Walmart YMMV In Store Clearance Thread I (READ THE FAQs)

ThatOneGuyWho

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Changing this to a FAQs for those that need some help getting these deals.


When I order online it shows X price for in store, but changes to Y price at checkout, what gives?
You can only do in store pickup for the clearance price if the item is available for pick up that day. If it isn't the price will be the online price instead. Sometimes the item will be shipped to that store if it is no longer at that store. It may adjust to the clearance price at pickup but it could also charge you full price for it.

Can I buy the item at one store and return / rebuy at another?
Yes but it is up to the stores discretion to allow you to get it for that stores in store price. If it is an online order, they are supposed to return it to the warehouse it came from so you will not be able to buy it back. It's YMMV on employees following this rule though.

Can I price match a Walmart clearance item at X store?
No. No store, including Walmart, PMs clearance prices. YMMV on getting PMs for these items but it is against every stores policy to do so.

I want to price match this clearance item at another Walmart, will they allow me to?
No WM (or any retailer) PMs the prices of other local stores.

BS said X of an item is in stock, but the employee said it isn't at my store, why did they lie to me?
They didn't. Sometimes items are misplaced, stolen, or the count is off. Employees are not all over the massive stock room nor do they know where every item is. Don't harass an employee or come on here saying they are keeping it for themselves. Sometimes, an item truly isn't in the store.

Why is BS always wrong?
BS is not wrong. Their information is directly from WM systems. Just like all stores, inventory and prices may be wrong for a certain store. Do not rely only on BS.

How do I find clearance items?
Go to the store and scan items, check SD, check this thread. Actually look for something you want.

Where in the store are clearance games located?

Clearance items in general can be on shelves, in dedicated clearance sections or in the stock room. For games specifically, they will be in the videogame glass cases, videogame value game isle or dedicated clearance section. It's random and depends on that stores layout / management.

What is the SKU or item number of this item?
Look it up yourself. There is a search function on this site, on BS site and you can Google the item almost 100% of the time. No one needs to spoon feed you this information and we shouldn't have 20 people asking for the same information that was already posted.


Acronyms to know.
WM = Walmart
PM = Price Match
TRU = Toysrus
BS = Brickseek
SD = Slickdeals

 
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giphy.gif
I can't believe they never fixed her hair clipping through her arm.

 
Been mentioned three or four pages back, but picked up Life Is Strange 2 at my local store for $9.88. They had a slot for it a few weeks back and Brickseek had shown limited inventory, but no games when I first looked. Happened by electronics before grocery shopping today and was surprised to see two copies. Better late than never—figured it might be worth the $2 per episode.

Here’s the Brickseek link, for anyone interested: https://brickseek.com/walmart-inventory-checker/?sku=462543956

And thanks to the person who originally hyperlinked the Brickseek link!
 
Been mentioned three or four pages back, but picked up Life Is Strange 2 at my local store for $9.88. They had a slot for it a few weeks back and Brickseek had shown limited inventory, but no games when I first looked. Happened by electronics before grocery shopping today and was surprised to see two copies. Better late than never—figured it might be worth the $2 per episode.

Here’s the Brickseek link, for anyone interested: https://brickseek.com/walmart-inventory-checker/?sku=462543956

And thanks to the person who originally hyperlinked the Brickseek link!
thanks for this, so worth the $10?

ALSO, if somebody could provide the same for Little NIghtamares 2

heck we dont' even know for what game system it is for....

 
Went thru last few  pages of this thread thru May 1st, 2021 and this was the list I put together, but by the time I got to the 2nd Wal-Mart, i was so defeated I didn't even bother going to the final 2..  Both Wal-Marts I found semi-wiling to help employee's (more cuz of my witty charm than anything tho) and had them pull up the UPC's in their fancy scanner, "oh yeah, it says we have these in stock, let me go to the back and check... OH WAIT, these are marked as clearance, yeah, they're gone, SORRY" and that was that. 


