Tips on buying a new car?
- Thread starter 62t
- Start date
Dont buy new, Buy used
Anything on the lot will run alot of money and
around with your finances, but if you can afford it go ahead...all that financing and paperwork gives me a headache
You live in Cali, Check the pennysaver or the Autotrader they have some great deals. I got my last car a 01 Honda matrix for $3500 at the police impound auction, with only 27,000 miles on it!!!!!
But it was stolen 2 months later when i decided to put new rims and a radio system in it. so im in the market for another one...
Anything on the lot will run alot of money and
around with your finances, but if you can afford it go ahead...all that financing and paperwork gives me a headacheYou live in Cali, Check the pennysaver or the Autotrader they have some great deals. I got my last car a 01 Honda matrix for $3500 at the police impound auction, with only 27,000 miles on it!!!!!
But it was stolen 2 months later when i decided to put new rims and a radio system in it. so im in the market for another one...
[quote name='62t']I am hoping to buy a new car this month and I want to know what are some tips that can help me get the best price possible.[/QUOTE]
Buy outgoing models, buy at the end of the month. Don't buy the seller's fluff, they're trying to screw you over no matter how nice they seem.
Also, another thing to consider is what car you're going to buy. You'll notice some companies advertise special discounts, ARPs, rebates, etc., those are the companies who have a lot of excess cars and are desperate for sales. Other companies (like Honda and Toyota) almost never have big clearances/sales so if you give them a bad offer then they'll literally tell you that they don't care.
My dad is probably the best car haggler I've ever seen. Seriously, my dad is nuts when it comes to buying cars.
2006 Honda Accord LX - Invoice price $22000, our price: $21500 in fall 06 (this one was tough...).
2005 Acura TSX - Invoice price $28000, our price: $26000 in sprint 05.
2002 Volvo S60 2.4T - Invoice price $35000, our price $32000 in fall 2002.
Buy outgoing models, buy at the end of the month. Don't buy the seller's fluff, they're trying to screw you over no matter how nice they seem.
Also, another thing to consider is what car you're going to buy. You'll notice some companies advertise special discounts, ARPs, rebates, etc., those are the companies who have a lot of excess cars and are desperate for sales. Other companies (like Honda and Toyota) almost never have big clearances/sales so if you give them a bad offer then they'll literally tell you that they don't care.
My dad is probably the best car haggler I've ever seen. Seriously, my dad is nuts when it comes to buying cars.
2006 Honda Accord LX - Invoice price $22000, our price: $21500 in fall 06 (this one was tough...).
2005 Acura TSX - Invoice price $28000, our price: $26000 in sprint 05.
2002 Volvo S60 2.4T - Invoice price $35000, our price $32000 in fall 2002.
Nineswords
CAGiversary!
First off - Don't buy new. As soon as you drive it off the lot, it deprecates. Meaning, if you buy it from the dealer, drive it home, attempt to sell it the next day, you will not get even close to what you paid for it.
Don't trade in your vehicle, attempt to sell it outright first. Typically you will get more if you sell to a private party, then if you traded it in.
If you do decide to trade it in, negotiate the price of the vehicle you want FIRST. (See next paragraph) Don't mention you have a trade in, if you are asked, either avoid the question or say you have it up for sale. Don't go to the dealership with your car that is going to be used for trade. Have a friend drive you or use a different vehicle.
Negotiate the price of the vehicle, but don't mention trade in. Get the dealer to the point of a firm price and sleep on it, think about it. Don't fall for.. "Well, we had three other people look at this vehicle today." There are other vehicles around....do some research on the vehicle you will like to buy. If it's used, look it up with Kelly Blue Book (www.kbb.com) and www.Edmunds.com. Dealers use them both, if they tell you they don't, then they are lying. Go to other car lots to see if they have simlar vehicles and what they are selling it for. Call used car lots to see how much they would sell the vehicle you want, see what they would give in trade. Take the difference from trade to what they would sell it for on their lot. Arm yourself with information.....and use it to get the price you want.
After you have a firm price and almost ready to sign.....ask what you can get for your car. Don't let the dealer change the firm price. It's the firm price less the trade-in. Don't except big bucks for your trade-in. If you still owe on it, and it's a reasonable amount left on your loan, say that you will take what you owe on your vehicle so you have to roll your old loan into your new one. Why pay on a vehicle you don't own anymore. Inflate your loan amount a little to get a better trade-in. Trade-in's typically get shipped to auction...go to the web sites above to get the auction amount of your vehicle...again arm yourself with information.
