The Ultimate 'Build-A-PC' Thread. Complete With Pricings & Recommendations (06/06/10)

I tried

Part list permalink / Part price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-2120 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor ($115.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock P67 PRO3 (B3) ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($104.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Patriot Sector 5 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($19.99 @ Microcenter)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 6850 1GB Video Card ($134.99 @ Microcenter)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Antec 520W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($60.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($18.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $505.92
(Prices include shipping and discounts when available.)
(Generated 2012-02-13 21:25 EST-0500)
 
Ok i'll admit, I'm out of the loop when it comes to components now of days, last full build I did was back in the old Socket A (AMD) days.

I've gotten most of the components I need now except the GPU. Currently I'm running the on-board GPU with this MOBO http://amzn.com/B003XRG1DM

I'm not looking for anything hefty, something in the sub $200 range I would say. I've been playing most new releases on xbox and ps3 (skyrim, halo(s), Gears, etc), but I would love to beef my PC up and get back into PC gaming, especially for the backlog of Steam titles.
 
The Radeon 6850 has been as low as $135 (with $15 rebate) on Newegg and Amazon recently and rather often. Very good graphics card when it comes to price and performance.
 
I was wondering if someone could potentially help me setup a buy list for a computer? I have a 2002 Dell desktop with a 20gb hard drive and 382mb ram (upgraded from 124mb yeeaaars ago) and I simply can't take it anymore, I live on my PS3's web browser simply cause browsers and web pages have just gotten too advance for this clunker to handle them smoothly.

Here's the thing, I'm not looking for a gaming PC. While it would be nice to have the option, I'm mostly a console gamer and I'm not willing to pay the premium price to play PC games... that I probably won't even be playing. Here's what I'm looking for a computer to do for me:

-Play HD flash videos from various media sites as well as live streams.
-Allow me to actually stream in close to or even HD quality on sites like Twitch.tv with a capture device.
-Run resource heavy applications such as Photoshop.

500gb HDD and 6GB RAM I'd imagine would be fine, but I'm open to opinions on that. So yeah, if someone could help me put together a build lists of parts from websites and the such then I'd greatly appreciate it, cause I honestly dunno crap.
 
[quote name='j-cart']Good luck on your new mobo. I jealous of your PC, I'm open for trades :D[/QUOTE]

Got my new motherboard and haven't had any problems with it yet, everything seems to be fine so far. I think I've noticed the most improvements compared to my old computer with the SSD/HDD and the case lol. The SSD and Hitachi are practically silent compared to my old harddrive + much faster than it, and the case was a lot easier to work with than my Cooler Master 690.
 
[quote name='cgarb84']Yeah it's possible their newer psu's are crap I was just speaking from experience with mine. No matter where you buy though modular is the way to go....so great for cable management.[/QUOTE]
ultra was great back in 2004/06, now they are completely dated and haven't changed anything since 2009. They aren't even 80+ certified and their 12v rails have HUGE deviations, specially on load.

For PSU's now days, Corsair, Antec, OCZ/PC Power & Cooling, Silverstone, and Seasonic are the top brands. OCZ is def a big underdog, but its the same engineers and tech used in PC Power & Cooling since OCZ bought them out a few years ago. Great value and I've built about 20 PC's with them, no complaint yet. My triple 570 rig runs smooth like butter on an 850w, but I have no overclocking head room. XFX and Thermaltake run some decent budget psu's, but I wouldn't spend the same or more for similar spec'ed wattage over the top tier names.

And honestly, any 600w PSU will run a modern 100-130w cpu and two high end budget cards like a 5870, 6950 or a 570 with no issues. Just have to make sure your 12v has enough amp's to support it. Some older 500-600w antec's would only sport 350w on the 12v rails.

The Radeon 6850 has been as low as $135 (with $15 rebate) on Newegg and Amazon recently and rather often. Very good graphics card when it comes to price and performance.
I've seen the 6850 as low as $120 with a game or two, maybe not recently, but they float around the $130 mark all the time on newegg, NCIX and microcenter. They are pretty decent budget minded cards, but for a few bucks more, the 6870 is 10% faster, and you can find those around the $140-150; as low as $135 with a game or two as well. Just gotta keep an eye on fatwallet and slickdeals before those threads hit front page most of the time.

I'm not looking for anything hefty, something in the sub $200 range I would say. I've been playing most new releases on xbox and ps3 (skyrim, halo(s), Gears, etc), but I would love to beef my PC up and get back into PC gaming, especially for the backlog of Steam titles.
@Waffmula: In the 200 price range you can snag up a cheap 560 ti if it goes on sale; cheapest I've seen was $190 but that didn't last. You can look at vanilla 560's that are OC that will yield the same performance, but honestly, for $200, you can snag a decent 6950 1GB that hits a very good price/performance value. The downside is that you'll only have 1GB vram buffer, but its more than enough for skyrim. Most games will play fine at 1080p on high or ultra; its a very fast card.

@MillerTime2523: Here's what I listed. I'd stay stick with the i3 2100 series cpu's, they are better suited for gaming than the older X4's at stock speed. Only the X4 975 BE and up starts to beat the i3's.


@Buuhan1: What is your budget? I'm assuming you need an OS and basically not recycling any old parts (since you are basically running what a P4?).
 
I doubt there's anything I can reuse. Sadly I will have to buy Windows. As for my budget... let's just say as cheap as possible without making something that'll die within no time.
 
Give me a price range that you would feel comfortable in shelling out. A low and a high. If you can afford it, $800 will net you one of the best bang per buck in featuring a solid PC with great gaming potential. You can always go cheaper like the list above with MillerTime's as a base, or even a hair cheaper on pentium G series or AMD x4's. Once you hit $500 or less, that $100 OS will eat a lot out of your budget and you'll start to sacrifice a lot just get the barebones of a PC.
 
I believe that $30 discount price is no longer possible. It looks like it's $65 for the "upgrade" version, which was the version on sale for $30.
 
yeah, the student sale of win7 pro upgrade has ended a long time ago. It only lasted for a month or two at that price, was a killer deal. 65 isn't bad either since you can do a clean install with one, without having a previous OS. For most people, Home premium is more than enough.
 
I recently bought a 2TB HDD and installed it in my build so I can put my music, movie, misc collection. Is there a way to search for those items in my 2TB from the start menu? Right now, typing in a name of the song does not yield any results.
 
Building a high-end gaming system (not necessarily an ultimate system). Looking for some feedback on this setup especially if anyone has any experience with specific parts. Also look for some advice on a second internal hard drive (non SSD) that really only needs to be 500GB at most as I have 2X 1TB external drives.

CPU + Motherboard Combo ($480 w/tax):
Intel i7 2600k
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0354587
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0378094

Video Card:
HIS IceQ Turbo Radeon HD 6970 2GB ($340 after rebate)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161382

Hard Drive 1:
Crucial M4 128GB SATA 3 SSD ($165)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148442

RAM:
Mushkin Enhanced Blackline 8GB (2x4) DDR3 SDRAM 2133 PC3 17000 ($90)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226245

Power Supply:
Antec EarthWatts EA750 750W (Pulled from my old comp)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371026

Operating System:
Windows 7 Ultimate

Thanks in advance!
 
