CAG Arcade Stick Thread

Status
Not open for further replies.
You can make your TE look like whatever you want. Just change the art and the buttons. Dying the plastic bezel is a little harder to do, but the art and buttons stand out the most anyway.
 
[quote name='dizzlle01']Is a ps one namco stick worth $30. I saw it today at a pawn shop and was wondering how is that stick. Is it hard modding that stick.[/QUOTE]
Well worth the $30. That is easily one of the best sticks ever. I don't think modding it is too hard either.
 
[quote name='djbooba']Well worth the $30. That is easily one of the best sticks ever. I don't think modding it is too hard either.[/QUOTE]

Are the button holes already 30mm or it requires a dremel. And does it use quick disconnect
 
[quote name='dizzlle01']Are the button holes already 30mm or it requires a dremel. And does it use quick disconnect[/QUOTE]

The button holes are already 30mm, but it uses a soldered on PCB. So if you don't mind desoldering it, or just trashing it, then the buttons just pop right in, Mounting a different stick takes a lot more work, but it's not hard to fit a JLF in there. Also, it's cramped, so don't try to cram a big PCB in there. Here's the inside of mine currently.

NamcoInsides.jpg

It's seriously great stock, so try it out before you do mod it. But if you want to, then there are guides on the internet, or you can ask me questions.
 
[quote name='dizzlle01']Is a ps one namco stick worth $30. I saw it today at a pawn shop and was wondering how is that stick. Is it hard modding that stick.[/QUOTE]

I sold mine a few months back for $90 on eBay, which is crazy cause I was only expecting $30-$40 and I started the auction at $1.
 
[quote name='Taboner']Really? I've been hearing the HRAPEX is a bit better.[/QUOTE]

Setups about the same, no sanwa buttons on the hrap though, and its not common ground which means you won't be able to dual mod it.
 
[quote name='heavyd853']Setups about the same, no sanwa buttons on the hrap though, and its not common ground which means you won't be able to dual mod it.[/QUOTE]

Pretty much, plug the JLF on the TE is a real JLF, while the JLF on the HRAP EX is a ghetto JLF, still works pretty well though, if you aren't picky.
 
Did they ever come out with a fix of some sort to get the PS3 Standard Ed. Fight sticks to work on PC? I know several SRK'ers have complained about the issue, I picked one up used and can't get it to work on my PC.
 
[quote name='ZForce']Did they ever come out with a fix of some sort to get the PS3 Standard Ed. Fight sticks to work on PC? I know several SRK'ers have complained about the issue, I picked one up used and can't get it to work on my PC.[/QUOTE]

I've read that they only support UHCI compliant USB ports, basically Intel and VIA based chipsets. If you don't have that, you'd have to buy a USB card that does, usually around $10. Any VIA based card will work.

And I would buy that VSHG in an instant if I had money to burn. Perhaps you would want to trade some things for it?
 
[quote name='o2012o']I have no idea how much to sell my High Grade stick for. I just saw these two forums, but I figured I'd ask fellow CAGs for advice.

http://forums.hardwarezone.com.sg/showthread.php?t=2327597

http://forums.gameaxis.com/showthread.php?t=1515753

That seems awful high, right? The stick is in perfect condition and has the box.[/QUOTE]

Not too high, its one of the best retail sticks ever made. It did have some issues early on with the pcb and multiple inputs at the same time but otherwise its perfect.

You could probably get 120 out of it in a flash.
 
I just found out one of my wireless 360 pads is common ground. I would love to wire this into my SFAC stick. I found this diagram:

360_diagram7.jpg


few questions:

1) why is 3.3v in yellow, why would i need that for?

2) Y and Back buttons are the only 2 buttons with ground circled, so i use the Back ground for the joystick and the Y ground for all the other buttons?

3) Whats RC and LC?

4) Why does RT have a pink circle ontop of the signal?

5) What does it mean exactly with triggers to neutral, to let them sit there with the triggers out all the way?
 
