CAG Gran Turismo 5 [CAG Race Night - Now Sundays at 6PM PST!]
- Thread starter j-cart
- Start date
smthng
CAGiversary!
[quote name='SynGamer']I think i'm going to take this week off. We'll get a solid race line-up posted early next week and then try to organize the Endurance race the following week.[/QUOTE]
Is it safe to assume that we're not having the endurance race this weekend?
We got anything running tomorrow?
Is it safe to assume that we're not having the endurance race this weekend?
We got anything running tomorrow?
[quote name='smthng']Is it safe to assume that we're not having the endurance race this weekend?
We got anything running tomorrow?[/QUOTE]
No endurance, not yet. It's been a bit busy considering all the new releases lately, plus Thanksgiving coming up soon. I'm up for a *mini* endurance race, 10 laps...
The race line-up for tomorrow is:
Kart Space II Stock Karts - 7 laps
Indy Road Course - 550PP Mustangs vs Camaros w/Racing Hard - 5 laps
Autumn Ring - 400PP FF Drivetrain w/Sports Soft on Autumn ring - 4 laps
Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps - 550PP 4WD w/Racing Soft - penalties weak, boost high, damage light - 10 laps
We got anything running tomorrow?[/QUOTE]
No endurance, not yet. It's been a bit busy considering all the new releases lately, plus Thanksgiving coming up soon. I'm up for a *mini* endurance race, 10 laps...
The race line-up for tomorrow is:
Kart Space II Stock Karts - 7 laps
Indy Road Course - 550PP Mustangs vs Camaros w/Racing Hard - 5 laps
Autumn Ring - 400PP FF Drivetrain w/Sports Soft on Autumn ring - 4 laps
Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps - 550PP 4WD w/Racing Soft - penalties weak, boost high, damage light - 10 laps
[quote name='smthng']Only if you're on in two hours... Wife just started a movie while I finally get around to wiring up the sound system.
I'm good for tomorrow though.[/QUOTE]
I was suggesting tomorrow night, but I'm definitely up for some racing tonight around 9 PM EST
I'm good for tomorrow though.[/QUOTE]
I was suggesting tomorrow night, but I'm definitely up for some racing tonight around 9 PM EST
smthng
CAGiversary!
Hadn't noticed the actual lineup until you mentioned it. Works for me.
PS3 already wired into the sound system and tested, so it should remain safe... Most of tomorrow will be beating the PC into actually outputting 7.1 surround. Most of the sound card and MoBo manufacturers like to put HDMI logos on the box, but very few of them actually do a full spec output... They all just want a box to check on comparison charts. :S
PS3 already wired into the sound system and tested, so it should remain safe... Most of tomorrow will be beating the PC into actually outputting 7.1 surround. Most of the sound card and MoBo manufacturers like to put HDMI logos on the box, but very few of them actually do a full spec output... They all just want a box to check on comparison charts. :S
If anyone is interested in a fun afternoon race, I'm online right now.
EDIT: just did 10 laps on Spa...tires were down to about 25%-30% and fuel was about roughly 55-60%. Took 27 minutes and 13 seconds to complete 10 laps. When we do our 2 hour endurance I'm expecting we'll need to pit around lap 12 or 13for new tires. Fuel shouldn't be an issue Might drop the laps down to 40 for the endurance race in order to keep it around 2 hours.
EDIT: just did 10 laps on Spa...tires were down to about 25%-30% and fuel was about roughly 55-60%. Took 27 minutes and 13 seconds to complete 10 laps. When we do our 2 hour endurance I'm expecting we'll need to pit around lap 12 or 13for new tires. Fuel shouldn't be an issue
Might drop the laps down to 40 for the endurance race in order to keep it around 2 hours.
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Curious if anyone is interested in some racing this weekend? I know Jan 1st is Sunday, but I have Monday off so I'm quite interested in hanging out with you fellows again and having some fun...
Depending on interest, I'll have a room up at the usual 8:45 PM EST. I'll need to jump on earlier to download the newest patch.
Depending on interest, I'll have a room up at the usual 8:45 PM EST. I'll need to jump on earlier to download the newest patch.
Happy New Year everybody!
It's been awhile since we all last raced on GT5 but I thought tonight would be a great time to kick off the new year the right way. There's a new patch (2.02) that includes new tire wear, new engine sounds, and a few free cars (Toyota 86 GT and a new 125 Kart) for anyone that bought the first DLC.
