Walmart YMMV In Store Clearance Thread I (READ THE FAQs)

ThatOneGuyWho

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Changing this to a FAQs for those that need some help getting these deals.


When I order online it shows X price for in store, but changes to Y price at checkout, what gives?
You can only do in store pickup for the clearance price if the item is available for pick up that day. If it isn't the price will be the online price instead. Sometimes the item will be shipped to that store if it is no longer at that store. It may adjust to the clearance price at pickup but it could also charge you full price for it.

Can I buy the item at one store and return / rebuy at another?
Yes but it is up to the stores discretion to allow you to get it for that stores in store price. If it is an online order, they are supposed to return it to the warehouse it came from so you will not be able to buy it back. It's YMMV on employees following this rule though.

Can I price match a Walmart clearance item at X store?
No. No store, including Walmart, PMs clearance prices. YMMV on getting PMs for these items but it is against every stores policy to do so.

I want to price match this clearance item at another Walmart, will they allow me to?
No WM (or any retailer) PMs the prices of other local stores.

BS said X of an item is in stock, but the employee said it isn't at my store, why did they lie to me?
They didn't. Sometimes items are misplaced, stolen, or the count is off. Employees are not all over the massive stock room nor do they know where every item is. Don't harass an employee or come on here saying they are keeping it for themselves. Sometimes, an item truly isn't in the store.

Why is BS always wrong?
BS is not wrong. Their information is directly from WM systems. Just like all stores, inventory and prices may be wrong for a certain store. Do not rely only on BS.

How do I find clearance items?
Go to the store and scan items, check SD, check this thread. Actually look for something you want.

Where in the store are clearance games located?

Clearance items in general can be on shelves, in dedicated clearance sections or in the stock room. For games specifically, they will be in the videogame glass cases, videogame value game isle or dedicated clearance section. It's random and depends on that stores layout / management.

What is the SKU or item number of this item?
Look it up yourself. There is a search function on this site, on BS site and you can Google the item almost 100% of the time. No one needs to spoon feed you this information and we shouldn't have 20 people asking for the same information that was already posted.


Acronyms to know.
WM = Walmart
PM = Price Match
TRU = Toysrus
BS = Brickseek
SD = Slickdeals

 
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Ended up going back to pick it up. Was having issues putting the Xfinity gateway into bridge mode, it would tell me I didn't have a connection. It only happened after switching on bridge mode. Currently I have it all up and running, I can still connect to either(the old gateway or the Nighthawk). Anyone have suggestions? I'm worried leaving it like this might cause interference down the road.
 
Ended up going back to pick it up. Was having issues putting the Xfinity gateway into bridge mode, it would tell me I didn't have a connection. It only happened after switching on bridge mode. Currently I have it all up and running, I can still connect to either(the old gateway or the Nighthawk). Anyone have suggestions? I'm worried leaving it like this might cause interference down the road.
Did you disable dhcp on the gateway or router? Otherwise both are handing out ip addresses​ on your LAN. I actually would find a way to just put your Xfinity into a modem only mode and go directly out by CAT to the nighthawk and see if that works first. Then maybe experiment and try bridge mode.
 
Ended up going back to pick it up. Was having issues putting the Xfinity gateway into bridge mode, it would tell me I didn't have a connection. It only happened after switching on bridge mode. Currently I have it all up and running, I can still connect to either(the old gateway or the Nighthawk). Anyone have suggestions? I'm worried leaving it like this might cause interference down the road.
Did you release the lease on your IP on the old router? You would need to do that and shut off the internet quickly so the old router renews the lease automatically.
 
Did you disable dhcp on the gateway or router? Otherwise both are handing out ip addresses​ on your LAN. I actually would find a way to just put your Xfinity into a modem only mode and go directly out by CAT to the nighthawk and see if that works first. Then maybe experiment and try bridge mode.
Did you release the lease on your IP on the old router? You would need to do that and shut off the internet quickly so the old router renews the lease automatically.
I appreciate the tips guys, I'm officially confused though. How do you disabled dhcp? Or release the IP from the old router? Are these the same things? In the settings it has a option to be it in bridge mode, you still have to do these other things manually? Sorry as good as I am with tech and computers, networking had never been my thing. Maybe one of you could provide a link to a walk through of some sort? Appreciate the help.
 
