GBM link cable
Any advice on how to figure that out?
Edited by Shadow_Zero, 08 July 2012 - 02:56 PM.
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Posted 08 July 2012 - 02:44 PM
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Posted 11 May 2013 - 07:22 PM
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Posted 13 May 2013 - 08:26 PM
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Posted 06 June 2013 - 02:31 PM
I'd love to open my cable and take a look - but unfortunately, it hasn't arrived yet. I also think I still have an original cable so I could compare them.
For some reason the seller also offers bundles of 10 or even >50 of these cables. Either there really is a new production site (seems rather idiotic without that much demand) or he has gotten hold of some forgotten Nintendo storage hall.
Thanks for the pictures. This really looks a lot like the "official" cables I remember - it even has an IC. There are five "regular" wires. I guess, the sixth one is GND. The orange one could be SerialIn (it's connected to GND on the "right" side).
I still wonder what the IC is for - Master/Slave seems to be fixed. You might also note that only one of the plugs could be used to cascade - the other one has this additional plastic (and therefore should be slave). I'm not sure whether the original cables have this, too - need to check when I get home.
If you take this apart, you might want to keep the plug and build a breakout-box - this makes testing and soldering other cables a lot easier! Or you could build an adapter from "classic" GBA-plug to "GBM"..
PS: I see that you added a screenshot of my page to your photos. At first I was surprised and not too excited about it, but I agree that it makes sense there - people who look at the pictures might find that table helpful.
Still, would you mind adding a reference to my page or this thread so that people can find more information on this project?
Update: It seems like I don't have such a cable left. I still had one of those "middle" boxes (just desoldered the cables) and it looks exactly like your pictures. So I guess those are original cables - or new ones built exactly like the old ones.
I still don't know about the IC. It seems like this is a KS125 from Texas Instruments (http://www.ti.com/li...n74cb3t3125.pdf) - a component with four switches (connects two pins if a third pin says so).
Still it would be wired strangely if it is.Voltage seems to be disconnected, 2A and 2B are connected to GND - but it can be switched whether they can be connected to each other...
Maybe it switches off the 3P-Plug if there is no cable.. Or it is used for voltage translation - ensuring that even serveral cables the voltage still stays okay. I never had much trouble without it.
Posted 16 June 2013 - 10:00 PM
There are other Chinese/Hong Kong eBay sellers with the cable. Hard to tell if some distributor found some old batches or some manufacturer decided to produce them again. In any case we can't complain
And wonder o wonder, the Myspace photo transfer from the old to the new site seems to have succeeded. So I can still use them. But I don't seem to be able to share the album now, ugh -_- (and the layout and interface is sooooooooo horrible now!)
Ok, didn't know "cascading" was "daisy-chaining". And interesting to know the plastic is for 'blocking' the daisy-chain connection, so people connect the 1P side. Kinda odd Nintendo didn't put any textual hint on the cable, like various 3rd party cables saying "1P".
I think we already verified I have the 'neue' GC link cable. Here are some pics:
So according to your scheme that's:
Red (1) = GND = GBA pin 6
Brown (3) = Serial Out = GBA pin 2
Blue (5) = Serial In = GBA pin 3
White (6) = Power = GBA pin 1
I have to get a proper multimeter first to verify the 'official' GBM cable wires.
I think these were the images of Troz1820:
You're saying blue = gba pin 1, red = gba pin 2, orange = gba pin 3?
(seems to add up to Troz1820's photo).
And again, much appreciated for all your input TCCPhreak. You're a hero!
Posted 30 July 2013 - 01:06 PM
Hey Shadow Zero. Thanks. I did follow that, but I was still screwing up. I'm gonna try some other things soon. I'll stick to using the GBA cables board. I had the purple wire which I now realise is the host players cable desoldered from that. I should try the other one and see if that works.
I have no idea what side of the micro lead is the host and which is the second player though. bah. Doubt the wires will differ though.
Just to let everyone know, If I can figure this one out, I'll be posting my method and pictures of it all.
Also, a gentleman I found who had done this before (shockslayer on twitter) claimed the "si from one goes into the so of the other, and the others SI goes to ground" But my brain utterly fails with logic, and mapping everything out always leads me in circles.
At the end of the day, I have a gameboy micro in blue, and gorgeous, backlit ags-100 that I've customized... and I'm looking to trade some pokemon :P Gamecube wise, I can connect my backlit sp to my normal cable and be happy.
and this seems to be the gba cables colours
Posted 19 August 2013 - 10:06 AM
I've never used the GBM link functionality, so I have no experience there. I can only quote what TCCPhreak has said in this topic:
So the part with the little extension should be the master side. It doesn't matter for Gamecube linking, but at this point I don't know if it matters for GBM/GBA linking.
Posted 28 September 2015 - 02:32 AM
Digging this thread up from the grave for ol' times sake, and in honor of Tri Force Heroes coming out next month!
So, I decided to attempt this mod with little hardware knowledge (I'm a software engineer by trade) and without having ever soldered before.
I followed the steps from the OP but I used this link instead because the OPs images were broken, but seeing as the OP was posted 10 YEARS ago I guess it's understandable. =P
I happened to already have an original GCN to GBA cable, but I had to order the GBM to GBM link cable. This is the one I bought on eBay (in case the eBay link ever goes down, this is what it looked like).
The first warning sign that I shouldn't be attempting this mod comes from my shitty pocket knife splicing job.
Next up was my makeshift workstation where I practiced soldering for all of 10 minutes on an old router I sacrificed to the cause.
Prepare yourself, for you are about to witness the worst soldering you have ever seen in your entire life.
I'm not sure if my soldering iron is just shitty (it's this $20 from Amazon) but this is like 2+ hours later...
At this point I was like, " it, let's just see what happens."
Holy shit, it worked!
I still need to create a better housing, but for now this'll do. Maybe a good candidate for any of you with 3d printers (*cough* if someone wants to print one for me in exchange for $$$ *cough*)
I hope you enjoyed my deep dive into soldering and maybe this'll inspire some of you to go out there and give it a shot! Now time for some Four Swords!!
EDIT: Here's an album of all the images.