Building my first PC

SynGamer

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So i'm finally building my first PC and I have everything ordered, but i would like some advice/comments on what i have, please. Oh, and i've linked the components to Newegg just for specifications/pictures if anyone wanted to check them out. I'm going to be gaming on a 15" 1024x768 monitor until i can save up for a descent 19-20" widescreen. I'll have this hooked up to my 32" HDTV so i might just use my 360 controller and play some games on that ;) I posted prices for each component to perhaps justify why i bought what i did, all prices are after rebates.

My First Custom PC



Total: $627.57, after rebates: 438.82 :D

So how is it? I *might* overclock later on (a month or so after i have this all put together) but this will be for casual-medium gaming. And tips on how to assemble all of this? I plan on mounting my HSF front to back and i'm debating a 90mm side fan. There will be a 120mm fan in the from and in the back as well.
 
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Wow, that after rebate price is phenomenal. I congratulate you sir.
My two bits:
good processor
ugly case (not that it matters)
i'd recommend another brand for cooling, like Zalman
you're probably going to want a faster HDD, at least a 7,200 rpm, but if you can find a deal get a WD Raptor like this

Now while the Raptor is not really in your budget, you'll notice the optimized performance in D3 and MMOs.
 
just get a dual platter WD hdd, don't need a raptor, the dual plats run just as fast at a fraction of the cost.

also - you probably won't even need to OC - but if you want to save money, just go lower on the totem pole to a e2160 or e2180 and OC up to 3.0.

that's a great mobo though.
 
Do it right the first time, or you will regret it. That being said...

I agree with the previous Zalman recommendation. The ZALMAN 9500A or even better, the ZALMAN CNPS9700 are your best choice for cooling AND will aid you in your overclocking endeavors. The CNPS9700 is actually on sale right now for $59.99 which is a smoking deal. Twice the cost of your current cooler but I guarantee that you will reuse this cooler should you decide to upgrade.

And yea, you need a video card too. :)
 
Whoa, replies. Well, first off, everything listed i have aleady bought and is being shipped out to me as we speak. The Vanquisher reviews are good (i've read through 3 different ones) and will do what i need it to. As for the CPU, i've heard very good things about the E7200 and the E2160 and E2180 only have 1MB L2 cache, plus they are about 500MHz slower. Since i paid $106.48 shipped for the E7200, i got agreat deal.
 
[quote name='Hybrid5006']You forgot a graphics card dude. The mobo doesn't have any video onboard (that's why it's so cheap)

I recommend this beast only $140 after rebate.[/quote]
I clearly stated in my post that all i have left to buy is a graphics card :D Budget is $100 for that and i'm eying a 8800GT 512MB once a deal comes along. I could get a 256MB version right now but i would much rather get 512MB for future sake.
 
Don't forget to pick up the little things. Dunno how much of what you're getting is OEM (if any at all), but remember cables, Thermal Paste (comes in handy if you screw up the heatsink/fan installation), or Cable Ties (just makes it easier to work with).
 
Well right now i'm looking for rubber washers for the motherboard, and i have a local (though overpriced) computer store around the corner from where i live. I still need 1 120mm fan which will run me $10 locally, or like $15 on newegg with shipping. Not sure where i could find cable ties, and if the thermal paste that comes on the heatsink gets messed up, i can run to the computer store, hopefully that doesn't happen though.

*EDIT: i just updated the first post to reflect the prices i paid for each component after rebates...perhaps that will help explain why i bought what i did?
 
[quote name='sandrokstar']Wow, that after rebate price is phenomenal. I congratulate you sir.
My two bits:
good processor
ugly case (not that it matters)
i'd recommend another brand for cooling, like Zalman
you're probably going to want a faster HDD, at least a 7,200 rpm, but if you can find a deal get a WD Raptor like this

Now while the Raptor is not really in your budget, you'll notice the optimized performance in D3 and MMOs.[/quote]
I lik the case :( :p and the HDD is a 160GB 7200rpm ATA Hard Drive that came with my girlfriends Dell B110. It's not a top performer but it is at least 7200rpm.
 
I don't think there's anything you could've change on your build for around the same price you paid for. You've picked all the exceptional parts for the price. Those 8800GT 512 deals are coming, I've seen them for as low as $120 couple weeks ago.
 
[quote name='CaseyRyback']I would look to get a better power supply. Especially if you are going to stick a decent graphics card in it.[/quote]
Power supply is fine, i've checked the requirements and i don't plan to overclock much. If 430W isn't enough, then these manufacturers need to improve their efficiency.