Below attached pic is the ONLY single CLEARANCE item I found.. does it help that TRULY, the wireless $99 mouse for $20 was the one item I wanted the most? Yes, yes it did!!!  This $20 clearance mouse is the SOLE reason for putting together this whole trip, everything else would have jus been a bonus. 
 
p.s. I HATE Wal-Mart

 
 
Waukesha
 
Razer Mamba Wireless Gaming Mouse: Chroma RGB Lighting. $20, Qty: 2-3 (Silver Spring 3-4) - https://brickseek.com/walmart-inventory-checker/?sku=646006609
 
LEGO City Roadwork Truck 60284 Building Toy; Cool Roadworks Construction Set for Kids (58 Pieces), Qty: 6+ (Dela:6+) $5 - https://brickseek.com/walmart-inventory-checker/?sku=107943480
 
NETGEAR - CM500 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem| Certified for XFINITY by Comcast, Spectrum, Cox, $13, Qty: 3-4 - https://brickseek.com/walmart-inventory-checker/?sku=45431164
 
NETGEAR AX1800 4-Stream WiFi 6 Router (RAX20-100NAS), Qty: 1 (Silverspring 2-3) $35 - https://brickseek.com/walmart-inventory-checker/?sku=176537239
 
MyQ Smart Garage Door Opener Wireless & Wi-Fi Garage Hub with Smartphone Control, Qty: 6+ (Greenfield 6+) $9 - https://brickseek.com/walmart-inventory-checker/?sku=471084856
 
 
 
Muskego 
 
 - SanDisk 1TB Extreme Portable External SSD - USB-C, USB 3.1 - SDSSDE60-1T00-G25, Musk $44.25, Qty: 2-3 - https://brickseek.com/walmart-inventory-checker/?sku=904399577
 
Mukwonago
 
SAMSUNG 55" Class 4K Crystal UHD (2160P) LED Smart TV with HDR UN55TU8200 2020, $139, Qty: 2-3 - https://brickseek.com/walmart-inventory-checker/?sku=535132559
 
 
 - Lasko 1500W Cyclonic Ceramic Room Space Heater, CC24920, Black, $19, Qty: 1 - https://brickseek.com/walmart-inventory-checker/?sku=376954169
 
New Berlin
 
 - Seagate Expansion 4TB USB 3.0 Desktop External Hard Drive - STEB4000100, $21, Qty: 1 - https://brickseek.com/walmart-inventory-checker/?sku=544329406
 
[attachment=35787:Mamba Wireless.jpg]
 
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Car battery died on my 02' IS300, 3'rd battery in 4 years, something else must be going on right?  Anyways ran into a different Wal-Mart right quick on the SPEED is a MUST TIP, no dedicated electronics clearance section but did find these on the shelf marked as CLEARANCE..

Never seen it done this CLEANLY, usually its jus a pile on a bottom shelf..

Thoughts on LIfe is Strange: Before The Storm?   Or that other LIfe Is Strange 2, both $10? 

[attachment=35788:pic 1.jpg]

[attachment=35789:pic 2.jpg]

[attachment=35790:pic 3.jpg]

[attachment=35791:pic 4.jpg]

 
Been mentioned three or four pages back, but picked up Life Is Strange 2 at my local store for $9.88. They had a slot for it a few weeks back and Brickseek had shown limited inventory, but no games when I first looked. Happened by electronics before grocery shopping today and was surprised to see two copies. Better late than never—figured it might be worth the $2 per episode.

Here’s the Brickseek link, for anyone interested: https://brickseek.com/walmart-inventory-checker/?sku=462543956

And thanks to the person who originally hyperlinked the Brickseek link!
I picked this up a few days ago from a WM near work.

Also found Dissidia Final Fantasy NT at $9.88. Looks like a few stores have them at $0.03.

https://brickseek.com/walmart-inventory-checker?sku=55918976

 
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thanks for this, so worth the $10?
ALSO, if somebody could provide the same for Little NIghtamares 2
heck we dont' even know for what game system it is for....
According to PSPrices, the cheapest Life Is Strange 2 has been digitally so far is $12.77. If interested, you can peep its pricing history here: https://psprices.com/region-us/game/2376112/life-is-strange-2-complete-season. Obviously there are different camps too when it comes to people preferring physical versus digital. I tend to lean towards physical when/where possible, which makes the deal even more appealing. As for whether it’s worth the $10, it probably depends on your gaming preferences. I’m not sure if you played the original game or its prequel (Before the Storm), but they play a little more like a TellTale game. Sometimes it’s nice to play a game or two like that between the big tentpole exclusives to cleanse the palate. More low key, story focused. Probably worth checking out a trailer and/or a few reviews if you’re on the fence.

