Cables and service not currently available. Sorry.
Frustrated with the lack of Gamecube connectivity for the GameBoy Micro? This thread will show you how to restore that functionality. No modifications on the GameBoy Micro itself are necessary, only of the cable to link the Micro and the Gamecube. For this you will need:
1) An Official Nintendo Game Boy Micro Game Link Cable.
2) Any Gameboy Advance to Gamecube Link Cable. The directions below show how to use the following link cables:
- Official Nintendo Gamecube to Game Boy Advance Connector Cable
- Nyko CubeLink cable (No longer available)
- MadCatz SystemLink cable (For both GCN & GBA connectivity via the GBM)
3) Soldering skills
Cable Service Information
I offer a cable building service if you do not feel you have the soldering skills necessary to build a cable. Unfortunately I cannot supply the cables myself. For the service you must send me the official Nintendo Gameboy Micro Link Cable and any GC->GBA Link Cable. I charge $20 for the service, which includes return shipping. The final cable will have the electronics enclosed in a small project box, the same box you can see in the photos here. I am sorry but I cannot source the cables for international orders anymore. Send me a Private Message if you are interested.Official Nintendo Gamecube to Game Boy Advance Connector Cable Directions
(My preferred method)
(My preferred method)
First step is to cut the GameBoy Micro Link Cable next to the connector box, strip the shielding, and strip/tin the wires. Only the RED, BLUE, and ORANGE wires are necessary, along with the ground shield. You should be left with something like this:

Please note that I've only stripped the wires a tiny bit. You'll see why in the next photo.
Now, solder the wires onto the GC->GBA cables as shown, taking great care not to short any pins together. When I do these cables, I connect the ground shield to the left "post" on the circuitboard, then bridge it to pin 6 with some solder as you can see in the photo.

After you've finished this, you can try to stuff it back into the GC connector housing. If you do, be sure to cover your work with electrical tape and provide some strain relief on the cable. I end up using a small project box to enclose the electronics.
Nyko CubeLink Directions

I don't have any fancy pictures for this method but it should be self-explanatory. The completed cable is shown above.
First, cut the GBA end from the Nyko cable and cut one of the two Micro cables at the central "hub". Strip the wires so you can wrap them and make a nice solid connection. The wires link like this:
Nyko Cable -> Micro Cable
Black -> Wire shielding
Orange -> Green
Brown -> Brown
Green -> Orange
Blue -> Red
White -> Blue
Wrap everything up with electrical tape making sure that none of the wires touch another, or use heat-shrink tubing. I wrapped each individual wire with electrical tape and then carefully placed all of them in the shielding that I grabbed from the Nyko cable. I used small zip ties on the cables to decrease the stress on the solder joints in case the cable is pulled. Everything is contained in the shield on the right.
It's been a very long time since I've come across this cable. It's possible that only the RED, BLUE, ORANGE, and ground shielding wires are needed from the GameBoy Micro Link Cable. If I ever run into one of these again, I'll test it and post the results
MadCatz System Link
This method is very similar to using the Official Nintendo GBA->GC cable except it uses more wires to provide the additional GBA connectivity.
The rest will be coming soon...
Old method for the Official Nintendo Cable
First step is to procure the cable you’ll use to connect the two Nintendo cables we’re going to hack. You need a cable with at least 6 wires in it. I ended up cutting an old Playstation controller extension cord I had lying around. I was never using it since I use mostly wireless controllers now, plus it was cheap.
Next step is to open up both of the Nintendo cables. The Gamecube cable has two screws to unscrew and then needs to be pulled apart carefully. You don’t want to break the tabs holding the casing together so be careful. The same goes for the GB Micro cable. You need to unscrew the two screws then carefully pry apart the two sides.
Follow the diagram above for the connection points. These are fairly tiny spots that you need to solder to so take your time and plan ahead. I’ll admit that my solder jobs aren’t the greatest, as you can see, but they get the job done.
I needed to scrape away some of the plastic on the Gamecube connector as shown here:
When putting the connector back together I used a few cable ties, as you can see in the bottom of the picture above, to prevent stress on the solder joints from when the cable gets pulled. I also wrapped two on the cable as seen below.
For the GB Micro cable, I needed to drill a new hole in the plastic case. I drilled it just a little smaller than the new cable since I needed the cable held by friction. There is no extra room here for cable ties so the friction will have to do to help prevent the solder joints from being stressed.
Next step is to open up both of the Nintendo cables. The Gamecube cable has two screws to unscrew and then needs to be pulled apart carefully. You don’t want to break the tabs holding the casing together so be careful. The same goes for the GB Micro cable. You need to unscrew the two screws then carefully pry apart the two sides.

Follow the diagram above for the connection points. These are fairly tiny spots that you need to solder to so take your time and plan ahead. I’ll admit that my solder jobs aren’t the greatest, as you can see, but they get the job done.


I needed to scrape away some of the plastic on the Gamecube connector as shown here:

When putting the connector back together I used a few cable ties, as you can see in the bottom of the picture above, to prevent stress on the solder joints from when the cable gets pulled. I also wrapped two on the cable as seen below.

For the GB Micro cable, I needed to drill a new hole in the plastic case. I drilled it just a little smaller than the new cable since I needed the cable held by friction. There is no extra room here for cable ties so the friction will have to do to help prevent the solder joints from being stressed.

Thanks to UncleBob for pushing me to start this and CheapyD for locating supplies for the first batch of cables back when I started this.
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