*EDIT: the graphics card i'm looking at (8800 GT 512 MB, overclocked) require 400W and i would assume the test bed has a better processor than mine and likely 2 HDDs. I should be fine by about 50W at least.
 
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[quote name='SOSTrooper']I don't think there's anything you could've change on your build for around the same price you paid for. You've picked all the exceptional parts for the price. Those 8800GT 512 deals are coming, I've seen them for as low as $120 couple weeks ago.[/quote]
Well, it's July 4th weekend...fingers crossed something pops up :D
 
[quote name='SynGamer']Well, it's July 4th weekend...fingers crossed something pops up :D[/quote]

If you want a heatsink that's quiet and just as effective as the Zalman 9700 try this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185027

If you want a heatsink that can be dead silent and is far more effective, get this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835109125

Pair with a couple of these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185006

I have the Zalman 9700 and it's loud even when it's turned down. It's effective when turned up, but louder than 4 Xbox 360's in the desert.

I'm dumping my Zalman for the Thermalright and pairing with two Scythe fans.
 
Everything looks good, damn good considering the price. The PSU will handle everything you got now but might need to be upgraded if/when you go for a new graphics Card. 7200 RPM Hard drives are fine.

About raptors though, those things are extremely pointless and pricey when one knows that you could get 2 7200 RPM hard drives Raid O them(google if you like) and they would be faster, more cost efficient($ per GB), and save you a pretty good amount of cash. Plan on pickin up 2 300GB's pretty soon :).
 
[quote name='SmokyPreacher']Everything looks good, damn good considering the price. The PSU will handle everything you got now but might need to be upgraded if/when you go for a new graphics Card. 7200 RPM Hard drives are fine.

About raptors though, those things are extremely pointless and pricey when one knows that you could get 2 7200 RPM hard drives Raid O them(google if you like) and they would be faster, more cost efficient($ per GB), and save you a pretty good amount of cash. Plan on pickin up 2 300GB's pretty soon :).[/quote]
Would my current power supply be able to power the system fully with 2 300GB HDDs? I really only need like 300 GB total...Was actually thinking of putting Vista on the 160 and then OSX on an 80 GB or something.
 
No, most people don't need anywhere near that much but I am a digital packrat and have a lot of backed up media. I'd say look at how much you use now add how many games you plan on putting on it times 6gigs for newer games and then add like 20 gigs to be safe. Doubt that will be near 600 gigs, 300 would cover Vista, lots of music/movies/games and have plenty left over. I was just saying if you were considering getting a raptor hard drive should go that route instead.
 
Well, i'll probably have about 10-15 games on here...so that should take up no more than 80GB. That leaves me with about 60GB for music, videos, pictures, programs, etc. Plenty of room for my needs.
 
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I'm thinking of upgrading to Windows Vista Home Premium 64-bit...first of all, would it benefit me, second, can i actually run it with my specs listed in the first post (assume a GeForce 8800 GT 512MB), and third, how is driver support for most games and such for 64-bit systems?
 
With your current build, I'd advise you not to get Vista 64-bit, because the point of 64-bit OSes is to use more RAM than 32-bit ones. However, because you only have 2 gigs of RAM, you won't have any extra RAM that the 32-bit version of Vista can't use. Also, when there is a substantial new feature, there is usually a trade-off, and in the case of 64-bit, it loses backwards compatibility for older programs. While you would be able to run it with your specs and driver support is fairly good, I think you're better off not getting 64-bit with your current build.
 
[quote name='SynGamer']I'm thinking of upgrading to Windows Vista Home Premium 64-bit...first of all, would it benefit me, second, can i actually run it with my specs listed in the first post (assume a GeForce 8800 GT 512MB), and third, how is driver support for most games and such for 64-bit systems?[/quote]


Fine on anything that isn't 16bit or lower. This includes installs that are in 16bit (which can sometimes be bypassed) and games that may install 32bit but only run in 16bit.

Diablo 2 & Starcraft should be fine (Especially if you download from Blizzard after putting keys into a Blizzard account), but a lot of stuff from around then is questionable. Anything before that likely will not run.

If you have Windows XP you can install that first and then install Vista which will automatically setup dual booting for you. However when I did it I found it too inconvient to bother 99% of the time when I ran 64bit Vista. Now I stick to 32bit Vista for the time being and took dual booting out of the equation. Though that's more for my convience than anything.
 
Well, i couldn't get the upgrade page to work at Microsoft.com (I have a 32-bit Vista DVD) but i only have 2 GB of ram so there really is no need to go 64-bit right now. Perhaps if i find a good deal on memory (4GB+) i may upgrade.
 