If you go searching for it, good luck!
 
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Car battery died on my 02' IS300, 3'rd battery in 4 years, something else must be going on right?
I buy all my car batteries at walmart. I also buy the next size up (same form factor size) battery as far as Cold Craning Amps are concerned. Hard to beat their deal on replacing them for free when they die early. Mine usually last around 5 years minimum but I have had issues where I had to replace them sooner and took advantage of that return/exchange policy.

My guess is three things...

1. Alternator isn't providing it's full voltage and the battery isn't getting fully charged on medium to short trips
2. Corrosion on one of the terminals or a bad cable connection is limiting the charge the battery gets

3. Something is draining a little of the battery when the car is off. Maybe it's an aftermarket stereo or an amp or something... but it's not enough of a draw to kill the battery if you don't drive for a few days.
4. Excess heat from where you live, bad ventilation under the hood, as well as cold can shorten the life of the battery

Your alternator can be tested for free at many of the autoparts stores. They should also notice if there's any white corrosion/buildup or a cable not doing it's job (a wire brush will clean up any corrosion). Some time and a volt meter at your fuse box should help determine what is pulling voltage from the battery. You'll have to google for that.

OR....

Just keep on keeping on with the deal at Walmart and know you need to replace it every couple years. Maybe invest in one of those jump start battery packs that you can keep in your glove compartment.

EDIT: Also you can do a basic alternator test by starting your car and then disconnecting the battery. Then go rev the engine and put more demand on the alternator. If it doesn't die... then it might be fine... though you'd still be best off getting it tested to make sure it's putting out the full voltage it's spec'd for.

 
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I buy all my car batteries at walmart. I also buy the next size up (same form factor size) battery as far as Cold Craning Amps are concerned. Hard to beat their deal on replacing them for free when they die early. Mine usually last around 5 years minimum but I have had issues where I had to replace them sooner and took advantage of that return/exchange policy.

My guess is three things...

1. Alternator isn't providing it's full voltage and the battery isn't getting fully charged on medium to short trips
2. Corrosion on one of the terminals or a bad cable connection is limiting the charge the battery gets

3. Something is draining a little of the battery when the car is off. Maybe it's an aftermarket stereo or an amp or something... but it's not enough of a draw to kill the battery if you don't drive for a few days.
4. Excess heat from where you live, bad ventilation under the hood, as well as cold can shorten the life of the battery

Your alternator can be tested for free at many of the autoparts stores. They should also notice if there's any white corrosion/buildup or a cable not doing it's job (a wire brush will clean up any corrosion). Some time and a volt meter at your fuse box should help determine what is pulling voltage from the battery. You'll have to google for that.

OR....

Just keep on keeping on with the deal at Walmart and know you need to replace it every couple years. Maybe invest in one of those jump start battery packs that you can keep in your glove compartment.

EDIT: Also you can do a basic alternator test by starting your car and then disconnecting the battery. Then go rev the engine and put more demand on the alternator. If it doesn't die... then it might be fine... though you'd still be best off getting it tested to make sure it's putting out the full voltage it's spec'd for.
Pep Boy literally just sent me an email and text about free battery check. Try that too. Depending on how old your car is, keep that jumper battery packs in the car.

 
Pep Boy literally just sent me an email and text about free battery check. Try that too. Depending on how old your car is, keep that jumper battery packs in the car.
Yeah, pep boys, autozone, advance autoparts, o'reiley's auto parts.... pretty sure they all offer this. Jumper battery pack and a set of jumper cables as a backup.

 
Yeah, pep boys, autozone, advance autoparts, o'reiley's auto parts.... pretty sure they all offer this. Jumper battery pack and a set of jumper cables as a backup.
Yeah, but sometimes their ‘test’ will tell you your battery is fine when it is not. Last time a battery went bad, one of the cells died. We could not jump the car with one of those jumper packs. We actually had to link 2 together to jump the car.

Took that battery out and down to Napa. Their ‘test’ said that battery was fine.

