The Ultimate 'Build-A-PC' Thread. Complete With Pricings & Recommendations (06/06/10)

[quote name='MiNuN']

What am I looking at when I am comparing the 2 recommended PSUs and the one on my rig?

[/QUOTE]

Brand and Amps. Ultra is known to be a lower quality brand, so its build quality is in question. I wouldn't trust plugging in $6000 of computer parts to a low quality PSU. Because if the PSU sparks, it can take out anything that connects to it. Corsair, Antec, Silverstone, PC Power & Cooling, and Seasonic are your best PSU brands.

Then comes Amps. For most people any PSU that can supply over 50A for the +12V rail (600W PSU) is sufficient for even higher end gaming rigs running a single video card. The PSUs over 1000W are designed for people who run quad SLI, quad-fire, and tri-fire with PhsyX setup. So these PSUs should be able to supply most, if not all, of their rated wattage to the video cards and CPU. The Antec 1200W can supply up to 100A during full load, the Silverstone 1500W at 110A, while the Ultra 1200W can do 85A max (85A * 12V = 1020W, not 1200W). The upcoming Corsair 1200W will be able to output 100A as well. If you can wait couple of weeks for the Corsair AX1200W to be released, I would definitely get it.

Antec TruePower 1200W review
Silverstone ST1500 1500W review
Corsair AX1200 1200W review
Ultra X4 1200W review

Again, out of the 4 PSUs in question, Corsair is the ultimate choice. Then Silverstone, then Antec, and way in the bottom is Ultra. You're probably going to get better performance and reliability out of the smaller Corsair TX950W than the Ultra 1200W.
 
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[quote name='spraypaintnink']Okay cool. You can always upgrade though eventually, right?[/QUOTE]

virtually all mobos that support the i3 also support i5 and i7, so yes.
 
@SOSTrooper

I am going to go with the Corsair AX1200 1200W. Too bad it is not out as current, but I do not mind waiting. I really enjoy the fact that it is 80-Plus-Gold.

Small problem JG bought up though, it is a Single +12V rail, so if I understand correctly, if something decides draw more power than it is suppose to, the rail will become too hot and start melting? Is this a issue for me even though I am not doing anything intense with the PC?

I am still looking at heat-sinks, would you say the one you recommended is really the best for LGA1366? Also could I get instructed on how I would attached the recommended fans to the recommended heat-sink?
 
[quote name='MiNuN']
I am still looking at heat-sinks, would you say the one you recommended is really the best for LGA1366? Also could I get instructed on how I would attached the recommended fans to the recommended heat-sink?[/QUOTE]

megahalems is the best air cooler. you could find instruction in the documentation the cooler ships with, its a simple installation.
 
Thank you paz9x.

I have decided to change my heat-sink to SOSTrooper's recommendations. Question, there is no performance drop if I get the Prolimatech Megahelems Rev.B correct?
 
As always, please look over my rig.

MiNuN's Monster 5 :bouncy:

Personal Computer build nicknamed 'MiNuN's Monster'

Goal: High-End Super Gaming; with the latest technology available to the public.

Specifications to work with;
6 X 240-pin (-3 used up by R.A.M.)
4 X PCI Express 2.0 x16 (x16/x16), (x8/x8/x16) or (x8/x8/x8/x8) (-1 x16 used up by Video Card) (-1 x16 used up by Sound Card)
2 X PCI Express X1
1 X PCI (-1 used up by Wireless Card)
8 X SATA 3 GB/s (-1 used up by 2TB HDD) (-1 used up by SSD)
2 X SATA 6 GB/s
1 X PATA ATA133 2 Dev. Max
2 X IEEE 1394A
3 X External 5.25" Drive Bays (-1 used up by DVD Drive)
6 X Internal 3.5" Drive Bays (-1 used up by 2TB HDD) (-1 used up by SSD)
8 X Rear Expansion Slots (-1 used up by Video Card) (-1 used up by Wireless Card) (-1 used up by Sound Card)
1 x Front eSata Port
1 x VGA
1 x DVI
1 X HDMI (-1 used up by Monitor)
1 X Display Port
1 X S/PDIF OUT Optical
1 X S/PDIF OUT Coaxial
1 x Front HD Audio Ports
6 X Rear HD 7.1 Audio Ports
4 X Monitor 2.0 USB Ports
4 X Front 2.0 USB Ports
4 X Rear 2.0 USB Ports (-1 used up by G19)
2 X Rear 3.0 USB Ports
2 X Keyboard 2.0 USB Ports (-1 used up by X8) (-1 used up by G35)
2 X eSATA/USB Combo Connectors
2 X PS/2
MoBo Power Pin = 24-Pin

Newegg.ca = $2,565.30, Tiger Direct = $43.98, NCIX = $3,130.99, Bewawa = $672.32, Canada Computers = $463.28, Others = $511.91. Total = $7,387.78, Left over = $2,612.22.
P.C. Case: Thermaltake Level 10 VL30001N1Z Black Aluminum ATX Super Full Tower Gaming Station Computer Case $893.53 (NCIX)
Mother Board: GIGABYTE GA-X58A-UD7 LGA 1366 Intel X58 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard $406.79 (CC)
Processor: Intel BX80613i7980X Core i7 980X Extreme Edition Processor $1,221.23 (Newegg)
Heatsink: Prolimatech Megahalems Rev.B CPU Cooler $73.49 (NCIX), 2 X Scythe GentleTyphoon D1225C12B5AP-15 120mm Case Fan $58.73 (Newegg)
R.A.M.: Patriot Gamer Series 12GB (3 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model PGS312G1600ELK $766.69 (Newegg)
Video Card: Diamond Radeon HD 5970 Video Card $793.78 (NCIX)
Hard-Disk Drive/Solid-State Drive: OCZ Vertex 2 OCZSSD2-2VTXE120G 2.5" 120GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive $433.91 (Newegg), WesternDigital RE4 WD2003FYYS 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive $323.17 (Bewawa)
Other Drives: Lite-On IHAS424-98 Internal DVD Writer $44.47 (NCIX)
Power Supply: Corsair AX1200 1200W $00.00 (TBD)

