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I think you can buy basins or something to put the washer in. Won't stop a huge amount of water, but could help if something small happened.
Agreed. They will tap into the wires in the ceiling that feed the rest of the house and put the outlets wherever you want them. A couple hundred dollars would be my guess too.Well if there is space he could run it from the breaker box, then. Bottom line, it's not at all a difficult thing for them to do, it would just come down to the time/cost of running the new cable.
There is a formula, but it depends on the size of your tank. But it's at least every two years. There are two tanks, a solid storage tank and a grey water tank. There is pipes between the two and baffles. The baffles keep the solids out of the gray tank. I bet that you filled the one tank and it got pushed down and into the other tank and destroyed the system.I don't need help, but I do have some wicked good advice.
About 2 years ago, our septic started to get a little backed up. The ground was always really moist when it should have been completely dry. Well, we've been in the house 10 years and haven't had it pumped (stupid move!), so we decided to pump it. I dug up the cover and the guy came by and pumped it. At the last minute, he decided to grab his shovel and poke around. Turns out we had another tank next to the one we knew about (both 500 gallon tanks). So he pumped them both and went about his way.
Fast forward to now. The septic is screwed up and it's time to dig. The distribution box is broken, a line collapsed, it's plugged ... we have no idea. So we just dig. After a week of digging on and off, we uncover 2 more tanks (that's 4 people) that needed to be pumped. So we had the guys come by and pump them and shove a camera in the lines. All clear. What the hell? Oh wait a minute, looks like we have another tank! (Yes, for a total of 5.) The guy lifts the lid to pump it and it's full.
Now let me explain how full. (Those with weak stomachs, leave now.) A septic tank is supposed to be mostly liquid. The solids decompose and dissolve and get eaten by bacteria. It should basically be sewage water. How full was ours? There was no water. Wait, let me finish. There was NO water. It was packed so full and tightly that you could actually stand on the top of it. It's a 1000 gallon tank that was packed SOLID with poop. Our guess was that it hand't been pumped in 30 years or so.
Moral of the story? Pump your septic tank yearly.Also, make sure you know how many damn tanks you have. :/
I don't know how many of you CAGs are on a septic, but if you are, take care of that shit.
I wouldn't bother to tell them who's paying for what. Your buying agent just wants you to pick a house quickly so they get paid without doing too much work, and your selling agent might try to talk you into accepting a slightly lower offer with the excuse "since you'll get paid back for the fees it's really more!" (again, for them it's the quick turnaround time more than the split of a few K). You shouldn't have any realtor fees from buying your new home unless her company counts your closing costs which would be awesome and save you anywhere from 2-6 thousand dollars. Personally I'd consider July-Dec a long timeframe when it comes to looking for a house. I bought my latest house after a 4 month search and that felt like torture. If you still haven't found anything you like after a couple of months I'd tell them that you're on a timeline and maybe think about expanding your search criteria. Depending on where you're moving to a lot of markets dry out in the fall/winter so you may not see a lot of new homes popping up if you take a while to decide. Good luck!My wife just got a new position and her employer is offering to pay for all of our moving fees. When I say all moving fees I mean even things like realtor fees from selling our home and buying a new one. This leaves me with a lot of different questions then many people have when moving. Do I tell either realtor that we are on a short time frame(start the job in December)or do we hide that fact? Do you inform them that our employer is paying for most of the fees or does that make them less likely to work to get the price down?
Anyone ever been in a similar situation or have realtor experience here? I am sure I will have some other house questions too. Our last home was a crappy $36k starter home but with her employer having such a generous moving policy we are trying to be smart and really pick something with value that we love![]()
Wow jelly.... in LA you can't buy anything for that amount. 2 brdroom 1000 sq ft Condos in West LA go for $400,000 at least.Well, I have been in my place since November. I found out the first place I bid on had somehow been sold without being back on the market. It sold for $60,000. I'm a little pissed because I offered $62,000 for it in october. I guess I can take some pleasure in knowing they had to pay property taxes, assessments, electric, etc and ended up taking less than my offer. They probably lost about $7,000 by turning me down. I could have used the extra space though.
Yeah reminds me of the place we had a P&S on before we found our house. They found aWell, I have been in my place since November. I found out the first place I bid on had somehow been sold without being back on the market. It sold for $60,000. I'm a little pissed because I offered $62,000 for it in october. I guess I can take some pleasure in knowing they had to pay property taxes, assessments, electric, etc and ended up taking less than my offer. They probably lost about $7,000 by turning me down. I could have used the extra space though.
yeah I ended up buying a 1 br 2nd floor unit for 38,000. It last sold for $105,000. Im happy with it, but I could really use a larger place.Wow jelly.... in LA you can't buy anything for that amount. 2 brdroom 1000 sq ft Condos in West LA go for $400,000 at least.