 
Yup, their battery tests typically only read how much voltage is coming out of the battery.  If you just happened to have it charged up when you arrive at the store (say you hooked it up to an external charger or drove around for a while), they'll read it, say it's fine, then deny your warranty.  Their meter won't be able to tell that it actually doesn't hold a charge.  If you're trying to get it replaced under warranty, your best bet is to let it run down again and bring it back.  That obviously means you'll need to bring it there with another car, unfortunately.

 
Yeah, but sometimes their ‘test’ will tell you your battery is fine when it is not. Last time a battery went bad, one of the cells died. We could not jump the car with one of those jumper packs. We actually had to link 2 together to jump the car.

Took that battery out and down to Napa. Their ‘test’ said that battery was fine.
Yeah, not the battery test... the Alternator test. But even then they can fail to find a problem... but for free.. it's worth a look.

If you have a odb2 reader that does more than the basics you should be able to do a live reading of the voltage off of the alternator when the car is running without needing a volt meter (though it's good to have both). Though that is just what the computer "sees" as the voltage and it may also be off.

Still, when chasing issues with power there are a few key things to look for. A battery that wont take a charge enough to start a car is just a replacement job. For a battery that lasts a year or two and dies the issues could be a myriad of things. Even using more power demanding spark plugs could produce enough of an imballance in the system or always charging another device.

The portable jump start batteries have to be drained and recharged every six months to a year. And it's worth disconnecting the car battery and testing it. For a car that kills batteries... it could be a time saver if you can't find anyone to give you a jump.

EDIT: Also wanted to say that most modern cars kill the cig lighter power ports when the car is off... if your car still supplies power and you leave a usb converter plugged in 24/7... and it's not very efficient at it's job ... it could cause enough drain to help prematurely kill a battery. Maybe over the course of a couple years.

 
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I buy all my car batteries at walmart. I also buy the next size up (same form factor size) battery as far as Cold Craning Amps are concerned. Hard to beat their deal on replacing them for free when they die early. Mine usually last around 5 years minimum but I have had issues where I had to replace them sooner and took advantage of that return/exchange policy.

My guess is three things...

1. Alternator isn't providing it's full voltage and the battery isn't getting fully charged on medium to short trips
2. Corrosion on one of the terminals or a bad cable connection is limiting the charge the battery gets

3. Something is draining a little of the battery when the car is off. Maybe it's an aftermarket stereo or an amp or something... but it's not enough of a draw to kill the battery if you don't drive for a few days.
4. Excess heat from where you live, bad ventilation under the hood, as well as cold can shorten the life of the battery

Your alternator can be tested for free at many of the autoparts stores. They should also notice if there's any white corrosion/buildup or a cable not doing it's job (a wire brush will clean up any corrosion). Some time and a volt meter at your fuse box should help determine what is pulling voltage from the battery. You'll have to google for that.

OR....

Just keep on keeping on with the deal at Walmart and know you need to replace it every couple years. Maybe invest in one of those jump start battery packs that you can keep in your glove compartment.

EDIT: Also you can do a basic alternator test by starting your car and then disconnecting the battery. Then go rev the engine and put more demand on the alternator. If it doesn't die... then it might be fine... though you'd still be best off getting it tested to make sure it's putting out the full voltage it's spec'd for.
thanks ALL for the input and advise regarding the dead car battery.. However I'm pretty sure, its a Parastic DRAW thats my issue.

I mistyped it earlier, this is my 3 battery in 2 years from Batteries Plus, but overall this is like my 8'th battery in 5/6 years, 3 from Autozone, 2 from Walmart, and 3 from Batteries Plus...

If I drive the car at least once a week no issues, but if left undriven for anything past 7 days is when battery dies. Furthermore I have been told by the Autzone and now Batteries Plus guy, that battery is so dead/TOAST that they can't even "deep cycle" charge it. Whatever that means right?

Anyways, yeah so the last few times I've taken a voltmeter and battery is completely dead.

I have a cheapy battery charger that doubles as an "alternator testor".

When the battery is toast, the chargers say its unchargeable, and of course my alternator tests fine..

Not a car guy per say, but I do do my own oil changes, brakes including rotors, so I know a bit..

HOWEVER from my Google searches, this Parastic DRAW is no joke to diagnose...

not looking forward to that at all..

For refernce, car is an 2002 IS300, and its BONE STOCK, still rocking the OEM radio and everything else is stock...

