The Ultimate 'Build-A-PC' Thread. Complete With Pricings & Recommendations (06/06/10)

Yeah I don't care about how it looks - I don't have a windowed case, lights or any of that stuff. I just want the airflow to not be blocked.

As someone who has been a Mac user since 2007/8 I am enjoying Windows 10. I sold my MacBook pro which completely covered the price of this build and I have a little left over.

My biggest annoyance so far is the stock CPU cooler is quite loud. Coming from a completely silent MacBook it drives me nuts!

I went into the bios and changed it to "silent mode" but its pretty loud still. Maybe i'll just buy a coolmaster 212 cooler later during the summer.

 
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Stock fans are crap.  An aftermarket cooler will help although sometimes the fans that come with those are cheap as well so you still wind up buying a new 120mm fan for the radiator.  I'm a big fan of the Cougar Vortex fans but I'm sure others have their own favorites.

 
Another thing I want to ask about is having more than one hard drive. 
 
I have a 120GB SSD which I installed the OS and some programs. That is all fine.
 
I put a 1TB in for files and games. I went into settings and changed everythings location to B:. But the drive is really messy.. My SSD has "program files" and "prorgramfiles(x86)" folders, while my 1TB is just all random.
 
Another thing with the 1TB. I also purchased an album on iTunes, went into music and searched the music folder - no results.. I had to click on B: - search - then it showed up. So have I set something wrong up here? 
 
I took screenshots in case none of this makes any sense! linkhttp://imgur.com/a/eWKVd
 
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thenexus6 said:
Another thing I want to ask about is having more than one hard drive.

I have a 120GB SSD which I installed the OS and some programs. That is all fine.

I put a 1TB in for files and games. I went into settings and changed everythings location to B:. But the drive is really messy.. My SSD has "program files" and "prorgramfiles(x86)" folders, while my 1TB is just all random.

Another thing with the 1TB. I also purchased an album on iTunes, went into music and searched the music folder - no results.. I had to click on B: - search - then it showed up. So have I set something wrong up here?

I took screenshots in case none of this makes any sense! linkhttp://imgur.com/a/eWKVd
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I'm not really sure about your first concern, but I think it has to do with installing apps into the B: drive instead of a folder inside the B: drive. You can specify where to install the CPU-Z and STEAM folder when you are configuring the install.

Regarding your second concern, you have to add the folder to your music library. Check out this link and see if it helps:

http://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/8811-library-include-folder-windows-10-a.html

 
Hello guys, I am building my first PC & here are the specs/parts. Disregard the total (after some deals etc I have paid $580 total). I just need to purchase Windows 10. Please advise where I can find it as cheap as possible. Thanks! I'm excited to get building.

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Bnd723
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Bnd723/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($112.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI B150M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($54.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($38.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Toshiba P300 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 380 4GB NITRO Dual-X OC Video Card ($174.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($17.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($85.49 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($248.00 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Logitech Solar Keyboard K750 for Mac Wireless Slim Keyboard ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $966.18
 
"As cheap as possible"?  There's some Reddit group that trafficks in cheap Windows keys.  I'm not being coy in not mentioning the name, I just don't know it off the top of my head.  But they supposedly have the sellers locked down to some trusted people so it beats buying it off eBay or Craigslist or something.

 
Syntax Error said:
"As cheap as possible"? There's some Reddit group that trafficks in cheap Windows keys. I'm not being coy in not mentioning the name, I just don't know it off the top of my head. But they supposedly have the sellers locked down to some trusted people so it beats buying it off eBay or Craigslist or something.
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Thanks, I was able to get Best Buy to price match a OEM copy of Windows 10 for the full retail version of 10. :D/

Here is the finalized build.


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $180.00)
Motherboard: MSI B150M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (Purchased For $25.00)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (Purchased For $35.00)
Storage: PNY CS1311 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $60.00)
Storage: Toshiba P300 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $40.00)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 380 4GB NITRO Dual-X OC Video Card (Purchased For $175.00)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $45.00)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $20.00)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer (Purchased For $15.00)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full - USB (32/64-bit) (Purchased For $90.00)
Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor (Purchased For $130.00)
Keyboard: Logitech Solar Keyboard K750 for Mac Wireless Slim Keyboard (Purchased For $30.00)
Total: $845.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-13 22:34 EDT-0400

 
So I have 8GB of ram (2x4GB dual channel). I want to step up to at least 16GB. What is the best way to do this? Should I get another matched set of 2x4GB (matched to each other not matched to the original pair), just get an extra single 8GB stick, or is it really best to just eat the cost and get a 16GB set?