Financing....check with your bank and/or credit union to see what rate they can offer you. Check with they dealer's financing to see if they can beat that rate. You may be able to talk a better deal if you take the dealers financing because they are "double-dipping". They earn margin on the sale of the vehicle, plus earning interest on the sale when you finance with them.
Watch for strange charges on the bill of sale....Question items that don't make sense, why would you pay for an inspection fee, or a title search. They can't sell a vehicle legally if it doesn't have a clear title. Why should you pay for them to check on clear title.
Take the car for a test drive by yourself or with a friend or family member, get their opinion. If it's used, take it to a trusted mechanic to have them look at it, get their opinion.
Remember everything is negotable...time is on your side, don't let them dictate when you should make the deal...if they are appling too much pressure.....don't be afraid to sleep on it, ask questions, take your time. Don't sign day one, wait.....don't cave to the pressure...there are millions of vehicles out there, if they one you wanted is gone the next day...then it wasn't meant to be.
One big thing....car buying is all about relationships. Don't be an ass, be respectful and take your time. Building a good relationship might score you a better deal too.
Good Luck.
Don't trade in your vehicle, attempt to sell it outright first. Typically you will get more if you sell to a private party, then if you traded it in.
If you do decide to trade it in, negotiate the price of the vehicle you want FIRST. (See next paragraph) Don't mention you have a trade in, if you are asked, either avoid the question or say you have it up for sale. Don't go to the dealership with your car that is going to be used for trade. Have a friend drive you or use a different vehicle.
Negotiate the price of the vehicle, but don't mention trade in. Get the dealer to the point of a firm price and sleep on it, think about it. Don't fall for.. "Well, we had three other people look at this vehicle today." There are other vehicles around....do some research on the vehicle you will like to buy. If it's used, look it up with Kelly Blue Book (www.kbb.com) and www.Edmunds.com. Dealers use them both, if they tell you they don't, then they are lying. Go to other car lots to see if they have simlar vehicles and what they are selling it for. Call used car lots to see how much they would sell the vehicle you want, see what they would give in trade. Take the difference from trade to what they would sell it for on their lot. Arm yourself with information.....and use it to get the price you want.
After you have a firm price and almost ready to sign.....ask what you can get for your car. Don't let the dealer change the firm price. It's the firm price less the trade-in. Don't except big bucks for your trade-in. If you still owe on it, and it's a reasonable amount left on your loan, say that you will take what you owe on your vehicle so you have to roll your old loan into your new one. Why pay on a vehicle you don't own anymore. Inflate your loan amount a little to get a better trade-in. Trade-in's typically get shipped to auction...go to the web sites above to get the auction amount of your vehicle...again arm yourself with information.
Financing....check with your bank and/or credit union to see what rate they can offer you. Check with they dealer's financing to see if they can beat that rate. You may be able to talk a better deal if you take the dealers financing because they are "double-dipping". They earn margin on the sale of the vehicle, plus earning interest on the sale when you finance with them.
Watch for strange charges on the bill of sale....Question items that don't make sense, why would you pay for an inspection fee, or a title search. They can't sell a vehicle legally if it doesn't have a clear title. Why should you pay for them to check on clear title.
Take the car for a test drive by yourself or with a friend or family member, get their opinion. If it's used, take it to a trusted mechanic to have them look at it, get their opinion.
Remember everything is negotable...time is on your side, don't let them dictate when you should make the deal...if they are appling too much pressure.....don't be afraid to sleep on it, ask questions, take your time. Don't sign day one, wait.....don't cave to the pressure...there are millions of vehicles out there, if they one you wanted is gone the next day...then it wasn't meant to be.
One big thing....car buying is all about relationships. Don't be an ass, be respectful and take your time. Building a good relationship might score you a better deal too.
Good Luck.
UnPimpMyRide
CAG Veteran
What kind of car are you looking for? The number one best thing you can do is to buy a car from a dealer who is well known in the local car clubs for that particular marque.