So with that in mind, lets have some fun tonight! The tentative race line-up is below:
I'll have the room up at 8:45PM EST, and smthng has already confirmed he will be on tonight. Hope to see you all there!
EDIT: Note penalties will be on weak. We've found in the past it works quite well for preventing major collisions and corner cutting without being too severe.
It's been awhile since we all last raced on GT5 but I thought tonight would be a great time to kick off the new year the right way. There's a new patch (2.02) that includes new tire wear, new engine sounds, and a few free cars (Toyota 86 GT and a new 125 Kart) for anyone that bought the first DLC.
So with that in mind, lets have some fun tonight! The tentative race line-up is below:
- 425PP on Eiger Short - 5 laps (Limitation: Marcos Mini only)
- 450PP on Cape Ring Inside - 5 laps
- 475PP on Tsukuba Circuit - 5 laps (Limitation: MR cars only)
- 610PP on Daytona Road Course - 4 laps (Limitation: Lamborghini vs Ferrari)
- 550PP on Spa - 3 laps (Limitation: 4WD only)
I'll have the room up at 8:45PM EST, and smthng has already confirmed he will be on tonight. Hope to see you all there!
EDIT: Note penalties will be on weak. We've found in the past it works quite well for preventing major collisions and corner cutting without being too severe.
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Ace_Defective
CAGiversary!
I'm in for tonight.
[quote name='Mad39er']I haven't reinstalled GT5, let me get on that and see where I end up.[/QUOTE]
Good to hear Mad. I edited my post above, so just a quite note for everyone:
Penalties will be on weak. We've found in the past it works quite well for preventing major collisions and corner cutting without being too severe.
Good to hear Mad. I edited my post above, so just a quite note for everyone:
Penalties will be on weak. We've found in the past it works quite well for preventing major collisions and corner cutting without being too severe.
smthng
CAGiversary!
Mad, looks like it's a no go this week. I can be available, but without more peeps I'm pretty sure you'll spank me regardless of tuning.
Luan, personally I hate drifting in just about every game that's attempted it. IMO, there a nuances of how a car feels when it's about to lose or regain traction that simple can't be conveyed in a sim.
Luan, personally I hate drifting in just about every game that's attempted it. IMO, there a nuances of how a car feels when it's about to lose or regain traction that simple can't be conveyed in a sim.
For some reason this thread didn't show up as recently commented in. I'll be on tonight, I wouldn't mind some fun races. Could someone post a 4-5 track race line-up?
EDIT: can we have a 5 lap race on Rome? Not sure on the cars/limitations but I wouldn't mind a Rome race.
EDIT: can we have a 5 lap race on Rome? Not sure on the cars/limitations but I wouldn't mind a Rome race.
MW3 is having another Vengeful Beast event running 8 to 11 EST tonight, I'm not sure how I did yesterday but I want to give that my best shot at winning since it's for an iPod Touch.
As of the last time I checked they only had like 3 events going on, they updated when I checked yesterday and have since committed myself towards that tonight.
As of the last time I checked they only had like 3 events going on, they updated when I checked yesterday and have since committed myself towards that tonight.
[quote name='SynGamer']Ah, if that's the case and only 2 of us are confirmed then I likely won't be on. I need at least 3 people online total (min.) to race.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, sorry about that, I thought it was safe that we weren't racing when nobody replied until today. I really want to race but I need to get my practice in, hopefully win me some swag.
Yeah, sorry about that, I thought it was safe that we weren't racing when nobody replied until today. I really want to race but I need to get my practice in, hopefully win me some swag.
Heads down. PS3 took its last breath a few weeks ago.
I know I haven't been around and that is my fault with work/life/girls/SWTOR.
I will miss our races. I was never really good, but I enjoyed every bit of them. Oh crap hang on, need to get rid of this raccoon.
I know I haven't been around and that is my fault with work/life/girls/SWTOR.
I will miss our races. I was never really good, but I enjoyed every bit of them. Oh crap hang on, need to get rid of this raccoon.
RIP j-cart. Are you going to replace your PS3 down the road?
Side note, I'll be starting (and hopefully completing) my [WIP] PVC Racing Rig for Gran Turismo 5 this weekend. Feel free to follow the progress. Once it's complete, I'll need to put in a few hours to get use to the wheel, but I wouldn't mind scheduling a CAG night next weekend (Feb 18th) or the weekend after that (Feb 25th).