BTW, would Bad Things Happen (TM) if I put a 2x8GB set in the second channel along side by existing 2x4GB set (and yes, I know I'd have to account for speeds timings yada, yada, yada)?

 
I asked on the PC build thread on neogaf, figured i'd ask here too..

My friend is extremely close to pulling the trigger on a new build. He wants a build for gaming, video editing / after effects / VR. His budget is upto £1000.

Now the biggest thing is the GPU.. With new cards on the horizon I guess its better for him to buy a stop gap card and wait and see how the new cards unfold right? Even then stuff like the 980 or TI will drop in price. What card would be good as a wait and see option? Something cheap like a 750TIi or 950?

He really wants to get into VR but I feel like the 980 tier is too expensive, and the 970 might not be good enough to run VR games 100% well..

Here are some parts that've been put together: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/Bt9QCJ

Anything else to consider? Thanks!

 
Why 3x 1 TB caviar blues? What's the intended purpose? If it's for RAIDing, Blue seems like a weird choice. If it's for storage, 3x 1 TB is a weird choice.

I'd pick one larger drive if it's for storage, or larger SSD if it's for RAIDing.

I don't know if 32 GB RAM helps much with video editing, but RAM used to matter a whole lot with video editing. I don't know if there's diminishing returns when it's that large already.

I think the 760 is the best bang for the buck GeForce card; better than the 950 at a similar price point.

 
Posted this on Reddit, but figured I'd get some more opinions here as well.

As a first time PC builder, I just put this together tonight. I think it looks solid, but would like an extra set of eyes on it.

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/7MHRGf

Main goal with the PC is to be able to record gameplay footage via an Elgato capture card along with some minor editing (at least starting off). The specs seem a bit overkill for what the Elgato itself requires, but figured I'd be able to do some light PC gaming on the side as well for when some indies and such don't come over to consoles.

Not sure if I should add a second fan to the case or not. I'm under the belief that since I don't plan on overclocking and there's plenty of space in the case, I should be good on that front.

Edit: Replaced the link with a new one suggested by one of the guys on Reddit. Close to the original build but improves the CPU and PSU at the cost of the GPU. Granted, the Sapphire was probably overkill.

 
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INMATEofARKHAM said:
Frankly, since your not over clocking anything or doing high end editing/gaming an aftermarket CPU fan is overkill. OEM should be fine.
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I was under the impression OEM was fine as well, but that was one of the suggestions from Reddit. Since it's only $25, I'd think protecting the CPU might be worth it?

If I stick with the OEM and decide to upgrade the fan later, how much trouble is it to replace? Seems like it could be messy with the removal and reapplying of thermal paste?

 
Jess Stryker said:
If I stick with the OEM and decide to upgrade the fan later, how much trouble is it to replace? Seems like it could be messy with the removal and reapplying of thermal paste?
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It's really not that much trouble... Granted, I've been around the insides of PC since 1997. I use to troubleshoot (hardware and software) PCs for the Navy and I've only seen once were an aftermarket CPU cooler was needed on a stock machine. 1000s of machines so the odds are you'll be just fine.

Every PC I've ever owned (built them all myself) has had a stock cooler. Intel/AMD wouldn't be doing themselves any favors by skimping on the only piece of equipment that they can design/control that protects their warranty.

That said it's 25 bucks. Not a bad price for peace of mind. (I myself do use an aftermarket thermal paste by the name of Arctic Silver so we all get peace of mind somewhere. :) )
 
INMATEofARKHAM said:
It's really not that much trouble... Granted, I've been around the insides of PC since 1997. I use to troubleshoot (hardware and software) PCs for the Navy and I've only seen once were an aftermarket CPU cooler was needed on a stock machine. 1000s of machines so the odds are you'll be just fine.