EXTRAS:
O.S.: Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit $203.39 (Bewawa)
Wireless Card: Sabrent 802.11n Wireless PCI Controller Card $43.98 (TD)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence ST PCI 7.1 Sound Card $237.28 (NCIX)
Security Software: VIPRE Antivirus Premium 3 Years $115.00 (Sunbelt)

PERIPHERALS:
Keyboard: Logitech G19 Gaming Keyboard $247.56 (NCIX)
Mouse: Microsoft 3HA-00001 SideWinder X8 Mouse $84.74 (Newegg)
Mouse surface: RAZER Megasoma Professional Gaming Mouse Mat $56.49 (CC) & RAZER Destructor Professional Gaming Mat $62.00 (NCIX)
Monitor: Dell SP2309W 23-inch Widescreen Flat Panel Monitor $396.91 (Dell)
Speakers: Creative GigaWorks S750 700 Watts 7.1 Speaker $574.61 (NCIX, shipping not included)
Headset: Logitech G35 Gaming Headphone $145.76 (Bewawa)
Printer: Brother MFC-795cw Inkjet AiO Printer Wireless $204.27 (NCIX)
 
[quote name='RAMSTORIA']virtually all mobos that support the i3 also support i5 and i7, so yes.[/QUOTE]

Depends on what processor you will be upgrading to.

If your i3 processor is a 1156 type, you can upgrade to all i5 and some i7.

Most newer i7s are 1366, which not all 1156 mobos can support. So if you want to upgrade, make sure you get the right socket.
 
[quote name='MiNuN']As always, please look over my rig.

MiNuN's Monster 5 :bouncy:

Personal Computer build nicknamed 'MiNuN's Monster'

Goal: High-End Super Gaming; with the latest technology available to the public.

Specifications to work with;
6 X 240-pin (-3 used up by R.A.M.)
4 X PCI Express 2.0 x16 (x16/x16), (x8/x8/x16) or (x8/x8/x8/x8) (-1 x16 used up by Video Card) (-1 x16 used up by Sound Card)
2 X PCI Express X1
1 X PCI (-1 used up by Wireless Card)
8 X SATA 3 GB/s (-1 used up by 2TB HDD) (-1 used up by SSD)
2 X SATA 6 GB/s
1 X PATA ATA133 2 Dev. Max
2 X IEEE 1394A
3 X External 5.25" Drive Bays (-1 used up by DVD Drive)
6 X Internal 3.5" Drive Bays (-1 used up by 2TB HDD) (-1 used up by SSD)
8 X Rear Expansion Slots (-1 used up by Video Card) (-1 used up by Wireless Card) (-1 used up by Sound Card)
1 x Front eSata Port
1 x VGA
1 x DVI
1 X HDMI (-1 used up by Monitor)
1 X Display Port
1 X S/PDIF OUT Optical
1 X S/PDIF OUT Coaxial
1 x Front HD Audio Ports
6 X Rear HD 7.1 Audio Ports
4 X Monitor 2.0 USB Ports
4 X Front 2.0 USB Ports
4 X Rear 2.0 USB Ports (-1 used up by G19)
2 X Rear 3.0 USB Ports
2 X Keyboard 2.0 USB Ports (-1 used up by X8) (-1 used up by G35)
2 X eSATA/USB Combo Connectors
2 X PS/2
MoBo Power Pin = 24-Pin

Newegg.ca = $2,565.30, Tiger Direct = $43.98, NCIX = $3,130.99, Bewawa = $672.32, Canada Computers = $463.28, Others = $511.91. Total = $7,387.78, Left over = $2,612.22.
P.C. Case: Thermaltake Level 10 VL30001N1Z Black Aluminum ATX Super Full Tower Gaming Station Computer Case $893.53 (NCIX)
Mother Board: GIGABYTE GA-X58A-UD7 LGA 1366 Intel X58 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard $406.79 (CC)
Processor: Intel BX80613i7980X Core i7 980X Extreme Edition Processor $1,221.23 (Newegg)
Heatsink: Prolimatech Megahalems Rev.B CPU Cooler $73.49 (NCIX), 2 X Scythe GentleTyphoon D1225C12B5AP-15 120mm Case Fan $58.73 (Newegg)
R.A.M.: Patriot Gamer Series 12GB (3 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model PGS312G1600ELK $766.69 (Newegg)
Video Card: Diamond Radeon HD 5970 Video Card $793.78 (NCIX)
Hard-Disk Drive/Solid-State Drive: OCZ Vertex 2 OCZSSD2-2VTXE120G 2.5" 120GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive $433.91 (Newegg), WesternDigital RE4 WD2003FYYS 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive $323.17 (Bewawa)
Other Drives: Lite-On IHAS424-98 Internal DVD Writer $44.47 (NCIX)
Power Supply: Corsair AX1200 1200W $00.00 (TBD)

EXTRAS:
O.S.: Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit $203.39 (Bewawa)
Wireless Card: Sabrent 802.11n Wireless PCI Controller Card $43.98 (TD)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar Essence ST PCI 7.1 Sound Card $237.28 (NCIX)
Security Software: VIPRE Antivirus Premium 3 Years $115.00 (Sunbelt)