I appreciate the tips guys, I'm officially confused though. How do you disabled dhcp? Or release the IP from the old router? Are these the same things? In the settings it has a option to be it in bridge mode, you still have to do these other things manually? Sorry as good as I am with tech and computers, networking had never been my thing. Maybe one of you could provide a link to a walk through of some sort? Appreciate the help.
You can do this by logging into your router's ip address. It's different depending on the brand but you will put something like http://192.168.2.1/ (that's the one for a Belkin) into your browser, this will go into the settings and you can do it from there.

 
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I appreciate the tips guys, I'm officially confused though. How do you disabled dhcp? Or release the IP from the old router? Are these the same things? In the settings it has a option to be it in bridge mode, you still have to do these other things manually? Sorry as good as I am with tech and computers, networking had never been my thing. Maybe one of you could provide a link to a walk through of some sort? Appreciate the help.
Every router has an admin page. You'll need to Google it depending on your brand. Once you get in you'll need to nose around on the settings to find the DHCP. It's probably under network or something. Some routers have s button to release the lease. If not, you can do this by unplugging your router from the internet and power for a few hours. Google can give you better reading material. The key is to not let the old router renew it's lease. However you release the lease, make sure you are not live on the internet when you power up old router.

I missed your provider but unless your on fios it should be pretty easy to hook up your own router. Maybe explain what you want out if your setup? Like more range? Better NAT performance? Might be better to provide some feedback. Good luck!
 
SO you must be in the BR area?
yeah they still have a few things like wireless ac 1900 routest for 25 like 7 razer keyboards for $10 yesterday i got 2 logitech gaming 710+ keyboards for 15 these retail for $100 and my brother found 3 fairpoint vr aim guns with game for 20 each lol

 
I can't believe my Walmart still carries PS1 games!

attachicon.gif
walmartps1.jpg
I would have bought that
 
so had to go an hour out of town to pick somethign else up and found a walmart there. place had like 6 sections of tech clearance, and most of them were just marked this week. no video games though. finally found the Pebble Watch 2 + HR, there was two black and one white. I decided to browse other stuff cause i thought no one has picked these up yet, so i should be fine. Come back, and a guy was grabbing all three. I managed to stop him and ask if it was okay if I got one of them, and he let me have the white one. Lesson learned: don't wait. but also thank you to that guy!

but out of all the other tech stuff, a whole bunch of routers and modems on clearance, some really good ones that i was looking at few months back when i moved. from $17 and up. also bunch of bluetooth speakers.

that guy bought a bunch of the clearance stuff, im guessing to resell. one good thing i saw him take:

Samsung Radiant360 R1 WiFi Bluetooth Speaker, 3.6" Woofer, Dark Grey ->

http://brickseek.com/walmart-inventory-checker/?sku=118823899 $40

 
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You can do this by logging into your router's ip address. It's different depending on the brand but you will put something like http://192.168.2.1/ (that's the one for a Belkin) into your browser, this will go into the settings and you can do it from there.
Every router has an admin page. You'll need to Google it depending on your brand. Once you get in you'll need to nose around on the settings to find the DHCP. It's probably under network or something. Some routers have s button to release the lease. If not, you can do this by unplugging your router from the internet and power for a few hours. Google can give you better reading material. The key is to not let the old router renew it's lease. However you release the lease, make sure you are not live on the internet when you power up old router.
I missed your provider but unless your on fios it should be pretty easy to hook up your own router. Maybe explain what you want out if your setup? Like more range? Better NAT performance? Might be better to provide some feedback. Good luck!
I have comcast/xfinity, the settings page is http://10.0.0.1.