Side note, I'll be starting (and hopefully completing) my [WIP] PVC Racing Rig for Gran Turismo 5 this weekend. Feel free to follow the progress. Once it's complete, I'll need to put in a few hours to get use to the wheel, but I wouldn't mind scheduling a CAG night next weekend (Feb 18th) or the weekend after that (Feb 25th).
[quote name='SynGamer']RIP j-cart. Are you going to replace your PS3 down the road?
Side note, I'll be starting (and hopefully completing) my [WIP] PVC Racing Rig for Gran Turismo 5 this weekend. Feel free to follow the progress. Once it's complete, I'll need to put in a few hours to get use to the wheel, but I wouldn't mind scheduling a CAG night next weekend (Feb 18th) or the weekend after that (Feb 25th).[/QUOTE]
This is the third time my PS3 has crapped out on me, so the short answer is no, I will not replace it. I have the money and the means, but I have had enough with broken consoles. I do have a plan to fix it, but like all plans, it needs to be put into action. When that will be? No idea.
Jealous you are getting that racing wheel chair put together.
I'm not race-less though, I do happen to have F1 2011 on the PC if anyone is willing to use that god forbidden GFWL.
Side note, I'll be starting (and hopefully completing) my [WIP] PVC Racing Rig for Gran Turismo 5 this weekend. Feel free to follow the progress. Once it's complete, I'll need to put in a few hours to get use to the wheel, but I wouldn't mind scheduling a CAG night next weekend (Feb 18th) or the weekend after that (Feb 25th).[/QUOTE]
This is the third time my PS3 has crapped out on me, so the short answer is no, I will not replace it. I have the money and the means, but I have had enough with broken consoles. I do have a plan to fix it, but like all plans, it needs to be put into action. When that will be? No idea.
Jealous you are getting that racing wheel chair put together.
I'm not race-less though, I do happen to have F1 2011 on the PC if anyone is willing to use that god forbidden GFWL.
For those following my progress on the racing rig, I dry fitted the front half last night. I Just ordered the seat, mount, and sliding bracket this morning ($107 shipped). Total cost for this project, minus the miter saw (which I can use for other things in the future) is around $200, so far
PROGRESS: http://www.cheapassgamer.com/forums/blog.php?b=23532
PROGRESS: http://www.cheapassgamer.com/forums/blog.php?b=23532
smthng
CAGiversary!
Pretty sweet, dude, but...
With that many joints, I'd use a rubber mallet to tap each joint together after cementing them. You want the PVC joints as snug as possible so they take the weight and the cement it just stopping them from moving. Otherwise, that thing is gonna squeak from fifteen different places every time you turn.
With that many joints, I'd use a rubber mallet to tap each joint together after cementing them. You want the PVC joints as snug as possible so they take the weight and the cement it just stopping them from moving. Otherwise, that thing is gonna squeak from fifteen different places every time you turn.
[quote name='smthng']Oh... and I hope that little "plank" is just a placeholder to mock up the seat. You want the weight distributed much further from front to back, otherwise you're gonna crack smthng.[/QUOTE]
Yep, I have a rubber mallet in one of the boxes. Will be doing exactly as you say. I toyed with the idea of bolting everything together, but aside from having to drill a lot a holes...well yeah, I don't want to drill a lot of holes
I WILL be using bolts to connect both halves, should make transporting it much easier, especially with out move coming up in April. Here's hoping everything goes well tomorrow. Oh, and yes, that piece of plywood is placeholder. I'm going to get a 5/8" piece tomorrow at Home Depot. I'm currently using 1/2" for the wheel and pedal mounts since those won't have as much force on them (I hope).
Yep, I have a rubber mallet in one of the boxes. Will be doing exactly as you say. I toyed with the idea of bolting everything together, but aside from having to drill a lot a holes...well yeah, I don't want to drill a lot of holes
I WILL be using bolts to connect both halves, should make transporting it much easier, especially with out move coming up in April. Here's hoping everything goes well tomorrow. Oh, and yes, that piece of plywood is placeholder. I'm going to get a 5/8" piece tomorrow at Home Depot. I'm currently using 1/2" for the wheel and pedal mounts since those won't have as much force on them (I hope).
smthng
CAGiversary!
Good call... bolting that many joints would actually end up being weaker than glue.
