Gamecube to Game Boy Micro Cable - Instructions in here
- Thread starter Troz1820
- Start date
lSonol
CAG Veteran
I just picked up the cables from the post office this morning. I've tried it today and I must say... I am highly impressed by your work on this. It looks very professional. The connection seems flawless, I've yet to encounter any problems, and even the GBM to GBA cable works great. Thanks alot, Troz. I give you a 100 out of 10 rating on this XD. It was well worth the wait for me.
* 100 Not a typo =P*
* 100 Not a typo =P*
FallingAway
CAG Veteran
Hey, i need one of these, are you still making them?
[quote name='Troz1820']TCCPhreak - Do you mind taking a few photos of the BigBen link cable's circuitboard? I've had no luck replicating your success using the Gamecube to power the ICs with the various GC->GBA link cables I have.[/quote]
Hello there,
I'm sorry for not responding earlier.
Well, I have glued the BigBen Connector closed (Often I'm not very cautious opening things that don't want to open) but I could open it up, again and take a picture.
Although I don't think that there's much to see. It's just a small wire between VCC and Pin1 of the (ex-)GBA-connector. The other wires were soldered to the appropiate wires from a GBM-cable.
I also got a bunch of connectors called "new version". With them I learned that Pin 4 and 5 are not needed for a Cube-Connection. I also thought about trying the VCC-connection again, so I might take pictures from there (if it works).
Congratulations on being successful with soldering to the micro-connectors. I also got one connector "to the bone" but I guess I lack the skill of soldering to that tiny plugs.
Has anyone yet tried using an external power source with the cables? Powering it with a GBA or SP did work.
I also thought about taking apart an old (and cheap) GB module and taking the 3.3V from the power pin there... Still I don't know whether GBM supplies the voltage to the cartridge when LinkBoot is used.
Greetings,
TCCPhreak
Hello there,
I'm sorry for not responding earlier.
Well, I have glued the BigBen Connector closed (Often I'm not very cautious opening things that don't want to open) but I could open it up, again and take a picture.
Although I don't think that there's much to see. It's just a small wire between VCC and Pin1 of the (ex-)GBA-connector. The other wires were soldered to the appropiate wires from a GBM-cable.
I also got a bunch of connectors called "new version". With them I learned that Pin 4 and 5 are not needed for a Cube-Connection. I also thought about trying the VCC-connection again, so I might take pictures from there (if it works).
Congratulations on being successful with soldering to the micro-connectors. I also got one connector "to the bone" but I guess I lack the skill of soldering to that tiny plugs.
Has anyone yet tried using an external power source with the cables? Powering it with a GBA or SP did work.
I also thought about taking apart an old (and cheap) GB module and taking the 3.3V from the power pin there... Still I don't know whether GBM supplies the voltage to the cartridge when LinkBoot is used.
Greetings,
TCCPhreak
mariomaniac33
CAG Veteran
I want to get one of these cables. Are you still making them and if so, can you PM me about it?
I'm not sure whether those questions were directed at Troz.
I can make those cables (although I'd have to try with the new bunch of Cube-Connector-Cables... only 4 wires) but I have to use those expensive Nintendo-GBM-cables (I also have to check whether they still sell them) and as I'm sitting in germany, I believe postage would be very hard.
Greets,
TCC
I can make those cables (although I'd have to try with the new bunch of Cube-Connector-Cables... only 4 wires) but I have to use those expensive Nintendo-GBM-cables (I also have to check whether they still sell them) and as I'm sitting in germany, I believe postage would be very hard.
Greets,
TCC
I think I've replied to everyone about the cables. Seems that getting the expensive Nintendo cables is the problem, as it always has been. It's too bad that they really are the only method for reliably doing this aside from breaking open the connector. When doing that, the connectors I've torn apart aren't presentable enough to share with others.
I don't know if TCCPhreak has made any for anyone else, but send him a message since shipping might be a little easier (I think)
For me to do it I need the cables sent to me since I ran out once again. Send your complaints to Nintendo for not selling these in retail stores
For me to do it I need the cables sent to me since I ran out once again. Send your complaints to Nintendo for not selling these in retail stores
[quote name='Troz1820']The cable has a switch in the middle for GC or GBA. It can be used for the Micro->GC Link when set to GC or for a GBA->Micro Link when set to GBA. It cannot work as a GBA->GC Link Cable since that end was replaced with the Micro connector.[/QUOTE]
That's what I meant. Good to know.
That's what I meant. Good to know.
[quote name='indigotine']I made a second GCN - Micro cable after picking up a second All-In-One cable and using the left-over half of my Micro - Micro cable. I noticed that in one All-In-One there was an orange wire, and the other, there was a white instead.
Using the key posted somewhere earlier in this thread, I made the second one assuming that the white wire replaced the orange. It worked.
