Was bored, did mod.

I've recently started to play more of my PSP, due to my sudden interest in Front Mission 3, and I'm wondering if anybody attempted to 3D print faceplate for it. It would be very handy especially when you want to do some button mods, and to deal with the crappy Dpad. But lo and behold this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLxfY2Cpzos

But I'd rather use a spare SNES dpad since I only have two SNES controllers.
 
[quote name='wiggyx']Sorry, should have asked this before, are you using an LCD or CRT tele?![/QUOTE]
It's clear as day on an LCD, can't notice it on the CRT (probably because of the comb filter) but my CRT may be going.
 
Hey Wiggy. Do you need guts of handhelds for your mods? I see all forms of gameboys for under $5 each, but they are usually missing the battery cover or have scratched screens. I know I joked about being your supplier, but I can pick up stuff like that, if you could give them new life.
 
I really need GBAs more than anything. Lens makes no difference since I replace almost all of them with a glass version and I have a stack of battery covers :)

So, yeah, if you can find 'em then I'll GLADLY take em!
 
[quote name='wiggyx']I really need GBAs more than anything. Lens makes no difference since I replace almost all of them with a glass version and I have a stack of battery covers :)

So, yeah, if you can find 'em then I'll GLADLY take em![/QUOTE]

Ok, I will start picking them up! Yeah, GBAs seem to be the ones I see most often, followed by GBA SP, and gameboy color.

Oh and if you have any plans for n64 shells let me know...I think I have at least 15-18 of them last count. ;)
 
Wood will be tough. The only way to actually make one from wood would be a) hand build, 2) CNC, or 3) do a veneer over the plastic parts, which obviously wouldn't be solid wood, but at least I could use a really nice REAL veneer and not the cheap shit that is applied to every goddamned piece of shitty Wal-Fart shelving out there.

Oops, got a bit rant-y for a second there :p
 
A few years back I built myself a a custom computer desk out of particle board. The thing is solid as hell, but since it's particle board it's also kinda ugly. Couldn't stain it as it has no wood pattern, so I painted it. What I had wanted to do was the use some sort of vinyl or even real wood veneer, but the guys at Lowes here couldn't help me with that. One day I'll probably do another desk, but I'd really like to know where to get something nice to cover the particle board.
 
[quote name='wiggyx']Veener. Home stores should have it, and if not, hobby and craft shops are a good bet :)[/QUOTE]
Places like Hobby Lobby? Never seen anything like that there. I remember the guy at Lowes suggesting wood grain pattern shelf lining paper, yeah....no.
 
[quote name='guinaevere']I forgive you. she's very fortunate to have such a creative and talented hunny.

PMing you a mod-related question.[/QUOTE]

Thank you. She agrees with you (most of the time).

Got the PM. I'll get back to you ASAP.

[quote name='detectiveconan16']The real Ms. Wiggy has the patience of a saint, letting him stay up at all hours of the night.[/QUOTE]

And that's the other post of the time LOL! Luckily most of the work and whatnot that I do is pretty quiet. The Dremel and bandsaw are pretty much the only things that are off-limits once about 9pm hits :p

[quote name='Clak']Places like Hobby Lobby? Never seen anything like that there. I remember the guy at Lowes suggesting wood grain pattern shelf lining paper, yeah....no.[/QUOTE]

The guy at Lowe's should take his head out of his butt and learn to search his store and the consumer site for his customers.

http://www.lowes.com/Lumber/Wood-Composite-PVC-Boards/Wood-Veneer-Edging/_/N-1z10t25/pl

Hobby Lobby will likely have veneers, but not likely in the sizes that you'll need. As it is, you'll most likely have to piecemeal it together with strips of stuff not wider than 24". But that's fine. That's how actual wood-top desk are built (in laminated planks), so no issues there.

Something that I didn't think about before is Luan plywood. A 1/4" sheet won't add much thinkness to the desk and then you can just veneer around the perimeter to cover the particleboard and plywood edge.
 
Huh, yeah this is exactly what I needed basically.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_46871-99899...rentURL=?Ns=p_product_avg_rating|1&facetInfo=

Nobody I asked seemed to think they had anything remotely like that. But yeah, I had seen the thin sheets of Luan and had given thought to it, it's just this thing is already so big and heavy I didn't want to add any more weight to it. See, it sits upstairs in an unused bedroom/my "office", it was built in the room, and it didn't dawn on me that one day I might want to remove it....lol. Getting this thing down stairs is not an option, so if I replace it I'll be breaking it apart to get it out. I'd actually take a pic if it wasn't such a mess right now.
 
Always design things to be dismantled in the future. Or at least, that's how I go about my construction projects. If I had designed my arcade cabinet to be one solid chunk, I would never have been able to move it around. (the thing is seven feet tall and several hundred pounds) Thanks to the initial design, it can be dismantled into chunks no more than a few feet across, and I've managed to move it all sorts of places.