PERIPHERALS:
Keyboard: Logitech G19 Gaming Keyboard $247.56 (NCIX)
Mouse: Microsoft 3HA-00001 SideWinder X8 Mouse $84.74 (Newegg)
Mouse surface: RAZER Megasoma Professional Gaming Mouse Mat $56.49 (CC) & RAZER Destructor Professional Gaming Mat $62.00 (NCIX)
Monitor: Dell SP2309W 23-inch Widescreen Flat Panel Monitor $396.91 (Dell)
Speakers: Creative GigaWorks S750 700 Watts 7.1 Speaker $574.61 (NCIX, shipping not included)
Headset: Logitech G35 Gaming Headphone $145.76 (Bewawa)
Printer: Brother MFC-795cw Inkjet AiO Printer Wireless $204.27 (NCIX)
[/QUOTE]

You are only missing some Artic Silver 5. :) Everything looks great. You owe us pictures when you've finished your build.
 
[quote name='MiNuN']Thank you paz9x.

I have decided to change my heat-sink to SOSTrooper's recommendations. Question, there is no performance drop if I get the Prolimatech Megahelems Rev.B correct?[/QUOTE]

the previous version megahalems isnt made anymore afaik.
 
[quote name='SOSTrooper']You are only missing some Artic Silver 5. :) Everything looks great. You owe us pictures when you've finished your build.[/QUOTE]

Ive only used as5 up until i had some shin etsu on a cooler im currently using.
I was going to wipe it off and apply as5 but I read a lot about as5 not being as good (3-5 degrees difference) in comparison.

do you have any opinion on it?

for normal use i would probably use whatever is on hand. im trying to work a moderate OC and every degree would be beneficial.
 
Alright. I just want to say thanks a lot guys. I will start purchasing and building this rig, all of this will be on my weekly blog entries.

I believe this will take about a month's time to complete as I read the manuals, understanding the parts etc...I also work full-time so I can not really have the hours I want to build the PC as I gather the products. Waiting for the Corsair AX1200 to come out in another factor of that waiting time.

Look forward to it! I will keep you guys posted with pictures when I can! =)
 
[quote name='paz9x']Ive only used as5 up until i had some shin etsu on a cooler im currently using.
I was going to wipe it off and apply as5 but I read a lot about as5 not being as good (3-5 degrees difference) in comparison.

do you have any opinion on it?

for normal use i would probably use whatever is on hand. im trying to work a moderate OC and every degree would be beneficial.[/QUOTE]

As far as every degree counts, I primarily use AS5, but there's too many factors to account for when it comes to every degree counts. Sometimes, you might see pre-applied stuff work better, sometimes you'll get AS5 being run of the mill, and other times AS5 will crush everything else in performance (like all other competitors).

I like it, I'd recommend it, but it's really splitting hairs.
 
AS5 is really the most cost efficient thermal compound. It's easy to use, cheap, and no need for maintenance for at least a couple of years. But when you're looking at the top 10 thermal compounds, they're all within 2 degrees of each other, when testing on OC'ed CPU on full load.

30 or so Thermal Compounds compared.

44 Thermal Compound compared

Pick any in the top 10 and you'll do fine. It's really not worth the time contemplating which one is really better.
 
[quote name='SOSTrooper']AS5 is really the most cost efficient thermal compound. It's easy to use, cheap, and no need for maintenance for at least a couple of years. But when you're looking at the top 10 thermal compounds, they're all within 2 degrees of each other, when testing on OC'ed CPU on full load.

30 or so Thermal Compounds compared.

44 Thermal Compound compared

Pick any in the top 10 and you'll do fine. It's really not worth the time contemplating which one is really better.[/QUOTE]

I appreciate the opinion. It probably has to do as much with the installation.
I keep as5 on hand, it seems a bit thicker and easier to anticipate the spread versus the thinner tims.
 
Yeah it also depends on the heatsink you're using the thermal compound with too. Combining different heatsinks and different thermal compounds will produce different results as well. Even the method you use to apply the thermal compound will produce different results. That's why you never see 2 reviews that will produce the same descending list of best thermal compounds. But rest assure AS5, Shin Etsu, Liquid Silver, and a few others are all best buys.
 
Been so long since I've built a new rig (3 years to be exact). Finally decided to pull the trigger and sell my old parts. Here are the goods:

Existing Components:

Thermaltake Armor w/25cm Side Fan
Creative X-Fi XtremeGamer
Western Digital 750GB Caviar SE16

Old Build (all stock):

Core 2 Duo E6600 (previously overclocked to 3GHz @ 1:1 sync)
Corsair HX620W
EVGA 680i SLI AR
Corsair Dominator 2GB DDR2-800 (4-4-4-12)
EVGA 8800 GTX
Western Digital 150GB Raptor

New Build:

Core i7 860
Corsair HX650W
ASUS P7P55D-E Pro
Corsair XMS3 4GB DDR3-1333 (8-8-8-24)
Sapphire Radeon HD 5850
Western Digital 300GB VelociRaptor
Western Digital 1TB Caviar Black

Suffice it to say, I can't wait until I get off from work tomorrow. I'm really looking forward to putting this baby through her paces. I welcome any comments/questions :)

To the OP: there's a typo. The i7 Lynnfield is clocked at 2.8GHz. The post has 2.66GHz.
 