@xTraPointLess: Besides gaming, what else do you want to do with this system? What is your budget? What else are you pulling from your old PC? Do you need an OS? Monitor? Keyboard? Mouse? Do you expect to SLI/xFire multiple cards? Do you have a microcenter near you?

As for your choices, if this rig is strictly for gaming, go with an i5 2500k. You will not miss a damn thing without HT. Its the same exact chip as the i7 2600k without HT. Most games can't utilize more than 2 or 4 threads anyhow; save the $100 and put it else where in your system.

With the above question, do you expect to throw in three video cards into your machine or need the 3rd x16 pcie slot for anything specific? Otherwise save your money and go with something more relative with your needs. The Asrock Ext3 Gen3 board hits the hearts of most budget gamers (don't fool yourself, you are pricing a mid range budget box, not a high end one). It offers a two card SLI/xFire solution, supports pcie 3.0 slots (provided you have 3.0 cpu/gpu combo too), everything else you really need for features/nothing you don't and its rock solid stable at 5Ghz overclocks with good components. The $130 price tag is nice too.

If you have a microcenter nearby, you need to check to see what $50 off combo deals you can get with the cpu/mobo; they always run something with good boards from MSi, Asus, Asrock and Gigabyte. They had a similar Asus P8 but with the P67 chipset for $100 after the combo deal that's a killer buy. Check the sales paper.

As for video cards, you got a lot of choices right now (soon, more to follow with 7800 series gpu's coming out next month). I wouldn't bother spending $340 for the 6970; the 6950 2gb is almost $100 cheaper and pulls nearly the same fps in most games (maybe 1-5 frames slower, but just as capable). Plus the 6950's are basically the same chip, provided you get a decent maker with an aftermarket cooler, you can OC them to 6970 speeds and basically run similar frames. Also earlier 6950 2gb's were unlockable to use all of the steam processors of the gpu to essentially make them 6970's for free... but they stopped that with later models with laser cutting the die's from the factory. Still, if you get one, you could try.

Other choices in the market is Nvidia's $200 GTX 560 ti, $260 560 ti 448 and the $330 570's. Right now, the only two games that hit above 1GB vram buffer issues is BF3 in ultra and Skyrim with HD rez packs. So don't be dismayed with "only" 1GB of vram.

As for SSD's, the M4 is a decent, quality pick, but honestly, there are better choices in the price range. The M4 uses sync NAND's which help with its ability to read/write compressed files like archival types of data (e.g. jpeg's, encoded music/movies, zip files), but the controller type limits its write ability compared to other sandforce based SSD's like that of OCZ vertex 3. It hits a fast read of 500+ but writes are down in the 200-300's in both compressed and uncompressed files.

For gaming, I'd look at Corsair Force Series GT, Kingston HyperX, OCZ Vertex 3, Mushkin Enhanced Chronos (normal and deluxe), Patriot Pyro/Wildfire or Samsung 830 series. OCZ also makes the Agility 3 that works pretty good for the price too; same goes with Corsair Force Series 3, but both uses Async NAND that will drop performance from 500+/500 read/write down to the 200's with uncompressable files. Honestly, it really doesn't matter at those speeds since you are talking about 1 or 2 second delays compared to other SSD's. They are all relatively faster than any mechanical drives. (besides Raid setups)

Anyhow, SSD's are still considered a luxury and won't help you game better. Get one if you want fast bootup speeds and speedy load times for apps, but still not a necessity. If you plan on playing online, you still have to wait till everyone else loads in for a match to begin anyhow...

As for the ram? Don't even bother spending $$$ for OC ram modules. You will rarely see any real world difference from a 1600 to the 2133. You are looking at maybe 1-3% performance increase in applications that can use it for double the price; gaming? maybe 1-2 extra frames, but it hits within the margin of error. Besides, when gaming, your vram speed/bandwidth is going to be much much more important than your system ram speed. Games today don't use more than 1-2GB; even with Skyrim's 4GB patch, it still doesn't use more than 2GB of system memory unless you edit the video config folder manually to up the graphics ability of the engine.

Stick with 1600 speeds, cas 9 or lower, 1.5v or lower for your sandy bridge chip. If you can afford it, stick with lower timings over raw MT data speeds. For gaming, its more about lower latency than raw speed/bandwidth. Get cas 7 or 6 if you can; although most tend to be in 2GB sticks-some cas 7's are in 4gb sticks. Samsung makes a decent 1600 1.35v cas 9 8gb set (2x4gb) that can be OC to 2133/2200 cas9/10 @ 1.5/1.6 and be rock solid stable. The down side it doesn't have a heat sink to cool them, but they really don't need them; most quality ram can run at 85C just fine.

As for the OS, unless you already have Windows 7 Ultimate, Home premium is all you need to game. Save the bucks for something else in your system... or spend it on games...

Also to point out, Ivy Bridge is just around the corner with kepler soon to follow. Like I said before, AMD's 7800 mid range chips are soon to be released next month and unlike nvidia, they are meeting their launch dates and having no production issues.

Answer my initial questions and I'll give you a build list.
 
So all I want is decent gaming around Med settings and to do photoshop. I saw 2 pc's that had decent gaming review. One had an 1 gb geforce gt630m and the other had an geforce gt 540m with 2gb ddr3 vram both paired with an intel i7. Question is which one would be the better card? Both pc's had 2.2 ghz with a 3.1 boast and other similar specs. Sorry for the noob question.
 
[quote name='Vap']So all I want is decent gaming around Med settings and to do photoshop. I saw 2 pc's that had decent gaming review. One had an 1 gb geforce gt630m and the other had an geforce gt 540m with 2gb ddr3 vram both paired with an intel i7. Question is which one would be the better card? Both pc's had 2.2 ghz with a 3.1 boast and other similar specs. Sorry for the noob question.[/QUOTE]

Those sound like laptops.

You want a PC or a laptop?
 
[quote name='j-cart']Those sound like laptops.

You want a PC or a laptop?[/QUOTE]

Damn...you really know your pc specs. Yup they're laptops. I've been wanting one so I can play in different rooms in the house.
 
Gaming Laptops are expensive, but still cheaper than a Macbook Pro :D

Just know that your battery life on those things will be on the lower end of "shit battery life." Which translates to barely over 2 hours and under 2 hours when gaming.

Look to spend around $1200 for something decent to game with. Start researching the Alienware M14x as that will be your cheapest option, with the Falcon NW TLX being your most expensive option.
 
i need help.

trying to built a gaming desktop and my budget is around 800.
im a noob on parts and etc but my friend is willing to help built it.
need some advice and budget items.
 
[quote name='j-cart']Just know that your battery life on those things will be on the lower end of "shit battery life." Which translates to barely over 2 hours and under 2 hours when gaming.

Look to spend around $1200 for something decent to game with. Start researching the Alienware M14x as that will be your cheapest option, with the Falcon NW TLX being your most expensive option.[/QUOTE]
I beg to differ with the first statement, you can find good budget/mid range gaming laptops that will play for 3 hours+.