I just thought I'd throw that note out there for anyone who is interested in making their own with an All-In-One cable by Pelican. I didn't have to solder anything and could use both halves of my Micro to Micro cable, so I think the All-In-One method is more economic than the original method. Especially for those who are worried about messing things up with the soldering iron.
all you need are some scissors, electrical tape, and maybe a little plastic box to house the wire connections to keep things prettier.[/QUOTE]
First off, great thread and great work everyone! I made my own GBM->GC cable today using the Pelican all-in-one cable. I tested it with Animal Crossing and Wind Waker and they both operated fine with no problems. My pelican cable had 7 wires, and also had a white wire instead of the orange. Here is the wiring scheme I used (it's the same as posted previously but I will put it here again for others if they need it)
Micro Wires => Pelican Wires
Shielding => Green
Blue => Blue
Orange => Yellow
Brown => Red
Green => White* (may be orange on some cables?)
Red => Brown
Shield => Black
Notice the two shielding wires, I just twisted the shielding wires into two strands which I used to solder. Also notice that I had a white wire on my Pelican cable instead of the orange.
I was even able to remove that rubbery "flex joint" that straddles the casing of the little plastic box and although it is a tight squeeze, I was able to get the GBMicro cable through it. So now the joint where the cable runs into the small plastic box looks very clean (and is very sturdy) because I was able to re-use the original plastic mating piece. My cable now looks identical to the stock Pelican cable, except that on the single cable end there is a Micro connector instead of a 2nd GBA connector.
I don't know if the Micro-GBA wiring works as I do not have a GBA or SP to test, but I might bring my custom cable with me to my local EB Games tomorrow when I go return the Nintendo official GBA-GC cable I bought but didn't use, and see if I can just borrow one of their GBA/SP units to see if it works.
I really liked the pelican PCB inside the plastic box because it provided a decent work area. I actually unsoldered the original wires and connector leading to the original GBA cable, and soldered the wires of the micro cable directly to the PCB pads. These pads were much larger than the little holes on the nintendo GBA-GC cable that are pictured in the original post. I admit that my soldering was not the best but I am confident the connections are strong.
So in the end it may have been a little more expensive with the $10 nintendo micro cable and the $8 pelican cable (I had to buy it new) and therefore may be not quite up to "Cheap ass gamer" standards
but hey it was fun and worth it too because now I too can connect my GBMicro to my GC. Sweet!
Ruahrc
Using the key posted somewhere earlier in this thread, I made the second one assuming that the white wire replaced the orange. It worked.
I just thought I'd throw that note out there for anyone who is interested in making their own with an All-In-One cable by Pelican. I didn't have to solder anything and could use both halves of my Micro to Micro cable, so I think the All-In-One method is more economic than the original method. Especially for those who are worried about messing things up with the soldering iron.
all you need are some scissors, electrical tape, and maybe a little plastic box to house the wire connections to keep things prettier.[/QUOTE]
First off, great thread and great work everyone! I made my own GBM->GC cable today using the Pelican all-in-one cable. I tested it with Animal Crossing and Wind Waker and they both operated fine with no problems. My pelican cable had 7 wires, and also had a white wire instead of the orange. Here is the wiring scheme I used (it's the same as posted previously but I will put it here again for others if they need it)
Micro Wires => Pelican Wires
Shielding => Green
Blue => Blue
Orange => Yellow
Brown => Red
Green => White* (may be orange on some cables?)
Red => Brown
Shield => Black
Notice the two shielding wires, I just twisted the shielding wires into two strands which I used to solder. Also notice that I had a white wire on my Pelican cable instead of the orange.
I was even able to remove that rubbery "flex joint" that straddles the casing of the little plastic box and although it is a tight squeeze, I was able to get the GBMicro cable through it. So now the joint where the cable runs into the small plastic box looks very clean (and is very sturdy) because I was able to re-use the original plastic mating piece. My cable now looks identical to the stock Pelican cable, except that on the single cable end there is a Micro connector instead of a 2nd GBA connector.
I don't know if the Micro-GBA wiring works as I do not have a GBA or SP to test, but I might bring my custom cable with me to my local EB Games tomorrow when I go return the Nintendo official GBA-GC cable I bought but didn't use, and see if I can just borrow one of their GBA/SP units to see if it works.
I really liked the pelican PCB inside the plastic box because it provided a decent work area. I actually unsoldered the original wires and connector leading to the original GBA cable, and soldered the wires of the micro cable directly to the PCB pads. These pads were much larger than the little holes on the nintendo GBA-GC cable that are pictured in the original post. I admit that my soldering was not the best but I am confident the connections are strong.
So in the end it may have been a little more expensive with the $10 nintendo micro cable and the $8 pelican cable (I had to buy it new) and therefore may be not quite up to "Cheap ass gamer" standards
but hey it was fun and worth it too because now I too can connect my GBMicro to my GC. Sweet!Ruahrc
[quote name='patters']Since nobody seems to have listed the actual pin outs on the gameboy units - here is my diagram. I've successfully put a micro-style link plug on an F2A USB linker and can confirm it works fine:
EDIT - Ah, seen Troz's post above. oops. I think it matches up so that's good.
