HD Link (HDMI) for OG Xbox is up at Amazon

I've got one of these coming in the mail. Already had a component cable but one of the connectors is coming apart... I needed a replacement, and this sounds like it'll do the trick. My system's a 1.6 model so I'm not anticipating any problems with waviness.

 
I just got the V2 model in today - the one with detachable HDMI cable. I had crazy bad wavy green interference with the first model and returned it. the V2's interference is much more subdued and playable enough for me. Dissappointed that my console isn't completely compatible - I need to check my revision version. But I'm gonna keep any eye out for a more compatible model on the used market.

 
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I have had this cable for months and it works on my launch model great. I actually still benefitted from this thread because I had no idea about the clock capacitor issue. I took the capacitor out even though it had yet to leak ( I actually didn't rehook up my OG Xbox until this hdmi cable originally came out, so the system sat in the closet for years). So now, my launch console should be good and reliable.
I had never heard of that either. I bought a few Xbox's over the years. My last Xbox, and the one I currently use(I have a new sealed Halo Xbox as well) was purchased when I was working retail around 2005-06. It was manufactured in 2005. It was the Forza bundle. Pretty sure that was the last Xbox bundle I ever saw. I assume I'm safe from that issue.

My Xbox also has a different disc drive that isn't a Thomson, Phillips or Samsung.

 
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I had never heard of that either. I bought a few Xbox's over the years. My last Xbox, and the one I currently use(I have a new sealed Halo Xbox as well) was purchased when I was working retail around 2005-06. It was manufactured in 2005. It was the Forza bundle. Pretty sure that was the last Xbox bundle I ever saw. I assume I'm safe from that issue.

My Xbox also has a different disc drive that isn't a Thomson, Phillips or Samsung.
Take a minute and look at the silver sticker underneath the bottom of the system. The manufacture date will tell you what model you have. If you don't have a 1.6 model, I'd remove it. If you have a 1.6, don't remove it. That's pretty much it.

Anyone receive the cable and then go back and try any of their old games? Or try any that they hadn't played? Xbox One backwards compatibility is fine, but it only works on a small group of titles and forces you to install the game even when using the disc. I miss the days of playing a game off the disc. Never thought I'd say that.
 
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My Xbox has a dead disc drive so I just run everything off the hard drive at this point
There seems to be a consensus among the regulars on the original Xbox thread on Reddit that suggest that modding and playing from the hard drive is the best way to go at this point. I haven't done it on either of my systems because I don't want to lose the original dashboard interface. I have a lot of memories attached to seeing that dull green screen and hearing those weird echoes in the background. My 1.2 is extremely finicky and only opens when it wants to. I have to give it a good slap to get the tray to open.

#stopretrogamingsystemabusenow
 
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I had to replace my hard drive also last month, was kind of a pain to do with no working DVD drive, only got through it thanks to CHIMP having an ide hot swap mode
 
Thanks for telling me about the new version folks. Returned the one I just bought from amazon and ordered the new one with free same day delivery.
 
Thanks for telling me about the new version folks. Returned the one I just bought from amazon and ordered the new one with free same day delivery.
Did you have interference problems previously? Would be curious to know if the new one cleans that up or not, Pound says they didn't internally change anything other than making the hdmi port connect outside the box

 
I've been doing a little research to see how much I can put the Pound cable through its paces. According to Wikipedia, there are only 6 original Xbox NTSC games that are able to output in 1080i:

Atari Anthology
Dragon's Lair 3D
Enter the Matrix
MX Unleashed
MX vs ATV Unleashed
Syberia

The funny part is that you can barely tell that the first of these titles is in 1080i because of the simplistic nature of the graphics in the arcade and Atari 2600 games that are included in the compilation.
 
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Just wanted to post that I found another original Xbox this afternoon for $8 during lunch at a thrift store down the road from my job. Its manufacture date is 3/31/05 which means that it is a 1.6b - one of the last batch ever made. The clock capacitor doesn't need to be removed, but I will probably crack it open tomorrow. No telling what's inside. Buying old Xboxes is like buying a box of Crackerjacks. It could be modded already...or have an army of dead bugs inside. But at least, I can test it properly with the Pound cable.
 
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Just wanted to post that I found another original Xbox this afternoon for $8 during lunch at a thrift store down the road from my job. Its manufacture date is 3/31/05 which means that it is a 1.6b - one of the last batch ever made. The clock capacitor doesn't need to be removed, but I will probably crack it open tomorrow. No telling what's inside. Buying old Xboxes is like buying a box of Crackerjacks. It could be modded already...or have an army of dead bugs inside. But at least, I can test it properly with the Pound cable.
lmk how the video output is, thanks

 
lmk how the video output is, thanks
Will do. The heat index is 104 degrees today, so I'm leaving it in my trunk overnight. I'm fairly certain that would kill anything that might be inside. I've read some horror stories about stuff that people have found inside old systems. But it looked extremely clean and barely used from what I can tell. Bought it as-is so it's a gamble.
 