 
For refernce, car is an 2002 IS300, and its BONE STOCK, still rocking the OEM radio and everything else is stock...
I'm surprised it's not modded. Two of my youngest son's friends drive the same car because it's a 2JZ engine which has a lot of options for mods.

I'm not a super car guy... but I know enough to do a lot and I'm not afraid to learn as long as I'm not actually dropping an engine or trans... that I'll let the pros handle it. Same for tire installation... though I will rotate my own.

Given the new detail....

I once had a similar issue due to my glove box light staying on when the door was shut. It took me pressing the button (that triggers it to off) to determine that the light wasn't going off. I think I ended up just removing the bulb. That's a good place to check. Same for any other accessory lights (trunk, hood, mirror lights in the visors)... and anything plugged into the cig lighter. The draw is big enough to kill in a week but not enough to kill in a few days. That narrows the scope greatly. If it were something more serious, like the fuel pump never shutting off, then the battery would die much quicker.

It's possible too that the stock radio (or amp if it has one) is not completely shutting off. These type of problems are hard to track but given it's dying when not being driven... 100% it's a component that is on when it shouldn't be.

 
I'm surprised it's not modded. Two of my youngest son's friends drive the same car because it's a 2JZ engine which has a lot of options for mods.

I'm not a super car guy... but I know enough to do a lot and I'm not afraid to learn as long as I'm not actually dropping an engine or trans... that I'll let the pros handle it. Same for tire installation... though I will rotate my own.

Given the new detail....

I once had a similar issue due to my glove box light staying on when the door was shut. It took me pressing the button (that triggers it to off) to determine that the light wasn't going off. I think I ended up just removing the bulb. That's a good place to check. Same for any other accessory lights (trunk, hood, mirror lights in the visors)... and anything plugged into the cig lighter. The draw is big enough to kill in a week but not enough to kill in a few days. That narrows the scope greatly. If it were something more serious, like the fuel pump never shutting off, then the battery would die much quicker.

It's possible too that the stock radio (or amp if it has one) is not completely shutting off. These type of problems are hard to track but given it's dying when not being driven... 100% it's a component that is on when it shouldn't be.
2JZ but without that turbo its not the legendary engine people are after.. But if you have the cash you can turn it into a beast

 
I'm surprised it's not modded. Two of my youngest son's friends drive the same car because it's a 2JZ engine which has a lot of options for mods.
^^ thats why it took me 3yrs of hunting to find this exact car!! The gen1 IS300 was my "dream car' but I could not afford it, so settled for a brand new 2000 Honda Civic which I looked at as the poor mans IS300.. Fast fwd to 2015 and i'm now in a much better position financially to get this car, and being a decade past release, they should be way cheaper now right? WRONG, little did I know that by now, the IS300 had become the "fast and Furious" car amongst the younger crowd... So good luck finding one that was a manual, that had the LSD option, and small chance in h311 that you would find one that was still bone stock, untouched OEM level status.. Hence my 3yr search, and by search I mean I was searching across the nation, not jus locally..

Finally on page 5 of Autotraders listings I found one, could not believe it, cuz if its too good to be true.. Anyways listing looked SKETCH, only had 2 very unflattering pictures of it and the listing itself had bare bone details. So it seemed like a bait and trap, but I had a feeling.. Reached out and the rest was history. Turns out it was a "retired" doctor who purchased it for his son, when he went away to college but his college being in Chicago, w/mass transit he bare used it those 4yrs, and then gave it back to dad since parking in chicago was a nightmare and or expensive. So thats how in 2015 or so, I got my 2002 IS300 5MT w/LSD, GGP, 67,000 miles for $8400. What a find!! Only real catch was that it was about 6hrs away, in post-apocalyptic which at that time, was a very very bad city to be in.. Can't lie I grew up rougher than most, and yeah Detroit had me.. Anyways as luck would have it, a bllizzard hit the midwest that year, so had greyhound it down there, and test drive it in the 12' of snow, but I knew I had to have it. Doc even had taken it to Lexus dealership and paid $300 for an inspection and maintenace before I got it. He even knocked off $100, said, "don't drive back in this weather, here is $100, stay in a hotel and go home in the morning". I WILL NEVER FORGE THAT GESTURE.. It really spoke to me. Unfortunately I had my lil seeds at my parents house and didn't feel comfortable leaving them overnight so on and on I drove.. The 6hr trip took 10hrs..

