CAG Arcade Stick Thread

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*sigh* Sorry to spam up the thread everyone, but this is a project I would really like to get going on if it's cheaper than I thought. I took that link to Markman's page of stick rankings, and it seems that the HRAP3 would be a nice stick to start with.
Unfortunately, I looked online and I found THIS LINK which, based on the pictures I believe it shows rivets holding down the top?
I'll not beat around the bush. If those are rivets and not screws, I have no idea how I would open the thing.

Help?
 
I am modding a HRAP3 as well. I don't really know what I'm doing either, but I want to assume that if you open the stick up from the bottom, that you can disattach the rivets from the inside.

I ordered my Sanwa buttons, and a blue sparkly bubble top for my stick and am going to use this Ryu and Ken art. The guy that painted it, Giovany, has a sweet Blanka piece that I would love to use for a second joystick. (This is DrunkenNinja42's Template, I'll have to recreate it from the original art, and plan on keeping all 8 buttons).

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/1043/hrapartcopyeq9.jpg
 
[quote name='dv8mad']I'll not beat around the bush. If those are rivets and not screws, I have no idea how I would open the thing.

Help?[/quote]Those rivets you're talking about are actually screws. You need to remove the bottom metal base plate to get to them.
 
Need a standard Phillips screwdriver to open the bottom of the HRAP3. Once inside you will have access to the nuts. Use a 7mm nutdriver to take em out easily.

It's a bit of a pain modding it compared to an HRAP2SA (which you just need a hex key/half the time).
 
OK, thanks again everyone. I guess I will begin the HRAP3 (which will now be known as the 変態レイプ here in Japan! LOL) quest starting tomorrow!
 
can someone throw this art work on this template for me please.

ken.jpg


on the hori ex2 template that can be found here: http://www.donovanmyers.com/arcade/hori-shape.pdf

i was going to put the artwork into the buttons so if just the outline of the buttons and joystick was on the artwork that would be awesome, thanks to whoever can do this!
 
Silly question, but here goes:

Can i make a dual stick using a bluetooth wireless sixaxis PS3 controller and a wireless 360 controller?

I do well enough on a wireless 360 controller that i dont think my game will suffer going wireless. Can this be done?
 
Isn't it more of a bolt since a screw by nature is hold by threading in the material and a bolt is "a metal rod or pin for fastening objects together that usually has a head at one end and a screw thread at the other and is secured by a nut".

Anyway... Just got my TE stick and wow the packaging is fantastic on the outside. Makes me regret having my HRAP, not that I can justify keeping it either way if it's still fetching stupid amounts which it is.
 
[quote name='amusedtoe']Isn't it more of a bolt since a screw by nature is hold by threading in the material and a bolt is "a metal rod or pin for fastening objects together that usually has a head at one end and a screw thread at the other and is secured by a nut".[/QUOTE]

Its called a Carriage Bolt.

ca_bolt_1as.jpg
 
[quote name='blitz6speed']Silly question, but here goes:

Can i make a dual stick using a bluetooth wireless sixaxis PS3 controller and a wireless 360 controller?

I do well enough on a wireless 360 controller that i dont think my game will suffer going wireless. Can this be done?[/quote]
I do not believe so. Well, not right now. The ps3 sixaxis/ds3 pcbs have different grounds as opposed to a universal ground. i.e. there's a ground for start, select, and ps. Then there's another ground for square, triangle, circle, etc. In order to dual pcb, you'd need a universal ground for both pcbs to run into. I believe the wireless 360 pad also has a similar situation, but I haven't worked with one before.

Maybe if you have some sort of multiple switch to switch between ps3 and 360, it'd work. Not sure if Jest's link pertained to only Toodle's PCB switch, or if it can be applied to other multiple pcbs, but I'd say that was the general direction.
 
[quote name='option.iv']I do not believe so. Well, not right now. The ps3 sixaxis/ds3 pcbs have different grounds as opposed to a universal ground. i.e. there's a ground for start, select, and ps. Then there's another ground for square, triangle, circle, etc. In order to dual pcb, you'd need a universal ground for both pcbs to run into. I believe the wireless 360 pad also has a similar situation, but I haven't worked with one before.

Maybe if you have some sort of multiple switch to switch between ps3 and 360, it'd work. Not sure if Jest's link pertained to only Toodle's PCB switch, or if it can be applied to other multiple pcbs, but I'd say that was the general direction.[/QUOTE]

You can make a dual PCB setup most you just need PCB's with common grounds, just use the Cthulhu board and i believe the mad catz 360 pcb is what people at srk were doing, then using a DPDT toggle switch to switch the ground back and forth to activate that pcb.
 
