Was bored, did mod.

Yeah, the Saturn mod is nice and easy (since it already outputs it), but the TG16 s-vid mod is a pretty significant mod. I'm sorta scared of it :(
 
LOL!

It's an Extron. Take a look on eBay. They're typically used by television stations and the like. They're made to order and you'll be buying them used, so it may take a bit to find one that matches your wants/needs. Mine has 5 coax inputs (via BNC connectors) per channel unit with 8 channles and 4 outputs, of which I use 3. One for Conponent, one for S-vid, and one for Composite.
 
That's way too pricey, plus it doesn't have enough channels per input (looks like 2, which would mean composite video and mono audio at best). I got mine for about 50 bucks.

They typically use what are known as "BNC" connectors. Adapters for RCA and S-vid are readily available, though the latter are a tad pricey (like 10-15 bucks each).
 
Damn :/

So I randomly made it into a German gaming mag.  No idea how that happened, but according to their map, I live in New Mexico :p

WP_20130725_002_zpsf4f33361.jpg


 
Hey WiggyX.

I finished installing the backlight GBA kits I ordered from you. Unfortunately, I believe there is some manner of problem with the 32-pin one. The 40 pin model I ordered worked without any hiccups, and it looks fantastic. Bold, bright, and clear. The GBA I refurbished with that kit looks and runs great.

But the 32 pin model I tried to install seems to be flawed somehow. I think it must have something to do with the cable. I tried installing it on multiple GBAs, and tested it with different back-light screens. The problem persists, even with hardware I know to be functioning properly otherwise. The issue that is cropping up is that the screen is not as bright as it ought to be, and all the colors are washed out. There's also a bit of a ghosting effect whenever the screen scrolls, or there is noticeable motion happening. Any ideas on what could be causing this?

 
32 pin?  Do you know how to adjust the potentiometer on the back of the PC board?

edit: are you the guy that sent a message on FB and an email about this?

 
Last edited by a moderator:
wiggyx said:
32 pin? Do you know how to adjust the potentiometer on the back of the PC board?

edit: are you the guy that sent a message on FB and an email about this?
Click to expand...
I did not know about adjusting the potentiometer on the back of the PC board. I'll do a google search on that and give it a try. And no, I didn't send you an e-mail or a Facebook message about this. That must be someone else.

 
Parasite Eve said:
Ever tried messing with a JVC Xeye? Wish i could have my genesis and saturn in one. Didn't like the sega cd much.
Click to expand...
I've never attempted to mod one. But I did manage to acquire one.

sml_gallery_101565_7869_1370780768_28724.jpg


The Sega CD had its moments. It would have been a lot better if we had gotten some of the higher-quality import titles. But the localization scene back then was a lot less robust. Of course, the complete lack of copy protection on the Sega CD has its advantages in this day and age.

Also, WiggyX, good call on that potentiometer. I adjusted it and now the GBA is working just fine. Here's a pic of the finished units.

med_gallery_100232_7869_388240.jpg


Fully refurbished with brand new exteriors, glass lenses, and now the Rose Colored Gaming GBA backlight kits. They really turned out well, and are running beautifully.

Here's a quick pic of the unit on the left before I went to work on it.

med_gallery_100232_7869_557238.jpg


It's a bit dingy. I got it off of eBay for a very low price. No rear battery cover, and badly in need of a good cleaning.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Glad to see it's working correctly. I should probably put that bit about the pot in the manual. I've been hesitant because it's easy to over do it ;/
 
Crap, I missed out on the latest sale of Earthbound Zero cartridges. Did they seriously sell out in five minutes? I had been checking the site regularly, but even I can't be sure of hitting a five minute window. (sigh) Guess I'm going to have to finally figure out this Twitter crap.

 
2 minutes, 45 seconds and all 5 were gone :/

I don't even know how the first two sold so quickly. 1 & 2 literally sold within 20 seconds of being added to the site o_O Either way, we're gonna keep making more. In fact, we might bring on a little extra help to get larger quantities cranked out ASAP.
 
wiggyx said:
2 minutes, 45 seconds and all 5 were gone :/
Click to expand...
I would imagine that some of the publicity you managed to get on this thing has affected the demand. You even got a picture of the product in that German magazine. And Earthbound fans are a pretty enthusiastic lot. A reproduction cart like this is ambrosia to them.

On the one hand, I'm glad you're seeing some decent success with this product. I like your work and am glad if you are able to flourish doing what you love. On the other hand, I want one of these for myself! And this level of demand is going to make it more challenging.

 
Indeed. These carts take way too much work by the methods that we're currently employing. I've got enough chips flashed to do about 15 more carts, and I'm not sure if we're gonna do more after those or not. I will say that we have 2 more repro projects lined up. One will be cool, but nothing over the top. The other is going to be pretty nuts and will most likely take the next 3-4 months to bring to fruition.
 