The second thing is to remember that not all salesmen are assholes, so do not treat us like one. Do not try to haggle on the price of the car, and do not walk in with "Blue Books" trying to get a price lowered. Unless you want to trade in a vintage or performance niche car then the blue book value is highly accurate. Most of us will not make more than a couple hundred dollars on a car unless it is a big order. A new car dealership is making only slightly more, or they will take a percentage of the sale from the person on the floor, some dealerships use markups in combination with the above. Other dealers will only make their profit off of the markup to keep things simple and to avoid pissing off the dealers. That part is different for every dealership. As a salesmen; to me a $20,000 deal and a $40,000 would be the same thing. I have no problem telling a customer to STFU and buy his car somewhere else just because he wants to haggle on a car he thinks we are marking up, when in reality that car is making me only $200.
Don't ever let the dealer or the dealership try to sell you shit you do not need. Smart dealers will not do this, we are the nice guys on the floor that you need to ask for help. Stay away from the pushy ones who instantly try to hound you when you enter a lot. Some of these people just work retail as a career they do not really know anything, then there is the minority of us who do this because we are car geeks.
I would venture to say the rest is common sense but;
-do not tell them how much you want to spend
-do not answer questions like; "How much do you want to spend?, What are you looking for?"
-walk in there knowing a little about the car, don't rely on sales brochures
-don't act like the dealer or the dealership is responsible for the reputation a marque has, we didn't build the car so don't be offensive
-don't be afraid to tell them you saw the same car at another dealer, they will want to try to match the price if they are smart
-don't do what they tell you to when you sign their surveys after you buy the car (this is extremely dishonest of them to ask you to score them well on customer satisfaction surveys. Put them in theiring place if they do ask you to.)
I took so long typing the last guy beat me.
$
The second thing is to remember that not all salesmen are assholes, so do not treat us like one. Do not try to haggle on the price of the car, and do not walk in with "Blue Books" trying to get a price lowered. Unless you want to trade in a vintage or performance niche car then the blue book value is highly accurate. Most of us will not make more than a couple hundred dollars on a car unless it is a big order. A new car dealership is making only slightly more, or they will take a percentage of the sale from the person on the floor, some dealerships use markups in combination with the above. Other dealers will only make their profit off of the markup to keep things simple and to avoid pissing off the dealers. That part is different for every dealership. As a salesmen; to me a $20,000 deal and a $40,000 would be the same thing. I have no problem telling a customer to STFU and buy his car somewhere else just because he wants to haggle on a car he thinks we are marking up, when in reality that car is making me only $200.
Don't ever let the dealer or the dealership try to sell you shit you do not need. Smart dealers will not do this, we are the nice guys on the floor that you need to ask for help. Stay away from the pushy ones who instantly try to hound you when you enter a lot. Some of these people just work retail as a career they do not really know anything, then there is the minority of us who do this because we are car geeks.
I would venture to say the rest is common sense but;
-do not tell them how much you want to spend
-do not answer questions like; "How much do you want to spend?, What are you looking for?"
-walk in there knowing a little about the car, don't rely on sales brochures
-don't act like the dealer or the dealership is responsible for the reputation a marque has, we didn't build the car so don't be offensive
-don't be afraid to tell them you saw the same car at another dealer, they will want to try to match the price if they are smart
-don't do what they tell you to when you sign their surveys after you buy the car (this is extremely dishonest of them to ask you to score them well on customer satisfaction surveys. Put them in their
ing place if they do ask you to.)I took so long typing the last guy beat me.
$
Nineswords
CAGiversary!
[quote name='UnPimpMyRide'] As a salesmen; to me a $20,000 deal and a $40,000 would be the same thing. I have no problem telling a customer to STFU and buy his car somewhere else just because he wants to haggle on a car he thinks we are marking up, when in reality that car is making me only $200.[/quote]
It's nice to hear the other side of the coin.
That being said, I have a question for you....
Is your commission typically 1% of the sell price?
Thanks
It's nice to hear the other side of the coin.
That being said, I have a question for you....Is your commission typically 1% of the sell price?
Thanks
hiccupleftovers
CAGiversary!