The bridge mode that disables the router is different from this? Part of me doesn't even want to mess with it currently, just because it's working. But I could connect to either one. I currently have 3 different wifi networks, the normal modem/router and the Nighthawk 2.4 & 5.
 
I have comcast/xfinity, the settings page is http://10.0.0.1.

The bridge mode that disables the router is different from this? Part of me doesn't even want to mess with it currently, just because it's working. But I could connect to either one. I currently have 3 different wifi networks, the normal modem/router and the Nighthawk 2.4 & 5.
It might vary depending on your modem and it's been a couple years since I looked into this, but I'm pretty sure you have to call Comcast and have them enable bridge mode on their end. It doesn't always work right however, and if for any reason your modem loses power, it resets this and you have to call them and go through the whole process AGAIN.

I researched this thoroughly back when I upped my speeds from ~50mbps to 150mbps. I needed a modem upgrade to a Docsis 3.0 that supported the higher speed, and they initially gave me one of their garbage built in WiFi modems (a Motorola one I believe). The WiFi speeds on it were trash, something like 7mbps when I'm sitting right next to the thing, and it would frequently throttle or disconnect altogether. It would also not pump proper speeds through my own router, and there were crosstalk issues despite using different channels. It was just shit all around. I tried several times to get them to enable bridge mode, but it never worked right when they did it, and as I said before, it would reset if I unplugged the modem or lost power. I ended up researching what plain jane modems Comcast supplied and at the time I think there was only one, the Arris TM822. I called several times to complain about my issues and to request this specific modem as a replacement, but supposedly you're subject to whatever the tech has on hand. I was ready to throw down over this shit, but luckily the tech came with the one I wanted, and all my issues were alleviated immediately.

tl;dr Comcast sucks ass and most of their modems are garbage. Even when working correctly, you probably aren't getting proper speeds, and it will likely throttle whatever router you have. This may have changed in more recent years, and I hope for your sake it has, but if not, get a non WiFi enabled modem, either by complaining to support, or flat out buying your own.

 
This will be my last off topic post.

Not sure the model of the modem but from my understanding it's a better one. My speeds aren't too bad, especially considering I came from Frontier(dsl). When I goto my router settings there's a option to Enable Bridge Mode, but afterwards I don't get any internet through the new router at all. Maybe it has something to do with the fact I'm trying to edit the settings while on wifi. So while turning on bridge mode, it kicks me straight out of the settings.
 
This will be my last off topic post.

Not sure the model of the modem but from my understanding it's a better one. My speeds aren't too bad, especially considering I came from Frontier(dsl). When I goto my router settings there's a option to Enable Bridge Mode, but afterwards I don't get any internet through the new router at all. Maybe it has something to do with the fact I'm trying to edit the settings while on wifi. So while turning on bridge mode, it kicks me straight out of the settings.
Can't you buy a new modem? One that doesn't have the router built in? I know it's an added cost but may be easier than trying to do what you talking about.

Another option is to install ddwrt on that nitehawk and through it into repeater mode. Have the ssids the same name and pretty much if you go. You get the extra wifi range and don't have to mess with to much. I have same router but o have Verizon. When I was 25/25 I had an older router that I bridged and used the nitehawk for my router. Worked fine. Router was in basement so while better, the range wasn't great When I upgraded, they gave me a newer router. This one I left alone and kept my nitehawk boxed up. I just hooked up the hawk upstairs in repeater mode. Now, I have super strong WiFi all upstairs and out in the yard, where I never had it on the old Verizon router bridged.

When I'm in basement,I'm on Verizon router. When I get near the Hawks wifi, i pick up that router.

If you have apple devices, this happens seamless. It your Android, you'll need an app that switches to strongest access point.
 
I found Mario Tennis Open for 3DS for $5. Brickseek showed it being the only Walmart in San Diego County that had it.
 
