cooling system for it, just fans or liquid cooling, whatever. But if you do nothing it will die on you.
This.
I used a heat gun to repair my 60gb. It worked but only for about 3 months until it died again. I ended up buying a slim when GS was offering $140 trade in for 360s with coupon. And then held until they offered the 160gb for $200.
If you are hell bent on holding on to your 60gb and making it work I would recommend reballing it and putting it in a computer case and creating a great cooling system for it, just fans or liquid cooling, whatever. But if you do nothing it will die on you.
bread's done