[quote name='joe2187']Dont buy new, Buy used
[/quote]
Greatest misconception ever. You have to way the pros and cons of buying new versus used. If you buy new, then you know the condition you are getting the car in is next to immaculate, barring that they don't seel you a defective/lemon car, while with used you can get anything. Next misconception is that buying new costs that much more. It costs that much more because most people are idiots who do not read the contract they are signing. So this would be my advice to you:
Way your options on which cars you want and for how much. Be sure that the used car is in good condition. DO NOT LISTEN TO ANYTHING THE DEAL SAYS. THEY ARE SCUM AND WILL SUCKER YOU INTO ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING. I know I've gone in with friends and managed to get them from a two F150 without rims or a grill at 43000 to a 2 door F150 with rims and a grill for 31000. Both were new by the way. The difference in price is because the dealer tried to add all kinds of things to the contract such oil changes for a year at a thousand (makes no sense) and other such service contracts. Lots of fluff and bullshit.
[/quote]
Greatest misconception ever. You have to way the pros and cons of buying new versus used. If you buy new, then you know the condition you are getting the car in is next to immaculate, barring that they don't seel you a defective/lemon car, while with used you can get anything. Next misconception is that buying new costs that much more. It costs that much more because most people are idiots who do not read the contract they are signing. So this would be my advice to you:
Way your options on which cars you want and for how much. Be sure that the used car is in good condition. DO NOT LISTEN TO ANYTHING THE DEAL SAYS. THEY ARE SCUM AND WILL SUCKER YOU INTO ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING. I know I've gone in with friends and managed to get them from a two F150 without rims or a grill at 43000 to a 2 door F150 with rims and a grill for 31000. Both were new by the way. The difference in price is because the dealer tried to add all kinds of things to the contract such oil changes for a year at a thousand (makes no sense) and other such service contracts. Lots of fluff and bullshit.
hiccupleftovers
CAGiversary!
[quote name='Nineswords']First off - Don't buy new. As soon as you drive it off the lot, it deprecates. Meaning, if you buy it from the dealer, drive it home, attempt to sell it the next day, you will not get even close to what you paid for it.
Don't trade in your vehicle, attempt to sell it outright first. Typically you will get more if you sell to a private party, then if you traded it in.
If you do decide to trade it in, negotiate the price of the vehicle you want FIRST. (See next paragraph) Don't mention you have a trade in, if you are asked, either avoid the question or say you have it up for sale. Don't go to the dealership with your car that is going to be used for trade. Have a friend drive you or use a different vehicle.
Negotiate the price of the vehicle, but don't mention trade in. Get the dealer to the point of a firm price and sleep on it, think about it. Don't fall for.. "Well, we had three other people look at this vehicle today." There are other vehicles around....do some research on the vehicle you will like to buy. If it's used, look it up with Kelly Blue Book (www.kbb.com) and www.Edmunds.com. Dealers use them both, if they tell you they don't, then they are lying. Go to other car lots to see if they have simlar vehicles and what they are selling it for. Call used car lots to see how much they would sell the vehicle you want, see what they would give in trade. Take the difference from trade to what they would sell it for on their lot. Arm yourself with information.....and use it to get the price you want.
After you have a firm price and almost ready to sign.....ask what you can get for your car. Don't let the dealer change the firm price. It's the firm price less the trade-in. Don't except big bucks for your trade-in. If you still owe on it, and it's a reasonable amount left on your loan, say that you will take what you owe on your vehicle so you have to roll your old loan into your new one. Why pay on a vehicle you don't own anymore. Inflate your loan amount a little to get a better trade-in. Trade-in's typically get shipped to auction...go to the web sites above to get the auction amount of your vehicle...again arm yourself with information.
Financing....check with your bank and/or credit union to see what rate they can offer you. Check with they dealer's financing to see if they can beat that rate. You may be able to talk a better deal if you take the dealers financing because they are "double-dipping". They earn margin on the sale of the vehicle, plus earning interest on the sale when you finance with them.
Watch for strange charges on the bill of sale....Question items that don't make sense, why would you pay for an inspection fee, or a title search. They can't sell a vehicle legally if it doesn't have a clear title. Why should you pay for them to check on clear title.
Take the car for a test drive by yourself or with a friend or family member, get their opinion. If it's used, take it to a trusted mechanic to have them look at it, get their opinion.
Remember everything is negotable...time is on your side, don't let them dictate when you should make the deal...if they are appling too much pressure.....don't be afraid to sleep on it, ask questions, take your time. Don't sign day one, wait.....don't cave to the pressure...there are millions of vehicles out there, if they one you wanted is gone the next day...then it wasn't meant to be.