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[quote name='spraypaintnink']Okay the specs for the geforce gtx 465 say I need a PCI express or 2.0 compliant motherboard.
My secs are below. Please tell me I'll be able to use my graphic card. I really can't find info on it and I'm a comp noob. I don't want to open it until I'm sure it'll work or not.


http://reviews.cnet.com/desktops/gateway-dx4831-01e/4507-3118_7-33964710.html

EDIT: I think I'm good.[/QUOTE]

.

I think you are good to go. The GTX 465 is 9.5" long, and it looks like you'll have enough room. And since you did say you bought a 600W Cooler Master PSU, then you're good to go in that department as well. All motherboards that run on LGA1156 are PCI-Express X16 2.0. I think that's a 3 green lights for you :)

[quote name='Ardrid']

Suffice it to say, I can't wait until I get off from work tomorrow. I'm really looking forward to putting this baby through her paces. I welcome any comments/questions :)

To the OP: there's a typo. The i7 Lynnfield is clocked at 2.8GHz. The post has 2.66GHz.[/QUOTE]

.

Thanks, typo is fixed. Your build looks good, other than that I often preach to people not to get the WD VelociRaptor 150/300GB because their performance is only subpar at best for their cost. If you want VR you should opt for the new 600GB version (it is about 25% faster than the 300GB version, and the VR 300GB is slower than the 2TB Black). The VR 300GB has to retire and should not be in anyone's new build. But of course, if you have already bought it, then you should enjoy it. Otherwise, since you already have a 1TB on the side as your secondary, I would, for the same cost as the VR 300GB, go for a much faster 64GB or 80GB SSD.
.
 
[quote name='SOSTrooper'].

I think you are good to go. The GTX 465 is 9.5" long, and it looks like you'll have enough room. And since you did say you bought a 600W Cooler Master PSU, then you're good to go in that department as well. All motherboards that run on LGA1156 are PCI-Express X16 2.0. I think that's a 3 green lights for you :)



.[/QUOTE]

You sir just made my day. I really appreciate your help during this process. :applause:
 
NewEgg had a nice looking combo in their email this morning for $340.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.406250
-G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2
-ASUS M4A785-M AM3/AM2+/AM2 AMD 785G HDMI Micro ATX AMD
-Seagate Barracud 750GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive
-AMD Athlon II X2 245 Regor 2.9GHz Socket AM3 65W Dual-Core
-Rosewill RV2-600 600 W ATX12V v2.2 / EPS12V SLI Ready Power Supply
-Rosewill R218-P-BK Black SECC Steel ATX Mid Tower
-LITE-ON 24X DVD Writer Black SATA

Thinking of ordering, good deal?
---

So far I have been getting by ok game-wise since 2003 on a refurb Dell Dimension 4600 (single cpu & AGP :cool:), but I can't keep putting off an upgrade forever.
 
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[quote name='KrizB']NewEgg had a nice looking combo in their email this morning for $340.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.406250
-G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2
-ASUS M4A785-M AM3/AM2+/AM2 AMD 785G HDMI Micro ATX AMD
-Seagate Barracud 750GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive
-AMD Athlon II X2 245 Regor 2.9GHz Socket AM3 65W Dual-Core
-Rosewill RV2-600 600 W ATX12V v2.2 / EPS12V SLI Ready Power Supply
-Rosewill R218-P-BK Black SECC Steel ATX Mid Tower
-LITE-ON 24X DVD Writer Black SATA

Thinking of ordering, good deal?
---

So far I have been getting by ok game-wise since 2003 on a refurb Dell Dimension 4600 (single cpu & AGP :cool:), but I can't keep putting off an upgrade forever.[/QUOTE]

pretty decent deal. you should be able to add a good video card and keep the total price under $500. i dont think you could do much better if you picked out each individual component, if at all.
 
Damn I love NewEgg.
Ordered around 11am yesterday, package is out for delivery this morning.

Totally forgot to order some thermal paste and Windows yesterday. Asked family members if they or anyone they knew could get a student discount. Nope.
So I was happy to see in this mornings email that NewEgg has Win 7 32bit for $89+FS with a promo code. Of course the AMD processor coming has 64 bit support so I guess I won't be saving $10 afterall. :lol:

---
edit; Found it at Walmart for $90, have a family member that works at Walmart, 10% off, yay!
 
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[quote name='KrizB']Damn I love NewEgg.
Ordered around 11am yesterday, package is out for delivery this morning.

Totally forgot to order some thermal paste and Windows yesterday. Asked family members if they or anyone they knew could get a student discount. Nope.
So I was happy to see in this mornings email that NewEgg has Win 7 32bit for $89+FS with a promo code. Of course the AMD processor coming has 64 bit support so I guess I won't be saving $10 afterall. :lol:[/QUOTE]

unless you plan on overclocking i wouldnt worry about the thermal paste.
 
[quote name='RAMSTORIA']unless you plan on overclocking i wouldnt worry about the thermal paste.[/QUOTE]

Thank you.

It has been years since I've seen/done more then swapping out a vid card or psu. Starting to read up on the building tutorials now.
 
[quote name='KrizB']Damn I love NewEgg.
Ordered around 11am yesterday, package is out for delivery this morning.

Totally forgot to order some thermal paste and Windows yesterday. Asked family members if they or anyone they knew could get a student discount. Nope.
So I was happy to see in this mornings email that NewEgg has Win 7 32bit for $89+FS with a promo code. Of course the AMD processor coming has 64 bit support so I guess I won't be saving $10 afterall. :lol:[/QUOTE]

You don't want to get the 32-bit Win 7. It still has a 4GB limit. Most of the time Win 7 32-bit will report 3.2GB usable RAM on any system with more than 4GB. Get the 64-bit instead, as it supports up to 16GB.
 
Yeah, going to install the 64 bit version.