[quote name='o2012o']I wonder when they last had it in stock... hmmm. So if I can get this guy to buy it at 90, that shouldn't be too bad.[/QUOTE]

I would straight up buy it for that, man!!! I need some money. . .
 
[quote name='blitz6speed']I just found out one of my wireless 360 pads is common ground. I would love to wire this into my SFAC stick. I found this diagram:

360_diagram7.jpg


few questions:

1) why is 3.3v in yellow, why would i need that for?

2) Y and Back buttons are the only 2 buttons with ground circled, so i use the Back ground for the joystick and the Y ground for all the other buttons?

3) Whats RC and LC?

4) Why does RT have a pink circle ontop of the signal?

5) What does it mean exactly with triggers to neutral, to let them sit there with the triggers out all the way?[/QUOTE]

Hey, I have that controller! I'm gonna have to put it in my HRAP3, if I can find a guide. Anyone have one?
 
Hahaha. Well, if this doesn't pan out, I'll let you know. Guy responds to emails so slow...

[quote name='hankmecrankme']I would straight up buy it for that, man!!! I need some money. . .[/QUOTE]
 
[quote name='o2012o']Hahaha. Well, if this doesn't pan out, I'll let you know. Guy responds to emails so slow...[/QUOTE]

Time to sell my copy of Xenogears then. ;)
 
[quote name='hankmecrankme']Pretty much, plug the JLF on the TE is a real JLF, while the JLF on the HRAP EX is a ghetto JLF, still works pretty well though, if you aren't picky.[/QUOTE]
what the heck is a ghetto JLF?

JLF is JLF, right?
 
[quote name='kainzero']what the heck is a ghetto JLF?

JLF is JLF, right?[/QUOTE]

It's ghetto because instead of using the PCB like a normal JLF, they used 4 individual switches in it, and they are looser than a normal JLF. Looser as in, they move around a bit when you hit them. It just feels off, not terrible or anything, but not as good as a real deal PCB based JLF.

That's why I'm throwing an LS 32 in mine. :)
 
blitz:

1) You could use the 3.3v to power something else... an LED, another PCB, and so on.

2) If it's a single common PCB, you only need to connect to one of those "ground" points for all the buttons, IF the board truly has a single common (more on that at the end)

3) L3 and R3, clicking the analogs in. Look at where they are in relation to the analog sticks on the other side of the board, it'll make sense.

4) Because triggers cannot simply be shorted to common to work. They use variable resistors, and will require knowledge of the circuit and/or additional resistors to get it working with a standard arcade pushbutton.

5) This ties into 4. If you're going to leave the triggers intact, the trigger needs to be seen as "disengaged" to the 360. If you remove all the trigger plastic (VERY difficult on a Microsoft pad), you are still left with a soldered potentiometer. From here, you have options, depending on what you need/how lazy you are. You could set it to wherever it was at when the trigger mechanism wasn't pressed, you could set it there and hot-glue it in place, or you could remove it and use resistors to imitate that "neutral" setting on the potentiometer.

Okay, with all that said, if you don't have a multimeter, get one, and test these commons yourself. I am grateful to slagcoin for all his diagrams, but I have found some of them to be wrong, and it's best to do your own testing anyway. If the board has a single common, all the common points should all show the same level of continuity when you test between them.

Also, if you're thinking of using the triggers, be VERY careful removing them. It is VERY easy to break the transistors off of a 360 PCB, which will ruin the board's functionality. Soldering them back on is pretty futile, because the copper will usually be pulled off the board as well. Yes, I've done it, and I'm stupid. Removing them entirely will probably mean carefully cutting them away.
 
[quote name='hankmecrankme']It's ghetto because instead of using the PCB like a normal JLF, they used 4 individual switches in it, and they are looser than a normal JLF. Looser as in, they move around a bit when you hit them. It just feels off, not terrible or anything, but not as good as a real deal PCB based JLF.

That's why I'm throwing an LS 32 in mine. :)[/QUOTE]
i never knew that

i guess i learn things everyday

hopefully the HRAP EX SE isn't like that. then i can have a better 4 way than the rhombus JLF.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
bread's done
Back
Top