One big thing....car buying is all about relationships. Don't be an ass, be respectful and take your time. Building a good relationship might score you a better deal too.
Good Luck.[/quote]
I'm with you on everything used with the caveat being not to buy new. Still, well written and pretty much exactly what I said on not getting suckered into extra stipulations in the contract that you do not need, just worded better and without my anecdote. This post should be thrown into a FAQ of some sort on car buying. Really really well done. I commend you sir
Don't trade in your vehicle, attempt to sell it outright first. Typically you will get more if you sell to a private party, then if you traded it in.
If you do decide to trade it in, negotiate the price of the vehicle you want FIRST. (See next paragraph) Don't mention you have a trade in, if you are asked, either avoid the question or say you have it up for sale. Don't go to the dealership with your car that is going to be used for trade. Have a friend drive you or use a different vehicle.
Negotiate the price of the vehicle, but don't mention trade in. Get the dealer to the point of a firm price and sleep on it, think about it. Don't fall for.. "Well, we had three other people look at this vehicle today." There are other vehicles around....do some research on the vehicle you will like to buy. If it's used, look it up with Kelly Blue Book (www.kbb.com) and www.Edmunds.com. Dealers use them both, if they tell you they don't, then they are lying. Go to other car lots to see if they have simlar vehicles and what they are selling it for. Call used car lots to see how much they would sell the vehicle you want, see what they would give in trade. Take the difference from trade to what they would sell it for on their lot. Arm yourself with information.....and use it to get the price you want.
After you have a firm price and almost ready to sign.....ask what you can get for your car. Don't let the dealer change the firm price. It's the firm price less the trade-in. Don't except big bucks for your trade-in. If you still owe on it, and it's a reasonable amount left on your loan, say that you will take what you owe on your vehicle so you have to roll your old loan into your new one. Why pay on a vehicle you don't own anymore. Inflate your loan amount a little to get a better trade-in. Trade-in's typically get shipped to auction...go to the web sites above to get the auction amount of your vehicle...again arm yourself with information.
Financing....check with your bank and/or credit union to see what rate they can offer you. Check with they dealer's financing to see if they can beat that rate. You may be able to talk a better deal if you take the dealers financing because they are "double-dipping". They earn margin on the sale of the vehicle, plus earning interest on the sale when you finance with them.
Watch for strange charges on the bill of sale....Question items that don't make sense, why would you pay for an inspection fee, or a title search. They can't sell a vehicle legally if it doesn't have a clear title. Why should you pay for them to check on clear title.
Take the car for a test drive by yourself or with a friend or family member, get their opinion. If it's used, take it to a trusted mechanic to have them look at it, get their opinion.
Remember everything is negotable...time is on your side, don't let them dictate when you should make the deal...if they are appling too much pressure.....don't be afraid to sleep on it, ask questions, take your time. Don't sign day one, wait.....don't cave to the pressure...there are millions of vehicles out there, if they one you wanted is gone the next day...then it wasn't meant to be.
One big thing....car buying is all about relationships. Don't be an ass, be respectful and take your time. Building a good relationship might score you a better deal too.
Good Luck.[/quote]
I'm with you on everything used with the caveat being not to buy new. Still, well written and pretty much exactly what I said on not getting suckered into extra stipulations in the contract that you do not need, just worded better and without my anecdote. This post should be thrown into a FAQ of some sort on car buying. Really really well done. I commend you sir
UnPimpMyRide
CAG Veteran
[quote name='Nineswords']It's nice to hear the other side of the coin. That being said, I have a question for you....
Is your commission typically 1% of the sell price?
Thanks[/quote] 1-6% depending on consignment options. If it is a consignment deal then a portion of a consignment sale always goes to the dealership out of my percentage though.
A $200 commission like above is typically from auctioned stock we sell on older A4's or C320's. Brand new models of those equvalents will usually net me considerably more.
That being said, I have a question for you....Is your commission typically 1% of the sell price?
Thanks[/quote] 1-6% depending on consignment options. If it is a consignment deal then a portion of a consignment sale always goes to the dealership out of my percentage though.
A $200 commission like above is typically from auctioned stock we sell on older A4's or C320's. Brand new models of those equvalents will usually net me considerably more.