Once UPS drops off my packages, and everything is in order, might head over to Walmart and pick up Win 7.
 
[quote name='SOSTrooper'].

Thanks, typo is fixed. Your build looks good, other than that I often preach to people not to get the WD VelociRaptor 150/300GB because their performance is only subpar at best for their cost. If you want VR you should opt for the new 600GB version (it is about 25% faster than the 300GB version, and the VR 300GB is slower than the 2TB Black). The VR 300GB has to retire and should not be in anyone's new build. But of course, if you have already bought it, then you should enjoy it. Otherwise, since you already have a 1TB on the side as your secondary, I would, for the same cost as the VR 300GB, go for a much faster 64GB or 80GB SSD.
.[/QUOTE]

I would've probably gone with the VR200M series if they were in stock. My 2 primary e-tailers (Newegg and ZZF) were (and still are) out of stock. And I would've gone with an SSD if they were a bit cheaper for the capacity I want. I'd need 150GB on my OS drive at a minumum and to get that with a quality SSD, you need to start spending around $400-450. I just can't stomach dropping $200-300 for half the capacity.

That said, I'm more than happy with the 300GB VelociRaptor's performance in real-world & multitasking scenarios. It's no SSD, but it's only slighly slower than the 600GB model and definitely faster than other mechanical drives out there.
 
Hoping it's not out of place to ask for some advice in this thread (I think that's what this thread is for, yes?)

I've been using Macs at home for the past few years, but I'm not all that happy with them lately, and thinking about going back to PC's. Years ago (seriously, like 10 years ago) I built my last computer, and I work with them, so I know how to put one together, but I'm so out of touch with the technology these days, I'm not sure what I'm looking for. I've looked at the builds at the front of this thread, and am working with those, but I've got some questions, and a partial build I was hoping I could get help with.

The build is here: https://secure.newegg.com/WishList/MySavedWishDetail.aspx?ID=11058054

I'm planning on using that sweet redwood case that was posted a few pages back. I've got most of the essentials, except for a video card, which is where I'm getting really stuck. I'm just not sure what I need, and the video card market seems to be fairly confusing - I'm having a hard time telling what's better than what, and what the minimum I need is. (The build also doesn't include HDD's, but those are easy enough to pick up I'm not worried about them at this point.) For no discernible reason, I have a slight bias towards NVidia GPU's, but most builds on this site (and others) seem to be ATI - any particular reason?

I'm also wondering if there's a comparable MoBo that I can pick up at MicroCenter - sadly, they don't have the one listed on the build, and I'm not sure if any of the ones they do have are as good price/performance. The only reason I say this is I know that they're having a $40 off i5 + MoBo bundle this month, and I'm not too far from the Fairfax MicroCenter, so I don't see any reason not to try and take advantage of that if possible.

Gaming wise, I'm not planning on pushing it too hard, I don't think. The game I'm really interested in being able to play at this point is Dawn of War II on decently high settings - it doesn't have to be maxed, but I'd like to get it close if I'm going to be building this new. (I've actually already picked it up during Steams sale a few weekends back, so it's pretty non-negotiable that I need to be able to play it. ;)) The only other game I know I'm going to be interested in, in the near future, is Diablo 3, but I don't know if anyone knows what the specs on that will be at this point. Other than that, I do most of my gaming on my consoles, but I'd like to be able to play games or BluRay movies on the machine if I find good sales or if my girlfriend wants to use the TV and I'm not really interested in watching what she's watching. I've got enough games on my plate that I probably will be looking for older games or games on sale, so I don't think I need ZOMGTOPOFTHELINE video card, but I'd like it to be decent. I'd also like it to have HDMI - with this case, I imagine that in a few years it'll be set up as a media center piece, and I'd rather as little fiddling as possible at that point.

Speaking of, with HDMI, do I need a separate sound card, or are most video cards worthwhile in that department as well?

Finally, I also need a decent monitor. I currently have a 20" iMac, and that seems to be a decent size - I'd be willing to go up to a 24" I think but anything larger than that just seems like over kill, and I'm not actually sure I would have room for it. Of course, if there's a too-good-to-pass-up deal on a 27" monitor or something, I could probably find room...

I've picked out a Corsair 750 PSU, but if that's overkill I'd certainly be willing to drop down to the 650 and save $30. But I don't want to shortchange myself in the future either.

As far as budget goes, I'd like to keep it under or around $1000. Again, I'm not looking for a top-of-the-line rig, but I'd like it to be decent and last me for a few years, with the ability to upgrade here and there if I find reason to.

I know this post is pretty dense, but thanks for reading and your suggestions.
 
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[quote name='INCyr']Hoping it's not out of place to ask for some advice in this thread (I think that's what this thread is for, yes?)

I've been using Macs at home for the past few years, but I'm not all that happy with them lately, and thinking about going back to PC's. Years ago (seriously, like 10 years ago) I built my last computer, and I work with them, so I know how to put one together, but I'm so out of touch with the technology these days, I'm not sure what I'm looking for. I've looked at the builds at the front of this thread, and am working with those, but I've got some questions, and a partial build I was hoping I could get help with.

The build is here: https://secure.newegg.com/WishList/MySavedWishDetail.aspx?ID=11058054

I'm planning on using that sweet redwood case that was posted a few pages back. I've got most of the essentials, except for a video card, which is where I'm getting really stuck. I'm just not sure what I need, and the video card market seems to be fairly confusing - I'm having a hard time telling what's better than what, and what the minimum I need is. (The build also doesn't include HDD's, but those are easy enough to pick up I'm not worried about them at this point.) For no discernible reason, I have a slight bias towards NVidia GPU's, but most builds on this site (and others) seem to be ATI - any particular reason?