Particle board can be fantastic for construction. It's decently durable as long as you can keep it dry, and its a lot easier to work with than many other materials. It can be a challenge to decorate it after the fact. Always make sure you think your projects out ahead of time and approach them with a logical plan. It helps you avoid situations like this down the line.
 
I just saw that earlier! Pretty cool!

I just wish it wasn't so, um, homely :/ I'd love to design cases for some of the stuff he does. He's got the mega ninja engineering skills, but the aesthetic leaves a bit to be desired...


So, moved into the new office today finally. In true wiggy fashion, new shelves went up ASAP! This setup will hold like everything I'll ever need for the business!

AE62DCE2-A8BE-45B0-9693-51B01CC8AA67-1155-000000C8F8450D62_zps4829108f.jpg
 
I can't even color between the lines. :\
I'm thinking about hacking a PS1 controller, M-type digital, and I'm a little trepidatious about it considering I fried the H type. I paid $6 for both, but I wonder if there are any tips. Is adding flux to the board a big tip?
 
[quote name='wiggyx']If you can solder, cut a straight line with an Xacto blade, and can effectively use Windex, then you're hired![/QUOTE]


My Windex skills are somewhat lacking, but I have the other two covered.

Strell managed to keep me from unleashing Skynet on the world again, so he probably thinks he's got the one up on me, but he doesn't.
 
[quote name='wiggyx']If you can solder, cut a straight line with an Xacto blade, and can effectively use Windex, then you're hired![/QUOTE]
I'll have to work on my soldering. I can get by just fine with gas and arc welding, but I don't yet feel particularly comfortable with a soldering iron.
 
LOL! I think you all qualify. My secretary will be in touch :p

[quote name='detectiveconan16']I can't even color between the lines. :\
I'm thinking about hacking a PS1 controller, M-type digital, and I'm a little trepidatious about it considering I fried the H type. I paid $6 for both, but I wonder if there are any tips. Is adding flux to the board a big tip?[/QUOTE]

Flux is always a big help. Lead solder is WAY easier to work with as well. If you end up using lead-free, then flux is an absolute MUST. What exactly is this mod you speak of?


So, the shelving is filling up. The office/studio is pretty much up-and-running now :D I can finally get back to actual work now.

DSC03649_zpsea64f35f.jpg
 
[quote name='blindinglights']Strell managed to keep me from unleashing Skynet on the world again, so he probably thinks he's got the one up on me, but he doesn't.[/QUOTE]

Sounds like SOMEONE has already been infected by the machines.
 
I did it, almost. I couldn't get the solder to stick to the L1 and start contact, even after flux. How does one get solder to stay on a pcb? A little kynar wire allowed me to fix the Start easily, but L1 is gone. Oh well, 14/15 isn't bad.
 
The secret is getting both the wire and contact patch up to about the same temp. You may need to clean the tip a bit or just apply heat for a tad longer.
 
Did that, and the copper plate snapped off. Sigh. Oh well I'm stuck using:
Square Triangle L2 R1
X Circle R1
Plus directions and starts

Still, the games I'll be playing will be 6 button games, and easily configurable on the option screen. I should've gotten a hot glue gun anyway. Shrug.
 
Yeah, but it won't stay unless I use some fine wire, which is a pain the butt. The 30AWGstuck to the trace, I'm glad it worked. Maybe a hobby drill will make it easier next time, since I can stick it into a hole and solder it.
 
[quote name='detectiveconan16']Yeah, but it won't stay unless I use some fine wire, which is a pain the butt. The 30AWGstuck to the trace, I'm glad it worked. Maybe a hobby drill will make it easier next time, since I can stick it into a hole and solder it.[/QUOTE]

Try a 15W for the super tiny stuff. 30W might just be enough to lift pads/traces.

[quote name='KillerRamen']White Sega Saturn... :drool:[/QUOTE]

To be fair, it's a cheater (I.e. I painted it to be a JP clone for a buddy that I'm eventually going to trade off to him).
 
I'd love to see a Red Saturn, but I'd sooner see a Red Dreamcast. :)
Have you ever had one controller port not work, while the others do? That's what's going on with one of my units. One of these days, I'm going have to pop that sucker open and replace the resistors, and the fan. I'm not sure what type of fan it uses though.
 
So I really haven't been on CAG much over the past year or so, and today I ended up popping in. Found this thread, realized that I only read the first 2 pages back when I was still around, and then proceeded to go through the rest of the thread throughout the day. You're doing some pretty awesome stuff, Wiggy! I'll definitely be trying to keep up with the goings-on in the thread now.
 
Well thank you!


So I made a batch of Retrobright for a customer's Wonderswan the other day. I was skeptical, but I'm a believer now, needless to say :)

beforeandafter_zps5735d32b.jpg
 
The DC controller ports SUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK!

Super finicky. I made a little cleaner for them a while back that helps a LOT, but doesn't solve the problem of their crummy design. Lemme dig it out and snap pics/do a write-up.
 
Very nice! I've been planning to clean some of my older consoles with retrobright once the weather gets a bit nicer. It's great to see that you had such great results on that Wonderswan!
 
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