Slim Gatsby
CAGiversary!
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Buying used isn't necessarily better than buying new. You can get the loan over a longer term and at a better rate on a new car than a used car, so if you're looking to keep your monthly payment down, a new car might be the same price or cheaper.
Also, the factory warranty is something to take into account. I bought my Hyundai Accent new because the 10/100,000 mile year powertrain warranty doesn't transfer with ownwership.
Also, the factory warranty is something to take into account. I bought my Hyundai Accent new because the 10/100,000 mile year powertrain warranty doesn't transfer with ownwership.
Malik112099
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Tip #1: Don't ask for tips on buying a car at a website called Cheap Ass Gamer
UnPimpMyRide
CAG Veteran
[quote name='Slim Gatsby']Buying used isn't necessarily better than buying new.
I bought my Hyundai Accent new because the 10/100,000 mile year powertrain warranty doesn't transfer with ownwership.[/quote]
Yes, but you actually bought a Hyundai Accent...
I bought my Hyundai Accent new because the 10/100,000 mile year powertrain warranty doesn't transfer with ownwership.[/quote]
Yes, but you actually bought a Hyundai Accent...
djkunai
Banned
If you decide to buy from a dealer, doing so around December 30 you could haggle your price down a lot, if you know your stuff. It's the end of the year and it looks good to have another few thousand in their books than an extra car that hasn't moved. Edmunds.com has some great guides for buying.
Malik112099
CAGiversary!
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[quote name='UnPimpMyRide']Yes, but you actually bought a Hyundai Accent...[/quote]
nothing wrong with a hyundai...4th most selling import car in the US...behind toyota, honda and nissan.....also ties honda for dependability right behind toyota....in 2005 the hyundai sonata was rated the most dependable car you could buy...
nothing wrong with a hyundai...4th most selling import car in the US...behind toyota, honda and nissan.....also ties honda for dependability right behind toyota....in 2005 the hyundai sonata was rated the most dependable car you could buy...
UnPimpMyRide
CAG Veteran
[quote name='Malik112099']nothing wrong with a hyundai...4th most selling import car in the US...behind toyota, honda and nissan.....also ties honda for dependability right behind toyota....in 2005 the hyundai sonata was rated the most dependable car you could buy...[/quote] That would be a halfway valid arguement if you said Sonata or Azera. What sells the most does not make it [among] the best.
Malik112099
CAGiversary!
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[quote name='UnPimpMyRide']That would be a halfway valid arguement if you said Sonata or Azera. What sells the most does not make it [among] the best.[/quote]
almost every hyundai is on a brand new platform except the tiburon....the sonata, azera, accent, santa fe, vera cruz, elantra, entourage and tuscon all are new within the last 3 years....plus the 10/100K powertrain, 5/60K bumper to bumper, 7/100K paint and 5/unlimited roadside assistance make them excellent buys..i have 2 - 2006 sonata lx and a 2003 tiburon....both have never given me problems and I reccommend buying a new Hyundai over some used/abused car just for the warranty alone...if you are in a fix you can get a stripped down accent for under 7K with the full warranty which is better than buying a 4-5K used vehicle that could break down and cost you even more
do your research before you make 15 year old assumptions about something you know nothing about
almost every hyundai is on a brand new platform except the tiburon....the sonata, azera, accent, santa fe, vera cruz, elantra, entourage and tuscon all are new within the last 3 years....plus the 10/100K powertrain, 5/60K bumper to bumper, 7/100K paint and 5/unlimited roadside assistance make them excellent buys..i have 2 - 2006 sonata lx and a 2003 tiburon....both have never given me problems and I reccommend buying a new Hyundai over some used/abused car just for the warranty alone...if you are in a fix you can get a stripped down accent for under 7K with the full warranty which is better than buying a 4-5K used vehicle that could break down and cost you even more
do your research before you make 15 year old assumptions about something you know nothing about
UnPimpMyRide
CAG Veteran
[quote name='Malik112099']almost every hyundai is on a brand new platform except the tiburon....the sonata, azera, accent, santa fe, vera cruz, elantra, entourage and tuscon all are new within the last 3 years....plus the 10/100K powertrain, 5/60K bumper to bumper, 7/100K paint and 5/unlimited roadside assistance make them excellent buys..i have 2 - 2006 sonata lx and a 2003 tiburon....
both have never given me problems and I reccommend buying a new Hyundai over some used/abused car just for the warranty alone...i
f you are in a fix you can get a stripped down accent for under 7K with the full warranty which is better than buying a 4-5K used vehicle that could break down and cost you even more
do your research before you make 15 year old assumptions about something you know nothing about[/quote]
In the future perhaps you will try to post in a manner that will have at least a responsible sense of grammar or punctuation, maybe then you wouldn't look so bad.