If you're going to your local Home Despot or Lowez, take a look at their "specialty" woods. They both usually have a little section of odd wood, usually less than half a shelf. If you don't mind paying for it, you can get 1/2" oak or cherry, which will not only be stronger than 5/8" MDF (particle board), but will look hella better and produce FAR fewer splinters once sanded. Either wood wood work (heh), but I think you might like the final result far better with the oak panel for the seat base.
Looking good, dude! I might have to make me up smthng like that once I have a paycheck.
If you're going to your local Home Despot or Lowez, take a look at their "specialty" woods. They both usually have a little section of odd wood, usually less than half a shelf. If you don't mind paying for it, you can get 1/2" oak or cherry, which will not only be stronger than 5/8" MDF (particle board), but will look hella better and produce FAR fewer splinters once sanded. Either wood wood work (heh), but I think you might like the final result far better with the oak panel for the seat base.
Looking good, dude! I might have to make me up smthng like that once I have a paycheck.
[quote name='smthng']Good call... bolting that many joints would actually end up being weaker than glue.
If you're going to your local Home Despot or Lowez, take a look at their "specialty" woods. They both usually have a little section of odd wood, usually less than half a shelf. If you don't mind paying for it, you can get 1/2" oak or cherry, which will not only be stronger than 5/8" MDF (particle board), but will look hella better and produce FAR fewer splinters once sanded. Either wood wood work (heh), but I think you might like the final result far better with the oak panel for the seat base.
Looking good, dude! I might have to make me up smthng like that once I have a paycheck.[/QUOTE]
My personal preference for that much PVC would probably be adding in some sand or lead shot for weight. If you use a 2" tees(prime and glue) and plugs(which you don't have to glue) you can add in all you want into whatever side. PVC is very light weight and you may run into an issue of it not being heavy enough in certain areas. Also you can use unions to make it easier to strip down for storage - ie; putting unions on the steering wheel section so you can slide the whole thing under a bed or couch and it makes reassembly a snap
I've used some thick sanded board from Home Depot before, it might have been cabinet board, it definitely wasn't MDF and it was basically finished without stain. That thing was awesome to lay down on compared to plywood I've laid down on in the past. It is definitely more expensive but since you don't have to sand it and it smooth, it's worth it.
If you're going to your local Home Despot or Lowez, take a look at their "specialty" woods. They both usually have a little section of odd wood, usually less than half a shelf. If you don't mind paying for it, you can get 1/2" oak or cherry, which will not only be stronger than 5/8" MDF (particle board), but will look hella better and produce FAR fewer splinters once sanded. Either wood wood work (heh), but I think you might like the final result far better with the oak panel for the seat base.
Looking good, dude! I might have to make me up smthng like that once I have a paycheck.[/QUOTE]
My personal preference for that much PVC would probably be adding in some sand or lead shot for weight. If you use a 2" tees(prime and glue) and plugs(which you don't have to glue) you can add in all you want into whatever side. PVC is very light weight and you may run into an issue of it not being heavy enough in certain areas. Also you can use unions to make it easier to strip down for storage - ie; putting unions on the steering wheel section so you can slide the whole thing under a bed or couch and it makes reassembly a snap
I've used some thick sanded board from Home Depot before, it might have been cabinet board, it definitely wasn't MDF and it was basically finished without stain. That thing was awesome to lay down on compared to plywood I've laid down on in the past. It is definitely more expensive but since you don't have to sand it and it smooth, it's worth it.
The two 9" pieces (in the middle) that connect the front and the back are going to be bolted together. That way I can undo 4 bolts and voila!, the rig is now in two pieces. After the complete dry-fit last night, it became apparent I have the wrong endcaps. The ones I purchased are very rounded, think torpedo's. I need something that is flat so that when it rests on the ground the weight is distributed evenly. Currently, with enough pressure (again, dry fit) it will collapse to one side or the other.
Regarding gluing...and suggestions? I'm going to make my marks so that things are aligned properly before I give the normal 1/4th turn/twist. Is there anything I can use to ensure the best...seal? Should I really glob the cement on there? Is less more? This is my first time working with PVC so I want to do it right the first time.
