CAG Arcade Stick Thread

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Hi everyone, I have been lurking here for a few days because Im interested in modding or preferably building my own joystick for use on the playstation 2 only so I was wandering if anyone who uses this board would know where I can get ahold of a playstation revision a controller so I can attempt to build a stick without having to solder, preferably new but used would be fine as long as everything works, I know I could just buy a hori pro, 2 or sa but the deciding factor for me was I wanted Art so yeah... thanks for the help anyone who responds.
 
Here's my control panel after a day of drilling and routing.
I got All white Sanwa 30mm buttons and a white ball top Sanwa JLF-TP-8 joystick! Sweet! Going to put some bitchin Chun Li art on there eventually too.

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I'm waiting on the Sanwa JLF ( think that's right) to route out the joystick part. Then comes the box, then comes the wiring.

I'm really nervous about doing the wiring wrong. I'm using one of the Madcatz arcade stick controllers for 360. How do people typically attach one of those to your box? Glue?

I see slagcoin reccomends a project box but that PCB is going to be big enough already. I really appreciate the help in this thread! My last question for right now is I know the Madcatz arcade has a common ground, does that mean I'll only need one ground wire for the buttons and another one for the direction pad? The information can be overwhelming for a new builder! Thanks guys!
 
The other day I switched my preorder to the 360 version of the TE stick on amazon...and today the ps3 version is in my gold box for 142....damnit. Anyways, if anyone wants the same thing just add all of the other sf4 merchandise to your cart and check your gold box everyday.
 
so how much will i be missing out on if i dont get the tourny stick and just get that 70 dollar stick?... im a newbie when it comes to sticks... thanks guys
 
Quick question, are the FS3's hard to mod? I'm starting to think that ordering one of those and just modding it later is a smarter thing for me to do than trying to build one from scratch.

I'm not worried about the actual building of the box, or the soldering, I'm just afraid I'll fuck up the button placement.
 
Modding the FS3 is kinda similar to modding a EX2, darthpuma.

[quote name='MusicNoteLess']Am I supposed to push down really hard on these quick connects? Or is there an easier way to install them?[/quote]Are you talking about attaching them to the buttons? Or attaching the wire to the red end (if you got the quick disconnects from LizardLick).
 
Lots of metal filing to get the buttons in there (could of been quicker if I had a dremel). I haven't modded the stick in my EX2 yet just the buttons.
 
[quote name='SmallWind']

Are you talking about attaching them to the buttons? Or attaching the wire to the red end (if you got the quick disconnects from LizardLick).[/quote]

I might as well learn about both. Enlighten me.
 
I've got my wires all done up connected to the madcatz PCB. I built most of the box tonight too. I think the control panel is going to look pretty jank. I got plexi to put over the top, but I'm not fitting it in any slick manner.

Maybe later I can attach a couple extra thin peices of poplar to the sides to act as frames. Because right now mine is a straight box where the panel goes all the way to the edges. It's going to make any art I throw on there look pretty weird.

I forgot to order the quick disconnects from lizard lick so I used some that my dad had lying around. They were .110 size female but had wire ends for much thicker gauge wire. I just crimped them, soldered, and hot glued the whole mess rather than buy some new ones. It works.
 
[quote name='MusicNoteLess']I might as well learn about both. Enlighten me.[/quote]For the wire to the red end, just strip some wire to expose the copper then just place it in red end. Then use a crimper and squeeze the red part.

For quick disconnect to button, just place it in like it the pic where the prong is between the flat side and the "m" shape of quick disconnect.
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[quote name='DarthPuma']Other than the RAP having a sanwa stick, what's the difference between the FS3 and the RAP3?[/QUOTE]

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Well, the HRAP3 is much better overall, while the FS3 is pretty much garbage IMO.

HRAP3 is much, much easier to replace the buttons in, and doesn't have a garbage stick as stock. For the price difference, don't even consider the FS3, get the HRAP3.

Also, HRAP3 is much bigger than the puny FS3, and has much more weight.
 
[quote name='DarthPuma']Other than the RAP having a sanwa stick, what's the difference between the FS3 and the RAP3?[/quote]

The HRAP is about a billion times better. The build quality is sturdier and the larger case is more comfortable for lap top use. The buttons are of better build quality, though not quite as good as Sanwa or Seimitsu buttons. That said, I really like the buttons in the HRAP3; they're a bit softer than American style buttons but I like that. The buttons on the HRAP3 also seem to require less pressure to activate than the FS3 buttons. I bought the FS3 for $30 and cannot recommend it even for that price. The HRAP3 can be gotten for $100 at Amazon. I highly recommend it.
 
