Steam+ Deals Mega Thread (All PC Gaming Deals)

Neuro5i5

Neuro5i5

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This thread will attempt to provide a place to discuss past/present/future PC gaming deals. While mainly focusing on Steam games, any standout sales may also be presented. I will not be updating every Daily/Weekly/etc. sale. The tools to help individuals become a smarter shopper will be provided below.

See this POST for links to store sale pages, threads of interest and other tools to help you become a more informed PC game shopper.
 
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spoderman said:
Oh and don't forget to grab a $15 PS4 controller if you haven't yet. Even if you own a decent controller they're a good backup for platforming/fighting games.

Most of the good colors are sold out, but there are a few colors left. You need to apply the $10 off code in the FB app to get it for $15, which you probably have if you haven't bought anything from Facebook marketplace before.
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Tried my main account, my old account from forever ago, and even my gf's account. None had used Marketplace before, and there was no mobile discount. And people on SD were reporting having bought stuff on there earlier in the week and still getting it, so it's more targeted than people think.

 
Blade said:
Tried my main account, my old account from forever ago, and even my gf's account. None had used Marketplace before, and there was no mobile discount. And people on SD were reporting having bought stuff on there earlier in the week and still getting it, so it's more targeted than people think.
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Did you use the app? Discount wouldn't pop up in chrome on the phone but did in the app.
 
BossKey_Fox said:
Did you use the app? Discount wouldn't pop up in chrome on the phone but did in the app.
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I tried Android phone, Kindle Fire, and also on Bluestacks, one account for each. Went to Marketplace and scrolled forever trying to find it. I was trying to get it earlier today for the $30 Smash Ultimate deal since I just bought a Switch, but eventually I gave up and bought the game without the coupon. Not sure why I didn't get it, but meh. $10 less for me to spend on shovelware to get added to my 8000 game Steam backlog...

 
Blade said:
I tried Android phone, Kindle Fire, and also on Bluestacks, one account for each. Went to Marketplace and scrolled forever trying to find it. I was trying to get it earlier today for the $30 Smash Ultimate deal since I just bought a Switch, but eventually I gave up and bought the game without the coupon. Not sure why I didn't get it, but meh. $10 less for me to spend on shovelware to get added to my 8000 game Steam backlog...
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Probably is targetted, I got the offer on two throwaway alts that I created years ago. Don't get what the requirements are

 
Blade said:
I tried Android phone, Kindle Fire, and also on Bluestacks, one account for each. Went to Marketplace and scrolled forever trying to find it. I was trying to get it earlier today for the $30 Smash Ultimate deal since I just bought a Switch, but eventually I gave up and bought the game without the coupon. Not sure why I didn't get it, but meh. $10 less for me to spend on shovelware to get added to my 8000 game Steam backlog...
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Worked if you had iphone and updated the FB app to the newest version

 
With Tremor Games going kaput, I decided to check out my codes.  Seems I had a few duplicate buys here and there.  These are at least a couple years old, so no clue if they still work.  Here goes nothing.

War in a Box - Paper Tanks:  H36V7-258N7-BVC5Y

Depths of Peril: 9H33T-F9I38-EA89Q  (this one had a little question mark in a black diamond at end.  No clue what that means)

Avencast: Rise of the Mage:  BN60T-NZ5FY-PR4J3

Timberman: E5PNN-8WXH4-RB55G

 
boneless said:
Anyone has experience with seagate firecuda? I was going to recycle my 3tb wd from my old system but a 2tb firecuda for $80 at Amazon seems like a good price. 8gb NAND.
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I've had good luck with the laptop versions of them. I put one in my PS4. I'm not too sold on how well the 8gb ssd works for speed boosting but overall a solid drive.

 
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I have not played Call of Duty franchise.  Do they generally have a decent SP campaign?  Since Spoder pointed out the cdkeys has the titles for about $5, it is time to consider.

 
waabulo said:
I have not played Call of Duty franchise. Do they generally have a decent SP campaign? Since Spoder pointed out the cdkeys has the titles for about $5, it is time to consider.
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They're ridiculous and over the top but typically pretty fun. Keep in mind they are very short. Like 4-9 hours depending on the game.

Also Modern Warfare 1, if on sale, has probably the best campaign of the bunch.

 
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waabulo said:
I have not played Call of Duty franchise. Do they generally have a decent SP campaign? Since Spoder pointed out the cdkeys has the titles for about $5, it is time to consider.
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Normally, yes.

I've played a good deal of them - since the original CoD.

Definitely check out Campaign for COD: Modern Warfare 1 (regular or remastered). It's awesome.

MW1+2 are probably the best COD SP Campaigns in the entire franchise.