4850 imo.
crysis3bb6.png
 
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Just grabbed a VisionTek Radeon HD 4850 512MB for $160.98 shipped thanks to the live.com 25% cashback on eBay. Card is brand new, in box, and VisionTek has a lifetime warranty...
 
Parts will start arriving today and i was wondering how i should mount my CPU HSF? I was thinking front-to-back, fan facing towards the front of the case, drawing air in and straight through on out to the back of the case. If temps aren't to my liking i'll install a 90mm fan on the side panel which is directly over the HSF, and would provide addition air pumping right onto it. Suggestions?
 
Well, my power supply, graphics card, motherboard, and case have all arrived. All i'm waiting for is the memory...next week :( Damn ZipZoomFly.com shipping.
 
[quote name='52club']OP, I've also decided to build my own PC. So far I've only purchased the case for $22 after rebate from Radio Shack. I'm overwhelmed with the number of MB/processor options at this point. http://www.thermaltake.com/product/Chassis/midtower/wingRs100/vg1000bns.asp[/QUOTE]
Couple questions you can ask yourself to make it easier.

Which video card will you be buying?

Do you want the x2 tech for the card (crossfire or sli)?

Do you need extras such as firewire?

Do you want to go for a quad core now and hope companies move to support core optimization, or stick with a dual and have a higher speed for cheaper, but might potentially have to replace it sooner?


Some helpful tips.

4-4-4-12 ddr2 800 is almost precisely as fast as 1066 at lower (5-5-5-15) timings, and can be had for cheaper. Stick with ddr2 800 for now. ddr3 is not worth it.

Always buy more PSU than you need. You never know if you'll want to add more devices down the line. You don't need to get ridiculous like grabbing that 1000w psu when you only need 400w.
 
[quote name='crystalklear64']Couple questions you can ask yourself to make it easier.

Which video card will you be buying?

Do you want the x2 tech for the card (crossfire or sli)?

Do you need extras such as firewire?

Do you want to go for a quad core now and hope companies move to support core optimization, or stick with a dual and have a higher speed for cheaper, but might potentially have to replace it sooner?

Some helpful tips.

4-4-4-12 ddr2 800 is almost precisely as fast as 1066 at lower (5-5-5-15) timings, and can be had for cheaper. Stick with ddr2 800 for now. ddr3 is not worth it.

Always buy more PSU than you need. You never know if you'll want to add more devices down the line. You don't need to get ridiculous like grabbing that 1000w psu when you only need 400w.[/quote]
I'd go even further and ask what intentions he has for the new PC. Gaming? CAD/Graphics design? Multitasking and/or work environment? From there we could tailor what he wants/needs. He could probably get a great deal on a motherboard and memory at Newegg, just to start things off.
 
[quote name='SynGamer']I'd go even further and ask what intentions he has for the new PC. Gaming? CAD/Graphics design? Multitasking and/or work environment? From there we could tailor what he wants/needs. He could probably get a great deal on a motherboard and memory at Newegg, just to start things off.[/QUOTE]
Well of course, but he was looking at a mobo/cpu specifically, so the questions are aimed at that specifically.
 
Alright, i have an E7200 and OCZ DDR2 800 PC-6400...i wan to overclock both but have no idea where to begin. The FSB basically determines everything from what i've gathered, that and the multiplier. I adjust the FSB and the multiplier ups the CPU's speed...but what about memory? I'm only looking to slightly overclock, nothing drastic. If i can get the CPU around 3.0GHz, that would be great, but if it's below 3.0, that's fine as well.
 
Are you looking for a synched overclock or just trying to max out each component?

Heres a simple guide for just overclocking the memory if you don't care about synched overclocking-

[quote name='EclipseOC OC Guide']OC'ing Procedure
First step is to find the stable timings at the stock speed of your memory (or motherboard if you have faster than PC6400). Two examples here, first is if you have some PC5300, the motherboard will default the memory speed to 333MHz, even though it supports higher. The other option is with something faster, like PC9600, at the moment, the highest supported memory speed is PC6400, so the motherboard will default that PC9600 to 400MHz. Then at that speed, lower the timings one at a time until the lowest values that are still stable have been obtained.
After the tightest timings at stock are found, raise the timings one at a time until you find the one that makes the largest MHz increase over your previous timings, and find the max. Repeat until higher timings do not gain more than 10MHz.

For a more explicit breakdown, I'll explain what to do more explicitly with some examples.

