CAG Arcade Stick Thread

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[quote name='schwartzvald']blitz:

1) You could use the 3.3v to power something else... an LED, another PCB, and so on.

2) If it's a single common PCB, you only need to connect to one of those "ground" points for all the buttons, IF the board truly has a single common (more on that at the end)

3) L3 and R3, clicking the analogs in. Look at where they are in relation to the analog sticks on the other side of the board, it'll make sense.

4) Because triggers cannot simply be shorted to common to work. They use variable resistors, and will require knowledge of the circuit and/or additional resistors to get it working with a standard arcade pushbutton.

5) This ties into 4. If you're going to leave the triggers intact, the trigger needs to be seen as "disengaged" to the 360. If you remove all the trigger plastic (VERY difficult on a Microsoft pad), you are still left with a soldered potentiometer. From here, you have options, depending on what you need/how lazy you are. You could set it to wherever it was at when the trigger mechanism wasn't pressed, you could set it there and hot-glue it in place, or you could remove it and use resistors to imitate that "neutral" setting on the potentiometer.

Okay, with all that said, if you don't have a multimeter, get one, and test these commons yourself. I am grateful to slagcoin for all his diagrams, but I have found some of them to be wrong, and it's best to do your own testing anyway. If the board has a single common, all the common points should all show the same level of continuity when you test between them.

Also, if you're thinking of using the triggers, be VERY careful removing them. It is VERY easy to break the transistors off of a 360 PCB, which will ruin the board's functionality. Soldering them back on is pretty futile, because the copper will usually be pulled off the board as well. Yes, I've done it, and I'm stupid. Removing them entirely will probably mean carefully cutting them away.[/QUOTE]

I'm a little confused on all this. Would I solder the buttons to the 360 pcb, or would I solder the 360 pcb to the HRAP3 pcb?
 
Anyone know anything about a stick company called Joytron. Its a Korean stick. Never played on one but kinda interested in grabbing the KoFXII stick.
 
[quote name='o2012o']Man.. craigslist people are cheap. Some guy offered me 70 for it and I considered it. Thanks![/QUOTE]

I would take it for 70 if u consider it. I live in los angeles
 
The lack of a PCB on the JLF variety Hori uses is not exactly "ghetto" - the housing is designed to accommodate the switches with or without a PCB, and without altering the physical dimensions of the lever at all. If you find the PCB-less JLF to have loose switches (and frankly, unless you've managed to dent or warp the plastic housing somehow, you should never notice the difference), that's Sanwa's design flaw, not Hori's.

For people doing stick mods with non-common PCBs, I even suggest going PCB-less rather than scratching out circuits on a perfectly good PCB. Amazingly, when I bought a Mayflash to use as a modding base, I found the stock microswitches on the lever were individually wired Omrons... too bad I'm going LS-32 instead of JLF =p
 
[quote name='StarCreator']The lack of a PCB on the JLF variety Hori uses is not exactly "ghetto" - the housing is designed to accommodate the switches with or without a PCB, and without altering the physical dimensions of the lever at all. If you find the PCB-less JLF to have loose switches (and frankly, unless you've managed to dent or warp the plastic housing somehow, you should never notice the difference), that's Sanwa's design flaw, not Hori's.

For people doing stick mods with non-common PCBs, I even suggest going PCB-less rather than scratching out circuits on a perfectly good PCB. Amazingly, when I bought a Mayflash to use as a modding base, I found the stock microswitches on the lever were individually wired Omrons... too bad I'm going LS-32 instead of JLF =p[/QUOTE]

I didn't say it was all Hori's fault with the shitty stick, just their usage of a non common ground PCB, so they had to go that route. It's mostly on Sanwa's shoulders, and, like I said, it's not terrible or bad or anything, just a bit off. The overall feel doesn't feel like my 4 other JLFs that all have switch mounted PCBs. It's definitely not as good as those "real" JLFs, but maybe I'm just too picky. Doesn't matter, because I'm throwing an LS-32 in mine, and I've got my SFIV TE with the real deal JLF in it.