Anyone have any recommendations for covering a car port? Getting tired of putting my car cover on every other week.
Thanks for the respose, and actually they are paying for all the closing fees as well. Pretty much the only thing this whole move we have to pay for is insurance/mortgage. They even pay for gas and wear and tear on our vehicle just for driving from Toledo to Lansing to house huntI wouldn't bother to tell them who's paying for what. Your buying agent just wants you to pick a house quickly so they get paid without doing too much work, and your selling agent might try to talk you into accepting a slightly lower offer with the excuse "since you'll get paid back for the fees it's really more!" (again, for them it's the quick turnaround time more than the split of a few K). You shouldn't have any realtor fees from buying your new home unless her company counts your closing costs which would be awesome and save you anywhere from 2-6 thousand dollars. Personally I'd consider July-Dec a long timeframe when it comes to looking for a house. I bought my latest house after a 4 month search and that felt like torture. If you still haven't found anything you like after a couple of months I'd tell them that you're on a timeline and maybe think about expanding your search criteria. Depending on where you're moving to a lot of markets dry out in the fall/winter so you may not see a lot of new homes popping up if you take a while to decide. Good luck!
Just another note - it'll probably take about a month from the time your offer is accepted until you're able to close so keep that in mind with your schedule
No, never lived in a condo. They do suck ass though.Another quick question. I know every market is different, every house is different and every situation is different. But have houses been staying on the market forever and a half like before? I keep reading the market is picking up but still really limping along. Just trying to figure out how long to play uninterested in a few dream homes that feel pretty cheap. I imagine its still safe to play possum for a month or two in general?
BTW Dead of Knight, you lived in condos and hated them correct? Pretty sure from when I was active here awhile back I recall you and a few others really ragging on condos and saying they are never the way to go.
It depends on your area. I had a vanity top and faucet put in my bathroom as well as a kitchen faucet and it was $150. I doubt it will be that cheap everywhere. I would think about $150-$175 is the going rate for a kitchen sink/faucet combo. If you call a few places they can give an estimate. There are youtube videos for it. The main advantage of having a plumber do it is s/he can look for cracks in the pipes or replace the feeds if they are old, etc.What goes on in replacing a kitchen sink? I have a big white porcelain 2 basin one that I really hate, it's shattered a few glasses already. I feel like a nice newer looking one (I assume they're made of metal) would look way better in my house and be more forgiving on my dishes.
Is that a major process? And if I was to have a plumber/handyman do it, how much do you think that would run?
Also, I live in a condo (well I guess the proper term is townhouse) and only share one side wall with a neighbor and I love it. The only issue I'd have with condos is if I had someone living above me. My HOA fees are a little high but I also love that they do all my lawn watering and maintenance, snow shoveling, and roofing (I got a brand new roof this year!)
Replacing a sink is one of the easiest DIY projects. It's really simple and only takes about an hour (depending on your setup). I would also recommend buying a new faucet as well. Just make sure to buy a similar style/shape sink as your current one so you don't have to fool around with the counter.What goes on in replacing a kitchen sink? I have a big white porcelain 2 basin one that I really hate, it's shattered a few glasses already. I feel like a nice newer looking one (I assume they're made of metal) would look way better in my house and be more forgiving on my dishes.
Is that a major process? And if I was to have a plumber/handyman do it, how much do you think that would run?
Also, I live in a condo (well I guess the proper term is townhouse) and only share one side wall with a neighbor and I love it. The only issue I'd have with condos is if I had someone living above me. My HOA fees are a little high but I also love that they do all my lawn watering and maintenance, snow shoveling, and roofing (I got a brand new roof this year!)
Let me know if you decide to do it yourself because I have a couple of good DIY books (pdf) which I can email to you. It goes without saying that youtube is always an incredible resource especially if you are a visual person.Thanks for the info guys. I look into doing it myself a little bit, my mom is actually pretty handy around the house so I'll see what she thinks as well.
I actually bought my condo because the houses I liked were just a bit out of my price range as well. I got my condo for $126K and all the houses in the area I was looking at were probably in the $170K-$190K and I just didn't want to be stretched that thin from month to month.
Just bumping this looking for a little help. I asked at Lowes the other day and nobody got the gist of what I was asking.Another stupid question.
In our kitchen on our back storm/screen door we have no screen inserts both spots are filled in with the glass panels in their frames. Is there a way to get panels containing screens made up when you dont even have the frames for them? I know if you have the frames you can get missing or broken screens replaced or repaired but is anything I can do in this case other than buying a whole new screen door?
If I understand your question correctly, you should be able to pop out the glass panels and replace one or both panels with a screen. The door should have been designed in such a way as to accommodate both. All you need to do is buy a replacement screen panel (leave about 1 inch extra on all sides) and install new spline. Alternatively, you can replace the entire door.Just bumping this looking for a little help. I asked at Lowes the other day and nobody got the gist of what I was asking.