Get memtest86+ and install it on a floppy or cd if you don't have a motherboard that has it on the bios (DFI). Boot with the memtest floppy/cd in to make sure it boots into that instead of your normal OS. Once you have confirmed this, hit escape to reboot and then go into the bios.

What we're gonna do the first step I talked about before, finding the tightest timings the memory can run at stock speeds. First, manually set the timings to the rated speed of the memory, no "auto" settings should be seen for Tcl, Trcd, Trp or Tras!

From here, we will work on one timing at a time.
start with Cas latency (Tcl)
1. Lower timing one step, save bios and restart, boot into memtest.
2. In memtest, change to test #5, loop it one to three times. (less if you're in a hurry, more for more 'accurate' results)
3. If memtest displays no errors, go back to step 1, if you do get errors, continue to step 4. If it does not boot, either hit the reset button while holding down insert or clear the BIOS, re-enter the settings that you had just tried to boot with and continue to step 4.
4. Raise timing one step, then go back to step 1, but with Trcd, then Trp. Adjust Tras when needed to keep it equal to Tcl + Trcd + 2

When completed all 3 timings, run a few full passes of memtest to ensure that it is at least slightly stable. Then write down what the timings are somewhere. We have just completed the first step!


Now, the where the real fun begins. We're gonna find the maximum speed at each set of timings, however, it's gonna take a long time unless you're good at guessing :)
1. Bump up the FSB or HTT up 2-3 MHz
2. Boot into windows
3. Run SuperPI 2M
4. If no error, continue to step 5. If there is an error, go to step 6.
5. Raise FSB or HTT 2-3MHz with a program like clockgen or systool and go back to step 3.
6. Drop the FSB or HTT 1MHz
7. Run as many SuperPI 32M instances as your CPU supports threads (ie: dual core, run two instances of superPI out of seperate folders). If there is an error, go back to step 6. If no error, continue to step 8.
8. Run 32M one more to double check stability, then write down the MHz obtained along with the timings and voltage used to get there. I recommend making a chart for this, tabulating the maximum MHz at each set of timings and voltage.


Now we have two options: bump up memory voltage, or raise the timings. I advise first finding the timing sets that should be focused on, then change the voltage with each of these until you have tested each timing set with the voltage settings that you feel are safe for normal operation. Either way you go, follow the above steps to find the maximum stable speed. You should always test things systematically.

For the timings, you should change one timing at a time until you find which ones make a significant effect on maximum MHz. This is something that will take a bit of playing around and guess-work until you find something that works out well. Again, be sure to only change on timing at once, and do not touch the voltage at this time.

If you decide to increase voltage, be sure to only change voltage, leave all the timings alone. One rule I try to follow at all times when overclocking is only change one variable at a time. If more than one is changed at once, you don't know how much each is effecting effecting stability.
Start out at stock voltage (2.6v for DDR1 and 1.8v for DDR2) and test 0.05v to 0.1v higher, find max, increase voltage again, find max, etc.. until you decide that the voltage is high enough.
This will vary for all ICs, refer to the quick guide for ICs at the end of this guide. Be very careful with voltage, as some can fail prematurely if you give it too much. Also, always be aware of the temps your sticks are running at when overclocking.[/quote]
Link- http://eclipseoc.com/index.php?id=6,51,0,0,1,0
 
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Well if you want super easy mode overclocking with settings that have worked in the past,
Set your FSB to 333.
Set your vcore to Auto or 1.21 if it doesn't work.
Disable Speedstep
oh also multiplier @ 9.5 but that should already be there since its the default

This should take you past 3ghz. Normally, you don't go straight to a setting, you work your way up slowly, but this has worked for almost everyone with that cpu from what I've seen so you should be good to go. Of course it takes all the fun out of overclocking imo, but you could probably go higher if you wanted.

Make sure your temps are around 60 over 65 and you'll need to think about lowering your voltage.
 
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You should mention that SuperPI is not a realistic stressing tool. Use something more serious like OCCT or Prime 95 (10k or larger).
 
[quote name='SynGamer'] If temps aren't to my liking i'll install a 90mm fan on the side panel which is directly over the HSF, and would provide addition air pumping right onto it. Suggestions?[/quote]

The cooler fins will only run one way, so you can't have fans blowing from 2 perpendicular directions. Assuming you're using an 80-120 mm fan, and your board has monitoring and voltage control, it will be fine.

As a general rule, you need to have a basic airflow path, entering at the bottom and exiting at the top (the isolated bottom mounted PSUs are an exception). Try to set up your fans so that they push air in the same direction. If you mount fans with conflicting airflow you'll create hot spots in the case.
 