My cable arrived yesterday. It works well enough... probably no better than my old Monster component cable, but at least it doesn't feel like a garden hose.
 
I wonder if it works for 4K TVs like the one I have. Though I don't want 4k....just 1080p at best
This is just “component over hdmi”, not a convert or. 480 games are still 480, 720 are 720, etc. your 4K tv will treat it like any other signal like that.
 
my cable works fine on my Samsung 4k, but I have heard of some sets having problems where it can't properly retain the picture connection

 
I wonder if it works for 4K TVs like the one I have. Though I don't want 4k....just 1080p at best
It'll work. It just won't upscale the image to 4K resolution on a 4K TV, but your old games will be playable on your modern TV. That's the main reason that people are buying the Pound cable. And it will only allow you to run games in 1080 if they were originally designed to run in 1080. Check my post of the games that will run in 1080 several posts back in this thread. Wikipedia says there are only 6 NTSC region games that will run in 1080. Most of the original Xbox games only run in 480, some in 720, but not many.

I've been testing games that only run in 480 to figure out which ones still hold up. Outrun 2006: Coast to Coast (aka the beefed-up version of Outrun 2) wasn't bad due to the speed at which the game ran. SSX 3 looked decent too. Taito Legends was fine, but that compilation included old school games with simple graphics. Arctic Thunder was pretty blocky looking, but I think that's because it was a launch title. Unreal Championship looked horrible, but it played fine in a deathmatch. Also an earlier title. Later releases will probably look better than earlier releases in most cases. I need to find Conker Reloaded in my collection and see what it looks like. That was a good looking game back in the day.
 
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I've been testing games that only run in 480 to figure out which ones still hold up. Outrun 2006: Coast to Coast (aka the beefed-up version of Outrun 2) wasn't bad due to the speed at which the game ran. SSX 3 looked decent too. Taito Legends was fine, but that compilation included old school games with simple graphics. Arctic Thunder was pretty blocky looking, but I think that's because it was a launch title. Unreal Championship looked horrible, but it played fine in a deathmatch. Also an earlier title. Later releases will probably look better than earlier releases in most cases. I need to find Conker Reloaded in my collection and see what it looks like. That was a good looking game back in the day.
How about Kakuto Chojin? Are the Quran mantras particularly offensive in HD?

 
How about Kakuto Chojin? Are the Quran mantras particularly offensive in HD?
I actually have a complete copy of that game somewhere. I know you're kidding, but I would love to look at the case and see what resolution it outputs since the game was left off Wikipedia's NTSC game list. Terrible game though.
 
How about Kakuto Chojin? Are the Quran mantras particularly offensive in HD?
Wow, deep cut. I have that game, and recall that GameStop was prohibited from selling or accepting it from customers.

It's a pretty game, but the utter definition of a sweet nothing.

 
It'll work. It just won't upscale the image to 4K resolution on a 4K TV, but your old games will be playable on your modern TV. That's the main reason that people are buying the Pound cable. And it will only allow you to run games in 1080 if they were originally designed to run in 1080. Check my post of the games that will run in 1080 several posts back in this thread. Wikipedia says there are only 6 NTSC region games that will run in 1080. Most of the original Xbox games only run in 480, some in 720, but not many.

I've been testing games that only run in 480 to figure out which ones still hold up. Outrun 2006: Coast to Coast (aka the beefed-up version of Outrun 2) wasn't bad due to the speed at which the game ran. SSX 3 looked decent too. Taito Legends was fine, but that compilation included old school games with simple graphics. Arctic Thunder was pretty blocky looking, but I think that's because it was a launch title. Unreal Championship looked horrible, but it played fine in a deathmatch. Also an earlier title. Later releases will probably look better than earlier releases in most cases. I need to find Conker Reloaded in my collection and see what it looks like. That was a good looking game back in the day.
That's all I really needed to know as 1080p is usually the top picture quality I go for otherwise

 
I actually have a complete copy of that game somewhere. I know you're kidding, but I would love to look at the case and see what resolution it outputs since the game was left off Wikipedia's NTSC game list. Terrible game though.
I fired it up this morning, runs at 480, though I'm not 100% on whether it's running at 480i or 480p natively, looks decent enough though

 
lmk how the video output is, thanks
After letting my "new" 1.6b cook in my hot car for a few days to kill any lower life forms that might have been alive inside it, I plugged it in tonight after I got home from work to try it out. It looked really good with the Pound HDMI cable with no graphical issues whatsoever. The dashboard looked fine when it booted up. There was a Dance Dance Revolution Ultramix 2 disc inside the system when I bought it, and it looked OK on the title screen. So I took it out and put in a copy of Burnout Revenge fresh from the nondescript Blockbuster Video case that it was in. It looked really great for an Xbox game although playing the 360 version of Burnout Revenge on Xbox One has spoiled me. So, no problems with the Pound cable on a 1.6b.