EDIT: also, regarding the board that will be used for the seat, I definitely want to go at least 5/8", preferably something with a bit of weight. As you mentioned Mad, this may bit too light when it's completely assembled. I myself weigh 150 lbs, the seat is 15 lbs, and the mount and sliding bracket combine for 10 lbs. That right there is roughly 175 lbs being applied to the back half of the rig. I'm hoping that's enough considering I don't plan on twisting my body in the turns
EDIT2: when this project is initially completed (I still plan on painting later on) I'll make a new blog post with all of the updates. Updating my current post seems to be falling on def ears
Regarding gluing...and suggestions? I'm going to make my marks so that things are aligned properly before I give the normal 1/4th turn/twist. Is there anything I can use to ensure the best...seal? Should I really glob the cement on there? Is less more? This is my first time working with PVC so I want to do it right the first time.
EDIT: also, regarding the board that will be used for the seat, I definitely want to go at least 5/8", preferably something with a bit of weight. As you mentioned Mad, this may bit too light when it's completely assembled. I myself weigh 150 lbs, the seat is 15 lbs, and the mount and sliding bracket combine for 10 lbs. That right there is roughly 175 lbs being applied to the back half of the rig. I'm hoping that's enough considering I don't plan on twisting my body in the turns
EDIT2: when this project is initially completed (I still plan on painting later on) I'll make a new blog post with all of the updates. Updating my current post seems to be falling on def ears
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[quote name='SynGamer']The two 9" pieces (in the middle) that connect the front and the back are going to be bolted together. That way I can undo 4 bolts and voila!, the rig is now in two pieces. After the complete dry-fit last night, it became apparent I have the wrong endcaps. The ones I purchased are very rounded, think torpedo's. I need something that is flat so that when it rests on the ground the weight is distributed evenly. Currently, with enough pressure (again, dry fit) it will collapse to one side or the other.
Regarding gluing...and suggestions? I'm going to make my marks so that things are aligned properly before I give the normal 1/4th turn/twist. Is there anything I can use to ensure the best...seal? Should I really glob the cement on there? Is less more? This is my first time working with PVC so I want to do it right the first time.
EDIT: also, regarding the board that will be used for the seat, I definitely want to go at least 5/8", preferably something with a bit of weight. As you mentioned Mad, this may bit too light when it's completely assembled. I myself weigh 150 lbs, the seat is 15 lbs, and the mount and sliding bracket combine for 10 lbs. That right there is roughly 175 lbs being applied to the back half of the rig. I'm hoping that's enough considering I don't plan on twisting my body in the turns[/QUOTE]
My only concern about drilling PVC is that the older and drier it gets, the more prone to cracking it is. Usually PVC will bend before it breaks but any stress points will weaken it structurally. Since it's PVC however you can just cut the sections and remake them if they break. As for the caps, there isn't much out there. Some of them have little nubs on them for grip but the majority out there are smooth ended caps. What you can probably do is throw some no-hub or something over the caps, the rubber will create the friction you need for it not to move much. Just go to Homie Depot or whatever and see if you can stretch some 2" no hub over a 2" PVC cap.
As for gluing, prime both the end going in and the fitting, glue the end of the pipe and send it on it's way. If you can twist it, great. If not, smack that sumbitch home and be done with it. Priming is going to be the important part, if you just glue any sections without priming, they won't "melt" into the PVC and join properly for supporting your 150LB excuse for a man body. Also any vibrations and such can break the glue if not primed.
Regarding gluing...and suggestions? I'm going to make my marks so that things are aligned properly before I give the normal 1/4th turn/twist. Is there anything I can use to ensure the best...seal? Should I really glob the cement on there? Is less more? This is my first time working with PVC so I want to do it right the first time.
EDIT: also, regarding the board that will be used for the seat, I definitely want to go at least 5/8", preferably something with a bit of weight. As you mentioned Mad, this may bit too light when it's completely assembled. I myself weigh 150 lbs, the seat is 15 lbs, and the mount and sliding bracket combine for 10 lbs. That right there is roughly 175 lbs being applied to the back half of the rig. I'm hoping that's enough considering I don't plan on twisting my body in the turns
[/QUOTE]My only concern about drilling PVC is that the older and drier it gets, the more prone to cracking it is. Usually PVC will bend before it breaks but any stress points will weaken it structurally. Since it's PVC however you can just cut the sections and remake them if they break. As for the caps, there isn't much out there. Some of them have little nubs on them for grip but the majority out there are smooth ended caps. What you can probably do is throw some no-hub or something over the caps, the rubber will create the friction you need for it not to move much. Just go to Homie Depot or whatever and see if you can stretch some 2" no hub over a 2" PVC cap.