[quote name='Richard Longfellow']The cooler fins will only run one way, so you can't have fans blowing from 2 perpendicular directions. Assuming you're using an 80-120 mm fan, and your board has monitoring and voltage control, it will be fine.

As a general rule, you need to have a basic airflow path, entering at the bottom and exiting at the top (the isolated bottom mounted PSUs are an exception). Try to set up your fans so that they push air in the same direction. If you mount fans with conflicting airflow you'll create hot spots in the case.[/quote]
My thinking was that the 90mm fan is directly in-front of/over the CPU and HSF and i could make the 90mm side fan slower than the one on the HSF? Also, with the placement of the graphics card, i'm thinking about possibly putting a fan at the bottom of the case near the HDD bays and having it blow straight up? Only concern is the graphics card but it has a fan on the card itself and the side vent is literally right beside it. By the way, this is my actual case that i'm using.

The front and rear fans are 120mm's, just to clarify.

12186252is8.png
 
Eh, from the pics I've seen - your OCZ hsf is eerily similar to AC Freezer series heatsink. Which is NOT a top-down airflow-based heatsink. Your CPU vent really won't be doing much at all b/c the cool air that is blowing into the heatsink is coming from the front of OCZ heatsink (which is on a perpendicular plane).

If anything, I'd probably block off the vents to accentuate the front to back airflow in your case.

I kind of have issue with the CPU side vents in general b/c I see it more as a ricer thing than anything else. It's a by-product of the old-school days of top-down cooling, which are long over.
 
I'm not going to use a 90mm fan, i might just keep the air-duct installed instead and extent it up to the HSF (which will be front-to-back).
 
Checking the specs on my motherboard, i noticed the following;

  • 1 x CPU fan header
  • 2 x system fan headers
  • 1 x power fan header
Now...i have front and rear 120mm fans and i would like to be able to control them but they have 4-pin (molex?) connectors which i believe means they plug directly into the PSU. What should i do, what are my options? Should i just connect them to the PSU and let them go at whatever speed is default? Am i able to hook them up to my motherboard and control them via software? Should i get a an controller (i would prefer to avoid this)?
 
[quote name='SynGamer']Checking the specs on my motherboard, i noticed the following;

  • 1 x CPU fan header
  • 2 x system fan headers
  • 1 x power fan header
Now...i have front and rear 120mm fans and i would like to be able to control them but they have 4-pin (molex?) connectors which i believe means they plug directly into the PSU. What should i do, what are my options? Should i just connect them to the PSU and let them go at whatever speed is default? Am i able to hook them up to my motherboard and control them via software? Should i get a an controller (i would prefer to avoid this)?[/quote]

The fans didn't come with multiple plugs? If not you can buy separate connectors to plug them into the board. The main thing is to confirm that your board does indeed have temperature monitoring and voltage control, otherwise they're running at full speed period.
 
I'm not sure how to check any of that...and the fans came with..um...

OOOO
(_)(_)(_)(_)

Basically it looks like two 4-pin connectors that could fit together.
 
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Intel Core 2 Duo E7200 Wolfdale 2.53GHz LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor Model BX80571E7200 - Retail
$130

G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-6400CL5D-2GBNQ - Retail
$45

ASUS P5Q LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
$130

Antec earthwatts EA430 430W ATX12V v2.0 Power Supply - Retail
$60-$30 Rebate=$30

SAPPHIRE 100242L Radeon HD 4850 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card - Retail
$190-$30 Rebate=$160-$15 instant rebate=$145

HITACHI Deskstar P7K500 HDP725032GLA360 (0A35411) 320GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive -
$50

LG 20X DVD±R Super Multi DVD Burner Black ATAPI / E-IDE Model GSA-H55NK - OEM
$24

At about $630 before OS

I've got this case as mentioned before
http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/thermaltake_wing_rs_100_case/7.htm


My questions are:

Is the power supply sufficient?

I'm planning on purchasing a systems builders OS, I searched google, but I'm really looking for a site that does the pros and cons of XP vs Vista 32bit vs Vista 64 bit other than just that Vista 64 accepts more than 3gigs of Ram.

Other than the fans that come with the case/parts should I add any other fans?

I'm trying to get a decent PC with parts that aren't top notch, but are a great value, please mention any better values that I might have missed.
 
You will want to pick up 1 more 120mm fan for the front of the case, like i did. I grabbed another Thermaltake because it pushes good air (78 CFM) and is rather quiet (
 
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