[quote name='hankmecrankme']
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Well, the HRAP3 is much better overall, while the FS3 is pretty much garbage IMO.

HRAP3 is much, much easier to replace the buttons in, and doesn't have a garbage stick as stock. For the price difference, don't even consider the FS3, get the HRAP3.[/QUOTE]

Thanks. I got an unexpected 50 bucks so I started considering the HRAP. I'm torn between that or buying someone's Street Fighter Anniversary box and happ components. I want to try my hand at soldering.
 
[quote name='nil']The HRAP is about a billion times better. The build quality is sturdier and the larger case is more comfortable for lap top use. The buttons are of better build quality, though not quite as good as Sanwa or Seimitsu buttons. That said, I really like the buttons in the HRAP3; they're a bit softer than American style buttons but I like that. The buttons on the HRAP3 also seem to require less pressure to activate than the FS3 buttons. I bought the FS3 for $30 and cannot recommend it even for that price. The HRAP3 can be gotten for $100 at Amazon. I highly recommend it.[/QUOTE]

Definitely, all of this too. Also, the HRAP3 is only $90 shipped on Amazon right now.
 
Well, you guys have convinced me, I'm going to order the HRAP3 sometime this weekend. The fact that you don't even have to solder to switch out the buttons set me over the edge.

I have a couple of questions though. One, how much does akuma charge to dual mod? I guess I should just PM him. Two, would I need to buy that lexan stuff to put art on it?
 
Okay I'd really appreciate if anyone could help me out. I'm almost done building my custom 360 stick, as I got my sanwa parts in today.

I've got the wiring all done on the MadCatz Arcade GameStick - Everything seems to work right when tested and the sanwas are plugged in, but in the Windows Game Controllers window, where you can test the buttons and such, the number 1 button is always pressed.

By process of elimination I've determined this must be the guide button, but I'm not sure why it would be doing this. The soldering/wiring isn't any different than the other buttons and they work fine. Is this just showing up this way because it's a 360 controller plugged into the PC?
 
Man, I had to sand down, prime, and paint the norris arcade case a 2nd time because the paint cracked the 1st time. Everything was good until it rained. I'm assuming it was the humidity. :|

Anywho, I'm just waiting for the paint to dry. I'll be working on the wiring in the mean time.
 
[quote name='jer7583']Okay I'd really appreciate if anyone could help me out. I'm almost done building my custom 360 stick, as I got my sanwa parts in today.

I've got the wiring all done on the MadCatz Arcade GameStick - Everything seems to work right when tested and the sanwas are plugged in, but in the Windows Game Controllers window, where you can test the buttons and such, the number 1 button is always pressed.

By process of elimination I've determined this must be the guide button, but I'm not sure why it would be doing this. The soldering/wiring isn't any different than the other buttons and they work fine. Is this just showing up this way because it's a 360 controller plugged into the PC?[/quote]

No, it still shouldn't be always on. Are you positive that no solder spilled over and is shorting the two pads?
 
My first arcade stick! I took the Flying Spaghetti Monster Route. :cry:

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Last pic shows my anxiousness. I was so excited that I completed my arcade stick, that I forgot that I put the soldering iron next to the plexiglass. :cry: I'll eventually replace it.
 
Wow, beautiful.

Someday I'll do one. Maybe. I'd rather do something like what jarveyh has done a couple times. He's built some amazing, full-on MAME arcade cabs. I think it'd be easier to justify doing that seeing as how I've already got enough sticks for use on home consoles. Still, there would be something immensely satisfying about having my very own unique stick.
 
Any word on the 360->PS3 adapter, Markman? I'm itching for a reason to change my PS3 TE Stick preorder to a 360 one.

Also, how hard would it be to mod a PS3 one to work for the 360? Like, exactly how much harder would it be to go from PS3->360 vs. 360->PS3. I'm a total modding newbie.
 
[quote name='Dr Mario Kart']Will the Street Fighter 4 stick (PS3) be PC compatible?[/quote]

Both will be. The 360 will just require a driver download.
 
[quote name='MarkMan']So I just got about 100 new arcade sticks...

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One of which is given away to the first to quote that post and say how jealous we are right?

I am really fucking jealous. :lol:
 
[quote name='heavyd853']Do you know whats going on with the barnes and nobles thing Markmayng?[/quote]

Markman's on the phone right now, yelling at them.
 
[quote name='GuardianE']Markman's on the phone right now, yelling at them.[/quote]

I figured as much, I felt pretty guilty clicking the order button!
 
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