EDIT2 - Hmm, it doesn't seem to match so I'm not sure Troz's diagram is correct. His info earlier in the thread certainly wasn't because I tried wiring it like that and it didn't work. Mine is definitely tested working, and what I'm describing here are the actual sockets on the Gameboy units, not some particular brand of cable. I managed to get the information from here but in my diagram I've labelled what each pin does rather than just showing an equivalence:
http://www.gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?do=show&id=schematics%3Agbmtogba[/quote]
My testing indicates that TROZ's pinout earlier in the thread might be accurate.
So I have a Micro Micro 2 player cable that I am butchering. I have been looking for the actual pinouts of the Micro for quite a while. ( this forum is the only one with any real info) Anyway, my interest is not in connecting to a GBA or GC or anything, rather I'm trying to make a Micro addon that was originally for the GBA. ( http://www.pixelproc.net/altivario.html )
My problem has been identifying the equivalent pinouts on the GBM. I just turned on my Micro and DMM and I am getting +3.3 V from pin 2 to 7 on Patter's drawing above. I.E. Pin 2 = GND, Pin 7 = 3.3V. This indicates to me that either the micro is holding SCLK high until it is pulled low at which point it would turn on 3.3 V at pin 3, or that the above pinout is incorrect. Ok, I just checked pins 3 to 6 as well, they all read 3.3 V relative to pin 2. I presume the GMB is waiting for one of the inputs to be pulled low before initiating communication, but I don't know much about serial comm.
On my GBM, at least, the Diagram above is incorrect since there would be no way for pin 3 (3.3V?) to be higher than pin 6 (GND) by 3.3 V, since I have measured 3.3 V on pin 6 relative to pin 2. Which means that on the above diagram pin 2 would either have to be at -3.3V or pin 3 would have to go up to 6.6V, which I highly doubt.
My operating assumption for Micro pinouts ( I dont have a GBA ):
(On a side note, I have been having trouble with pin orientation on some of the drawings I've seen. The way I understand it is the cable has the gold connector which is embedded into the back of the GBM: The Cable which looks like it would be 'Male' is actually Female. And the Micro itself has the Male connector. Is that what everyone understands?)
Also on the GBM - GBM 2 player cable, the only 2 pins for which I get continuity are pins 2 on both ends of the cable. None of the other pins are directly connected, which leads me to believe that pin 2 really is GND. ( The other pins 3-7 have 580 ohms between them and pins 2 and 5 on the opposite end (except for pin 6 which is unconnected to any of the pins on the opposite side.) )
I can't explain why Patter got the results he did. I wired my F2A usb linker up according to TROZ's original post last year, and I could never get it to work. (I have better test equipment at hand now) If I get the time I'll rewire my F2A usb link up according to Patters drawing and see how that goes.
I am waiting for a printed PCB to arrive for my main project. When that does I'll stuff it according to TROZ's pinout and if it works, I'd say that would be good evidence for a conclusive pinout on the Micro, since that'd be a direct pinout to electronics connection, without the link cables in between. The link cables obviously switch SIN and SOUT and I dont know which SCLK they use, but I think that may be the source of the confusion.
Jesse
Also, I thank everybody for contributing to this forum. I hope I can help out.
EDIT - Ah, seen Troz's post above. oops. I think it matches up so that's good.
EDIT2 - Hmm, it doesn't seem to match so I'm not sure Troz's diagram is correct. His info earlier in the thread certainly wasn't because I tried wiring it like that and it didn't work. Mine is definitely tested working, and what I'm describing here are the actual sockets on the Gameboy units, not some particular brand of cable. I managed to get the information from here but in my diagram I've labelled what each pin does rather than just showing an equivalence:
http://www.gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?do=show&id=schematics%3Agbmtogba[/quote]
My testing indicates that TROZ's pinout earlier in the thread might be accurate.
So I have a Micro Micro 2 player cable that I am butchering. I have been looking for the actual pinouts of the Micro for quite a while. ( this forum is the only one with any real info) Anyway, my interest is not in connecting to a GBA or GC or anything, rather I'm trying to make a Micro addon that was originally for the GBA. ( http://www.pixelproc.net/altivario.html )
My problem has been identifying the equivalent pinouts on the GBM. I just turned on my Micro and DMM and I am getting +3.3 V from pin 2 to 7 on Patter's drawing above. I.E. Pin 2 = GND, Pin 7 = 3.3V. This indicates to me that either the micro is holding SCLK high until it is pulled low at which point it would turn on 3.3 V at pin 3, or that the above pinout is incorrect. Ok, I just checked pins 3 to 6 as well, they all read 3.3 V relative to pin 2. I presume the GMB is waiting for one of the inputs to be pulled low before initiating communication, but I don't know much about serial comm.
On my GBM, at least, the Diagram above is incorrect since there would be no way for pin 3 (3.3V?) to be higher than pin 6 (GND) by 3.3 V, since I have measured 3.3 V on pin 6 relative to pin 2. Which means that on the above diagram pin 2 would either have to be at -3.3V or pin 3 would have to go up to 6.6V, which I highly doubt.