I was also told the frames for the glass panels were different than the frames that take the screens. I only have frames with the glass in them no frames at all for the screens. So there is no screen to replace I need both the screen and the frames to put them in.If I understand your question correctly, you should be able to pop out the glass panels and replace one or both panels with a screen. The door should have been designed in such a way as to accommodate both. All you need to do is buy a replacement screen panel (leave about 1 inch extra on all sides) and install new spline. Alternatively, you can replace the entire door.
If you could post a picture I might be better able to answer your question.
Do yourself a favor and pop out one of the glass panels. If the track behind the glass is flush (flat) then you are SOL. If there is a groove there you are okay. I don't know what else to tell you.I was also told the frames for the glass panels were different than the frames that take the screens. I only have frames with the glass in them no frames at all for the screens. So there is no screen to replace I need both the screen and the frames to put them in.
I would try snaking the drain. If that doesn't work, call a plumber - sooner rather than later based on your description of what is going on down there.I have water coming in my basement through a drain in my floor. Nothing in my basement (washing machine/water heater) is leaking, and I don't see water coming in anywhere else, like cracks in the floor of the unfinished room. Just the drain, which is totally backed up and I'm having to go down every 30 minutes or so and mop up so that the water doesn't spread onto anything beside the linoleum floor.
Any ideas?
If you are hooked up to city sewers, they are probably backing up. It could be a city problem, but most likely if they find the problem going from the street to your house, they will say it is the homeowners responsibility. It could cost a lot of money if it is a broken pipe. If you had a lot of rain, then it is probably the city sewers being at a higher level...Do you smell 'sewer gas'? Phosphorous or stink? Either way a plumber sooner than later is the way to go.I have water coming in my basement through a drain in my floor. Nothing in my basement (washing machine/water heater) is leaking, and I don't see water coming in anywhere else, like cracks in the floor of the unfinished room. Just the drain, which is totally backed up and I'm having to go down every 30 minutes or so and mop up so that the water doesn't spread onto anything beside the linoleum floor.
Any ideas?
You should consider getting a dehumidifier. It makes a world of difference.So yeah, moving the A/C drainage tube out of the drain worked. The water in the drain is going down and the pan I put the tube in was nearly filled.
I had no idea that central air systems created so much condensation and water. Haha I feel kind of stupid for not checking this out first. Oh well.
Ill second this, my wife and I got one and it worked wonders.You should consider getting a dehumidifier. It makes a world of difference.
Yeah I by no means expect them to accept anywhere near that. I just hope starting lowball we can maybe settle a bit lower eventually. $75k is the max id honestly want to pay and thats $15k below asking. I also forgot to mention that there are no bathtubs in the house at all, just showers. That is again a big deal to some people(I know I feel like giving up baths is giving up a lot!). Actually part of the only reasons I am ok with the house not having baths is because its enough property to put in a pond(or at least a decent pool)eventually.I would go for the possible price you feel comfortable with.
That's one thing I don't get is why people get so offended when it comes to selling a home and price offers.
With the cemetery and a full house redesign needed I would say 65k is a fair starting point. Chances are they won't go for it.
Kind of on the opposite side of that, does anyone have any experience with portable evaporative coolers? I've been looking into getting one for my main living area since my Central Air doesn't do a very good job (guy I had come out checked everything, says it's just an air flow issue which would require more ducting and air intakes, not a cheap job).You should consider getting a dehumidifier. It makes a world of difference.
I don't think the interior looks all that bad, but maybe I just don't have very good taste haha.Debating how much to low ball on a house and hoping to get some opinions! We have to move in by December so normally I would not think of lowballing too much. However.....
1. Unless we pull a miracle and sell our current house in a month the most we qualify for is $80k and thats with tapping our 401k, this house is $90k.
2. Its got faaaaaaaar more land and privacy then anything normally in our price range. I hate people and love my dogs, so this houses location and space is a dream come true.
3. Its been on the market for well over a year.
We think the main reason its likely so cheap and been up so long is likely a mix of the horribly ugly/retro interior and the fact that a lot of people probably dont want a cemetery in their back yard(the highway and golfcourse might turn some off too). The house looks to be in pretty good shape with some updates in the last 5ish years. The porch starting to slope over 5-20 years looks to be the next big issue that would arise. The realtor says to put out an offer of $70k which I think is a respectable first offer given how long its been on the market, but I am wondering if we can get away with $65 or $67. Just dont want to sour any possible deal by insulting the home owners with an extreme low ball.
Link to the house
http://www.trulia.com/property/3094762668-3112-E-Mount-Hope-Ave-Lansing-MI-48910