EDIT:

I liked MW3, but...it ain't as awesome as MW1+2. MW1 has the best story & characters of the club - but MW2 is probably the most boom-bastic and action-packed of those 2.

I liked Black Ops 1+2's Campaigns quite a bit - but I still prefer MW1+2.

Haven't got around to BO3's campaign yet.

 
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It's very hard to top COD4: MW. That game's SP campaign and MP were both so groundbreaking when they came out, for the military FPS genre.

Don't get me wrong here. COD1+2 and MOH:AA were great - but MW1 blows them all away.

Hell, even if you go online w/ the MP for COD4: MW (regular) - you can still find tons playing the MP, once you install the COD4X MP Mod/Client.

 
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I bought the CoDs I was missing from cdkeys. I figured $4-5 each is worth it for the short singleplayer campaigns. Just make sure you check the region. Some of them are locked to EU
 
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Walmart has Pillars of Eternity 2: Deadfire for $19.99. There aren't many of them per store, but there were a few near me.

 
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I caved and made my first seedy keys purchase earlier today.  Found it very strange that my download link took me to a low quality image.  It was a picture of the case insert that came in Dishonored 2: Outsider.  Code worked fine but I felt like I needed to take a shower afterwards.

 
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spoderman said:
It's $13.19 on cdkeys before 3% off coupon (CDKDEAL3)
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Thanks for adding that. Unfortunately, I already bought it today at Walmart. I have yet to dip into the murky waters of seedy keys, though I've been tempted by some of their oddly low prices.

I suppose I'll just consider it a $6 key insurance.

 
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Seedykeys has been having some good deals this BF.  $3.xx for Lego Marvel 2 with SP.  13.xx for Shadow of War Gold.  Razer has some decent deals with their razer exclusive with coupons and ebates cb if you want to go the non seedy route. 

 
I feel like this was discussed earlier, but is Shadow of War worth the Gold upgrade or will vanilla work, as the base game is only ~$9?

Also, Scamble took my Cthulhu back :,(

 
eulogywerd21 said:
I feel like this was discussed earlier, but is Shadow of War worth the Gold upgrade or will vanilla work, as the base game is only ~$9?

Also, Scamble took my Cthulhu back :,(
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Yeah. If you buy the game, then buy the gold. But I would save your money. The game is a grindfest meant to make you spend more money.

 
Pretty sure 7OT is the highest I've ever seen. Was flipping back and forth from that and the Boise/Utah game, was a crazy ending.
 
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Yeah 7OT is as high as anybody has went.  Part of me wanted this one to keep going, part of me wanted it to end before they had a longer game than we have had.  I'm an Arkansas Razorbacks fan.  I've actually been to TWO 7OT games, Ole Miss in 2001 and Kentucky in 2003.  They were also the first two games to reach seven overtimes.  The game against Ole Miss was when Eli Manning was there and that game was SO long, I was dead at the end and I was in the damn stands.  I can not imagine what it felt like to be a defensive player in that game.  

This game was the fifth game to reach 7OTs, but it set a different record as the highest scoring game in FBS history.  

 
Has anyone had Win10 activation issues when installing new hardware? Realized as soon as I walked out of Microcenter, that I have not done any serious hardware modifications to my 'puter since Win7. Then I found a couple of horror stories, on reddit maybe, about people installing new mobos/cpu/etc, being forced to reinstall Win10 and then the system won't activate properly, forcing you to buy another key. Microshart has polluted the backend with so many update mistakes and useless anti consumer garbage, I'm thinking about maybe starting fresh instead of potentially fuck ing up a perfectly functioning rig.
 
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eulogywerd21 said:
Has anyone had Win10 activation issues when installing new hardware? Realized as soon as I walked out of Microcenter, that I have not done any serious hardware modifications to my 'puter since Win7. Then I found a couple of horror stories, on reddit maybe, about people installing new mobos/cpu/etc, being forced to reinstall Win10 and then the system won't activate properly, forcing you to buy another key. Microshart has polluted the backend with so many update mistakes and useless anti consumer garbage, I'm thinking about maybe starting fresh instead of potentially fuck ing up a perfectly functioning rig.
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https://www.windowscentral.com/how-re-activate-windows-10-after-hardware-change

TL;DR - Link your Microsoft account to your WIndows 10 license (Settings -> Update & Security -> Activation -> Add a Microsoft Account). Then when you put together your new PC, go through the W10 Activation Troubleshooter. Follow the steps and you should be good to go.

 
WinGameStore:

Bioshock: The Collection [Steam key] = 82% off at $10.60

Includes the following:

  • Bioshock 1
  • Bioshock 2 (base-game)
  • Bioshock 2: Minerva's Den (DLC)
  • Bioshock: Infinite (base-game)
  • Bioshock: Infinite - Season Pass
  • Remasters of Bioshock 1 and Bioshock 2 with its DLC's are included
Multiplayer for BioShock 2 is NOT included period.