My operating assumption for Micro pinouts ( I dont have a GBA ):
(On a side note, I have been having trouble with pin orientation on some of the drawings I've seen. The way I understand it is the cable has the gold connector which is embedded into the back of the GBM: The Cable which looks like it would be 'Male' is actually Female. And the Micro itself has the Male connector. Is that what everyone understands?)
Also on the GBM - GBM 2 player cable, the only 2 pins for which I get continuity are pins 2 on both ends of the cable. None of the other pins are directly connected, which leads me to believe that pin 2 really is GND. ( The other pins 3-7 have 580 ohms between them and pins 2 and 5 on the opposite end (except for pin 6 which is unconnected to any of the pins on the opposite side.) )
I can't explain why Patter got the results he did. I wired my F2A usb linker up according to TROZ's original post last year, and I could never get it to work. (I have better test equipment at hand now) If I get the time I'll rewire my F2A usb link up according to Patters drawing and see how that goes.
I am waiting for a printed PCB to arrive for my main project. When that does I'll stuff it according to TROZ's pinout and if it works, I'd say that would be good evidence for a conclusive pinout on the Micro, since that'd be a direct pinout to electronics connection, without the link cables in between. The link cables obviously switch SIN and SOUT and I dont know which SCLK they use, but I think that may be the source of the confusion.
Jesse
Also, I thank everybody for contributing to this forum. I hope I can help out.
It is possible to build a "universal GBM-GBA"-Adaptor. Simply solder the 6 middle wires to an appropiate GBA-plug (taken from a dead GBA or something, I took an old GBA-Link-Hub)
I build such an adapter and it works perfekt with "GBA-Cube-Cable", Wireless Adaptor, normal Link cable and an USB-savegame extractor.
About the GBM-pinout: the outer wires are power, the inner ones are the 6 link-pins - in the same order as they are numbered on GBA or so.
I made a document about GBA-linking once but till now it wasn't on the net
http://www.westfalen-challenge.de/playground/gbalink.PDF
(and it's not referenced from anywhere but here. I plan to put it on the technical section of my real page, I just wanted to have it online right now so that it IS online anywhere and people can read it)
Sorry it's german (I plan to do multi-language some time):
"Stecker am cable" = "plug when looking onto the cable"
"Buchse am Gameboy" = "plug when looking onto the link port"
---
other: Sweden... that's europe.
I'll try to find out whether GBM-link-cables are still available from Nintendo next week. Just beware that those original cables are not cheap.
As also said: You can use the Cube-power for powering the IC therefore using any cheap GBM-cable but I'll have to try whether that works with the GBA-cube-cables I have available.
Greets,
TCC
I build such an adapter and it works perfekt with "GBA-Cube-Cable", Wireless Adaptor, normal Link cable and an USB-savegame extractor.
About the GBM-pinout: the outer wires are power, the inner ones are the 6 link-pins - in the same order as they are numbered on GBA or so.
I made a document about GBA-linking once but till now it wasn't on the net
http://www.westfalen-challenge.de/playground/gbalink.PDF
(and it's not referenced from anywhere but here. I plan to put it on the technical section of my real page, I just wanted to have it online right now so that it IS online anywhere and people can read it)
Sorry it's german (I plan to do multi-language some time):
"Stecker am cable" = "plug when looking onto the cable"
"Buchse am Gameboy" = "plug when looking onto the link port"
---
other: Sweden... that's europe.
I'll try to find out whether GBM-link-cables are still available from Nintendo next week. Just beware that those original cables are not cheap.
As also said: You can use the Cube-power for powering the IC therefore using any cheap GBM-cable but I'll have to try whether that works with the GBA-cube-cables I have available.
Greets,
TCC
Play-Asia has third party micro->micro (two player) and micro ->micro ->micro ->micro (four player) cables.
Two Player - $2.99
^Shipping at US$ 1.80^
Four Player - $3.99
^Shipping at US$ 2.80^
"Wholesale inquiries welcome!" is said on both pages.
Two Player - $2.99
^Shipping at US$ 1.80^
Four Player - $3.99
^Shipping at US$ 2.80^
"Wholesale inquiries welcome!" is said on both pages.
[quote name='Doomed']Play-Asia has third party micro->micro (two player) and micro ->micro ->micro ->micro (four player) cables.
Two Player - $2.99
^Shipping at US$ 1.80^
Four Player - $3.99
^Shipping at US$ 2.80^
"Wholesale inquiries welcome!" is said on both pages.[/QUOTE]
The problem with those cables (well, I haven't tested them but it's the problem with all third-party-cables I've seen so far) is that they don't use electronics, therefore they don't have a wire for Pin1 - which is 3.3V from the GBMicro.
Unfortunately the Cube-Cables have electronics in them and expect those electronics to be powered from the GBA, so if you don't have that power wire, the cable won't work easily.
I've tried (with some success) to simply take a solder spot that has 3.3V from the Cube and wire it to the spot where power from tha GBA is expected.
I also tried (successfully) to use a GBA SP to power two Cube-cables (its' own and one for the Micro).