I run the cheap A6 asus laptop K53TA with the 6720g x2 videocard (technically two video cards, cpu + discrete in async crossfire) for $450 shipped back in the summer. Plays fairly decent modern games @ 720p pretty good with a 5+ hour battery life with light use (including video playback) and about 3.2 hours playing video games like dirt2 and 3.
Dirt3: High:29fps Med:34fps | High:50fps Med:57fps
Crysis benchmark loop: High:22.8fps | High:34.2fps
BFBC2: Med:30-40fps | Med:40-50fps
JC2 dark tower: Custom:28.35fps | Custom:47.22fps​
Here's a link to the 3dmark11 scores which is a bit dismal, but meant for really stressing out video cards on high settings (link).

Now if you want more power and features, then yeah, you'll have to spend quite a bit more money than $450, but for around the 1200-1500 mark, you can still get nice i7's built around the gtx 560m/570m or Amd's 6990m. Battery life is a bit lower, but actually surprising well.

You can look at Sager, Asus, OriginPC and AVA direct to name a few brands that make decent rigs in those price ranges with the beefier gpu's.



[quote name='mattrobertsjr']i need help.

trying to built a gaming desktop and my budget is around 800.
im a noob on parts and etc but my friend is willing to help built it.
need some advice and budget items.[/QUOTE]
What games? Are you recycling any old parts from other computers? Where are you located? Are you a student? Do you need a monitor, keyboard, mouse and OS?
 
The gamer inside of me expects all PC gaming to be 1080+ @ 60 fps :D

So my numbers might have been a little off when it comes to laptop gaming. However that A6 Asus looks pretty good in terms of price to power ratio.
 
Its the only "gaming" notebook sub of $500, which made it the reason why I got it. I've been hella impressed for those quick dirt2/3 or batman moments when I need to escape on the airplane and its a blast seeing the people next react to me pulling out my xbox 360 controller and play games for a few hours. I just wish I had a 2nd battery or an option to put an ibm slice battery on for even longer game sessions.

Considering most $450 laptops come with shitty dual core with integrated graphics, this thing has two gpu cores and runs smooth like butter. The biggest down side is the low end led screen res at 1366x768 on a 15.6; considering I'm used to proper 1080/1200p displays at 15 or 17" gaming laptops.



Although, I do have my 30lb battery backup "generator" which is nothing more than a fancy sealed motorcycle/marine battery with a custom 900w sine wave power inverter specially made for sensitive electronic devices for my photographic studio strobes; it does grab quite a bit of attention with TSA every time I fly with it. The down thing is that I have to put the system in a checked luggage; not for carry on unless I find some sort of way to convince TSA that it's a medical device and that I can't live without it... Maybe rig up some medical looking stuff like tubes and pumps to it; perhaps a BP monitor with a cuff and oxygen sensor... lol Yes... I have a lot of time to think about ways to beat the system so I can game more.

I find it funny that TSA always opens my bag with the battery system. Then I get the note "your bag was personally inspected by a TSA agent".

My old boss, who has a similar system, tried to sneak his on with his carry on luggage for his trip to South Africa. The second he pulled it out for the TSA agent and turned it on (making a high pitched whine), he said it got "hot and heavy" really quick. They literally thought he activated a bomb, because all it is is a black aluminum box that looks like it was made a shed with a few air vents and some military grade looking switches and buttons. Lets just say he got delayed for an hour with questioning then told to put it in his checked luggage... but he did make it to his plane. lol


Actually, the last time I was down in Mexico and returning home, their agents inspected the device and didn't care. What they were most worried about, AND THEY CONFISCATED! was my cheap metal A-clamps that you can get for $1 at any home improvement store because they thought the clamps could be used as a weapon... I talked to the supervisor for 20 mins explaining what they were used for and I made the argument "what about this over here? your not worried about me carrying a suspicious looking device?" and he goes "no. you could sharpen these edges and use it like a knife..."

So there you have it. Airport security agents, removing cheap metal A-clamp knifes off our planes!


humm... went on a rant... didn't I...
 
im building a pc for the first time this upcoming month and mainly i want to set it up for gaming. i was wondering if anyone can help a noob and can tell me what is the best CPU for serious gaming, Intel I7 2600K or I5 2500K or AMD FX Bulldozer?
Also a top notch video card and what is the best brand to trust for quality?
any help would be appreciated,thanks.
 
there's a sale on the 480 right now at newegg for 210 dollars AR. Powerful card at a great price point, downside is it runs hot and uses a bit too much juice when pushed.
 
[quote name='joker______']im building a pc for the first time this upcoming month and mainly i want to set it up for gaming. i was wondering if anyone can help a noob and can tell me what is the best CPU for serious gaming, Intel I7 2600K or I5 2500K or AMD FX Bulldozer?
Also a top notch video card and what is the best brand to trust for quality?
any help would be appreciated,thanks.[/QUOTE]
First off, what is your budget? and since you won't be building till next month, have you heard of the next gen Intel i5/i7's called Ivy Bridge? They should be a good 5-15% performance difference of the same i5/i7's for a similar price point since they will be replacing Sandy Bridge. Plus 6 new chipsets being released just for Ivy Bridge.

Not only that but AMD 7800 mid range cards are due out any day while Nvidia is silently releasing their new kepler series gtx 660,670 and 680 next month. Not much is known on the performance besides the smack talk from nvida peeps and paper benchmarking of their specs. It could mean price drops next month too for older cards, but usually AMD is very fast and lowering their prices to compete against nvidia; nvidia, not so much, probably take 1-3 months to see any price drops.

Regardless, next month is going to be a very exciting time to see whats in store. Still need budget.


Also, just don't even bother with AMD FX bulldozer chips, completely worthless. Barely beats the it 2500k in some tests and not even a vast improvement of their older x6 lines. Even if you overclock them, they can't even beat the i7 2600k and they also eat power; bloating from 100w to 460 just for the cpu alone!
 
[quote name='JBaz']First off, what is your budget? and since you won't be building till next month, have you heard of the next gen Intel i5/i7's called Ivy Bridge? They should be a good 5-15% performance difference of the same i5/i7's for a similar price point since they will be replacing Sandy Bridge. Plus 6 new chipsets being released just for Ivy Bridge.

Not only that but AMD 7800 mid range cards are due out any day while Nvidia is silently releasing their new kepler series gtx 660,670 and 680 next month. Not much is known on the performance besides the smack talk from nvida peeps and paper benchmarking of their specs. It could mean price drops next month too for older cards, but usually AMD is very fast and lowering their prices to compete against nvidia; nvidia, not so much, probably take 1-3 months to see any price drops.

Regardless, next month is going to be a very exciting time to see whats in store. Still need budget.


Also, just don't even bother with AMD FX bulldozer chips, completely worthless. Barely beats the it 2500k in some tests and not even a vast improvement of their older x6 lines. Even if you overclock them, they can't even beat the i7 2600k and they also eat power; bloating from 100w to 460 just for the cpu alone![/QUOTE]


my budget is around $800, i already have a case and a hard drive so i got those areas covered. i do know about ivy bridge but all i heard till recently was it was delayed till summer unless they recently changed it to April.
well i can hold out till ivy bridge comes out i just hope its soon before Diablo 3 lol.

yes i have been looking a lot at AMD and Nvidia cards and i was hoping to get two low end cards to maybe crossfire or SLI but i must admit i was blown away by the Kepler performance this past week so i'm kinds drooling over that card at the moment but i know the price will be insane.

i agree about the bulldozer chips they are a disappointment after doing my research and its nice to think about having an 8 core but after reading all the issues it has with windows 7 and not being able to beat a quad core let alone be power hungry is a deal breaker for me even though the price is tempting. thank you for the info JBaz

i do have a question regarding which is the best brand for a PSU,memory and a motherboard? i have heard ASUS is the top of the line for mobo and corsair for ram and PSU but i'm unsure.
 
i do know about ivy bridge but all i heard till recently was it was delayed till summer unless they recently changed it to April.
Well then, you only heard half the story because Ivy Bridge was originally slated for Q1/Q2 2012 release, then 6 months ago, it got down to the March/April time frame. Then the unofficial April 8th date became the official launch date. Then what you heard was back in early/mid February when PR reports came from intel that Ivy Bridge was delayed to Early/Mid summer for mass shipments.