Every PC I've ever owned (built them all myself) has had a stock cooler. Intel/AMD wouldn't be doing themselves any favors by skimping on the only piece of equipment that they can design/control that protects their warranty.

That said it's 25 bucks. Not a bad price for peace of mind. (I myself do use an aftermarket thermal paste by the name of Arctic Silver so we all get peace of mind somewhere. :) )
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If memory serves correctly, I believe the CPU fan (or hard drive) is what's failed most of my older computers first, and I've had some loud fans as well, so will probably go with the peace of mind thinking about it. Having looked at a few videos, I presume the "dot" method is best when applying the thermal paste?

Also, something else that popped up. Was mentioned to me that the MSI Radeon R7 360 is 20% better presumably than the 750 ti. But when looking at benchmarks and reading recommendations, it appears the 750 Ti is better? Is there something I'm missing?

 
The ATI and NVidia benchmarks aren't consistent, depending on what they're benchmarking with. For example, ATI might handle Battlefield and Tomb Raider much better, but Nvidia might handle Witcher 3 and Overwatch better (just examples, may or may not be the actual results).

Consoles use ATI, so it wouldn't be out of the realm of imagination that PC games of console ports would work better on ATI. But NVidia pumps a lot of money into PC games, so a lot of games are therefore optimized for NVidia on PC (e.g. Borderlands).

What's the time frame for the setup? Since the new generation cards are out, I'm not sure I can recommend a 750 ti personally.

As for the fans... I'd get a second case fan before the CPU fan. Setting up a good airflow in the case is one of the best things you can do, and extremely cheap to do. Top back exhaust fan has been shown to be the most beneficial, then you would have one at the front somewhere to blow in.

Third-party CPU fans are great, but I mostly use one because they're silent. I can only hear mine start up, and then I can't hear a thing.

 
That would explain why some sites claimed the MSI was better and others the GTX was better, so that clears that up at least.

For setup, I'd like to purchase the parts soon and build within the next month. I know some new cards come out I believe tomorrow and did see a lot of recommendations to wait until the 480 was out, but if I can get a decent enough video card for ~$80, it beats spending over $200 for one, even if it is newer. If it turns out I end up doing a lot more PC gaming in the future, I figure I can easily upgrade the GPU at that time (and there will probably be something even better and/or cheaper by then).

Didn't think about the secondary case fan. Since only one person recommended the CPU fan (strangely enough no one mentioned a secondary case fan), may go that route instead. If I find it does run hot for whatever reason, the CPU fan is cheap enough and at least I have one model to keep my eye on.

 
Jess Stryker said:
Posted this on Reddit, but figured I'd get some more opinions here as well.

As a first time PC builder, I just put this together tonight. I think it looks solid, but would like an extra set of eyes on it.

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/7MHRGf

Main goal with the PC is to be able to record gameplay footage via an Elgato capture card along with some minor editing (at least starting off). The specs seem a bit overkill for what the Elgato itself requires, but figured I'd be able to do some light PC gaming on the side as well for when some indies and such don't come over to consoles.

Not sure if I should add a second fan to the case or not. I'm under the belief that since I don't plan on overclocking and there's plenty of space in the case, I should be good on that front.

Edit: Replaced the link with a new one suggested by one of the guys on Reddit. Close to the original build but improves the CPU and PSU at the cost of the GPU. Granted, the Sapphire was probably overkill.
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If you want my advice, and you should cuz I'm a brony, I might ditch the intel chip for an AMD one. You'll save a ton of money (with say a FX 6300) that you could put into say an SSD. $100 would buy you around a 480GB SSD. You'll likely feel the difference in the video editing, though it may be not a lot of space depending on how much you want to game.

I do agree that if you don't overclock you will be fine with the stock fan and save a little money. Not sure about Intel, but AMD has been stepping up their game with the stock fans lately. You could even spend a little for a second case fan (maybe $10ish). It's always good to have one intake and one exhaust.