But the most secure way is getting the power wire from the GBM itself. Nintendo-link-cables feature that wire (as they need the voltage to power some ICs in their linking cable; still, they have their price) and if you are very very very very good, you might be able to solder your own wire onto the connector port. (like Troz did)
Sorry for my english,
greets,
TCC
PS: 2-player-link cables only need 4 wires (so most cheap cables won't feature the fifth), 4-player-link-cables need 5 wires. Often you can find a sixth wire inside the cable but that is not power but shielding.
Two Player - $2.99
^Shipping at US$ 1.80^
Four Player - $3.99
^Shipping at US$ 2.80^
"Wholesale inquiries welcome!" is said on both pages.[/QUOTE]
The problem with those cables (well, I haven't tested them but it's the problem with all third-party-cables I've seen so far) is that they don't use electronics, therefore they don't have a wire for Pin1 - which is 3.3V from the GBMicro.
Unfortunately the Cube-Cables have electronics in them and expect those electronics to be powered from the GBA, so if you don't have that power wire, the cable won't work easily.
I've tried (with some success) to simply take a solder spot that has 3.3V from the Cube and wire it to the spot where power from tha GBA is expected.
I also tried (successfully) to use a GBA SP to power two Cube-cables (its' own and one for the Micro).
But the most secure way is getting the power wire from the GBM itself. Nintendo-link-cables feature that wire (as they need the voltage to power some ICs in their linking cable; still, they have their price) and if you are very very very very good, you might be able to solder your own wire onto the connector port. (like Troz did)
Sorry for my english,
greets,
TCC
PS: 2-player-link cables only need 4 wires (so most cheap cables won't feature the fifth), 4-player-link-cables need 5 wires. Often you can find a sixth wire inside the cable but that is not power but shielding.
I was just putting it out there for all the l33t h4x0r5 who think they can do something with it. Me, I don't even own a soldering iron, know how to use one, or how to do pretty much any hacking of anything.
I just bought a used Famicom Micro for $48 shipped from amazon, so I guess I need a cable now.
I just bought a used Famicom Micro for $48 shipped from amazon, so I guess I need a cable now.
50$ for a Micro... seems pretty expensive to me. I've heard that in some shop here they were sold for 20 Eur - but I was too late to get one of them.
Unfortunately most shops seem to take a while to see, that the Micro doesn't sell and that it's cheaper to sell them off at a "good price" and use the space for something else.
I just hope that I'm near when they realize.
In other news:
Phoned Nintendo today, they don't have any micro-link-cables left. They don't sell parts.
So I have to try the cube-powered-ones again... if anyone is still interested.
Greets,
TCC
Unfortunately most shops seem to take a while to see, that the Micro doesn't sell and that it's cheaper to sell them off at a "good price" and use the space for something else.
I just hope that I'm near when they realize.
In other news:
Phoned Nintendo today, they don't have any micro-link-cables left. They don't sell parts.
So I have to try the cube-powered-ones again... if anyone is still interested.
Greets,
TCC
Nintendo is out of Micro link cables? According to their online store, the link cable is still advertised and does not indicate that it is out of stock.
I have always wondered if it would be possible to build a wireless connection between the gamecube and the GBMicro using the wireless adapter. It would go something like this:
Gamecube>(GC Link Cable>GBA wireless adapter) > > GBMicro w/wireless adapter
You would have to graft a standard GBA wireless adapter to a GC>GBA link cable- I am wondering if the hardware and interfacing on the GBA wireless unit is transparent enough (i.e. does it simply recieve signals from the input pins and translate them to wireless signal broadcasting over the air) to just wire it all together.
I do have half of a GBmicro link cable (with a GBMicro plug and the "box" that is in the middle of the cable) that was leftover from when I made my cable. I'd be happy to send it along to someone (just would need to cover postage) if they needed it and are unable to secure a micro link cable of their own. Problem is it has moved away in a box (I am moving in the near future and have sent some of my stuff ahead already) and I probably can't get it until late June or early July.
Ruahrc
I have always wondered if it would be possible to build a wireless connection between the gamecube and the GBMicro using the wireless adapter. It would go something like this:
Gamecube>(GC Link Cable>GBA wireless adapter) > > GBMicro w/wireless adapter
You would have to graft a standard GBA wireless adapter to a GC>GBA link cable- I am wondering if the hardware and interfacing on the GBA wireless unit is transparent enough (i.e. does it simply recieve signals from the input pins and translate them to wireless signal broadcasting over the air) to just wire it all together.
I do have half of a GBmicro link cable (with a GBMicro plug and the "box" that is in the middle of the cable) that was leftover from when I made my cable. I'd be happy to send it along to someone (just would need to cover postage) if they needed it and are unable to secure a micro link cable of their own. Problem is it has moved away in a box (I am moving in the near future and have sent some of my stuff ahead already) and I probably can't get it until late June or early July.
Ruahrc
[quote name='Ruahrc']Nintendo is out of Micro link cables? According to their online store, the link cable is still advertised and does not indicate that it is out of stock.