What is in fact true is that Desktop chips of Ivy Bridge will in fact be released on time on April 8th, which was later confirmed by Intel. What is not known is the volume that Intel will ship out on launch.

Intel's PR meant to say was that they were delaying the release of their low voltage chips (including mobile and low power desktop variants) so that vendors (mainly oem laptop builders) would have extra time to sell off their SB inventory. With not much stiff competition from AMD, Intel just held off. This was later reported on every tech news blog/media outlet last month since it was a bit confusing. (link)

i was blown away by the Kepler performance this past week
If you are talking about the tech demo, there's still no real benchmark numbers to go by and really see how well it compares against current gen stuff. While it was a good demo of the level of tech/graphics abilities we should see in the next year or so; still no numbers to go off of.

If you can wait a month or two, its going to be pointless to build a list right now, but here's something to look at (and no, its not internet ninja kitty... or boobs (look left))

Part list permalink / Part price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 NCIX US; $179.99 @ Microcenter B&M only)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($33.99 @ Mac Mall)
Motherboard: ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($137.86 @ Newegg)
Memory: Patriot Signature 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($42.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: HIS Radeon HD 6870 1GB Video Card ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: OCZ 700W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($44.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: LG GH22NS90B DVD/CD Writer ($15.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg)

Total: $721.31
(Prices include shipping and discounts when available.)
(Generated 2012-03-10 23:37 EST-0500)

This is just a basis idea to go off of, but this will change once ivy bridge hits the market and the 7850 that should be within you price range (250ish). I would have included the 6950 2gb, but all of the 6900 series cards are discontinued and completely out of stock everywhere. Also, just to mention, Newegg has the EVGA GTX 480 on sale for $210; A fast card, but its also loud and eats power like no tomorrow, but it a great buy right now considering the fact that the GTX 570's (same performance of the 480) is still in the $300-400 range. A good bit more powerful and capable than the 560 ti's for the same price.

CPU and mobo will change, but the good thing about the z68 asrock board is that it's Ivy Bridge ready with 3.0 pcie 16x slots and capable of dual card SLI/xFire solutions. One of the best performing and best budget mobo's on the market right now. You could always grab a cheap $100 i3 2100 chip into the build, rock that for a month, then buy the new ivy bridge i5 and toss the i3 on ebay if you are really looking to game right now.

The CM EVO cpu cooler is by far one of the best price/performing cooler on the market right now. For a budget build, this and the cheaper, but older CM 212+ would be great choices with a lot of overclocking capabilities.

I threw in any cheap set of decent 1600 speed, cas9 1.5v 8gb ram set, a decent 700w ocz power supply, a cheap dvd burner and a copy of win7 home premium to finish the build. You have about $80 leftover, but I would use that towards a better gpu once new mid range cards hit the market in a month or two.

i do have a question regarding which is the best brand for a PSU,memory and a motherboard? i have heard ASUS is the top of the line for mobo and corsair for ram and PSU but i'm unsure.
Power supplies? so many to list, almost easier to list what to avoid. I do have to say that I'm one of the few that just hate Rosewill units. I had 5, 3 burned out within 6 months; wasn't even worth it to send them back so I just replaced them with proper quality units from the bigger names. People always say good things about them, but I just kept getting bad ones even though I love newegg and rosewill do make some decent other products.

And besides, you don't have to break the bank to get a quality name brand unit to fit your build. Look at Corsair, Antec, OCZ, PC Power & Cooling, Silverstone and Seasonic as the name brands to look at first. Even Cooler master, XFX and Thermaltake makes some good stuff for a good value. There are quite a bit of other new comers to look at, but they usually are a bit more expensive, hit a product niche (explains their price), or usually a re-branded unit with the same components as some other good quality makers. FSP, Kingwin and Enermax fit that category, but they are very expensive for the price and offer crazy high 80+ gold or platinum efficiency at various wattages. I'd just stick with the 1st or 2nd tier brands with at least an 80+ bronze rating for your budget.

Also just to note, PC Power & Cooling was bought by OCZ in 2007. So their engineers also build OCZ power supplies, which is why they are a tremendous value with good features and great performers. For the price, you really can't beat them. And I've used their stuff for years. Not one has died.

I have their 500, 600, 700 modx as well as their new z series 850w; all work just perfect. The older modx are actually only 80+ cert but because this was before they branched it off into today's colors (bronze, silver, gold, platinum), but they still work great. All of the modx's are actually very efficient, above 85% until you get about to 80% load and then it dips off significantly to 80-81% ; barely enough to meet their 80+ standard.

The new ZS, Z and ZX series aren't like that. They are very level throughout and actually under rated. My 850 can peak to 940 and still be 80+ gold efficient; its just not recommended. I have powered my i7 and 3x 570's with it, eating up 900w from the wall for months doing folding @home with no ill effects. Just can't praise it enough.

You can actually go on 80plus.org (the official 80+ cert website) to see how any psu that passed perform. Its not as detailed as proper review sights like hardware secrets or johnny guru, but its a good basis since their tests are standardized for normal home/office settings.



RAM? I threw in the cheapest name brand you can get, but anything here would work really. Just stick with 1600, cas9 or lower timings and 1.5v rating. You can find 1.65v modules for a bit cheaper, but they are indicative of being cheap chips and overclocked to hit the 1600 speed. I'd say stay away from wintec, transcend and pareema, but they are oem modules and should just work the same; I prefer corsair, crucial, g.skill, kingston and patriot in that order.

Now, you can also look at the incredible cheap Samsung 30nm 4gb 1600 modules. At stock settings, they seem underwhelming, but once you manually set your speed, timings and voltage; they are a different breed. When most modules are still running older and larger 40nm or even 60nm chips, Samsung uses their own and new 30nm tech and thus gives it a big improvement and hits higher speeds without much effort. They have been known to hit 9-9-9 timings at 2000 speed @ 1.55v or 9-11-10 @ 2133 with 1.6v. Not too shabby for $24 each. Read more about the ram at Techpower up and Overclockers.

Honestly, RAM speed is actually pretty overrated and you'll barely see any real world improvement from 1600 to 2133 speeds. Maybe, and I stress this, MAYBE 1-5% increase in apps that would use the ram heavily. Hard to justify almost $25 extra over some decent standard ddr3 1600 speed ram modules. I'd recommend looking at the G.Skill Sniper series 1600 cas9 1.25v 8gb (2x4gb) set for $50 @ newegg. More than fast enough, hits a good price point and its 1.25v to boot! It won't overclock like the Samsung does, but if you don't want to fiddle around with ram settings and see what would be stable for your system, then just grab those. You can also grab any $40 pair of 1.5v version and still be just fine, just using a little more wattage.



