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MinDRIoT

MinDRIoT

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Having recently acquired a couple of tremendous Arcade1Up machines on sale at a local Walmart. Very tremendous. I thought we needed a dedicated Arcade1Up deals thread to keep track of deals. I know deals people, believe me.
 
These deals are very YMMV but it seems many, many Walmarts are clearing these out right now. Clearing them out. Brickseek links provided where available, check your local stores for price and availability. Brickseek is not 100% accurate though, as I said ... YMMV.

Search your local area, or any ZIP, for in store deals with deals.consolekits.com (Site no longer exists)
 
Asteroids, Major Havoc, Lunar Lander and Tempest - as low as $75 in store, very hard to find or $164.99 online
 
Centipede, Millipede, Missile Command, Crystal Castles - as low as $75 in store, very hard to find or $174.99 online
 
Final Fight, 1944, Ghosts'N Goblins, Strider - as low as $125 in store $150 at Walmart online
 
Galaga, Galaxian - as low as $75 in store $150 at Walmart online

Mortal Kombat I,II & III - as low as $150 in store $199 at Walmart online
 
Pacman, Pacman PLUS - as low as $150 in store
 
Rampage, Gauntlet, Joust, Defender - as low as $75 in store $199 at Walmart online
 
Space Invaders - as low as $75 in store $150 at Walmart online
 
Street Fighter ll - as low as $75 in store $199 at Walmart online
 
Golden Tee - $299 at Walmart

Marvel Superheroes - $299 at Walmart

Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles Arcade Machine w/ Riser - $349 at Walmart

Star Wars w/riser - $399 at Walmart

Pac-Man Head to Head Arcade Table with Two Pac-Man Gaming Stools (No Galaga or DigDug)- $450 at Sam's

Street Fighter Head to Head Arcade Table - $430 at Walmart

Legends Ultimate Home Arcade Special Edition - $500 at Sam's

 
Arcade1up Riser - $44.88 online or order for instore pickup
 
 
I myself picked up the Final Fight and Rampage machines for $125 each for the Oval Office in the White CatCondo.

 
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Richard Kain said:
It's difficult for me to justify picking up one of these things. I love the idea. But I designed and built my own arcade in college. If I really want a new cabinet, I would prefer to bust out the tools and start building one myself. It takes a lot longer, but you also get a more solid cabinet at the end.

In particular, you get the advantage of customizing the design. Someone earlier mentioned a cocktail cabinet. I've actually had ideas to design and build an arcade coffee table, as well as a wall-mounted minimal cabinet.
Click to expand...
Which is why you’d only want to mod one of these if you pick it up dirt cheap. I’d have rather done it all from scratch but I couldn’t say know to $75 cabinets.

Big Boss Mario said:
Costco now has Arcade 1Up online and in store

https://www.costco.com/CatalogSearch?dept=All&keyword=arcade+1+up


Golden Tee: $349.99
Mortal Kombat 2 : $349.99
Pacman : $349.99

All of them with riser and matching stool included
Click to expand...
Golden tee is tempting. Under $300 I don’t think I could pass it up. $250 or less would be an instant purchase for me. Wouldn’t mod it at all.

Does golden tee come with the stool at Costco? I didn’t think it did. Did you play it? How was the trackball accuracy in things like long drives vs short shots vs putting? The problem I have with golden tee while emulating it is getting consistent accuracy between those 3 things.
 
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Golden Tee does not come with the stool. I'll post some pics. I played one hole and the track ball was accurate.

kwick7 said:
Which is why you’d only want to mod one of these if you pick it up dirt cheap. I’d have rather done it all from scratch but I couldn’t say know to $75 cabinets.

Golden tee is tempting. Under $300 I don’t think I could pass it up. $250 or less would be an instant purchase for me. Wouldn’t mod it at all.

Does golden tee come with the stool at Costco? I didn’t think it did. Did you play it? How was the trackball accuracy in things like long drives vs short shots vs putting? The problem I have with golden tee while emulating it is getting consistent accuracy between those 3 things.
Click to expand...
 
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Werewolf said:
I got one in the email and it was the same as the one I got in the flyer, I checked the exclusions list and no mention of Arcade1Up machines on either.

I was able to use mine on a Arcade1Up Street Fighter Head to Head machine.
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Weird... maybe they changed it in the last couple days because I didn't try it until yesterday and there's a different exclusion list in the original email I got on Sunday than what shows now when I actually chick through to the site.