BUT I GOT MY IS300!!!

 
Nice story, man.  I don't envy you needing to chase electrical gremlins, though.

A few "easy" things worth checking out to at least rule out some causes of your battery draw issue:

  • Check your battery terminals for corrosion and also check that the cables at that end aren't fraying or corroding as well.
  • Also worth checking that the terminals are able to screw down tightly onto your battery's posts.  I've found that post thickness varies slightly across brands and sometimes you just can't crank it down enough so that the terminal doesn't wriggle.  You also don't want to crank it down so hard that you bust the terminal...
  • See if you can locate some of the ground points in the engine bay or elsewhere on the body.  Make sure all the wires connected to it aren't loose and there's no corrosion there either.
Fixing some of those problems might be harder than finding them, but at least it might give you a head start in resolving your issue.  If you already know and/or did these things, then don't mind me.  G/L!

 
^^ thats why it took me 3yrs of hunting to find this exact car!! The gen1 IS300 was my "dream car' but I could not afford it, so settled for a brand new 2000 Honda Civic which I looked at as the poor mans IS300.. Fast fwd to 2015 and i'm now in a much better position financially to get this car, and being a decade past release, they should be way cheaper now right? WRONG, little did I know that by now, the IS300 had become the "fast and Furious" car amongst the younger crowd... So good luck finding one that was a manual, that had the LSD option, and small chance in h311 that you would find one that was still bone stock, untouched OEM level status.. Hence my 3yr search, and by search I mean I was searching across the nation, not jus locally..

Finally on page 5 of Autotraders listings I found one, could not believe it, cuz if its too good to be true.. Anyways listing looked SKETCH, only had 2 very unflattering pictures of it and the listing itself had bare bone details. So it seemed like a bait and trap, but I had a feeling.. Reached out and the rest was history. Turns out it was a "retired" doctor who purchased it for his son, when he went away to college but his college being in Chicago, w/mass transit he bare used it those 4yrs, and then gave it back to dad since parking in chicago was a nightmare and or expensive. So thats how in 2015 or so, I got my 2002 IS300 5MT w/LSD, GGP, 67,000 miles for $8400. What a find!! Only real catch was that it was about 6hrs away, in post-apocalyptic which at that time, was a very very bad city to be in.. Can't lie I grew up rougher than most, and yeah Detroit had me.. Anyways as luck would have it, a bllizzard hit the midwest that year, so had greyhound it down there, and test drive it in the 12' of snow, but I knew I had to have it. Doc even had taken it to Lexus dealership and paid $300 for an inspection and maintenace before I got it. He even knocked off $100, said, "don't drive back in this weather, here is $100, stay in a hotel and go home in the morning". I WILL NEVER FORGE THAT GESTURE.. It really spoke to me. Unfortunately I had my lil seeds at my parents house and didn't feel comfortable leaving them overnight so on and on I drove.. The 6hr trip took 10hrs..

BUT I GOT MY IS300!!!
This guy wants to talk to you. He's lonely.

Are you into cars? - Lifestyle & Off Topic - Cheap Ass Gamer

 
BUT I GOT MY IS300!!!
My son was doing something similar for several months. I had a budget of around 12K (same for each of my kids) ... but I wanted something super reliable that would last him well through college. All the IS300's he found me were super high mileage with aftermarket parts on them (so VERY used up). Ended up buying him an 08' MX5 Grand Touring (the version with the integrated hard top convertible) with just over 70k miles on it. It let me get out of my system the desire to own such a small car. Since he lowered it a couple inches... changing the oil on that thing is a trick... had to build some custom ramps from 1x6 just to get a jack under it.

Ok... so that's enough car talk. Just saw your problem and have chased so many problems with cars that I've learned a lot over the past decades. I gave all that up though and just bought a camry new back in 2016. Only problem I've had was a battery at around 50K... and I just went to walmart and upsized the cca because it didn't really cost enough difference to have that extra peace of mind.