The last thing to consider is maybe going cheaper on the video card. I don't know much about elgato and reading the system specs it says nothing about GFX requirements so I assume the unit itself does most of the video processing so the gfx card is not as important? You could go way cheaper for a card right now and get something functional. I was using an AMD Radeon 65XX card up until recently and it will run most indie games just fine. I think you can get some of those in the $30 to $40 range. We're sort of in between generations right now so I just wonder if the 750s will be dropping even more or if you wait it out you might be able to get even more bang for your buck in the $100 range. The 750 is a great card, but I just wonder if it'll drop more or you might be able to get something a little newer if you wait a bit. I think the 950s seem to be creeping closer to $100ish lately.

Also, LED lights. Put obnoxious LED lights everywhere you can! The thing should glow like kryptonite when you turn it on.

 
So with the free Win 10 upgrade date coming up soon, do you guys recommend upgrading? 

It seems like Win 10 has lots of benefits but it also seems like MS is collecting a lot of data which is worrying some people (then again, seems like a lot of the big tech companies are collecting data). 

I'm on Win 7 right now and it's being supported for another 3-4 years, and am happy with it but not sure if Win 10 would be better. I've heard stories of the "revert" option for Win 10 not go so well so I don't wanna do the trail either unless it's safe/easy to revert. 

 
Finalized Part List.

Only thing that changed from my initial list is the video card as I was able to get a 950 GTX for about $100 which seemed like a solid deal. Plus if I ever decide to play Warframe, I got a $100 code for that as well. Also am using the CPU stock cooler for now. Wanted to save the Cryorig H7 though, so I had an idea of what to look for if I go the aftermarket route in the future.

Got everything up and running for the first time last weekend with the exception of the GPU. Turns out that was defective, so instead of exchanging it via online and having it take 1-2 weeks, I opted to drive to Rockville to the closest Micro Center. GPU runs well now (and seems to have done well on the bench mark using uEngine). Reminded me how much I hate DC traffic though.

One question I have though. While at Micro Center, figured I'd go ahead and buy a case fan and went with the Cooler Master 120 JetFlo. Problem is, when I unboxed it, the screws are only maybe half the size of the fan itself. Unless I'm supposed to screw in from the back (through the case into the fan instead of vice versa), something seems off here unless I'm missing something.

 
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Jess Stryker said:
One question I have though. While at Micro Center, figured I'd go ahead and buy a case fan and went with the Cooler Master 120 JetFlo. Problem is, when I unboxed it, the screws are only maybe half the size of the fan itself. Unless I'm supposed to screw in from the back (through the case into the fan instead of vice versa), something seems off here unless I'm missing something.
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Most fans either have some sort of bracket they click/lock into or screws... The screws usually go from outside the case to inside the case. (That way you have no body of the screw hanging out to snag on stuff.)

 
Between Prime Day and assorted things, I've upgraded my setup but I've got a problem I can't identify. Machine powers on, no video, no signs of actual life. No error beeps when starting with no ram or no video card. Had the same problem with an Asus 990 board that I exchanged for an MSI 970 Gaming. New AMD 6300 cpu going in, carrying forward R9 270 GPU, 12gb DDR3, OCZ 700 watt PSU. My old board works perfectly fine with those parts, so I know they work. Odds of 2 bad boards is rather low, so it's something I'm missing and general searching isn't turning up anything.
 
Did you check all the connections? That happened to me once and it turned out I had put the 4-pin CPU connector in upside down. I don't know how I managed to get it in since it's keyed, but I did.

Just make sure to unplug all auxiliary devices so you can narrow it down easier.
 
INMATEofARKHAM said:
Most fans either have some sort of bracket they click/lock into or screws... The screws usually go from outside the case to inside the case. (That way you have no body of the screw hanging out to snag on stuff.)
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http://imgur.com/hHPyF2L

http://imgur.com/mcj8EGv

Not the best quality pictures, but everything that came in the box was the fan, four screws (one held up to the side of the fan so you can see how small it is), and two silent mode adapters. The screws fit the holes via the width, but as you can clearly see the screws are too short to go through the fan and the case unless I'd screw them through the case first which just seems backwards to me.