As for gluing, prime both the end going in and the fitting, glue the end of the pipe and send it on it's way. If you can twist it, great. If not, smack that sumbitch home and be done with it. Priming is going to be the important part, if you just glue any sections without priming, they won't "melt" into the PVC and join properly for supporting your 150LB excuse for a man body. Also any vibrations and such can break the glue if not primed.
I'm not sure if you've insulted me or complimented me...anyway
My reasoning for bolting the two halves together is obviously for portability, especially with our move in April coming up. Even if I bolt it, assuming it doesn't crack, I have the 40" piece on the right that runs from the bottom of the back half to the top of the wheel mount area. I'm hoping between that piece and the bolts in the middle, I'll have more than enough to keep the rig straight/rigid.
Regarding the priming, should I wait for it to dry? Or prime both ends and then cement the pipe and slam it in? As it currently stands, I need to clean the ends of each piece a bit as there are still a few shavings from the cuts left over. Otherwise, a few pieces need to be trimmed and I should be good to go. The seat/back half going to be the most frustrating. I have to bolt the wood mount for the seat to the PVC frame, all the while trying to take into account the proper height for it all to be at...going to be a long night...
My reasoning for bolting the two halves together is obviously for portability, especially with our move in April coming up. Even if I bolt it, assuming it doesn't crack, I have the 40" piece on the right that runs from the bottom of the back half to the top of the wheel mount area. I'm hoping between that piece and the bolts in the middle, I'll have more than enough to keep the rig straight/rigid.
Regarding the priming, should I wait for it to dry? Or prime both ends and then cement the pipe and slam it in? As it currently stands, I need to clean the ends of each piece a bit as there are still a few shavings from the cuts left over. Otherwise, a few pieces need to be trimmed and I should be good to go. The seat/back half going to be the most frustrating. I have to bolt the wood mount for the seat to the PVC frame, all the while trying to take into account the proper height for it all to be at...going to be a long night...
[quote name='SynGamer']I'm not sure if you've insulted me or complimented me...anyway
My reasoning for bolting the two halves together is obviously for portability, especially with our move in April coming up. Even if I bolt it, assuming it doesn't crack, I have the 40" piece on the right that runs from the bottom of the back half to the top of the wheel mount area. I'm hoping between that piece and the bolts in the middle, I'll have more than enough to keep the rig straight/rigid.
Regarding the priming, should I wait for it to dry? Or prime both ends and then cement the pipe and slam it in? As it currently stands, I need to clean the ends of each piece a bit as there are still a few shavings from the cuts left over. Otherwise, a few pieces need to be trimmed and I should be good to go. The seat/back half going to be the most frustrating. I have to bolt the wood mount for the seat to the PVC frame, all the while trying to take into account the proper height for it all to be at...going to be a long night...[/QUOTE]In regards to priming, it's going to get
ing messy. Do it outside, over cardboard or get clear primer. Purple primer will get everywhere. You can prime everything before you glue it with or without much of a waiting period for it to dry, it'll dry stupidly fast but don't let it sit more than an hour or so since the primer actually softens the PVC so they chemically merge sort-of. I suggest wearing gloves because primer will find it's way into every cut and your fiancee may not let you give her purple handed love. If you spill the purple primer, clear primer is used to clean up purple primer, just an FYI.
What you may want to do is find U bolts to fit your 2" pipe and bolt your board to the pipe if possible that way. It'll let you take off the board without drilling into the PVC and use the structural properties of the PVC to your benefit.
My reasoning for bolting the two halves together is obviously for portability, especially with our move in April coming up. Even if I bolt it, assuming it doesn't crack, I have the 40" piece on the right that runs from the bottom of the back half to the top of the wheel mount area. I'm hoping between that piece and the bolts in the middle, I'll have more than enough to keep the rig straight/rigid.
Regarding the priming, should I wait for it to dry? Or prime both ends and then cement the pipe and slam it in? As it currently stands, I need to clean the ends of each piece a bit as there are still a few shavings from the cuts left over. Otherwise, a few pieces need to be trimmed and I should be good to go. The seat/back half going to be the most frustrating. I have to bolt the wood mount for the seat to the PVC frame, all the while trying to take into account the proper height for it all to be at...going to be a long night...[/QUOTE]In regards to priming, it's going to get
ing messy. Do it outside, over cardboard or get clear primer. Purple primer will get everywhere. You can prime everything before you glue it with or without much of a waiting period for it to dry, it'll dry stupidly fast but don't let it sit more than an hour or so since the primer actually softens the PVC so they chemically merge sort-of. I suggest wearing gloves because primer will find it's way into every cut and your fiancee may not let you give her purple handed love. If you spill the purple primer, clear primer is used to clean up purple primer, just an FYI.What you may want to do is find U bolts to fit your 2" pipe and bolt your board to the pipe if possible that way. It'll let you take off the board without drilling into the PVC and use the structural properties of the PVC to your benefit.