If I had your car, and I wasn't driving it at least every other day I'd wire either wire a kill switch under the hood (due to thickness of wire needed) or I'd just take the time to disconnect the battery. To help trace the problem you could measure the battery voltage then pull about 10 fuses from the fuse box (take a picture or two)... check it after a couple days and if the battery has lost power then you know it wasn't one of those ten systems. Connect them back up, and pull more fuses after charging the battery back up to full and taking a new measurement. Wash and repeat until you narrow down where it is. If fuse pulls make no difference, pull relays. It might take a couple weeks ... but process of elimination should reveal where the draw is coming from.

 
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Anyone know what time wm puts out new inventory? I'm planning on checking my local wm for the skyward sword joycons but not sure if I should get there as soon as they open or later.

 
Anyone know what time wm puts out new inventory? I'm planning on checking my local wm for the skyward sword joycons but not sure if I should get there as soon as they open or later.
It's a YMMV thing on when each store stocks things. Even my own main store can stock some items one day and others the next and may even not finish and will put things off to the next day. So it might take a few days from launch for something to be on the shelf... or it might be around lunch time on launch day.

You can always just ask in electronics if they can check if the controllers came in... and they might just pull you a set. But I wouldn't go early in the morning as I did that before only to find no one really working in Electronics. But that's my store.

 
anything is possible. you have to go to the store and hope you get a helpful employee.

What does it mean when an item on Brickseek goes from In Stock in one location and Out of Stock at ~12 more to 'No results found' in a matter of hours? Is it discontinued? Could it still be at the one location?

For reference: VIZIO 55" Class 4K UHD Quantum SmartCast Smart TV HDR M-Series M556-H showed $45 locally this morning.
73121206.jpg


It's probably a display model, go in person and look for the tv, hopefully they'll also be a shelf tag scanning for that price but it isn't completely necessary. Bought 4 display model 4Ks just after the 4th, you'll need a department manager's approval though, best time to go is between 11a-12

 
New clearance for the week. Sorry I didn't post the exact stores, used unreliable brickseek or state how many copies each store in the country has but I figure you guys can figure that out yourself :rofl:



$13.00 Microsoft Windows 10, Key card
$19.00 Razer Mamba Wireless Gaming Mouse: Chroma RGB Lighting.
$69.00 VIZIO 55" Class 4K UHD Quantum SmartCast Smart TV HDR M-Series M556-H
$99.00 VIZIO 55" Class 4K UHD LED SmartCast Smart TV HDR V-Series V555-H
$74.00 VIZIO 43" Class 4k UHD LED SmartCast Smart TV HDR V-Series V436-G1
$109.00 Acer Chromebook Spin 311 CP311-3H-K3WL Convertible Laptop, MediaTek MT8183C Octa-Core Processor, 11.6" HD Touchscreen, 4GB LPDDR4X, 32GB eMMC
$124.00 VIZIO 65" Class 4k UHD LED SmartCast Smart TV HDR V-Series V655-H
$139.00 SAMSUNG 65" Class 4K Crystal UHD (2160P) LED Smart TV with HDR UN65TU8200 2020
$169.00 VIZIO 70" Class 4K UHD LED SmartCast Smart TV HDR V-Series V705-H
$184.00 SAMSUNG 65” TU8300 Crystal UHD 4K Smart TV with HDR UN65TU8300FXZA 2020
$184.00 75" VIZIO V755 4K HDR SmartCast TV
$349.00 SAMSUNG 75" Class 4K Ultra HD (2160P) HDR Smart QLED TV QN75Q60TB


$29.88 Simple Mobile LG Journey Smartphone
$30.00 AT&T Radiant Max 32GB, Cobalt Blue - Prepaid Smartphone


$75.00 Ionvac Smartclean 2000 Robovac - Hardwood & Carpet Smart Robotic Vacuum, Controlled via Mobile App or Voice Activated Commands


$11.10 Monopoly Super Electronic Banking Board Game For Kids Ages 8+, 2-4 Players
$16.66 Tobi Robot Smartwatch for Kids with Cameras, Video, Games, and Activities - Pink
$16.90 Little Tikes Tobi Robot Smartwatch
$25.00 LEGO Masters Co-pack 66666 Creative Building Toy Value Set (613 Pieces)


$2.00 Hanes Men's White V-Neck Undershirts, 3 Pack
$3.00 Athletic Works Men's Sustainable Mesh Boxer Brief, 3 Pack


$25.00 Toddleroo by North States 6 Panel Superyard Portable Indoor Outdoor Playard
Some of those TVs show in stock at my local Walmart. One even shows 2 Wal-Mart's with stock. They are the 65 inch and 70 inch models though which means if the store did have them, I would not be able to fit them in my car.
 