 
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Jess Stryker said:
http://imgur.com/hHPyF2L

http://imgur.com/mcj8EGv

Not the best quality pictures, but everything that came in the box was the fan, four screws (one held up to the side of the fan so you can see how small it is), and two silent mode adapters. The screws fit the holes via the width, but as you can clearly see the screws are too short to go through the fan and the case unless I'd screw them through the case first which just seems backwards to me.
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That's what you have to do.

You hold the fan up to whatever holes you intend to screw them in and then you screw the screws from the outside of the case, through the pre-drilled holes, and into the fan. They don't go through all the way. They go through maybe half at most, but it works fine. That's how all of mine in my case are.

 
Jess Stryker said:
http://imgur.com/hHPyF2L

http://imgur.com/mcj8EGv

Not the best quality pictures, but everything that came in the box was the fan, four screws (one held up to the side of the fan so you can see how small it is), and two silent mode adapters. The screws fit the holes via the width, but as you can clearly see the screws are too short to go through the fan and the case unless I'd screw them through the case first which just seems backwards to me.
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What foxy said. He did a better job of explaining it than I did. Sorry about that. :)

Also you must be a professional photographer for UFOs and Bigfoot... ;)

 
New psu and ram come today, I'll have 2 computers now since I've bought enough parts to assemble a new machine completely. 8pin wasn't on backwards, I tried and won't do it. Still nothing, hopefully all new parts work. If this doesn't work I'm really going to be confused.
 
Are you sure the system is powering on?  CPU fan spins?  Lights on the MB?  Case fans spin up?  I'd first review the power and reset connectors to the MB from the case.  Easy to install, easier yet to have them cause this type of problem.  I've only had that twice and both times it was some connector installed incorrectly causing the problem.  Not saying that is your problem, just sounds like it could be to me after doing builds for 25+ years.

If that does not work or you want to try this first, remove the RAM and the graphics card, then power on - feel free to hookup the on board HDMI if you want to see any video output.  If the MB gets lights, and the CPU fan spins up, power off and insert a single stick of RAM, lather, rinse and repeat the test.  IF that works, lather, rinse and repeat with 2nd stick.    You get the idea from there.

That or start with the bare minimum to see video - CPU, CPU fan, case power + reset, and power cables connected.  Always break down back to the basics with this.  That's my OCD talking when I have issues like that. 

 
What do you guys think of this monitor?  

https://www.amazon.com/Acer-H276HL-bmid-27-Inch-Widescreen/dp/B00G5AH2YG/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1471380015&sr=1-3&keywords=acer+27%22

Acer has a "factory certified" version for around $130.  I'm mostly going to use it for general web browsing and playing some older games on it.  The reviews seem pretty good, but I'm just concerned about the DPI with it only being a 1080P monitor.  I use a 24" IPS at work and it looks great, so I figured a 27" IPS at home would be good too.

The Acer deal is 10% their entire certified components:

http://acerrecertified.com/index.php 

with coupon code: 10offacer

 
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encendido5 said:
What do you guys think of this monitor?

https://www.amazon.com/Acer-H276HL-bmid-27-Inch-Widescreen/dp/B00G5AH2YG/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1471380015&sr=1-3&keywords=acer+27%22

Acer has a "factory certified" version for around $130. I'm mostly going to use it for general web browsing and playing some older games on it. The reviews seem pretty good, but I'm just concerned about the DPI with it only being a 1080P monitor. I use a 24" IPS at work and it looks great, so I figured a 27" IPS at home would be good too.

The Acer deal is 10% their entire certified components:

http://acerrecertified.com/index.php

with coupon code: 10offacer
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I'll post this here too for anyone else interested:

1. I bought an open box Acer 23.8'' IPS Glossy from Best Buy last year. Was around $80 for me after Visa Checkout promo. It looks absolutely great so I wouldn't be worried about it meeting your needs for gaming and web browsing. Having issues with it now though (flickering on and off) but Acer honored the warranty so I am sending it out to get repaired.