[quote name='Mad39er']What you may want to do is find U bolts to fit your 2" pipe and bolt your board to the pipe if possible that way. It'll let you take off the board without drilling into the PVC and use the structural properties of the PVC to your benefit.[/QUOTE]
That ising brilliant! I didn't even think of that, and I'm using U-bolts for the pedal mounts...I'll have to find some plastic caps to cover the thread sticking through the wheel mount, but damn if that isn't a great suggestion
That is
ing brilliant! I didn't even think of that, and I'm using U-bolts for the pedal mounts...I'll have to find some plastic caps to cover the thread sticking through the wheel mount, but damn if that isn't a great suggestion Went to HD today. Instead of going with the U-bolts, I decided to get 2" metal straps instead. *Should* work with the wheel + pedal mounts, not sure about the seat, we'll see. They should work, I just don't know if they are long enough.
In other news, this priming/cementing is taking forever. I'm waiting about 5 minutes after priming before I put on the cement...hop that's OK. Everything appears to be snug. I'll post pictures later tonight if I remember.
EDIT: Front half is almost finished. Currently letting it cure for a little bit.
In other news, this priming/cementing is taking forever. I'm waiting about 5 minutes after priming before I put on the cement...hop that's OK. Everything appears to be snug. I'll post pictures later tonight if I remember.
EDIT: Front half is almost finished. Currently letting it cure for a little bit.
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[quote name='SynGamer']That is ing brilliant! I didn't even think of that, and I'm using U-bolts for the pedal mounts...I'll have to find some plastic caps to cover the thread sticking through the wheel mount, but damn if that isn't a great suggestion [/QUOTE]
[quote name='SynGamer']Went to HD today. Instead of going with the U-bolts, I decided to get 2" metal straps instead. *Should* work with the wheel + pedal mounts, not sure about the seat, we'll see. They should work, I just don't know if they are long enough.
In other news, this priming/cementing is taking forever. I'm waiting about 5 minutes after priming before I put on the cement...hop that's OK. Everything appears to be snug. I'll post pictures later tonight if I remember.
EDIT: Front half is almost finished. Currently letting it cure for a little bit.[/QUOTE]
You can prime and glue pretty might right away. Once the primer soaks in it's ready for the glue. My personal preference with primering is when you first pull out that brush, drain the initial amount back into the can and make sure you use like just the bottom of the ball slightly dipped, run it around the pipe until it's dry from the brush and you can glue immediately as the primer soaks in.
As for the seat, you really want to make sure it's evenly distributed. Straps will work fine for the wheel and pedal mounts but for the seat you're going to want something stable. You may find something under conduit hangers if you have trouble with U bolts. Electrical section may have them.
ing brilliant! I didn't even think of that, and I'm using U-bolts for the pedal mounts...I'll have to find some plastic caps to cover the thread sticking through the wheel mount, but damn if that isn't a great suggestion [/QUOTE][quote name='SynGamer']Went to HD today. Instead of going with the U-bolts, I decided to get 2" metal straps instead. *Should* work with the wheel + pedal mounts, not sure about the seat, we'll see. They should work, I just don't know if they are long enough.
In other news, this priming/cementing is taking forever. I'm waiting about 5 minutes after priming before I put on the cement...hop that's OK. Everything appears to be snug. I'll post pictures later tonight if I remember.
EDIT: Front half is almost finished. Currently letting it cure for a little bit.[/QUOTE]
You can prime and glue pretty might right away. Once the primer soaks in it's ready for the glue. My personal preference with primering is when you first pull out that brush, drain the initial amount back into the can and make sure you use like just the bottom of the ball slightly dipped, run it around the pipe until it's dry from the brush and you can glue immediately as the primer soaks in.
As for the seat, you really want to make sure it's evenly distributed. Straps will work fine for the wheel and pedal mounts but for the seat you're going to want something stable. You may find something under conduit hangers if you have trouble with U bolts. Electrical section may have them.
bread's done