Saw game and watch down to $37.95 today. Almost pulled the trigger but I’m saving for the zelda one. They had probably 10.
I'm surprised clearance deals on the Super Mario Bros. Game & Watch are still so rare. I can't speak for every city, but in my neck of the woods, they're clinging on to shelves even harder than Codename STEAM did. They just... don't move, at all.

I'd like to own one but there's no way I'm paying more than $20.
 
Those things should've been $14.99 on release, same with those stupid Mini Game Gears (actually those should've been $9.99). Had they included all of the NES/SNES Mario games, then maybe it'd be worth it...but even then NES Classic was only like $60 and had a bunch of games. Let them collect dust, I say!
 
Nice story, man. I don't envy you needing to chase electrical gremlins, though.

A few "easy" things worth checking out to at least rule out some causes of your battery draw issue:

  • Check your battery terminals for corrosion and also check that the cables at that end aren't fraying or corroding as well.
  • Also worth checking that the terminals are able to screw down tightly onto your battery's posts. I've found that post thickness varies slightly across brands and sometimes you just can't crank it down enough so that the terminal doesn't wriggle. You also don't want to crank it down so hard that you bust the terminal...
  • See if you can locate some of the ground points in the engine bay or elsewhere on the body. Make sure all the wires connected to it aren't loose and there's no corrosion there either.
Fixing some of those problems might be harder than finding them, but at least it might give you a head start in resolving your issue. If you already know and/or did these things, then don't mind me. G/L!


My son was doing something similar for several months. I had a budget of around 12K (same for each of my kids) ... but I wanted something super reliable that would last him well through college. All the IS300's he found me were super high mileage with aftermarket parts on them (so VERY used up). Ended up buying him an 08' MX5 Grand Touring (the version with the integrated hard top convertible) with just over 70k miles on it. It let me get out of my system the desire to own such a small car. Since he lowered it a couple inches... changing the oil on that thing is a trick... had to build some custom ramps from 1x6 just to get a jack under it.

Ok... so that's enough car talk. Just saw your problem and have chased so many problems with cars that I've learned a lot over the past decades. I gave all that up though and just bought a camry new back in 2016. Only problem I've had was a battery at around 50K... and I just went to walmart and upsized the cca because it didn't really cost enough difference to have that extra peace of mind.

If I had your car, and I wasn't driving it at least every other day I'd wire either wire a kill switch under the hood (due to thickness of wire needed) or I'd just take the time to disconnect the battery. To help trace the problem you could measure the battery voltage then pull about 10 fuses from the fuse box (take a picture or two)... check it after a couple days and if the battery has lost power then you know it wasn't one of those ten systems. Connect them back up, and pull more fuses after charging the battery back up to full and taking a new measurement. Wash and repeat until you narrow down where it is. If fuse pulls make no difference, pull relays. It might take a couple weeks ... but process of elimination should reveal where the draw is coming from.
Fellers I don't want to keep crowding this thread with the car stuff, but I just wanted to say thanks for the input and direction.

Quick update: according to my notes, "bad" battery was from 5/19, so went back to Batteries Plus and dude ran his test, said battery was COMPLETELY TOAST, so he just gave me another new one, though he did say, "man this is your 3'rd battery in 2 years, so I'm gonna say its probably not the batteries"

haha, so the saga continues.. but I will hopefully address this parasitic drain before labor day, thats just my personal goal!

again, thanks all!

oNe

 
Our nearest Wal-Mart sucks. I mean, it sucked before, but it recently closed down its McDonalds and turned its entire checkout line into self-service. There are four traditional checkout areas, but they're left unmanned and probably only used in special circumstances.

You'd think self-service might make checking out a lot faster. Nope! The lines just to get into the self-service areas were massive, to the point where I just gave up on the sandwich wrap and mini pie I was going to purchase. It's more like a Starve-Mart at this point.

 
Does Walmart still do $10 discounts on Switch games? The new WarioWare is gonna retail for $50, but I'd love to head to Walmart and get it for $40.

 
bread's done
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