2. But Acer Recertified is a different beast. I think their warranties are only 90 days and their customer service is absolute trash. That said, their prices are amazing. A few months ago I bought my wife a 27'' Touch Screen monitor for her crafting programs. It was $179.99 when those retail for $499.99 new so the savings are crazy. This was "Scratch and Dent." but the monitor has no noticeable blemishes. Packaging left much to be desired though. Came in a generic brown monitor box that was almost open since they put only one strip of tape on it. Was also missing a USB cable that is needed for the touch screen functionality but I had a spare. Opened a preemptive paypal claim because the monitor flickered the first two times it turned on and because of the missing cable. This was after I tried in vain to contact their CS over the phone and email. No response via email and their phone is never answered (at least not for me) no matter when I called. Via Paypal they never offered a replacement cable or to replace the monitor. The day the claim was about to be closed in my favor if they didn't respond they put a generic response that they would refund if I paid to return it to them.

Decided to keep it, but that's one big issue with their CS. That said, I ordered when they had this huge Scratch and Dent sale and a lot of their prices were way lower than they usually are. Slickdealers were buying tons of stuff so I'm pretty sure they might have been overwhelmed.

Would I do it again? Probably, as long as the savings are as crazy as they were. It can be hassle, but can be worth it with some of the stuff they sell.

 
I ended up buying the monitor and just finished setting it up.  Aside from some minor light bleeding problems on the top and sides, it is working great.  The light bleed only shows up during a completely black screen so it's not terrible.  I certainly can't complain for the price.  

 
I'm thinking about replacing my hard drives and I definitely plan on getting a 500GB SSD, that's a sunk cost. But will I see a performance boost if I get 5400 RPM hard drives to compliment it? Will I see a noticeable boost if I choose SATA III over SATA II? I do game on Steam, but my graphics card is still a 750 Ti. I don't plan on upgrading that for a little while longer.

I might want to upgrade the case while I'm at it, as it resembles: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147123 But with a fan in the front. I'd like something about the same size, a Micro ATX. A few inches bigger I wouldn't mind, but easy to clean and get in there and install about two hard drives. Height should be at most 16 inches. Width should be a 10 inches to a foot.

The Cooler Maser N200 looks nice, especially over the only Mini-Tower at Best Buy.

 
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I don't know what you mean by performance boost with a 5400 rpm hdd. Any spinning HDD is going to be slower than the SSD. Your SSD will easily saturate SATA II. But will you notice much of a difference over SATA III? Not really. But if you're getting an SSD, why would you bother going with SATA II?

Micro ATX cases may or may not fit larger graphics cards if that's an issue. And they usually have drive limitations (1x 5.25" HDD or no optical drive, etc). They're also usually horrible for airflow.

 
An SSD is the best preformance booster (minus video card for gaming) you can get for an older computer. Example my wife's laptop went from in dire need of replacing to good for a few more years with just a SSD replacing the old HD.

Note: You're going to want to have your OS on the SSD. You can still use HD for storage.
 
Can I run GTA V on medium with at least about 30+ FPS?

Processor: Potato with pickle taped onto it

Motherboard: A peice of leftover pizza

Monitor: DS screen glued onto a cardboard box

Peripherals: Rotting mouse corpse and box of raisins

Graphics card: Torn up basketball card with a picture of Lebron James on it

GB of ram: -2

OS: Windows 2000

 
Hey I'm getting together parts for a budget pc build and the last part that I need is a evga geforce gtx 1060 3gb gaming graphics card. The problem is it's out of stock everywhere and the only places that have it are pricing way aboce msrp. Anyone here have a website that might have it?
 
CBreeze5g said:
Hey I'm getting together parts for a budget pc build and the last part that I need is a evga geforce gtx 1060 3gb gaming graphics card. The problem is it's out of stock everywhere and the only places that have it are pricing way aboce msrp. Anyone here have a website that might have it?
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https://pcpartpicker.com

You have to search and stuff but all the parts are linked to a number of sites for pricing aND whatnot.
 
CBreeze5g said:
Hey I'm getting together parts for a budget pc build and the last part that I need is a evga geforce gtx 1060 3gb gaming graphics card. The problem is it's out of stock everywhere and the only places that have it are pricing way aboce msrp. Anyone here have a website that might have it?
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Wait a month...that and don't get the crippled version. 3gb sucks and is not future proof. Spend a bit more and get the 6gb version. Not sure why they screwed that up (again) but they did.

 
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