[quote name='Layd Dly']You can make a dual PCB setup most you just need PCB's with common grounds, just use the Cthulhu board and i believe the mad catz 360 pcb is what people at srk were doing, then using a DPDT toggle switch to switch the ground back and forth to activate that pcb.[/quote]
He was asking about a dual setup with a wireless ps3 sixaxis and a wireless 360. The sixaxis and DS3 I know for sure don't have universal common grounds, so you can't just tie them together. Only way that I see working is some sort of switch between the sixaxis and wireless 360 pad.
 
[quote name='twanky']can someone throw this art work on this template for me please.




on the hori ex2 template that can be found here: http://www.donovanmyers.com/arcade/hori-shape.pdf

i was going to put the artwork into the buttons so if just the outline of the buttons and joystick was on the artwork that would be awesome, thanks to whoever can do this![/quote]

KENHRAP-2.jpg


i can email u the full PSD and JPEG
 
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[quote name='Layd Dly']Its called a Carriage Bolt.[/QUOTE]

I should have known that but was drawing a blank on it, been a while since I worked at Home Depot.

Looks nice there, but that's a different stick then the one he requested it for. :)
 
darn.. LOL

does anyone know how to get images to look like this in PS?
3342044353_03b4a5227f.jpg


i only know of threshold..
 
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[quote name='Furashu']darn.. LOL

does anyone know how to get images to look like this in PS?
3342044353_03b4a5227f.jpg


i only know of threshold..[/QUOTE]
I believe you gotta set it to grayscale or desaturate. Then play with the levels, also the brightness and contrast.
 
cool thanks guys!

i think im gonna switch to this art work. the stopping head on the MGS2 art i originally selected was annoying me starting at it.
MVC2HRAP3.jpg
hmmmmmmmm

anyone know how to remedy the top left of snakes head?
MGS2template-1.jpg

tried to fix it but it looks funky for some reason!!!
 
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[quote name='option.iv']I believe you gotta set it to grayscale or desaturate. Then play with the levels, also the brightness and contrast.[/quote]


If you send the art to me, I can help. PM me for details.
 
edit the MGS2 one is all pixelated even on a normal sheet of paper...

capcom one it is :D
 
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[quote name='Furashu']no thanks nil i think ill just go with the capcom art.

edit solved the mystery of snakes head
MGS2template-3.jpg

[/quote]

That is awesome—especially the quote at the top.
 
[quote name='Razzuel']That is awesome—especially the quote at the top.[/quote]
cant use it cause the image becomes pixelated and its fugly to look at.. :hot: :bomb:
 
Hey, anyone familiar with the HotRod Stick? My CAG friend told me it actually came out before the X-Arcade. I was wondering what parts it used and the quality of it out of shear curiosity since I've never heard of it.

http://www.hanaho.com/Products/HotRodJoystick.php

Edit: I think it uses actual Happ parts...
Edit2: Actually, got my answers. Nevermind!
 
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Haven't done it before... just going off what I remember from posts... I think its like $7. You probably want to buy 2 or 3 copies incase you screw up the cut job on one.
 
[quote name='Furashu']cant use it cause the image becomes pixelated and its fugly to look at.. :hot: :bomb:[/quote]

You cannot use what? Is the image too small or are you saving it as a image file that uses compression?

There are techniques in Photoshop to increase the size of a picture without reducing the quality, albeit I don't remember how to do it. However, I am sure there are some good tutorials out there. If that is not the case then you should save the image as a PNG file, which uses lossless data compression.

I mean it is a shame if you cannot use that art; something like that shouldn't go to waste.
 
the image itself was pretty small to begin with i took it from deviant art.

i added the quote on top and stretched the image and raised the MGS words.

its alright, if anyone wants it i can send it to u via email or aim.
 
Ok, I'm already brainstorming on art for my next schtick. This is what I came up with so far. Any suggestions would be awesome. It actually qualifies as "hentai" so I had to censor part of it.



I guess it's going to be a partner to my just finished work, hence Melty Blood/Tsukihime theme.
 