 
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Insomniac_34 said:
https://www.windowscentral.com/how-re-activate-windows-10-after-hardware-change

TL;DR - Link your Microsoft account to your WIndows 10 license (Settings -> Update & Security -> Activation -> Add a Microsoft Account). Then when you put together your new PC, go through the W10 Activation Troubleshooter. Follow the steps and you should be good to go.
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Some other stuff I read said that if you originally bought Windows 7 for your older system and then made use of the free upgrade then you couldn't transfer that version of Windows 10 to another system and needed to buy an 'actual' copy of Windows 10.

 
Insomniac_34 said:
https://www.windowscentral.com/how-re-activate-windows-10-after-hardware-change

TL;DR - Link your Microsoft account to your WIndows 10 license (Settings -> Update & Security -> Activation -> Add a Microsoft Account). Then when you put together your new PC, go through the W10 Activation Troubleshooter. Follow the steps and you should be good to go.
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It is, but I still worry. House that Gates built doesn't fill me with confidence concerning anything they do these days. Really put the OS in pOS.
 
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Mooby said:
Some other stuff I read said that if you originally bought Windows 7 for your older system and then made use of the free upgrade then you couldn't transfer that version of Windows 10 to another system and needed to buy an 'actual' copy of Windows 10.
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Pretty confident this exactly what I did. fuck ing shyster bastards
 
Mooby said:
Some other stuff I read said that if you originally bought Windows 7 for your older system and then made use of the free upgrade then you couldn't transfer that version of Windows 10 to another system and needed to buy an 'actual' copy of Windows 10.
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It depends on what the original version of win7 was. If it was on OEM copy that came with that PC then yes, the win10 version is locked to that PC. If it was a retail copy, then no its a floating copy you can use on any build. They issued me a whole second win10 license for free because they couldnt figure out their own system with my retail win7pro->win10pro license and had to give me a new one

Insomniac_34 said:
https://www.windowscentral.com/how-re-activate-windows-10-after-hardware-change

TL;DR - Link your Microsoft account to your WIndows 10 license (Settings -> Update & Security -> Activation -> Add a Microsoft Account). Then when you put together your new PC, go through the W10 Activation Troubleshooter. Follow the steps and you should be good to go.
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That also forces you to login to your pc with your MS account. If you prefer to use a local account you are SOL

 
sasquatc4 said:
It depends on what the original version of win7 was. If it was on OEM copy that came with that PC then yes, the win10 version is locked to that PC. If it was a retail copy, then no its a floating copy you can use on any build. They issued me a whole second win10 license for free because they couldnt figure out their own system with my retail win7pro->win10pro license and had to give me a new one

That also forces you to login to your pc with your MS account. If you prefer to use a local account you are SOL
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Would OEM status be indicated on the system (settings or something like that) or is it just something I'll have to remember (which I'm not really sure about).

Never mind, found my old Windows 8.1 box and it is, in fact, the full version.

Also, yeah... seems like even if it's Home and not OEM then you still have to activate a Microsoft Account to make use of the transfer... which I dunno is worth saving $100!

 
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Mooby said:
Would OEM status be indicated on the system (settings or something like that) or is it just something I'll have to remember (which I'm not really sure about).

Never mind, found my old Windows 8.1 box and it is, in fact, the full version.

Also, yeah... seems like even if it's Home and not OEM then you still have to activate a Microsoft Account to make use of the transfer... which I dunno is worth saving $100!
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y did u use Windows 8
 
Mooby said:
Would OEM status be indicated on the system (settings or something like that) or is it just something I'll have to remember (which I'm not really sure about).

Never mind, found my old Windows 8.1 box and it is, in fact, the full version.

Also, yeah... seems like even if it's Home and not OEM then you still have to activate a Microsoft Account to make use of the transfer... which I dunno is worth saving $100!
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Well you dont have to use the MS account, but if you dont you will have to be on the phone/chat with them for 10min+ while they issue you a proper license. I dont use a MS account to login which is how I found all this out

 
sasquatc4 said:
Well you dont have to use the MS account, but if you dont you will have to be on the phone/chat with them for 10min+ while they issue you a proper license. I dont use a MS account to login which is how I found all this out
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I guess you have to 'deactivate' the license on the current computer before you can activate on the new one?

 
Mooby said:
I guess you have to 'deactivate' the license on the current computer before you can activate on the new one?
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Maybe? I dont know if there is an easy way for the customer to do that though. Either way Ive always had to call them to activate, usually it was automated but this time I had to talk to someone while they sorted it out. Since probably the majority of home users just use an OEM license that came with their computer its not something that comes up all that often

 
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