Motherboard? Stick with the big four (which is actually three since Asus owns Asrock, its their value oriented brand): Asus, Asrock, Gigabyte and Msi. There are the cheap Zotac, Biostar and ECS boards you can use, but I'd only recommend those for uber cheap builds that you have no plans on overclocking. Their power distro components aren't as good or the design set for it; plus they tend to lack features that you'd probably like like SLI/xFire.

I do tend to favor Asus/Asrock more since that's what I run on my most current machines, but I have built PC's for people on Gigabyte and MSi with no issues. I actually like Gigabyte the best as their CS is better than the other two. Asus CS is the worst in the business; if you think Home Del CS is bad, just wait till you have to deal with Asus with anything. And I have so many Asus products too! lol.

But don't be dismayed about Asus/Asrock because their shit rarely breaks down and they have a decent amount of FAQ's/ support info on their website to figure shit out if you are good at reading, following directions and troubleshoot.




And with everything listed here, do your do diligence; follow up on tech forums, news sights and review sights to really dig deep on the products that are you getting to see what you are paying for. HardOCP, Maximum PC, Overclockers.net and Techpower up are all great forums to pick people's minds about tech specific questions; even help troubleshoot shit.
 
[quote name='JBaz']
Power supplies? so many to list, almost easier to list what to avoid. I do have to say that I'm one of the few that just hate Rosewill units. I had 5, 3 burned out within 6 months; wasn't even worth it to send them back so I just replaced them with proper quality units from the bigger names. People always say good things about them, but I just kept getting bad ones even though I love newegg and rosewill do make some decent other products.[/QUOTE]

What Rosewill PSUs did you try? I'd only recommend the Capstones because they're rebranded superflower units. I'm sure some of Rosewills other PSUs have problems, but it's hard to go wrong with superflower. I actually bought a Rosewill Capstone PSU over a Corsair because it's a high quality rebranded superflower, and higher quality than the Corsair PSUs that I was looking at. Brand name doesn't always mean everything, which is the case for the Capstone PSUs. However, Corsair has a great warranty and fantastic customer service so they'd be a good choice as well if you need a new PSU.

Also, I figured out what was wrong with the P8Z68-V LE motherboard I had to send back to newegg. The CPU socket pins were bent, and I'm positive I didn't bend them, I now know to check them before installing anything when I get a new motherboard, but newegg originally declined my RMA until I told them that they weren't bent by me. I guess that's something to watch out for, I was looking over some user reviews/comments and it seems to be somewhat common, although I don't know if it's just common to the P8Z68 series or motherboards in general, this was the first time I received one with bent pins.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I had various sized older Stallion and Greens for low budget home office rigs that barely drew anything more than 250w on load, if that. More like 150w load.

I looked at the Capstones, but honestly too expensive for not enough wattage, even if they are 80+ gold. You can get better name brand units for the same price or cheaper. The Z series OCZ can be had for cheap; $80 for 850, $110 for 1000 and $140 for 1250 when they go on sale. After my experience with rosewill psu, I'll never go back. I might have gotten really bad batches and it may be better now, but there's just way more options to pick from before you even get to rosewill crap, so why even take a chance?


Besides, for home settings, 80+ gold isn't really necessary; a nice feature yes, but we are talking about a few % of efficiency from the more normal 80+ bronze that you see. Even if you take a 1000w psu on max load for 8 hours a day for 365 days; at my current price of 11 cents per kWh and figure a 5% lose of efficiency, that would net $16.06 in a price difference in my power bill.

(((1000w * .05%) * 8 hours * 365 days) / 1000w) * .11 $/kWh = $16.06

If you have a system that can actually down 1000w on a home computer, you aren't going to buy rosewill... Even then, you could probably afford the few extra bones per year if you stayed with a Bronze level PSU if you were willing to invest in a high powered SLI/xfire system. But then again, you'd probably have the bones to dish out on spending 200-300+ for a quality psu; maybe even go platinum.

Then again, most builders who build on that kind of level are more worried about how good/stable the 12v rails are going to be and how much noise or ripple the psu will be able to filter out to provide clean/smooth power at various load outputs.
 
[quote name='JBaz']Well then, you only heard half the story because Ivy Bridge was originally slated for Q1/Q2 2012 release, then 6 months ago, it got down to the March/April time frame. Then the unofficial April 8th date became the official launch date. Then what you heard was back in early/mid February when PR reports came from intel that Ivy Bridge was delayed to Early/Mid summer for mass shipments.

What is in fact true is that Desktop chips of Ivy Bridge will in fact be released on time on April 8th, which was later confirmed by Intel. What is not known is the volume that Intel will ship out on launch.

Intel's PR meant to say was that they were delaying the release of their low voltage chips (including mobile and low power desktop variants) so that vendors (mainly oem laptop builders) would have extra time to sell off their SB inventory. With not much stiff competition from AMD, Intel just held off. This was later reported on every tech news blog/media outlet last month since it was a bit confusing. (link)


If you are talking about the tech demo, there's still no real benchmark numbers to go by and really see how well it compares against current gen stuff. While it was a good demo of the level of tech/graphics abilities we should see in the next year or so; still no numbers to go off of.

If you can wait a month or two, its going to be pointless to build a list right now, but here's something to look at (and no, its not internet ninja kitty... or boobs (look left))
Part list permalink / Part price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 NCIX US; $179.99 @ Microcenter B&M only)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($33.99 @ Mac Mall)
Motherboard: ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($137.86 @ Newegg)
Memory: Patriot Signature 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($42.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: HIS Radeon HD 6870 1GB Video Card ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: OCZ 700W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($44.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: LG GH22NS90B DVD/CD Writer ($15.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg)

Total: $721.31
(Prices include shipping and discounts when available.)
(Generated 2012-03-10 23:37 EST-0500)
This is just a basis idea to go off of, but this will change once ivy bridge hits the market and the 7850 that should be within you price range (250ish). I would have included the 6950 2gb, but all of the 6900 series cards are discontinued and completely out of stock everywhere. Also, just to mention, Newegg has the EVGA GTX 480 on sale for $210; A fast card, but its also loud and eats power like no tomorrow, but it a great buy right now considering the fact that the GTX 570's (same performance of the 480) is still in the $300-400 range. A good bit more powerful and capable than the 560 ti's for the same price.

CPU and mobo will change, but the good thing about the z68 asrock board is that it's Ivy Bridge ready with 3.0 pcie 16x slots and capable of dual card SLI/xFire solutions. One of the best performing and best budget mobo's on the market right now. You could always grab a cheap $100 i3 2100 chip into the build, rock that for a month, then buy the new ivy bridge i5 and toss the i3 on ebay if you are really looking to game right now.

The CM EVO cpu cooler is by far one of the best price/performing cooler on the market right now. For a budget build, this and the cheaper, but older CM 212+ would be great choices with a lot of overclocking capabilities.

I threw in any cheap set of decent 1600 speed, cas9 1.5v 8gb ram set, a decent 700w ocz power supply, a cheap dvd burner and a copy of win7 home premium to finish the build. You have about $80 leftover, but I would use that towards a better gpu once new mid range cards hit the market in a month or two.