Brickseek has said that my Walmart has 2 copies of LittleBigPlanet 3 for PS4 for $5, but they're nowhere to be found. Now it's dropped to $2.50  :wall:

Doesn't it mean they HAVE to be somewhere in the store for them to have brought down the price? Getting employees to do anything remotely helpful in this store is like pulling teeth. I feel like they're right in the back but no employee will ever go check for me

 
Brickseek has said that my Walmart has 2 copies of LittleBigPlanet 3 for PS4 for $5, but they're nowhere to be found. Now it's dropped to $2.50 :wall:

Doesn't it mean they HAVE to be somewhere in the store for them to have brought down the price? Getting employees to do anything remotely helpful in this store is like pulling teeth. I feel like they're right in the back but no employee will ever go check for me
Inventory can be off for a variety of reasons just like everyone looking for the microsd cards that have quantities all over the place but nowhere to be found.

 
Inventory can be off for a variety of reasons just like everyone looking for the microsd cards that have quantities all over the place but nowhere to be found.
Right but for the employees to further drop the price of an item, don't they have to actually have the item on hand to scan it into their price changer gun thing?

 
Right but for the employees to further drop the price of an item, don't they have to actually have the item on hand to scan it into their price changer gun thing?
Target does, not sure about Walmart. When I got the last clearance samsung 128 gig microsd card from my store, the price still dropped further on brickseek, and still shows 3 quantity. Something obviously off.

 
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Right but for the employees to further drop the price of an item, don't they have to actually have the item on hand to scan it into their price changer gun thing?
Clearance prices at Walmart can both be an automatic price drop and made manually by the store. So an automatic price drop doesn't need employee interaction. I believe the automatic price drop stops when the item goes out of stock, but since there's still stock in the system the automatic drop can keep happening.

Sometimes you find stuff on brickseek for a certain price but the label on the store shelf is a different price. Usually if you go to a price checker, it will be the brickseek price. That's because an automatic price drop happened and either the store didn't print their price change lablels or nobody installed the auto price change labels.

 
Brickseek has said that my Walmart has 2 copies of LittleBigPlanet 3 for PS4 for $5, but they're nowhere to be found. Now it's dropped to $2.50 :wall:

Doesn't it mean they HAVE to be somewhere in the store for them to have brought down the price? Getting employees to do anything remotely helpful in this store is like pulling teeth. I feel like they're right in the back but no employee will ever go check for me
They should have them but it's always a 25% chance finding someone who would actually look to see if they have it in the back and take there time. I suggest befriending someone at walmart lol.
 
yeah they still have a few things like wireless ac 1900 routest for 25 like 7 razer keyboards for $10 yesterday i got 2 logitech gaming 710+ keyboards for 15 these retail for $100 and my brother found 3 fairpoint vr aim guns with game for 20 each lol
Does he want to sale one of those farpoint bundles?
 
My local Walmart today had a huge price error. I ended up picking up injustice 2 for 15.84, I thought it had something to do with sony's sale going on but I guess reflecting on it probably just a price error....
 
My local Walmart today had a huge price error. I ended up picking up injustice 2 for 15.84, I thought it had something to do with sony's sale going on but I guess reflecting on it probably just a price error....
Did you notice there were a lot of copies? Trying to figure out if Injustice 2 are oos everywhere or if it just have problem showing up in Walmart system. BS couldn't get inventory count for Persona 5 the 1st month when it first released

Sent from my SM-N900 using Tapatalk
 
Did you notice there were a lot of copies? Trying to figure out if Injustice 2 are oos everywhere or if it just have problem showing up in Walmart system. BS couldn't get inventory count for Persona 5 the 1st month when it first released
Sent from my SM-N900 using Tapatalk
They had alot in stock but cashier was having problems getting it to scan. Had to type up code in and then it came up in system.
 
First-time poster here...thanks to all for this absolute goldmine of knowledge! It is very much appreciated.