I'm also wondering if there's a comparable MoBo that I can pick up at MicroCenter - sadly, they don't have the one listed on the build, and I'm not sure if any of the ones they do have are as good price/performance. The only reason I say this is I know that they're having a $40 off i5 + MoBo bundle this month, and I'm not too far from the Fairfax MicroCenter, so I don't see any reason not to try and take advantage of that if possible.

Gaming wise, I'm not planning on pushing it too hard, I don't think. The game I'm really interested in being able to play at this point is Dawn of War II on decently high settings - it doesn't have to be maxed, but I'd like to get it close if I'm going to be building this new. (I've actually already picked it up during Steams sale a few weekends back, so it's pretty non-negotiable that I need to be able to play it. ;)) The only other game I know I'm going to be interested in, in the near future, is Diablo 3, but I don't know if anyone knows what the specs on that will be at this point. Other than that, I do most of my gaming on my consoles, but I'd like to be able to play games or BluRay movies on the machine if I find good sales or if my girlfriend wants to use the TV and I'm not really interested in watching what she's watching. I've got enough games on my plate that I probably will be looking for older games or games on sale, so I don't think I need ZOMGTOPOFTHELINE video card, but I'd like it to be decent. I'd also like it to have HDMI - with this case, I imagine that in a few years it'll be set up as a media center piece, and I'd rather as little fiddling as possible at that point.

Speaking of, with HDMI, do I need a separate sound card, or are most video cards worthwhile in that department as well?

Finally, I also need a decent monitor. I currently have a 20" iMac, and that seems to be a decent size - I'd be willing to go up to a 24" I think but anything larger than that just seems like over kill, and I'm not actually sure I would have room for it. Of course, if there's a too-good-to-pass-up deal on a 27" monitor or something, I could probably find room...

I've picked out a Corsair 750 PSU, but if that's overkill I'd certainly be willing to drop down to the 650 and save $30. But I don't want to shortchange myself in the future either.

As far as budget goes, I'd like to keep it under or around $1000. Again, I'm not looking for a top-of-the-line rig, but I'd like it to be decent and last me for a few years, with the ability to upgrade here and there if I find reason to.

I know this post is pretty dense, but thanks for reading and your suggestions.[/QUOTE]

Your wish list link isn't working. I think it's pointing to your private wish list. Without knowing your parts, my advice will necessarily be somewhat limited. That said, I can make recommendations on the PSU and GPU. Given that you're going for a fairly mainstream build, I think a 650W PSU should be more than enough juice for you. I'd personally recommend Corsair's HX650W. I used their HX620W for 3 years and it was rock solid the entire time. It's a reputable company with a great warranty, and, again, it's a great product.

In terms of the GPU, most people have been recommending ATI GPUs over NVIDIA GPUs for the last 9 months because they've been the better performer by far. NVIDIA only recently released their "Fermi" line of DX11 GPUs and those have been underwhelming to say the least. They have slightly better performance but most, myself included, see them as too hot, too loud, and too little too late. With that out of the way, if you're not looking at pushing anything too serious, I'd recommend XFX's Radeon HD 5770. Again, we're looking at a quality manufacturer with great service and a lifetime warranty. If you're looking for a bit more of a punch and something more future proof, I'd go with XFX's Radeon HD 5850.

Oh, as to the monitor: anything from Dell is typically really good, though they can be a bit pricey. A solid 27" monitor is Sceptre's X270W. It's a bit bigger than what you're looking for but it's a lot cheaper than some of the higher quality 24" panels from Dell/HP. The ASUS VW246H is also a solid 24" panel as well.

Hope that helps. If you have any more questions, definitely ask them. I'd be interested in seeing the rest of your specs as well.
 
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[quote name='Ardrid']Your wish list link isn't working. I think it's pointing to your private wish list. Without knowing your parts, my advice will necessarily be somewhat limited. That said, I can make recommendations on the PSU and GPU. Given that you're going for a fairly mainstream build, I think a 650W PSU should be more than enough juice for you. I'd personally recommend Corsair's HX650W. I used their HX620W for 3 years and it was rock solid the entire time. It's a reputable company with a great warranty, and, again, it's a great product.

In terms of the GPU, most people have been recommending ATI GPUs over NVIDIA GPUs for the last 9 months because they've been the better performer by far. NVIDIA only recently released their "Fermi" line of DX11 GPUs and those have been underwhelming to say the least. They have slightly better performance but most, myself included, see them as too hot, too loud, and too little too late. With that out of the way, if you're not looking at pushing anything too serious, I'd recommend XFX's Radeon HD 5770. Again, we're looking at a quality manufacturer with great service and a lifetime warranty. If you're looking for a bit more of a punch and something more future proof, I'd go with XFX's Radeon HD 5850.

Oh, as to the monitor: anything from Dell is typically really good, though they can be a bit pricey. A solid 27" monitor is Sceptre's X270W. It's a bit bigger than what you're looking for but it's a lot cheaper than some of the higher quality 24" panels from Dell/HP. The ASUS VW246H is also a solid 24" panel as well.

Hope that helps. If you have any more questions, definitely ask them. I'd be interested in seeing the rest of your specs as well.[/QUOTE]


Thanks for the advice. I'll take a look at both the 5770 and the 5850, but given the price difference, I'm leaning towards the 5770. I'm just wondering if the extra $$ now won't save me a bit down the road. Also, looking around the newegg site, is there really any difference between the various 5770 cards? The other two I was looking at were the MSI (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127490&cm_re=5770-_-14-127-490-_-Product) and the Sapphire (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102868). Also, looking at the "Customer Choice Awards", this card (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130339) seems to be pretty good for a decent price. Is it still worth looking at, or is it old enough it's not worth picking up?