Power supplies? so many to list, almost easier to list what to avoid. I do have to say that I'm one of the few that just hate Rosewill units. I had 5, 3 burned out within 6 months; wasn't even worth it to send them back so I just replaced them with proper quality units from the bigger names. People always say good things about them, but I just kept getting bad ones even though I love newegg and rosewill do make some decent other products.

And besides, you don't have to break the bank to get a quality name brand unit to fit your build. Look at Corsair, Antec, OCZ, PC Power & Cooling, Silverstone and Seasonic as the name brands to look at first. Even Cooler master, XFX and Thermaltake makes some good stuff for a good value. There are quite a bit of other new comers to look at, but they usually are a bit more expensive, hit a product niche (explains their price), or usually a re-branded unit with the same components as some other good quality makers. FSP, Kingwin and Enermax fit that category, but they are very expensive for the price and offer crazy high 80+ gold or platinum efficiency at various wattages. I'd just stick with the 1st or 2nd tier brands with at least an 80+ bronze rating for your budget.

Also just to note, PC Power & Cooling was bought by OCZ in 2007. So their engineers also build OCZ power supplies, which is why they are a tremendous value with good features and great performers. For the price, you really can't beat them. And I've used their stuff for years. Not one has died.

I have their 500, 600, 700 modx as well as their new z series 850w; all work just perfect. The older modx are actually only 80+ cert but because this was before they branched it off into today's colors (bronze, silver, gold, platinum), but they still work great. All of the modx's are actually very efficient, above 85% until you get about to 80% load and then it dips off significantly to 80-81% ; barely enough to meet their 80+ standard.

The new ZS, Z and ZX series aren't like that. They are very level throughout and actually under rated. My 850 can peak to 940 and still be 80+ gold efficient; its just not recommended. I have powered my i7 and 3x 570's with it, eating up 900w from the wall for months doing folding @home with no ill effects. Just can't praise it enough.

You can actually go on 80plus.org (the official 80+ cert website) to see how any psu that passed perform. Its not as detailed as proper review sights like hardware secrets or johnny guru, but its a good basis since their tests are standardized for normal home/office settings.



RAM? I threw in the cheapest name brand you can get, but anything here would work really. Just stick with 1600, cas9 or lower timings and 1.5v rating. You can find 1.65v modules for a bit cheaper, but they are indicative of being cheap chips and overclocked to hit the 1600 speed. I'd say stay away from wintec, transcend and pareema, but they are oem modules and should just work the same; I prefer corsair, crucial, g.skill, kingston and patriot in that order.

Now, you can also look at the incredible cheap Samsung 30nm 4gb 1600 modules. At stock settings, they seem underwhelming, but once you manually set your speed, timings and voltage; they are a different breed. When most modules are still running older and larger 40nm or even 60nm chips, Samsung uses their own and new 30nm tech and thus gives it a big improvement and hits higher speeds without much effort. They have been known to hit 9-9-9 timings at 2000 speed @ 1.55v or 9-11-10 @ 2133 with 1.6v. Not too shabby for $24 each. Read more about the ram at Techpower up and Overclockers.

Honestly, RAM speed is actually pretty overrated and you'll barely see any real world improvement from 1600 to 2133 speeds. Maybe, and I stress this, MAYBE 1-5% increase in apps that would use the ram heavily. Hard to justify almost $25 extra over some decent standard ddr3 1600 speed ram modules. I'd recommend looking at the G.Skill Sniper series 1600 cas9 1.25v 8gb (2x4gb) set for $50 @ newegg. More than fast enough, hits a good price point and its 1.25v to boot! It won't overclock like the Samsung does, but if you don't want to fiddle around with ram settings and see what would be stable for your system, then just grab those. You can also grab any $40 pair of 1.5v version and still be just fine, just using a little more wattage.



Motherboard? Stick with the big four (which is actually three since Asus owns Asrock, its their value oriented brand): Asus, Asrock, Gigabyte and Msi. There are the cheap Zotac, Biostar and ECS boards you can use, but I'd only recommend those for uber cheap builds that you have no plans on overclocking. Their power distro components aren't as good or the design set for it; plus they tend to lack features that you'd probably like like SLI/xFire.

I do tend to favor Asus/Asrock more since that's what I run on my most current machines, but I have built PC's for people on Gigabyte and MSi with no issues. I actually like Gigabyte the best as their CS is better than the other two. Asus CS is the worst in the business; if you think Home Del CS is bad, just wait till you have to deal with Asus with anything. And I have so many Asus products too! lol.

But don't be dismayed about Asus/Asrock because their shit rarely breaks down and they have a decent amount of FAQ's/ support info on their website to figure shit out if you are good at reading, following directions and troubleshoot.




And with everything listed here, do your do diligence; follow up on tech forums, news sights and review sights to really dig deep on the products that are you getting to see what you are paying for. HardOCP, Maximum PC, Overclockers.net and Techpower up are all great forums to pick people's minds about tech specific questions; even help troubleshoot shit.[/QUOTE]


i can totally wait for Ivy Bridge i don't need to game now but i'm glad to see that the wait isn't too long and after seeing the improvements its worth the wait.

nice thanks for the parts listed and that's around my budget range too. i hope i can get a cheap ssd during a sale as well from now till Ivy Bridge.

to be quite honest i was looking at that card earlier and does seem to be a great card for the price but sadly it sold out during the sale. hopefully it will get restocked.

i am aiming to get 16 gb of ram and i saw Fry's has a set of Corsair for around $72 but $52 after MIR so not bad for the price but the those G.Skill sniper look mighty fine as well.

for the mobo i was thinking about the ASUS Saber tooth and it is Ivy Bridge ready so it seems a little pricey but i think a little bit more cash into the mobo wouldn't hurt,it be nice if they would have a combo with it.

thanks again for all the info and insight,ill definitely do my research on the following sites you've posted and ill keep you informed on my build.
 
The 6870 is one of the best price/performance video card on the market today. It was only outclassed by the old GTX 460 1gb, but since that's deactived and can't find them anymore, AMD takes the ring. And I can tell you, the 460's are awesome, specially when they could be had for $100-130 each all the time last year; strap two in SLI and it beats a 580 by 20-30%. The GTX 550 ti that now replaces the 460's price point is a worse performing card; it was especially confusing when it was first released at $150-160 because it was priced between the 460 at 100-130 and the more expensive GTX 560 vanilla at 180-200.

And speaking of prices, $150 isn't that great of a sale price for the 6870. Just 6 months ago, they were popping up between 130-150 with 1-3 games (stalker, dirt3, shogun 2 and/or deus ex). I actually got an XFX one with dirt3, shogun2 and deus ex for 140AR, AC; sold the games around $15-20 a piece and resold the gpu for $130 to a friend.