My local Walmart today had a huge price error. I ended up picking up injustice 2 for 15.84, I thought it had something to do with sony's sale going on but I guess reflecting on it probably just a price error....
This must have been a mix-up on their system, because I bought the original Injustice Ultimate Edition for $15.84 at the Walmart in Simi Valley, CA on Saturday...maybe it had the original game's SKU label posted on it by mistake?

 
Ugh....checked one of my local stores to see if they had the Jaybird Freedom's on sale and they weren't ringing up on clearance even though both the Walmart App and Brickseek showed the price. :(

 
Hey guys, I remember seeing a deal pages back about a really good deal on a really good usb stick or memory card for the Nintendo Switch. Does anyone recall what that item was? Possibly a link to the post or the brickseek page? Thanks.

 
Ugh....checked one of my local stores to see if they had the Jaybird Freedom's on sale and they weren't ringing up on clearance even though both the Walmart App and Brickseek showed the price. :(
In my experience this happens when they are scanning the clearance tag and not the actual UPC on the product itself.

 
my walmart has ge branded 6ft hdmi cables for $1 each, sku 52163259
Nice find! My local stores have them as low as $3, but that's still a good price.

http://brickseek.com/walmart-inventory-checker?sku=52163259

https://www.walmart.com/ip/GE-33574-GE-HDMI-Cable-6-Gold/52163259

About this item

Disclaimer: While we aim to provide accurate product information, it is provided by manufacturers, suppliers and others, and has not been verified by us. See our disclaimer.
Easily connect your HDMI compatible devices such as your DVD/ Blu-ray players, cable and satellite boxes and game consoles to your HDTV using the GE HDMI Cable. This cable allows you to view video in full HD for all brands in one connection. For HDTVs, this cable is certified for 1080p Full HD and 4K Ultra HD (when applicable). The gold-plated connectors provide the highest quality signal for today's digital audio and video equipment. This HDMI cable also supports Deep Color and is 3D compatible for a superior viewing experience. 5.1- and 7.1-channel surround sound is supported and the 10.2 Gbps provides a superior high speed connection. The cable features a simple plug-and-play application and has a flexible design to meet your needs. This product is backed by a limited lifetime warranty.
GE HDMI Cable, 6':

  • Certified 1080p HD and 4K and 2K Ultra HD
  • Capable of transmitting Deep Color and is 3D compatible
  • Supports 5.1 and 7.1 channel surround sound
  • HDMI to HDMI
  • Premium gold plated connectors
  • Cable length: 6'
  • Limited lifetime warranty

Because the packaging mentions "High Speed with Ethernet", this is at least an HDMI 1.4 cable (and probably no newer than that), which means it could do 4K video at 30Hz or 60Hz (HDMI 2.0) or 120 HZ (HDMI 2.1).

What is interesting is that my closest Walmart shows OOS, while www.walmart.com shows I could pick them up today from that same store. :whistle2:k

 
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Nice find! My local stores have them as low as $3, but that's still a good price.

Because the packaging mentions "High Speed with Ethernet", this is at least an HDMI 1.4 cable (and probably no newer than that), which means it could do 4K video at 30Hz or 60Hz (HDMI 2.0) or 120 HZ (HDMI 2.1).
thank you for posting the link and the extensive details :D that was my first post so I couldn't link it myself

 
I found a Vizio 55 inch through brickseek for as low as $124. Sadly the only ones in my area are $240. If any of you guys have it near you for $124, I'll buy it for cost plus shipping. Sku is 45419476
 
I found a Vizio 55 inch through brickseek for as low as $124. Sadly the only ones in my area are $240. If any of you guys have it near you for $124, I'll buy it for cost plus shipping. Sku is 45419476
One store near me shows there might be one at $124, but really you'd be better picking it up for $240. Shipping and tax are going to make it about the same price in the end I would think.

 
One store near me shows there might be one at $124, but really you'd be better picking it up for $240. Shipping and tax are going to make it about the same price in the end I would think.
I imagine it would be around 200 with tax and shipping. Could be wrong, never shipped something that big.
 
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