What 15 year old assumption? Where did I make any assuption? Point this out to me so I can correct it. For 7k on a stripped down Accent you can buy a bulletproof Lexus LS400, Toyota Camry, or Toyota Tacoma, among many other choices that are vastly superior to all of the cars above.
You are just a typical owner defending your purchase to make it seem as if it is the best. I made absolutely no comments or assumptions about Hyundai at all.
both have never given me problems and I reccommend buying a new Hyundai over some used/abused car just for the warranty alone...i
f you are in a fix you can get a stripped down accent for under 7K with the full warranty which is better than buying a 4-5K used vehicle that could break down and cost you even more
do your research before you make 15 year old assumptions about something you know nothing about[/quote]
In the future perhaps you will try to post in a manner that will have at least a responsible sense of grammar or punctuation, maybe then you wouldn't look so bad.
What 15 year old assumption? Where did I make any assuption? Point this out to me so I can correct it. For 7k on a stripped down Accent you can buy a bulletproof Lexus LS400, Toyota Camry, or Toyota Tacoma, among many other choices that are vastly superior to all of the cars above.
You are just a typical owner defending your purchase to make it seem as if it is the best. I made absolutely no comments or assumptions about Hyundai at all.
Slim Gatsby
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[quote name='UnPimpMyRide']Yes, but you actually bought a Hyundai Accent...[/quote]
you, douchebag. Get a ing life, eat a dick, and choke on it.
I drive something small, economical, and fuel-efficient to compensate for my massive penis.
you, douchebag. Get a ing life, eat a dick, and choke on it.I drive something small, economical, and fuel-efficient to compensate for my massive penis.
UnPimpMyRide
CAG Veteran
Refer exactly to what I quoted instead of being so defensive.
Hyundai offers warranties on their used cars that are more than sufficient, you do not need to buy a new Accent for their warranty to be transferrable.
It is physically illegal for them to refuse to fulfill a warranty they sell seperately from the car because all warranty claims are not handled by Hyundai. Hyundai cannot deny you anything, your dealership denied you the warranty when you were looking at used cars.
Stop reading into things.
[quote name='Slim Gatsby'] you, douchebag. Get a ing life, eat a dick, and choke on it.
I drive something small, economical, and fuel-efficient to compensate for my massive penis.[/quote]
Hyundai offers warranties on their used cars that are more than sufficient, you do not need to buy a new Accent for their warranty to be transferrable.
It is physically illegal for them to refuse to fulfill a warranty they sell seperately from the car because all warranty claims are not handled by Hyundai. Hyundai cannot deny you anything, your dealership denied you the warranty when you were looking at used cars.
Stop reading into things.
[quote name='Slim Gatsby']
you, douchebag. Get a ing life, eat a dick, and choke on it.I drive something small, economical, and fuel-efficient to compensate for my massive penis.[/quote]
Malik112099
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[quote name='UnPimpMyRide']In the future perhaps you will try to post in a manner that will have at least a responsible sense of grammar or punctuation, maybe then you wouldn't look so bad.
What 15 year old assumption? Where did I make any assuption? Point this out to me so I can correct it. For 7k on a stripped down Accent you can buy a bulletproof Lexus LS400, Toyota Camry, or Toyota Tacoma, among many other choices that are vastly superior to all of the cars above.
You are just a typical owner defending your purchase to make it seem as if it is the best. I made absolutely no comments or assumptions about Hyundai at all.[/quote]
my purchase is definatley not the best..as soon as i can afford it we are getting rid of the sonata and getting the redesigned Toyota Sequioa..although i do challenge you to find a car for $19,060 which is better than the sonata i purchased.....your assumtion was that the only decent cars in the hyundai lineup are the sonata and azera which is pretty much bs considering the azera is the new xg which was pretty sub par to begin with and the current sonata is on a whole new platform which has yet to show the dependability of the previous gen sonata..the problem with a bullet proof LS, camry or tacoma is that for 7K those are all old and used when some people much prefer a new car which feels more dependable.....the hyundai warranty CAN be transferred to a second owner but it is nowhere near as good as the original
What 15 year old assumption? Where did I make any assuption? Point this out to me so I can correct it. For 7k on a stripped down Accent you can buy a bulletproof Lexus LS400, Toyota Camry, or Toyota Tacoma, among many other choices that are vastly superior to all of the cars above.