If this is going to be a gaming rig, don't even bother with more than 8GB. Specially for an 800ish gaming rig. No game right now will use more than 4gb (and that's just skyrim); all other games will use 1-2GB. You can up it to 16 if you want, but its not needed even though ram is cheap. By the time games will actually need more than 8gb of system ram, you'll probably have to build a new system anyhow. Direct x 26 would be out by then... lol


As for mobo, Asus Sabertooth doesn't come in lga 1155 socket anymore. The p67 version is deactived. Besides, its mostly a shitty board that's expensive. (Clarify, its not shitty, its a good board, just a bad value) For $200, you can get a better asus board or even grab the asrock ext4 gen3... or just stick with the ext3 gen3 for $130 that will fit your needs better. It supports 2 card SLI/xfire. If you need anything more then that, you will need to up your budget.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
ill look into the 6870 tonight and do my research on it.

i have a question about video cards in general and i can never find a straight answer to this so hopefully you can shed light onto it. when you look at the specs of a video card and it says 128,192 or 256 bit what is that? i've asked around but i can't get an answer besides i don't know lol.

well i trust your judgement and ill hold back on the memory to 8 then and when i have enough money ill bump it to 16.

i know to def go with a gigabyte or ASUS maybe biostar mobo, at the moment i have an old biostar and i never had problems with it but i've read reviews here and there that it isn't the best but not the worst either.
 
I'm going to assume the 128, 192, 256 bit is being referred to the memory bus width. It's just how wide the lanes are to transport information to and from the memory; this value can not change and dependent on the vram used. It's part of how much bandwidth you have; which is bus width (bits) * clock speed of the memory / 8 bits = Bytes/sec. In this case, you want to see how much bandwidth you have. DDR3 tends to be narrow and slow compared to the newer DDR5.

You can look on wiki for stock settings on most cards from nvidia and amd.


As for memory, you can up it to 16gb if you want, its just that you won't be using it for gaming. Honestly right now is the lowest prices DDR3 is ever going to get and experts have hinted that prices are going to creep back up in the next 6 to 12 months since the market is just completely saturated. Even a number of manufacturers have pulled out of the DRAM business all together since the margins are too low.

Still, by the time a normal, average user will need more than 8gb for gaming or simple other apps/tasks, we could be on the next DDR standard in a few years. DDR4 was suppose to replace DDR3 this year, but it probably won't happen even in 3 years since quad channel on lga 2011 kind helped with increasing memory bandwidth for system memory.



Also the fact that while cpu's are very powerful, they don't really require that much bandwidth unlike gpu's that just crunch through calculations and pixels; reason why General Purpose GPU programming languages/apps are becoming a big hit in the last 5 years with CUDA and now OpenCL. GPU's are around 30x more powerful than even the latest gen i7 chip right now. Reason why a number of high end super computers now and the near future will or are based on nvidia's Tesla gpu's in SLI.

The Jaguar super computer at the Oak Ridge National Laboratory in Tennessee is currently the 3rd fastest super computer right now. They use 224,256 AMD Opteron processors (from 2009) that pump out 1.75 petaflops of calculating power. They are expecting to upgrade this summer with the new Kepler series Tesla 3000 GPGPU's for a grand new expected total of 20 petaflops, or 10 more than the current leader in Japan with 705,024 cores (and that's a very huge margin btw).

If each tesla card can pump out an expected 2 Teraflops (estimating), then it would only take 9125 cards to upgrade the supercomputer. This means that for every 875 video cards, its completes the same amount of work as 224k+ cpu's. In the computing work, that's just impressive. But again, it depends on what calculations they are doing for the flops.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I need some PC help, maybe someone on here can provide an answer for me. I recently have been having trouble with a secondary hdd in my pc, its making a loud noise on startup and sometimes will not show up in windows once the pc has booted up. So I took it out of my pc and tried booting my pc up but I got a disk boot failure message before windows loaded up. It wanted me to insert a Windows DVD, I couldn't go any further. I went thru the BIOS and everything looked ok from what I could tell. So I went ahead and hooked my dying hdd back up and then my pc booted fine again (although that hdd sounded like death).

After some research I think I figured out my problem, somehow the 100 megabytes of "system reserved" space isn't on the same drive as my main windows install (Windows is installed to my ssd, I also have a 1TB hdd for storage in my pc as well). The "system reserved" partition is unfortunately on this hdd that's failing me now. Is there some way I can move that partition from that failing drive to either my main Windows drive (ssd) or even to my 1TB storage drive? I'm trying to avoid having to reinstall Windows 7 if I can help it.


EDIT: NEVERMIND I got it figured out. I found a nice post online that was able to help me a lot.

Also as a side note anyone getting a GTX 680? I might pick one up if I can find one for close to $500, my old SLI'd GTX 460's are started to bottleneck my system on a few of the highest end games.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Here is what I am looking at for a build:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157271
Board (ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 )

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231416
Ram (G.SKILL Sniper 8GB) x 2 for 16 GB

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004EBUXHQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Processor (2500K)

I plan on resuing my Antec 900 case. BD and HD DVD drives, and my 460 until the 680 comes down in price when the gk 110 comes out. I went ahead and got an Antec Neo 620C, a Cooler Master 212 for a HSF, and a 120 GB OCZ Agility 3 as my primary hard drive.

Any reason I shouldn't go ahead and bite on those components? Really tired of waiting on Ivy Bridge at this point. I know the board and processor have been discussed to death, my main concern is with the RAM. I normally would go with Corsair, but last time I bought Corsair desktop memory it went bad on me.
 
[quote name='CaseyRyback']Here is what I am looking at for a build:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157271
Board (ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 )

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231416
Ram (G.SKILL Sniper 8GB) x 2 for 16 GB

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004EBUXHQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Processor (2500K)

I plan on resuing my Antec 900 case. BD and HD DVD drives, and my 460 until the 680 comes down in price when the gk 110 comes out. I went ahead and got an Antec Neo 620C, a Cooler Master 212 for a HSF, and a 120 GB OCZ Agility 3 as my primary hard drive.

Any reason I shouldn't go ahead and bite on those components? Really tired of waiting on Ivy Bridge at this point. I know the board and processor have been discussed to death, my main concern is with the RAM. I normally would go with Corsair, but last time I bought Corsair desktop memory it went bad on me.[/QUOTE]

Those parts seem fine to me, but do you really need 16gb ram? Most people are fine with 8gb. I think issues with ram are usually luck of the draw, so I doubt the brand will matter as long as it's from someone reputable which G.Skill certainly is. Corsair has fantastic customer support though. Supposedly Asrock boards have poorer quality control than you'd see from other brands (from what I've heard on hardforum), but that board is probably ok.
 
[quote name='sunghost']Those parts seem fine to me, but do you really need 16gb ram? Most people are fine with 8gb. I think issues with ram are usually luck of the draw, so I doubt the brand will matter as long as it's from someone reputable which G.Skill certainly is. Corsair has fantastic customer support though. Supposedly Asrock boards have poorer quality control than you'd see from other brands (from what I've heard on hardforum), but that board is probably ok.[/QUOTE]

Yeah the 16 gigs of RAM is probably overkill. I might just go with the 8, but the thought of having 16 gigs of RAM for only 80 bucks just seems pretty awesome.
 
16GB is overkill for a gaming rig, you really don't need anything more than 4-8GB; Most PC games will only use 1-2GB of system ram with the few exceptions like Skyrim which can use up to 4GB.

And honestly... Can't wait till April 8th? Just over a week away. Honestly, I'd say grab a cheap sandy bridge chip like some crappy G530 or something for $40-50, then upgrade to Ivy Bridge the following week. I mean you are running an older budget gaming card so its not like the G530 will slow you down a lot.
 