Also, the Corsair Fan I had picked out (750TX) costs as much as the 650HX. The 650TX is another $30 cheaper at $90. Is the 650HX really that much better, or would I be fine with either of the TX models?

Regarding MoBo's, I'm not entirely sure what the difference between the following two are:

GA-P55-USB3: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128425
GA-P55A-UD3: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128412

The reason I'm asking is that I can get the UD3 + i5-750 at Microcenter for $300 ($280 after MIR), where as the i5-750 + UD3 = $340 at Newegg. The USB3 + i5-750 would bring it down to $310, and that combo isn't available at Microcenter. (The i5-650 would knock an additional $20 off - is the downgrade worth $20?) And neither board actually says they support 1600 Memory, which seems kind of odd... Looking at them, they seem pretty equivelent, which seems to suggest I should take advantage of the Microcenter deal - I just want to make sure there's not something I'm missing.

Additionally, there's the UD4 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128409) which is an additional $45 to either combo. Again, not sure if the differences (Firewire, eSata, different PCI configuration) would be worth the upgrade. It has two competitors in ASUS it appears, being the P7P55D-E in both regular (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131620) and Pro (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131621). Both of those are also on sale at MicroCenter for about the same discount ($40/$30 respectively @ $320/$350.) Any thoughts on these boards?

(I know that's a lot of Motherboards to be asking about, but part of this is just getting it down so I can take a look at what I'm looking at later and re-evaluate. Plus any input I get on them is ultimately useful, so I hope you guys will forgive me.)

Finally, regarding the case - the only thing I'm worried about with that case is cooling. I don't plan on overclocking anything, but I do want to make sure that there's enough airflow through it to prevent any problems. Does anyone think that'll be an issue? (I know, it's kinda hard to tell without actually using it.)

Anyway, thanks again for the answers - I tried to read up on things before asking so as to not ask dumb questions that are better answered by "go google it and find out", so here's hoping that worked.

Oh, and thanks to all for the wishlist links - that's the first time I've used that feature on newegg, so I wasn't sure how to get that link correctly. (Still don't actually know, but I can copy and paste!)
 
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That's a lot of questions. I'll try to tackle them one at a time.

[quote name='INCyr']Also, looking around the newegg site, is there really any difference between the various 5770 cards? The other two I was looking at were the MSI (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127490&cm_re=5770-_-14-127-490-_-Product) and the Sapphire (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102868). [/QUOTE]

There is really no difference in terms of performance between most of the 5770's. Mostly branding, engineering quality, tech support, and warranty separate these cards. XFX has double lifetime warranty which is the best warranty out of all the brands. I would stick with XFX because of that.

Also, looking at the "Customer Choice Awards", this card (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130339) seems to be pretty good for a decent price. Is it still worth looking at, or is it old enough it's not worth picking up?

Don't bother, it's a very outdated card (2+ years old). It doesn't have DirectX 11 support so no bells and whistles and no eye candies for future games that support DX11.

Also, the Corsair Fan I had picked out (750TX) costs as much as the 650HX. The 650TX is another $30 cheaper at $90. Is the 650HX really that much better, or would I be fine with either of the TX models?

Corsair HX series means the cabling is modular and they're slightly higher quality (for example: HX650 is 80+ Bronze, while 650TX is 80+ only). I would probably go with the 650TX because you are not going to be able to tell the difference between 750TX and 650TX, except the $30. Your build doesn't require that big of a PSU. 650TX is good enough to power the ATI 5870 in case you want to upgrade to that card in the future.

Regarding MoBo's, I'm not entirely sure what the difference between the following two are:

GA-P55-USB3: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128425
GA-P55A-UD3: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128412

GA-P55-USB3 is an older model, while the GA-P55A-UD3 is the newer model. The GA-P55A-UD3 has SATA 6.0Gb while the older one doesn't. Get the newer one if you have to choose.

The i5-650 would knock an additional $20 off - is the downgrade worth $20?

Not worth it. i5-650 is a higher clocking dual core, while the i5-750 is a lower clocking quad core. You can always overclock the processor, but you cannot grow more cores out of a dual core.

Additionally, there's the UD4 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128409) which is an additional $45 to either combo. Again, not sure if the differences (Firewire, eSata, different PCI configuration) would be worth the upgrade. It has two competitors in ASUS it appears, being the P7P55D-E in both regular (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131620) and Pro (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131621). Both of those are also on sale at MicroCenter for about the same discount ($40/$30 respectively @ $320/$350.) Any thoughts on these boards?

If I have $180 to blow on a motherboard, I would definitely get the Asus P7P55D-E Pro. But for you, I think you'll be perfectly fine with the Gigabyte GA-P55A-UD3. It has all the basic features plus USB 3.0 and SATA 6.0Gb. It's more than what you need and at the same time it won't break your bank. Gigabyte and Asus both make great boards, but don't buy into all the premiums they charge for features you will hardly/never use.


Finally, regarding the case - the only thing I'm worried about with that case is cooling. I don't plan on overclocking anything, but I do want to make sure that there's enough airflow through it to prevent any problems. Does anyone think that'll be an issue? (I know, it's kinda hard to tell without actually using it.)

You link us a few cases you like from Newegg, and we'll tell you whether their airflow and and interior spacing is good for you. A case is a more subjective matter than all other computer parts. I don't want to tell you what cases *I* like. Pick out a few cases that you like for us to look at, and we'll tell you which one is the best.
 
