A little late to the party, but I'll give some of my random thoughts. I'm level 38 at the moment and have mostly been running around doing sidequests and a little plot.
I like the smithing (Though with the leveling system as it is, seems too....easy), alchemy, and enchanting (Sooo much less annoying). Cooking feels like it was supposed to have a skill. As it is, is kind of useless but was fun to play with until I realized that.
Too easy! I am playing on normal but I feel like a physical god. I tend to build my characters melee, especially on a first playthrough and I've been putting 100% of levels into health and choosing perks for damage and defense, but geez. Earlier today I felt like raising my block so I stood there tanking hits from a giant until I raised my block about 15 points, got bored and continued on my way. Magic can hurt me, but it's only a matter of time until I enchant all my gear to be resist magic. I'm waiting until my enchant skill is high enough to bother.
I like that enemies have a level range now, leveling with you was stupid but I don't think they went far enough in this direction. Early on it was cool that was there stuff I just couldn't beat, but eventually....see above.
Lost of character classes. I thought this would bother me, but the way skills are done, it ends up not really mattering. I just wish there were more of them (skills).
Magic is a pain to use. I hate the system and only use it when I'm looking to raise a few skills.
The story and general atmosphere is MUCH improved from Oblivion. The atmosphere is one area that has blown away Daggerfall and Morrowind. I love the random snippets of conversation, random comments based on the state of your character, etc. The outdoors looks beautiful.
Humans looks a little less....disturbing but for some reason Bethesda still can't make a decent human face.
Werewolf feels tacked on and fairly useless. Haven't tried vampire.
In general still feels massively dumbed down Daggerfall/Morrowind.
No stats. This fills me with more rage than I can describe. If we keep heading in this direction the next one will be a fantasy style FPS and not an RPG anymore....
Despite the complaints I am enjoying Skyrim. I can get lost for days of playtime not doing the main plot and that's always a good sign to me. I do fear that the replayability is going to be limited but I am enjoying the ride while it lasts.