Also, I just bought the VSHG from o2012o, so that's one more for my collection. I've always wanted one. :D
 
Looks like Mad Catz is going to put together a Wii stick for TvC. Here's a mock up using a PS3 stick. Obviously going to be using a SFIV SE chassis.

504x_7c401c9461465d84bd18fd29d5dfad09.jpg
 
[quote name='schwartzvald']blitz:

1) You could use the 3.3v to power something else... an LED, another PCB, and so on.

2) If it's a single common PCB, you only need to connect to one of those "ground" points for all the buttons, IF the board truly has a single common (more on that at the end)

3) L3 and R3, clicking the analogs in. Look at where they are in relation to the analog sticks on the other side of the board, it'll make sense.

4) Because triggers cannot simply be shorted to common to work. They use variable resistors, and will require knowledge of the circuit and/or additional resistors to get it working with a standard arcade pushbutton.

5) This ties into 4. If you're going to leave the triggers intact, the trigger needs to be seen as "disengaged" to the 360. If you remove all the trigger plastic (VERY difficult on a Microsoft pad), you are still left with a soldered potentiometer. From here, you have options, depending on what you need/how lazy you are. You could set it to wherever it was at when the trigger mechanism wasn't pressed, you could set it there and hot-glue it in place, or you could remove it and use resistors to imitate that "neutral" setting on the potentiometer.

Okay, with all that said, if you don't have a multimeter, get one, and test these commons yourself. I am grateful to slagcoin for all his diagrams, but I have found some of them to be wrong, and it's best to do your own testing anyway. If the board has a single common, all the common points should all show the same level of continuity when you test between them.

Also, if you're thinking of using the triggers, be VERY careful removing them. It is VERY easy to break the transistors off of a 360 PCB, which will ruin the board's functionality. Soldering them back on is pretty futile, because the copper will usually be pulled off the board as well. Yes, I've done it, and I'm stupid. Removing them entirely will probably mean carefully cutting them away.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the info! I am weary of using the triggers, so i may just not bother soldering them for now and doing it later if need be. The pads with 24 at the end ARE common ground, so this shouldnt be too bad. This is my first time modding a stick, i'll likely start working on it tonight, very excited!
 
Wanted to give an update.. IT WORKS!!! All i did was re-wire the original stick first into one of those long distro things and use quick connectors. Then i removed the rubber from the buttons and placed some solder to it, then soldered the button ontop of that. I only tried 3 buttons + ground, x, y and Guide, all worked flawlessly WIRELESS! Im just taking a break with my Albertos super nachos, then i'll go finish the stick!
 
[quote name='jirotokio']The two trigger buttons actually share a different ground from all of the other buttons.[/QUOTE]

I was just noticing that. So, when i wire up the buttons for LT/RT, i use its own ground for those 2 buttons, and then the normal signals. Otherwise, looks like i can use a single ground for every other button and the stick itself, right?
 
Ive got everything wired up and good to go, except the d-pad!! I just cannot get anything going on those, so im trying to get the alternative points going, but my wire is too thin to get inside the hole and then solder onto it. Im going to try scraping at the alternate points next to see if i can get enough metal exposed to get some solder in there and get this sucker done. Luckily one of the d-pad points on the bottom is a nice big spot, super easy. The other 3 are not however.
 
I'd actually be tempted to leave that Tatsunoko stick with its stock artwork for once... Gotta put some real arcade parts in there though, if it ever comes to fruition.

Congrats on the SFAC stick mod, Blitz!
 
Eastx, help me with the d-pad! I need Up, Left and Down. The alternate points are too small for me to put wire through and solder in, i was told to open them up a little bit and then fill it with solder, but that seems risky. Just need those 3 points done and im finished.
 
I haven't actually worked with the newer wireless PCBs, but here's another image:

360CGWirelessBoardTop.jpg


If you can't scrape the vias and get a wire to stick to them (using small wire like 30 AWG and maybe even soldering flux sometimes helps), scraping the contacts is the only other route.
 
Yah, i tried flux, it holds but comes off super easy. Not good enough especially for a wireless stick. Im gonna get some 30 gauge tomorrow and hope that does the trick. If not, i'll make the hole bigger in one half so at least the other half can attempt to make a connection and solder it full. Man i cannot wait to be done with this thing.
 