Among original Xbox enthusiasts, the 1.6 model is the least popular model mainly because it is the most difficult to mod and it natively has problems outputting several popular titles including Fable, Jet Set Radio Future, Panzer Dragoon Orta, and Wreckless in 480. It has been reported that these titles will not even play in some 1.6 systems. But, as the last model off the production line, it might be the most efficient. Just hated by most - reminds me of the superslim PS3 in that regard.

Anyway, I can't bring myself to crack it open although that was my plan when I bought it. I just like any system in my home to be bug-free. It's not cosmetically dirty or dusty, so I doubt any insects were living in it. That was my main concern. I just think that opening it now would be like ripping open the Mona Lisa to see if anything was behind it. So I won't. It'll be a good backup system though. The previous owner on had 4 games saved on it, no custom soundtracks. So it was almost new.

Thanks for reading to anyone who made it to the end of this post.
 
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I read it. I'll take that cookie now. :D

But seriously, it's not too tough to take apart a classic Xbox. The big problem is that they're heavy and bulky, but like any other tech product, they can be disassembled if you know what you're doing. That's where iFixit comes in... look at this guide and it'll take you through the steps of disassembly.

https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Xbox+Teardown/1324

You'll need to flip it over, remove the rubber feet on the bottom of the unit, and take out the screws hiding beneath them. I think there's also a screw hiding under a sticker. After all the screws are taken out you should be able to flip it back over and pull off the top of the case. You'll have to take out the hard drive, DVD-ROM drive, etc. to reach the motherboard, but that's only if you want a really thorough cleaning.

Also, 1.6 model Xboxes don't really need to be hard-modded. A soft mod is generally good enough... just make sure you've got all the necessary parts before you begin. If you make a mistake you're going to want to have a copy of Halo 2 or some other recent Xbox title handy to reinstall the dashboard... otherwise things can get really unpleasant.

 
I read it. I'll take that cookie now. :D

But seriously, it's not too tough to take apart a classic Xbox. The big problem is that they're heavy and bulky, but like any other tech product, they can be disassembled if you know what you're doing. That's where iFixit comes in... look at this guide and it'll take you through the steps of disassembly.

https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Xbox+Teardown/1324

You'll need to flip it over, remove the rubber feet on the bottom of the unit, and take out the screws hiding beneath them. I think there's also a screw hiding under a sticker. After all the screws are taken out you should be able to flip it back over and pull off the top of the case. You'll have to take out the hard drive, DVD-ROM drive, etc. to reach the motherboard, but that's only if you want a really thorough cleaning.

Also, 1.6 model Xboxes don't really need to be hard-modded. A soft mod is generally good enough... just make sure you've got all the necessary parts before you begin. If you make a mistake you're going to want to have a copy of Halo 2 or some other recent Xbox title handy to reinstall the dashboard... otherwise things can get really unpleasant.
I did a tear down on my 1.2 to remove the clock capacitor. It was easy enough. I didn't even need to completely remove the DVD drive to do it. I never removed the hard drive. Since there was no capacitor leak, I cleaned up the dust inside with cotton swabs. Pretty easy. My 1.6's case has never been opened just like the new 1.6b.

Sounds crazy, but I've never considered the possibility of modding any of my Xboxes. I don't get why there is such a great appeal for doing it except maybe to maintain the system's life which makes sense. But I can't see why playing the Xbox with a custom start up screen is so appealing to people who owned the system when it was originally released. And without getting myself in any trouble, I'll just say there are several more ways to play retro games with very little effort than there were at the beginning of the 2000s.

When I see that drab green screen, set that clock for the hundredth time, and hear those weird gurgling noises before the game boots up, it takes me back to a simpler time when I had less to worry about and more time for fun. I think that's why I bought the Pound cable. I don't want to lose the chance to relive that feeling over and over just because I'm older and can afford a better TV. Here I am getting philosophical about a machine.
 
I did a tear down on my 1.2 to remove the clock capacitor. It was easy enough. I didn't even need to completely remove the DVD drive to do it. I never removed the hard drive. Since there was no capacitor leak, I cleaned up the dust inside with cotton swabs. Pretty easy. My 1.6's case has never been opened just like the new 1.6b.

Sounds crazy, but I've never considered the possibility of modding any of my Xboxes. I don't get why there is such a great appeal for doing it except maybe to maintain the system's life which makes sense. But I can't see why playing the Xbox with a custom start up screen is so appealing to people who owned the system when it was originally released. And without getting myself in any trouble, I'll just say there are several more ways to play retro games with very little effort than there were at the beginning of the 2000s.