[quote name='SOSTrooper']That's a lot of questions. I'll try to tackle them one at a time.[/QUOTE]

I know, and I thank you for taking the time to answer them all.



[quote name='SOSTrooper']There is really no difference in terms of performance between most of the 5770's. Mostly branding, engineering quality, tech support, and warranty separate these cards. XFX has double lifetime warranty which is the best warranty out of all the brands. I would stick with XFX because of that.[/QUOTE]

That's sort of what I figured, but it's good to know. I'm thinking the XFX 5770 then, since the 5850 is twice the price, and it sounds like I don't really need that much GPU power. If I do need it in a year or two, I can just pick out another $150 card, which should be able to handle what I need.


[quote name='SOSTrooper']Corsair HX series means the cabling is modular and they're slightly higher quality (for example: HX650 is 80+ Bronze, while 650TX is 80+ only). I would probably go with the 650TX because you are not going to be able to tell the difference between 750TX and 650TX, except the $30. Your build doesn't require that big of a PSU. 650TX is good enough to power the ATI 5870 in case you want to upgrade to that card in the future.[/QUOTE]

Hrm, good to know. 650TX it is, I guess.

[quote name='SOSTrooper']If I have $180 to blow on a motherboard, I would definitely get the Asus P7P55D-E Pro. But for you, I think you'll be perfectly fine with the Gigabyte GA-P55A-UD3. It has all the basic features plus USB 3.0 and SATA 6.0Gb. It's more than what you need and at the same time it won't break your bank. Gigabyte and Asus both make great boards, but don't buy into all the premiums they charge for features you will hardly/never use.[/QUOTE]

Hrm, sounds like it's down to the P7P55D-E Pro and the UD3. The difference in price would be $50, I'll have to look at them a little closer and see if I think the D-E pro is worth the upgrade.

[quote name='SOSTrooper']You link us a few cases you like from Newegg, and we'll tell you whether their airflow and and interior spacing is good for you. A case is a more subjective matter than all other computer parts. I don't want to tell you what cases *I* like. Pick out a few cases that you like for us to look at, and we'll tell you which one is the best.[/QUOTE]

I was specifically talking about this case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811204039 - In this case it's definitely a choice of form over function, but I really like the way it looks, and would love to have it as a Media Center PC once it's done doing duty as a regular desktop. I just want to make sure I'm not going to run into any problems with airflow/card space/etc.

Thanks again, you guys rock!
 
Finished putting my PC together last night, so much blood blue.

Everything looks good, few bent pins on the CPU but they were easy to straighten and it dropped right into place. Just need to get Win 7, triple check the wire connections, and I should be good to go.
 
Stupid question, my PC has no operating system, so I want to get Windows 7 FULL and not Upgrade, right?

Feel like a dummy these past few days.
heh
 
[quote name='KrizB']Stupid question, my PC has no operating system, so I want to get Windows 7 FULL and not Upgrade, right?

Feel like a dummy these past few days.
heh[/QUOTE]

That would be right. There was a trick to use an upgrade version to do a full install with Vista, but I don't know if it still works for 7. Either way, its a lot easier to just go ahead with the full version.
 
[quote name='INCyr']
I was specifically talking about this case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811204039 - In this case it's definitely a choice of form over function, but I really like the way it looks, and would love to have it as a Media Center PC once it's done doing duty as a regular desktop. I just want to make sure I'm not going to run into any problems with airflow/card space/etc.[/QUOTE]


To be honest, I think that case looks to have pretty terrible airflow. There is no intake fan to direct cooler air from outside to inside the case. With only one case fan in the rear, it means it'll not have a uni-directional airflow, but instead air is moved from every gap and hole it can find. Spacing wise you won't run into any issue since there is enough room for all your hadware. Though it does have a very unique design, I'll give it that.

If you ever want to consider cases with better airflow in your price range, I will recommend you these to check out:

CoolerMaster HAF 922 ($90)
CoolerMaster 690II ($80)
Lian Li PC-K62 ($90)
 
[quote name='Mid Boss']That would be right. There was a trick to use an upgrade version to do a full install with Vista, but I don't know if it still works for 7. Either way, its a lot easier to just go ahead with the full version.[/QUOTE]

install win 7 upgrade but dont enter the key when it asks, then reinstall over it.
 
[quote name='SOSTrooper'][quote name='INCyr']I was specifically talking about this case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811204039 - In this case it's definitely a choice of form over function, but I really like the way it looks, and would love to have it as a Media Center PC once it's done doing duty as a regular desktop. I just want to make sure I'm not going to run into any problems with airflow/card space/etc.[/quote]To be honest, I think that case looks to have pretty terrible airflow. There is no intake fan to direct cooler air from outside to inside the case. With only one case fan in the rear, it means it'll not have a uni-directional airflow, but instead air is moved from every gap and hole it can find. Spacing wise you won't run into any issue since there is enough room for all your hadware. Though it does have a very unique design, I'll give it that.
[/QUOTE]

INCyr is actually talking about whether or not he'll have major problems with airflow in the case linked above, not whether or not it's the best case for airflow and cooling.

Simple answer: No, you shouldn't have major issues with the case. 1 rear 140mm fan, 2 optional 92mm fans. It's difficult to tell what the size of the card is and the size of the case, but assuming the card is ~8.5 inches, it'll be a tight fit.
 
[quote name='paz9x']install win 7 upgrade but dont enter the key when it asks, then reinstall over it.[/QUOTE]

Oh, it does still work for 7? Its just a bit more straightforward to go for a full or oem version and just install once so that's still what I'd recommend for anyone asking.
 
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