[quote name='blitz6speed']I was just noticing that. So, when i wire up the buttons for LT/RT, i use its own ground for those 2 buttons, and then the normal signals. Otherwise, looks like i can use a single ground for every other button and the stick itself, right?[/QUOTE]
Yes. If you really want it to be single common ground, you have to wire the triggers with resistors and a transistor each. Its what I had to do to dual mod my ps3 TE stick. Those vias can be a pain. Use 30AWG and scratch at the vias with a nice sharp exacto. Flux will definitely help as Eastx suggested. Once your connection is solid, finish it off with hot glue or super glue.
 
Argh.. Had a long day today.. Got home late and finally got started on the stick. Using a exacto knife, i opened up the holes, put in 30-gauge wire, then soldered in. I did up, down and left, and really didnt think it would work..

And 2 out of 3 did work! Right works by default, using that huge blob on the back for that. And left and up worked perfect, just no down. Switched connectors on the joystick itself to see if thats causing it, and nope, joystick is fine. I re-do the down and it still doesnt work, but now the up is intermitent! I did down all over again by removing the solder and doing a even better job, and now up and down both do not work period. I am thinking it is the wire, but im going to find out tomorrow, headache and too tired. Any tips, let me know! Considering an attempt to solder onto the damn leg of the chip if all else fails, do not want this board going to waste!
 
Long story and a lot of parts + driving later, i have finished my stick! I am playing HD Remix with a wireless arcade stick for 360! I just now need to wire in the PS3 sixaxis and have a dual wireless stick lol.
 
Way to go!

But umm, you remember that the SixAxis isn't common ground and therefore it can't be used in dual-PCB sticks without building a custom PCB to convert it to common ground, right? The AxisAdapter doesn't do that; it just makes the SixAxis a lot easier to wire up to an arcade stick.
 
Congrats on finishing the build. If you do decide to go dual pcb, the wireless ps3 controllers are not recommended as they are not common ground as Eastx stated. If it must be wireless you may want to hold off for the tekken 6 sticks as they are supposed to be wireless. Not sure if it will be common ground. I'm hoping it is.
 
is there a reliable way to buy one of the new microsoft wireless pcbs? a way to tell by the packaging or maybe the color or one of those custom art controllers?
 
I've also been wondering this as I'll be getting SFIV soon and my current stick is pretty sticky with the buttons. It was an EX2 and its great, got it from a friend so it was already used. He gave it to me because he upgraded to the madcatz TE stick, which I like more than mine. Bigger and sturdier, although the extra buttons do seem useless to me. Are there any games that use them where it would be useful to have 8?

The TE stick looks enticing since I got a 50% amazon coupon and ECA.
 
[quote name='blitz6speed']Once you remove the battery pack, the sticker that covers the hidden screw has to end with -24. Otherwise, i have no way of knowing.[/QUOTE]

Sweet, apparently I have one and used to have an old one. First thing I noticed about the new one is that the gray on it is much lighter. That's about all I can tell you myself, lol.
 
[quote name='V4oLDbOY']I've also been wondering this as I'll be getting SFIV soon and my current stick is pretty sticky with the buttons. It was an EX2 and its great, got it from a friend so it was already used. He gave it to me because he upgraded to the madcatz TE stick, which I like more than mine. Bigger and sturdier, although the extra buttons do seem useless to me. Are there any games that use them where it would be useful to have 8?

The TE stick looks enticing since I got a 50% amazon coupon and ECA.[/QUOTE]

In SF4 the two extra buttons are for your PPP and KKK, so you hit those for the Super/Ultras instead of having to hit all three punches or kicks. It would be useful for any fighting game that does that.
 
[quote name='V4oLDbOY']I've also been wondering this as I'll be getting SFIV soon and my current stick is pretty sticky with the buttons. It was an EX2 and its great, got it from a friend so it was already used. He gave it to me because he upgraded to the madcatz TE stick, which I like more than mine. Bigger and sturdier, although the extra buttons do seem useless to me. Are there any games that use them where it would be useful to have 8?