When I see that drab green screen, set that clock for the hundredth time, and hear those weird gurgling noises before the game boots up, it takes me back to a simpler time when I had less to worry about and more time for fun. I think that's why I bought the Pound cable. I don't want to lose the chance to relive that feeling over and over just because I'm older and can afford a better TV. Here I am getting philosophical about a machine.
I modded for the convenience of not having to pull discs out and just running all games off a hard drive (plus my dvd drive is dead and a modded bios can skip the drive check)

 
The thing about the Xbox is that while the hardware is dated, the emulators are magnificently presented, with the appearance of a stylish arcade jukebox. Here, check this out:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2Jn6zujFY4

Not every emulator looks this good, but many are extremely polished. I've never seen an emulation box with a more dazzling presentation, although a Raspberry Pi with Recalbox comes closer than most.

Also, for what it's worth, I do get that bubbling Xbox intro when I boot the system. It just jumps into XBMC/Kodi immediately afterward.

 
Pound also makes these HDMI cables for Dreamcast too. They pop up on Amazon every now and then for $29.99 each. I just ordered the last one on Amazon, but I will post my impressions after it arrives in 5 to 8 days.
 
Pound also makes these HDMI cables for Dreamcast too. They pop up on Amazon every now and then for $29.99 each. I just ordered the last one on Amazon, but I will post my impressions after it arrives in 5 to 8 days.
Appreciate the heads-up! Looked on Amazon and ordered one. They still have them as of this post. Now just need to wait until the Xbox cable restock. Stupid me dragged my feet and missed out the last go.

 
I ordered one of these cables but ended up returning it due to having the interference issue. Will be waiting to see if they release a revision that fixes that issue.

 
I ordered one of these cables but ended up returning it due to having the interference issue. Will be waiting to see if they release a revision that fixes that issue.
Can you check your Xbox revision, it really sounds like it's an issue in the systems but nobody has collected enough data
 
Can you check your Xbox revision, it really sounds like it's an issue in the systems but nobody has collected enough data
I have a 1.5. It's a Special Edition Halo translucent green one. Soft-modded, if that matters.

 
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Houston, we have a problem with the Dreamcast Pound cable that arrived yesterday. If a product is supposed to work with the Dreamcast, it should work with all models of the Dreamcast. I tried the cable on a Dreamcast that was manufactured in October 1999, and it wouldn't output video at all. Then, I tried it on a Dreamcast that was manufactured in August 1999, and the picture was great. No interference whatsoever. In fact, I'd say it looked better than the picture put out by the Xbox cable since the Dreamcast cable is supposed to put out video at 640 X 480. Most Xbox games can only do 480. Anyway, I tried Sports Jam and Power Stone 2, and both games looked great. Power Stone 2 is my personal benchmark of quality since I've played it on PSP, Vita, PlayStation TV, and PPSSPP. It wasn't as great as all those but it was still good. So now I'm wondering if I should return the cable to Amazon or keep it. I have five Dreamcasts, so if it works on two or more, I'm OK. What do you guys think? Keep or return?

Edit: I tried a few more games - Dead or Alive 2, Sega Bass Fishing, and both were great looking on the August 1999 Dreamcast. I'm so torn.

Second edit: Reviews on Amazon suggest that the reason that the cables work on some Dreamcast systems and not on others is that if your Dreamcast doesn't power the HDMI cable through the AV port, it won't work on that system. If that's the case, it's the Dreamcast that isn't cooperating, not the cable. I might try it on my other Dreamcasts to see if if will work on those...if I can find them. They're around here somewhere.
 
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You guys really need to go follow them on Facebook they regularly post updates, dc cable is being redesigned a bit
 
So with all these HDMI cables you guys are running, what HDMI hub/switcher do you recommend?

 
I need to get more inputs tbh, atm I'm just using a cheap 3 input > 1 output auto switcher I got on dealextreme that only does upto 1080, and I have a 4 input > 1 output that can do 4k/60 that I run other things that were more finnicky through

 
At my house, I'm the HDMI switcher. Standing up is soooo inconvenient.

#firstworldproblems
Good for you for getting that exercise, you old fatty. Just make sure you bring some Bengay for the trip. :p

I have a wall-mounted 4K TV in my game room with hard-to-reach HDMI ports, and all five are used already. Only one is 4k@60 and 4:4:4 chroma, so it'd be great to get a reliable hub that I could connect my new systems to. Plus, I'm using a multi-adapter plugged into a 5-port s-video switcher for Xbox/PS2/GC/DC on my old TV, so upgrading that would be great.

 
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