[quote name='Furashu']anyone know the cost of printing out the 11 by 17 image for an HRAP 3+ the lamilabel? wanna know how much monies to brings[/QUOTE]

For two prints it was 3.56 and for two lamilabels it was 3.98 before tax so I'd assume 3.56 + 3.98 = 7.54 / 2 = 3.77. I've heard people say they've payed as much as $7 total for one print so might want to bring a couple dollars extra just in case. Personally I like getting a second copy made when I'm working on something like this so I can fuck the first one up and got a backup.

[quote name='Razzuel']You cannot use what? Is the image too small or are you saving it as a image file that uses compression?

There are techniques in Photoshop to increase the size of a picture without reducing the quality, albeit I don't remember how to do it. However, I am sure there are some good tutorials out there. If that is not the case then you should save the image as a PNG file, which uses lossless data compression.

I mean it is a shame if you cannot use that art; something like that shouldn't go to waste.[/QUOTE]

Photoshop is powerful but it's not magic, there's still limits to what you can do and it's going to be all about what you input. Like anything garbage in, garbage out. Saving it loseless is good when you want to work with it down the road but won't do anything to help an already compressed low res image.
 
[quote name='Furashu']darn.. LOL

does anyone know how to get images to look like this in PS?
3342044353_03b4a5227f.jpg


i only know of threshold..[/QUOTE]
Make the image grayscale then use the "Sketch" filter and use the "Stamp" option. Adjust Light/Dark and Smooth values as needed.
 
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Just placed my first order to Akihabara.jp to upgrade my brand new HRAP 3 and my old EX2, shipped it EMS even though it was a bit pricey, overall it was only a few more dollars than LL and should have it about 2 weeks sooner i hope. Still not sure what im doing for art yet, the HRAP 3 my stay the way it is fo rnow as its clean, but the EX2 will def. get some art.

HRAP 3: LB-35-M "MeshBall" - Limited! Blue, OBSF-30 Blue x8, OBSF-24 Green x2, GT-Y Octagonal Gate x1
EX2: LB-35 Green , OBSF-30 Green x1, OBSF-30 Red x1, OBSF-30 Yellow x1, OBSF-30 Dark Blue x1, OBSF-30 Dark Hai x2, GT-Y Octagonal Gate x1
 
Just out of curiosity, does Lizardlick let you know when your order ships? I couldn't find any way to check my order status on their site. I ordered my Sanwa buttons and Blue Bubble top last week.
 
Okay guys, here's a question.

Let's say I've never used a stick before except US arcade sticks from time to time when I was younger.

Let's say also that, I'm pretty good at fighters. (I've beaten a few 2500BP Zangief/Honda users in SF4, gotten some hate mail from them) I'm not like, calculate range/recovery compete in tournaments good, but I'm the guy that has the controller for about 3-4 rounds at a friend's house when we play SF before I lose.

Now let's say I want to get a stick, but I don't play fighters as much as everyone else does. I'm a charge user (Boxer).

If I get the US parts from Lizard Lick, like HAPP Competition stick and buttons, to go cheap, would it really be a "bad" experience compared to something like the LS-40 that everyone gets?

I want to build a stick, but I don't want to invest more than $80 into it.

I know I could get the Hori Fighting Stick EX2, but I don't want something that hard to mod and the SE Fighting Sticks are going for as much as what the tournament sticks cost.

I'm looking to spend maybe $30-35 in the stick/buttons and another $20 on the PCB (360 joystick) and getting a plastic enclosure from Home Depot with my friend's discount.
 
For realz though.. I have an EX2 and I love it. I couldn't get the hang of the TE when I was using it but maybe that's just me. I, too, hadn't used a stick in like 15 years before I got my EX2.
 
[quote name='NamelessMC']Okay guys, here's a question.

Let's say I've never used a stick before except US arcade sticks from time to time when I was younger.

Let's say also that, I'm pretty good at fighters. (I've beaten a few 2500BP Zangief/Honda users in SF4, gotten some hate mail from them) I'm not like, calculate range/recovery compete in tournaments good, but I'm the guy that has the controller for about 3-4 rounds at a friend's house when we play SF before I lose.

Now let's say I want to get a stick, but I don't play fighters as much as everyone else does. I'm a charge user (Boxer).

If I get the US parts from Lizard Lick, like HAPP Competition stick and buttons, to go cheap, would it really be a "bad" experience compared to something like the LS-40 that everyone gets?

I want to build a stick, but I don't want to invest more than $80 into it.

I know I could get the Hori Fighting Stick EX2, but I don't want something that hard to mod and the SE Fighting Sticks are going for as much as what the tournament sticks cost.