The TE stick looks enticing since I got a 50% amazon coupon and ECA.[/QUOTE]
It all depends on the game. Having a setup with 8 buttons in awesome for SNK fighters since you can recreate the arcade setup using the top 4 buttons. No game fighting game that I know of currently uses 8 buttons but it's nice to have the option. I like an 8 button set up because I use different layouts for each game I play.
 
you also need those buttons for some of the useless sf4 menu stuff if you care about making emoticons at people between matches, setting your icons, or browsing the scoreboards
 
Just got my VSHG, it's pretty damn pimp. I rearranged the layout to be standard, and I put my meshball on it. :cool:

VSHG2.jpg

Thanks, o2012o, for selling me this beauty. :)
 
[quote name='greyzieoriental']Here's some pics of my 2 babies:
Signed by Daigo, Justin Wong, Yoshinori Ono, and Seth Killian
CIMG3054.jpg

CIMG3049.jpg

CIMG3051.jpg
[/QUOTE]
Sexy
 
[quote name='Darkside Hazuki']Ordered my TE stick from Amazon (crazy trade promotion FTW) and I'm totally stoked. Can't wait to add it to the collection.

Just had to share, sorry.[/QUOTE]

Surprised that thread died, plenty of fighting game whores with swag around

[quote name='Bavgate']So... Why the hell did this get moved to the 360 section exactly?[/QUOTE]

Damn good question
 
My HRAP EX took a dump (for some reason, the connection cord got screwed up or frayed on the inside or something) I don't know how to fix it, so I traded in a bunch of stuff and am now the proud owner of a TE Stick for XBox 360 (I took out the Sanwa buttons I put in the HRAP and stuck them in my SE Stick for PS3)
 
[quote name='ZForce']My HRAP EX took a dump (for some reason, the connection cord got screwed up or frayed on the inside or something) I don't know how to fix it, so I traded in a bunch of stuff and am now the proud owner of a TE Stick for XBox 360 (I took out the Sanwa buttons I put in the HRAP and stuck them in my SE Stick for PS3)[/QUOTE]

What happened to the HRAP? if you still have it im interested
 
How do I get my Street Fighter PS3 sticks to work on a PC? I have an SE and a TE. I want to play some Super Nintendo roms with it.
 
In case anybody cares, I was the guy debating whether or not to get the TE stick and if I would notice that much of a difference between it and the Hori Arcade Stick 3 that I have right now.


Well, I ordered a TE stick, and I will fill you guys in on how I like it compared to the Hori 3.


I hope I can really tell the difference so my purchase was justified. I guess we will see.
 
[quote name='coleipoo']In case anybody cares, I was the guy debating whether or not to get the TE stick and if I would notice that much of a difference between it and the Hori Arcade Stick 3 that I have right now.


Well, I ordered a TE stick, and I will fill you guys in on how I like it compared to the Hori 3.


I hope I can really tell the difference so my purchase was justified. I guess we will see.[/QUOTE]

I Hear ya, having just ordered a TE last week. Its really difficult to justify spending that type of dough on a stick. I can't wait to use it though, I'm pretty psyched for it actually.
 
Well, I was bored this morning, so I took a group shot of most of most of my modest collection. MIA is a Happ modded SFAC stick and my wooden Happ beast. Everything is Sanwa, except for the black start and select buttons on the HRAP2 and T5, and the HRAP EX is all Seimitsu, LS-32 stick and snap-in buttons. Namco and VSHG are PS3, HRAP2 and T5 are PS2, and HRAP EX and SFIV TE are 360. TE will be dual modded soon for 360 and PS3. T5 is a WIP still, soon to be adorned with some plexi, or maybe just the top painted black, dunno yet.

StickCollection.jpg
 
[quote name='coolsteel']Nice collection, which one do you use the most?[/QUOTE]

Well, lately the VSHG when I play PS3, since I just got it, and the HRAP EX, since I've been playing some shmups on my PC and some XBLA Ikaruga with it.

The Namco has seen the most use, since that was my first one out of them back in '96, beat the hell out of it, then modded it. It used to say Namco above the stick, but it's been worn off by my fingers since.
 
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