[quote name='JBaz']And honestly... Can't wait till April 8th? Just over a week away. Honestly, I'd say grab a cheap sandy bridge chip like some crappy G530 or something for $40-50, then upgrade to Ivy Bridge the following week. I mean you are running an older budget gaming card so its not like the G530 will slow you down a lot.[/QUOTE]

The question I have is will the price really drop all that much? Ivy Bridge sounds like it is going to be only a modest upgrade. Right now, I can get a i5-2500k w/ ASRock Z68 Extreme3 for $255 from Microcenter. I'll wait and see how much Ivy Bridge goes for, but probably not that cheap.
 
I've never set up a home network before (just connecting the modem to the PC via ethernet cable). Can anyone please recommend a setup for a small apartment that would allow 1 desktop PC to remain a wired connection, but also provide wifi access for a secondary pc and 2 smartphones? Even a link to something to read would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
 
[quote name='dfg']I've never set up a home network before (just connecting the modem to the PC via ethernet cable). Can anyone please recommend a setup for a small apartment that would allow 1 desktop PC to remain a wired connection, but also provide wifi access for a secondary pc and 2 smartphones? Even a link to something to read would be appreciated. Thanks in advance![/QUOTE]

Look into a wireless router. Connect your (cable, I assume) modem to the router and connect your PC to the router.

I'll let others recommend specific ones to you, since I haven't bought one since I went with Verizon. (They include their own router.)
 
[quote name='TheLongshot']The question I have is will the price really drop all that much? Ivy Bridge sounds like it is going to be only a modest upgrade. Right now, I can get a i5-2500k w/ ASRock Z68 Extreme3 for $255 from Microcenter. I'll wait and see how much Ivy Bridge goes for, but probably not that cheap.[/QUOTE]

I really don't think you're gonna beat that microcenter combo deal. If I lived near a microcenter, I'd take that deal over waiting for Ivy Bridge, but then again I don't know how long it'd take for microcenter to have a combo deal including an Ivy Bridge CPU? That price is a steal IMO, and hard to beat.
 
[quote name='TheLongshot']Look into a wireless router. Connect your (cable, I assume) modem to the router and connect your PC to the router.

I'll let others recommend specific ones to you, since I haven't bought one since I went with Verizon. (They include their own router.)[/QUOTE]

Thanks! Yes, I've got Comcast cable. I hope others might chime in with brand recommendations and such.
 
[quote name='TheLongshot']The question I have is will the price really drop all that much? Ivy Bridge sounds like it is going to be only a modest upgrade. Right now, I can get a i5-2500k w/ ASRock Z68 Extreme3 for $255 from Microcenter. I'll wait and see how much Ivy Bridge goes for, but probably not that cheap.[/QUOTE]
Well, that piece of vital information would be vital... living next to a microcenter... Shit... fuck Ivy Bridge at that price point then. I was assuming anyone who was looking to build right now were buying this at an online retailer at close to MSRP since most people don't live near a MC as its a very small chain store and most of their deals are B&M only.

And its not about price drops on SB chips, its about replacing the SB with IB at the exact same price points of SB with 5-15% improvement across the board. I mean if you can't wait and found a good deal that hits a good price/performance ratio, then it doesn't matter how good IB would be since it performs very similar for gaming.

However, SB chips are already an 18 month old design at this point; if you plan on doing more than just gaming, it would make sense to wait the week and see what the launch day prices would be even though intel says the MSRP are going to be the same as SB launch prices. Retailers are probably going to put a price premium but hopefully not by much. MC combo deals will still be there; they do it all the time.

So if you can wait, you'll be better set in finding a deal/chip/combo that hits your price point and performance needs. We aren't talking about waiting months... just 7 days for a chip that's 22nm, uses the first 3d transistors, and crazy potential for high overclocking (higher multiplier than SB) on a 77w TDP chip (less then that when you disable the IGP).
 
[quote name='JBaz']So if you can wait, you'll be better set in finding a deal/chip/combo that hits your price point and performance needs. We aren't talking about waiting months... just 7 days for a chip that's 22nm, uses the first 3d transistors, and crazy potential for high overclocking (higher multiplier than SB) on a 77w TDP chip (less then that when you disable the IGP).[/QUOTE]

At the same time, my rig is 6 years old, running a Core2Duo 6600. The processor is the biggest thing holding this computer back, and it is showing its age.
 
heres what I have so far:

case: (not sure yet which one):
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119216 $79.99 after rebate its $69.99 or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146085 $99.99

hard drive:
http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digit...7MV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333437098&sr=8-1 - $136.08

wireless adapter( is this one necessary, I live on first floor and the router is upstairs but on my laptop I usually lag when everyone is on) :
http://www.amazon.com/Asus-Wireless...1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333437198&sr=1-1 - $39.39

Processor:
http://www.amazon.com/Intel-BX80623...UXHQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333437278&sr=8-1 - $204.99

Ram:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231546 $44.99

Dvd Drive:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204 - $19.99

Graphic Card:
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-...1PHO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333437407&sr=8-1 - $189.99

Motherboard(really don't know which one to get):
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130573 $159.99 after rebate its $129.99 or http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131773 - $132.99

Power Supply: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-500-W...1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333437606&sr=1-1 - $58.24

Sound Card:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829102003 - $29.99

Cooler:
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master...YPH0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333337605&sr=8-1 - $22.99

Windows 7:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116986 - $99.99

Fan Filter:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8...Aluminum_Plastic_Chassis.html?tl=g47c223s1024 - $9.99




total cost: About $1086.61

budget is around 800... I need some advice and what am I missing or is this a good gaming computer that will last me for a while.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
[quote name='mattrobertsjr']heres what I have so far:

case: (not sure yet which one):
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119216 $79.99 after rebate its $69.99 or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146085 $99.99

hard drive:
http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digit...7MV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333437098&sr=8-1 - $136.08

wireless adapter( is this one necessary, I live on first floor and the router is upstairs but on my laptop I usually lag when everyone is on) :
http://www.amazon.com/Asus-Wireless...1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333437198&sr=1-1 - $39.39

Processor:
http://www.amazon.com/Intel-BX80623...UXHQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333437278&sr=8-1 - $204.99

Ram:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231546 $44.99

Dvd Drive:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204 - $19.99

Graphic Card:
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-...1PHO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333437407&sr=8-1 - $189.99

Motherboard(really don't know which one to get):
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130573 $159.99 after rebate its $129.99 or http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131773 - $132.99

Power Supply: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-500-W...1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1333437606&sr=1-1 - $58.24

Sound Card:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829102003 - $29.99

Cooler:
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master...YPH0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333337605&sr=8-1 - $22.99

Windows 7:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116986 - $99.99

Fan Filter:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8...Aluminum_Plastic_Chassis.html?tl=g47c223s1024 - $9.99




total cost: About $1086.61

budget is around 800... I need some advice and what am I missing or is this a good gaming computer that will last me for a while.

[/QUOTE]

I dont think you need the sound card since it looks like both mobos have the 5.1 line outs, so that's $30 saved.

You might want to check newegg's combo deals. You can save a couple of dollars here and there unless those are the specific parts you want and newegg does not offer a combination of your parts
 
bread's done
Back
Top