"Rose Colored Gaming" randomly showed up on my Recommended Pages/Get Important News. I'm guessing because Stone Age Gamer is the only page I "like."

 
It's ridiculous that a plastic box has to cost $5 at Radio Shack. Where do you get your project enclosures?  I'm thinking I should get one, since I'm working on a project that could make me a little money, and I can't get away with using Mentos Gum cases.

 
Honestly, I typically make them form scratch.  And now that I have the 3D printer, I just use that :p

So, we've been building portables like non-stop.  60-65 actually :)

null_zps937a22d2.jpg


 
It's a replicator 2. It gets the job done, but the resolution isn't such that tiny parts are doable (like controller buttons for instance).

Yeah, I partnered up with someone about 3 months ago. Was simply impossible to continue on my own.

Unfortunately I still do the finances :/
 
After searching through so many 99c stores, I couldn't find a freakin' small plastic box. I hope AVR microcontrollers are durable, because I'm going to resort to heat shrinking them.

Or I might as well relent and go to a costco and buy all that candy. :)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'm just hooking up some cables to a microcontroller, that's about it. :p
 I guess I'll need a box when I'm working with a pcb in a different project.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Wiggyx you don't happen to have replacement shells for a neogeo pocket color? I went into the store on your site but ewhen I click the other portable link it asks for a password
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Is this the url you're trying to reach?

http://rosecoloredgaming.com/portables.html

It's working for me on both the full and mobile versions :/

There is no "portables" section on the blog at this point, so I'm not sure what you're trying to access there.

Also, no replacement NGP shells.  Sorry :(

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Aw dang I need one. Do you know anywhere that has them. I got mine off Craigslist and its missing both battery covers and is dingy pink lol.
 
Fudge! I got one of those cheap AVR programmers you recommended but the program can't seem to communicate to it, giving me:

target doesn't answer all the time. What's the trick to these things?

I did install the USBASP driver manually.

Is this how I should have wired the board assuming:

avrtargetboards_1.jpg


avrtargetboards_2.jpg


so it leads to this:

AwxCxwb.jpg


Do have have to modify the actual programmer or do I have to use an older firmware?

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'm using the Sainsmart USBASP programmer like on Amazon. Managed to flash it to the 2009 firmware, as for some reason the 2011 won't do. I followed instructions and soldered the J3 jumper for slow clock speed.

I'm trying to program a Attiny2313-20PU.

I'm using AVR DUDE.

I typed in the usual

avrdude -c usbasp -p t2313
Click to expand...
and all I get is the default:

cannot set sck

AND
target doesn't answer 1.

Did I wire the board incorrectly or does this thing have a beef with weaker mcus?

I did order the Sparkfun one last week to be be safe, after pulling my hair for the past week.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Maybe I should put some red LEDs in my restored NES. Something that'll only show up in the vents and if I leave the door open. That'd be kinda neat, I think. :)

 
Wiggyx. 

Saw on rosegaming the button tutorial. I was wondering if that works for Xbox 360/PS3 analog sticks or are they made out of different material? 

 
Mako1215 said:
Wiggyx.

Saw on rosegaming the button tutorial. I was wondering if that works for Xbox 360/PS3 analog sticks or are they made out of different material?
Click to expand...
Nothing is made of the materials that I cast with, and you can't cast ABS (which is what controller parts are most often made from). For something like the 360 sticks, I'd use a harder material like polyester resin.

detectiveconan16 said:
I'm using the Sainsmart USBASP programmer like on Amazon. Managed to flash it to the 2009 firmware, as for some reason the 2011 won't do. I followed instructions and soldered the J3 jumper for slow clock speed.

I'm trying to program a Attiny2313-20PU.

I'm using AVR DUDE.

I typed in the usual

and all I get is the default:

cannot set sck

AND
target doesn't answer 1.

Did I wire the board incorrectly or does this thing have a beef with weaker mcus?

I did order the Sparkfun one last week to be be safe, after pulling my hair for the past week.
Click to expand...
You got me. This sort of thing is not my forte. Sorry :(

So, I have been able to squeeze a minute or two in on personal projects once in a while :)

null_zps932f4c29.jpg


null_zps9ad69af1.jpg


null_zpsac7a40f7.jpg


null_zpsb5d1656f.jpg


null_zpse5f1552c.jpg


 
Holy crap, Wiggyx you rock! You oughta try making a SNES D-pad that fits a PSP like that video on youtube. Like combining the base of a PSP dpad with the top of a SNES dpad. All one needs is wire cutters for that cross, and it's goodbye to Sony sh-ty controls.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
You must log in or register to reply here.
bread's done
Back
Top