I have always wondered if it would be possible to build a wireless connection between the gamecube and the GBMicro using the wireless adapter. It would go something like this:
Gamecube>(GC Link Cable>GBA wireless adapter) > > GBMicro w/wireless adapter
You would have to graft a standard GBA wireless adapter to a GC>GBA link cable- I am wondering if the hardware and interfacing on the GBA wireless unit is transparent enough (i.e. does it simply recieve signals from the input pins and translate them to wireless signal broadcasting over the air) to just wire it all together.
I do have half of a GBmicro link cable (with a GBMicro plug and the "box" that is in the middle of the cable) that was leftover from when I made my cable. I'd be happy to send it along to someone (just would need to cover postage) if they needed it and are unable to secure a micro link cable of their own. Problem is it has moved away in a box (I am moving in the near future and have sent some of my stuff ahead already) and I probably can't get it until late June or early July.
Ruahrc[/QUOTE]
The Wireless Adapter does not simulate a Game Link connection. Games must specifically support it. Also, the latency is very bad making turn based games like Pokemon and time based games like racing games the only kind that can really use it.
I have always wondered if it would be possible to build a wireless connection between the gamecube and the GBMicro using the wireless adapter. It would go something like this:
Gamecube>(GC Link Cable>GBA wireless adapter) > > GBMicro w/wireless adapter
You would have to graft a standard GBA wireless adapter to a GC>GBA link cable- I am wondering if the hardware and interfacing on the GBA wireless unit is transparent enough (i.e. does it simply recieve signals from the input pins and translate them to wireless signal broadcasting over the air) to just wire it all together.
I do have half of a GBmicro link cable (with a GBMicro plug and the "box" that is in the middle of the cable) that was leftover from when I made my cable. I'd be happy to send it along to someone (just would need to cover postage) if they needed it and are unable to secure a micro link cable of their own. Problem is it has moved away in a box (I am moving in the near future and have sent some of my stuff ahead already) and I probably can't get it until late June or early July.
Ruahrc[/QUOTE]
The Wireless Adapter does not simulate a Game Link connection. Games must specifically support it. Also, the latency is very bad making turn based games like Pokemon and time based games like racing games the only kind that can really use it.
Hello,
okay, I guess I should have given more detail: German Nintendo hotline told me they're out of GBM link cables.
If anyone can order some in USA and send them here, I'd be very grateful (don't know about postage and all, but at least payment would be no problem - Paypal).
In other news:
I compiled a page about this topic. I don't want to say that this forum is bad, bad page offers more pictures, photos etc. I also go into detail about the Cube powering the cables (sorry, I'm that late, Troz)
so if someone likes to read and look and perhaps comment:
http://www.mksmks.de/technical/gbmtocube.htm
(as always: my english is not the best, so please excuse smaller mistakes)
I have a small supply of Gamecube-GBA-cables (as might be seen on the pictures) and if anyone (near germany/europa) wants to try cube-powered-cables, please contact me.
Cheap GBM-link-cables should be able to get by in large quantities and in rather low prices (4 connectors, sub10Eur)
Greetings,
TCC
okay, I guess I should have given more detail: German Nintendo hotline told me they're out of GBM link cables.
If anyone can order some in USA and send them here, I'd be very grateful (don't know about postage and all, but at least payment would be no problem - Paypal).
In other news:
I compiled a page about this topic. I don't want to say that this forum is bad, bad page offers more pictures, photos etc. I also go into detail about the Cube powering the cables (sorry, I'm that late, Troz)
so if someone likes to read and look and perhaps comment:
http://www.mksmks.de/technical/gbmtocube.htm
(as always: my english is not the best, so please excuse smaller mistakes)
I have a small supply of Gamecube-GBA-cables (as might be seen on the pictures) and if anyone (near germany/europa) wants to try cube-powered-cables, please contact me.
Cheap GBM-link-cables should be able to get by in large quantities and in rather low prices (4 connectors, sub10Eur)
Greetings,
TCC
Play aisa has 4-way GBM cables for $6.79 US shipped, and you can get a wholesale discount. According to Yahoo finance, it's about 5 Euro.
As for wireless connecters, there's a third party one. http://www.amazon.com/G...es&qid=1180885190&sr=1-1
However, the reviews say it doesn't work on some games.
As for wireless connecters, there's a third party one. http://www.amazon.com/G...es&qid=1180885190&sr=1-1
However, the reviews say it doesn't work on some games.
I did a little mini-review on those Majesco's wireless links.
http://www.nintendoworldreport.com/forums/messageview.cfm?catid=5&threadid=16113&FTVAR_MSGDBTABLE=
http://www.nintendoworldreport.com/forums/messageview.cfm?catid=5&threadid=16113&FTVAR_MSGDBTABLE=
hello,
I'm not sure whether I get this right, does this adapter simulate a link-cable-connection or is it simply a third-party-equivalent to the nintendo-adapters?
Still, I believe that those adapters draw power from the GBA (where else?) and even if it'd be able to simulate the Cube-GBA-connection over wireless with those babys (which I fairly doubt,considering that the protocols seem to be different), we'd still be stuck with the old Pin1-Power-Problem.