I'm looking to spend maybe $30-35 in the stick/buttons and another $20 on the PCB (360 joystick) and getting a plastic enclosure from Home Depot with my friend's discount.[/quote]

If you can get Happ parts in there, by all means, go for it. It will probably be pretty frustrating trying to make your own case though, but it seems like you have everything worked out.

I might suggest a perfect 360, as they're quite nice (albeit a bit on the expensive side for an american stick), otherwise grab the IL comp since its basically the same as the Happ but with a more consistent manufacturing quality (iL used to make happ stuff).

Something along those lines.
 
[quote name='PhrostByte']For realz though.. I have an EX2 and I love it. I couldn't get the hang of the TE when I was using it but maybe that's just me. I, too, hadn't used a stick in like 15 years before I got my EX2.[/QUOTE]

The ex2 is a decent little stick, isnt that hard to mod either, just a little soldering and de-soldering. Its a decent little stick though.
 
[quote name='twanky']can someone throw this art work on this template for me please.

ken.jpg


on the hori ex2 template that can be found here: http://www.donovanmyers.com/arcade/hori-shape.pdf

i was going to put the artwork into the buttons so if just the outline of the buttons and joystick was on the artwork that would be awesome, thanks to whoever can do this![/quote]

No takers on this? I really wanna get this done, its the only thing holding me back before i start modding the stick. Also can we throw in the SFIV logo on the bottom left corner.
 
[quote name='twanky']No takers on this? I really wanna get this done, its the only thing holding me back before i start modding the stick. Also can we throw in the SFIV logo on the bottom left corner.[/QUOTE]


Click Image for Full-Size

Also plan on using this for my EX2, unless i whip something nicer up in the meantime. (art used from devianart but slapped together in PS)
cammy-sfiv_002.jpg
 
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[quote name='amusedtoe']Photoshop is powerful but it's not magic, there's still limits to what you can do and it's going to be all about what you input. Like anything garbage in, garbage out. Saving it loseless is good when you want to work with it down the road but won't do anything to help an already compressed low res image.[/QUOTE]

There is a plugin for PS called Genuine Fractals. It works freakin wonders for enlarging images with no noticeable quality loss.
 
[quote name='Layd Dly']
Also plan on using this for my EX2, unless i whip something nicer up in the meantime. (art used from devianart but slapped together in PS)
cammy-sfiv_002.jpg
[/QUOTE]

You should really change that layout to:

X Y LT
A B RT
 
[quote name='NamelessMC']Okay guys, here's a question.

Let's say I've never used a stick before except US arcade sticks from time to time when I was younger.

Let's say also that, I'm pretty good at fighters. (I've beaten a few 2500BP Zangief/Honda users in SF4, gotten some hate mail from them) I'm not like, calculate range/recovery compete in tournaments good, but I'm the guy that has the controller for about 3-4 rounds at a friend's house when we play SF before I lose.

Now let's say I want to get a stick, but I don't play fighters as much as everyone else does. I'm a charge user (Boxer).

If I get the US parts from Lizard Lick, like HAPP Competition stick and buttons, to go cheap, would it really be a "bad" experience compared to something like the LS-40 that everyone gets?

I want to build a stick, but I don't want to invest more than $80 into it.

I know I could get the Hori Fighting Stick EX2, but I don't want something that hard to mod and the SE Fighting Sticks are going for as much as what the tournament sticks cost.

I'm looking to spend maybe $30-35 in the stick/buttons and another $20 on the PCB (360 joystick) and getting a plastic enclosure from Home Depot with my friend's discount.[/quote]

Sanwa/Seimitsu isn't for everyone...I myself enjoy American sticks...i have mine hooked up to my old SFII Hyper Fighting cabinet...

355711492.jpg


$80 360 Happs is pretty doable if you have the tools/skills to make one...$25 for happ parts + $10 Madcatz retro stick...The rest you can use on wood, plexi, paint, rubber feet, etc...
 
In general, for a 6-button Xbox stick, do you think it's preferable to keep the triggers or the bumpers?

I opted for bumpers on mine, since it was simpler to work with on a dual mod. Only missing functionality I've come across so far is that I can't change the little face icon in a SFIV online lobby, lol.
 
[quote name='eastx']You should really change that layout to:

X Y LT
A B RT[/QUOTE]

Im going to try to do that, but im not sure the PCB will let it, since the left most buttons solder onto the main pcb for the stick where the other 4 buttons have there own board which i can remove all together and put them how i want to
 
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