You are just a typical owner defending your purchase to make it seem as if it is the best. I made absolutely no comments or assumptions about Hyundai at all.[/quote]
my purchase is definatley not the best..as soon as i can afford it we are getting rid of the sonata and getting the redesigned Toyota Sequioa..although i do challenge you to find a car for $19,060 which is better than the sonata i purchased.....your assumtion was that the only decent cars in the hyundai lineup are the sonata and azera which is pretty much bs considering the azera is the new xg which was pretty sub par to begin with and the current sonata is on a whole new platform which has yet to show the dependability of the previous gen sonata..the problem with a bullet proof LS, camry or tacoma is that for 7K those are all old and used when some people much prefer a new car which feels more dependable.....the hyundai warranty CAN be transferred to a second owner but it is nowhere near as good as the original
UnPimpMyRide
CAG Veteran
[quote name='Malik112099']my purchase is definatley not the best..as soon as i can afford it we are getting rid of the sonata and getting the redesigned Toyota Sequioa..although i do challenge you to find a car for $19,060 which is better than the sonata i purchased.....your assumtion was that the only decent cars in the hyundai lineup are the sonata and azera which is pretty much bs considering the azera is the new xg which was pretty sub par to begin with and the current sonata is on a whole new platform which has yet to show the dependability of the previous gen sonata..the problem with a bullet proof LS, camry or tacoma is that for 7K those are all old and used when some people much prefer a new car which feels more dependable.....the hyundai warranty CAN be transferred to a second owner but it is nowhere near as good as the original[/quote]
I cannot read this; use sentances please.
I cannot read this; use sentances please.
Hyundai's feel like you're riding on plastic though, at least get a Honda or Toyota geez. I wouldn't buy a Nissan either, I'm sure they've gotten better but 10 years ago their cars were not made very well.
Obviously I wouldn't buy anything American unless you're getting a super deal and not planning to drive the car for more than 3 or 4 years max
Obviously I wouldn't buy anything American unless you're getting a super deal and not planning to drive the car for more than 3 or 4 years max
CouRageouS
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[quote name='Moxio']Idiot. Your overreaction is so out of place it's not even funny.[/QUOTE]
Probably not the first time he took shit for driving a Hyundai.
OP, my biggest advice is shop long and hard. I spent all last Summer shopping for my new car and finally bit the bullet in August. All I can say is plan your finances accordingly with payments and insurance and research your final choices as much as you possibly can before signing anything. If doing through a dealer don't let them push you around and know that they want you to buy something since they're on commission. Don't be afraid to walk off lots. Also test drive a lot. Thats the must fun I had car shopping.
Probably not the first time he took shit for driving a Hyundai.
OP, my biggest advice is shop long and hard. I spent all last Summer shopping for my new car and finally bit the bullet in August. All I can say is plan your finances accordingly with payments and insurance and research your final choices as much as you possibly can before signing anything. If doing through a dealer don't let them push you around and know that they want you to buy something since they're on commission. Don't be afraid to walk off lots. Also test drive a lot. Thats the must fun I had car shopping.
Malik112099
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[quote name='UnPimpMyRide']I cannot read this; use sentances please.[/quote]
I cannot read this; spell correctly please.
ing jerk.
I cannot read this; spell correctly please.
ing jerk.
Before deciding between new and used ask yourself this...
How long am I going to have this car for???
If you buy used you are best going to a private party.
A new car loses approx. $5,000 when you drive it off the lot. Unless you re going to drive this car for at least 120,000+ miles than buy used. Something that is 2-4 years old.
How long am I going to have this car for???
If you buy used you are best going to a private party.
A new car loses approx. $5,000 when you drive it off the lot. Unless you re going to drive this car for at least 120,000+ miles than buy used. Something that is 2-4 years old.
bread's done