Doomed: Thanks for the link. I always seem to pay about 7 or 8 Eur for fourplayer-cables but if play-asia is cheaper even with added postage, that might be an alternative.
Still, I have enough cables for my personal needs, so if no one in my region wants to try the cube-powered-cables, I guess, ordering those won't be necessary.
Troz:
You said, you didn't get the cube-powered-BigBen to work. If you PM me your address, I could send you one of mine, so you could take a look at it and test whether it works on US cubes. Might be nice to know - as I only have tested them on one cube.
Greets,
TCC
I'm not sure whether I get this right, does this adapter simulate a link-cable-connection or is it simply a third-party-equivalent to the nintendo-adapters?
Still, I believe that those adapters draw power from the GBA (where else?) and even if it'd be able to simulate the Cube-GBA-connection over wireless with those babys (which I fairly doubt,considering that the protocols seem to be different), we'd still be stuck with the old Pin1-Power-Problem.
Doomed: Thanks for the link. I always seem to pay about 7 or 8 Eur for fourplayer-cables but if play-asia is cheaper even with added postage, that might be an alternative.
Still, I have enough cables for my personal needs, so if no one in my region wants to try the cube-powered-cables, I guess, ordering those won't be necessary.
Troz:
You said, you didn't get the cube-powered-BigBen to work. If you PM me your address, I could send you one of mine, so you could take a look at it and test whether it works on US cubes. Might be nice to know - as I only have tested them on one cube.
Greets,
TCC
lenselijer
CAG Veteran
I have tried to make my own gb micro link cable, but my gb micro cable only has 4 wires, its missing the ground and power wire
I tried to use power and ground from the gamecube itself, but it doesnt seem to work. my gb micro is not being seen by the zelda/ff game.
Is there someone still selling a premade gb micro cable on this forum? i would like to buy one
I tried to use power and ground from the gamecube itself, but it doesnt seem to work. my gb micro is not being seen by the zelda/ff game.
Is there someone still selling a premade gb micro cable on this forum? i would like to buy one
[quote name='CZroe']They don't work on ANY single-pak GameLink game. [/QUOTE]
So you can't "boot" your GBA with it. (like you would do over link-cable with Single-pak GameLink games)
And that again makes it (almost) useless for Gamecube-things. FFCC, ZeldaFSA, PacmanVS... all those games are send to the GBA so the GBA boots over link port.
Can I somehow vote for making this thread sticky? As it seems to be the only source in the internet (at least the only one featered on wiki) to cover GBM-Gamecube-connections, I'm afraid of losing it sometime.
Greets,
TCC
[/QUOTE]So you can't "boot" your GBA with it. (like you would do over link-cable with Single-pak GameLink games)
And that again makes it (almost) useless for Gamecube-things. FFCC, ZeldaFSA, PacmanVS... all those games are send to the GBA so the GBA boots over link port.
Can I somehow vote for making this thread sticky? As it seems to be the only source in the internet (at least the only one featered on wiki) to cover GBM-Gamecube-connections, I'm afraid of losing it sometime.
Greets,
TCC
I'd ask a mod like shrike4242.
[quote name='SkiDragon']Has anybody tested the 4 way GBM cables from play asia to see how many wires are in the cables? I ordered one, and I am hoping it has all 6, although it probably doesn't.[/quote]
It's cheap. I'm very sure that even if it has 6 wires, none of them is connected to Pin1. Often a sixth wire is used for shielding, instead.
Greets,
TCC
It's cheap. I'm very sure that even if it has 6 wires, none of them is connected to Pin1. Often a sixth wire is used for shielding, instead.
Greets,
TCC
The Dragon cables from Play-Asia do not have the required wires, specifically the 5v wire.
TCCPhreak: Can you take a look at this photo and tell me if your BigBen cables are the same? This is the inside of a MadCatz cable. If it is then I'll test out supplying power from the Cube as you did with your BigBen cable here
I've been working on a better guide to replace the first post with but must admit that my Xbox 360 has taken a bunch of my time. I'm hooked on Pac-Man Championship Edition and staying on top of the Leaderboards.
TCCPhreak: Can you take a look at this photo and tell me if your BigBen cables are the same? This is the inside of a MadCatz cable. If it is then I'll test out supplying power from the Cube as you did with your BigBen cable here
I've been working on a better guide to replace the first post with but must admit that my Xbox 360 has taken a bunch of my time. I'm hooked on Pac-Man Championship Edition and staying on top of the Leaderboards.
I just confirmed the same thing about the play asia cable. The pinout was as follows. I couldn't figure out what the white wire connected to. Perhaps I can open up the plug and hook the white wire to power.
White ?
Yellow 2
Black 3
Brown 4
Blue 5
Red 6
EDIT: I tried opening the plug, but all the wires are embedded in a glob of plastic that prevents resoldering them.
White ?
Yellow 2
Black 3
Brown 4
Blue 5
Red 6
EDIT: I tried opening the plug, but all the wires are embedded in a glob of plastic that prevents resoldering them.
That's exactly the problem with those cables. However, if you're willing to work at it you can chip away the glob of plastic to get this:
It's not easy but it is possible. I don't use these for two reasons:
1) It takes way too long to get the glue off of the connector. I'd say 15 minutes of slowly chipping away at it, not to mention the fact that I've destroyed a few ends this way by accident.
2) I haven't found a good way of dressing up the connector once everything is done. The two plastic halves don't glue back together well.
However, if/when Nintendo runs out of Micro Link Cables, this will be the only way to build these cables.
It's not easy but it is possible. I don't use these for two reasons:
1) It takes way too long to get the glue off of the connector. I'd say 15 minutes of slowly chipping away at it, not to mention the fact that I've destroyed a few ends this way by accident.
2) I haven't found a good way of dressing up the connector once everything is done. The two plastic halves don't glue back together well.
However, if/when Nintendo runs out of Micro Link Cables, this will be the only way to build these cables.
General:
(no advertisement) I updated the page with some more pictures and connection infos. I also found out how to take clean short-distance photos so some pictures look much better now.
Troz:
The BigBen-circuit-board now has a much cleaner picture. I believe they are almost identical to the MadCatz. Still, your board says 203B while mine says 206B. *G*
And I always cut away the GBA-connector. Prevents accidents and often makes soldering easier.
SkiDragon:
My cheap 6-wire-cables have the same colors. White is shielding, just test the connection between white and the outer metal of the connector.
One of my Cube-powered-cables will go out to sweden next time I'm at the post office, so I'll soon have a second opinion on them. I killed my last "Neue Version" on the way (although it was presoldered so badly that I'm not certain whether it was alive before I touched it) so used a Logic3. Works fine (here) and with comes with its own circuit-board-housing to hide my solder crimes. *G*
Greets,
TCC
(no advertisement) I updated the page with some more pictures and connection infos. I also found out how to take clean short-distance photos so some pictures look much better now.
Troz:
The BigBen-circuit-board now has a much cleaner picture. I believe they are almost identical to the MadCatz. Still, your board says 203B while mine says 206B. *G*
And I always cut away the GBA-connector. Prevents accidents and often makes soldering easier.
SkiDragon:
My cheap 6-wire-cables have the same colors. White is shielding, just test the connection between white and the outer metal of the connector.
One of my Cube-powered-cables will go out to sweden next time I'm at the post office, so I'll soon have a second opinion on them. I killed my last "Neue Version" on the way (although it was presoldered so badly that I'm not certain whether it was alive before I touched it) so used a Logic3. Works fine (here) and with comes with its own circuit-board-housing to hide my solder crimes. *G*
Greets,
TCC
Hi everyone from New Zealand (official Sony territory...). It's a hard life for Nintendo fans down here.
It's near impossible to find the accessories, etc. required to make a start with this project, as New Zealand doesn't even have a proper Nintendo representative.
This thread is wonderful - but it's crazy that it was even needed in the first place.
Can anyone help with where I might be able to get a cable shipped to New Zealand or suggest where I could source suitable cables? The Play-Asia cables seem to be a no-go unfortunately, or else I would have got some there.
Thanks in advance.
It's near impossible to find the accessories, etc. required to make a start with this project, as New Zealand doesn't even have a proper Nintendo representative.
This thread is wonderful - but it's crazy that it was even needed in the first place.
Can anyone help with where I might be able to get a cable shipped to New Zealand or suggest where I could source suitable cables? The Play-Asia cables seem to be a no-go unfortunately, or else I would have got some there.
Thanks in advance.
[quote name='mario4eva']Hi everyone from New Zealand (official Sony territory...). It's a hard life for Nintendo fans down here.
It's near impossible to find the accessories, etc. required to make a start with this project, as New Zealand doesn't even have a proper Nintendo representative.
This thread is wonderful - but it's crazy that it was even needed in the first place.
Can anyone help with where I might be able to get a cable shipped to New Zealand or suggest where I could source suitable cables? The Play-Asia cables seem to be a no-go unfortunately, or else I would have got some there.
[/QUOTE]
I admit, I still believe that there is reason why none of the professional manufacturers tried powering the cables from GameCube side. I just can't believe that I was the first one to try it.
I use the Play-Asia-cables for building Cube-GBM-cables (bridging the Cube Power to where GBM-Power should be) and they work fine. So I guess they're not a complete no-go.
Greetings,
TCC
It's near impossible to find the accessories, etc. required to make a start with this project, as New Zealand doesn't even have a proper Nintendo representative.
This thread is wonderful - but it's crazy that it was even needed in the first place.
Can anyone help with where I might be able to get a cable shipped to New Zealand or suggest where I could source suitable cables? The Play-Asia cables seem to be a no-go unfortunately, or else I would have got some there.
[/QUOTE]
I admit, I still believe that there is reason why none of the professional manufacturers tried powering the cables from GameCube side. I just can't believe that I was the first one to try it.
I use the Play-Asia-cables for building Cube-GBM-cables (bridging the Cube Power to where GBM-Power should be) and they work fine. So I guess they're not a complete no-go.
Greetings,
TCC
bread's done