Email:
"Excludes Frozen 2 Arendelle Castle, Nerf Ultra One, LEGO, Garmin, Fitbit, Canon, HP, instax, Oculus, Polaroid, iHome, Amazon, JVC, JBL, JLab, gaming software, gaming hardware, gaming accessories and all Rideables products"

Site:
"Excludes all LEGO sets, all Arcade1Up machines, the Nerf Ultra One blaster, the Frozen 2 Ultimate Arendelle Castle playset, and the Sega Genesis mini console."

The PacMan standup is the only one that shows the option to add the coupon discount now... but it's out of stock.

 
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$349.99 with a riser isn't a deal; the machine is $299.99 new; riser is $44.99 new and the machine can easily be found for less. I'd wait closer to BF or Christmas. 

 
Dr. Venkman said:
$349.99 with a riser isn't a deal; the machine is $299.99 new; riser is $44.99 new and the machine can easily be found for less. I'd wait closer to BF or Christmas.
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The Costco version includes the riser and a stool. It also has the light up marquee. Which AFAIK, the non-Costco versions do not. The screen in the Costco machines is also different than the non-Costco machines. I don't have the link(s) handy, but there are some comparison videos on Youtube.

In any case, depending on what you're looking for, $349 isn't a horrible price if your inclined to get one anyway.

 
SunbirdTurbo said:
I am torn on this. Final Fight is my most desired cab to get but I am wondering what will happen on black friday for these cabs....
Click to expand...
Probably not much better than this. If you want this to play and not mod, this is a solid deal. If you only kind of want one and are happy enough missing out, then wait and see what happens.

Side note, I think Walmart has a 90 day return policy so you could just buy one and then not open it but wait for BF to see if a better deal comes around.

 
I wonder, when I buy it, I'll get that nostagia high, but when the PS5 comes out and I get it, nostalgia will be low and I'll still be able to return the Arcade 1Up to Costco because of their generous return policy.

 
Big Boss Mario said:
I wonder, when I buy it, I'll get that nostagia high, but when the PS5 comes out and I get it, nostalgia will be low and I'll still be able to return the Arcade 1Up to Costco because of their generous return policy.
Click to expand...
From the looks of it they are very IKEA like in assembly, meaning they likely are not made to be disassembled well and will become hella unstable if done so. MDF does not respond well to screws being removed and rescrewed back in.

 
nightc1 said:
Probably not much better than this. If you want this to play and not mod, this is a solid deal. If you only kind of want one and are happy enough missing out, then wait and see what happens.

Side note, I think Walmart has a 90 day return policy so you could just buy one and then not open it but wait for BF to see if a better deal comes around.
Click to expand...
Buy it now and wait is the correct answer. WM is in the holiday return period so you have until Jan 10, 2020 to return.

 
Yeah, this isn't the kind of thing that they'll accept returns on, especially if you've already assembled it. Unless you're prepared to put everything back in the box EXACTLY the way it was, I wouldn't expect to be able to return it.

The real savings on these kit-based on arcades is on time and effort. The materials for building a comparable arcade in this day and age are actually quite low. You could likely assemble the various pieces for less than $200, certainly less than $350. But the time necessary to plan everything out and process it, as well as the cost of the tools needed for doing this efficiently, is where the real cost lies. The true draw of these kits is how quick and easy it is for more casual fans to put them together.

For anyone interested, it might be a good idea to grab some two-by-fours for your cabinet, and add some cross-bracing, probably in the back bottom of the cabinet. This would bump up the stability of your cabinet considerably, while also adding some weight to the bottom. (helps prevent tipping)

 
Richard Kain said:
Yeah, this isn't the kind of thing that they'll accept returns on, especially if you've already assembled it. Unless you're prepared to put everything back in the box EXACTLY the way it was, I wouldn't expect to be able to return it.

The real savings on these kit-based on arcades is on time and effort. The materials for building a comparable arcade in this day and age are actually quite low. You could likely assemble the various pieces for less than $200, certainly less than $350. But the time necessary to plan everything out and process it, as well as the cost of the tools needed for doing this efficiently, is where the real cost lies. The true draw of these kits is how quick and easy it is for more casual fans to put them together.

For anyone interested, it might be a good idea to grab some two-by-fours for your cabinet, and add some cross-bracing, probably in the back bottom of the cabinet. This would bump up the stability of your cabinet considerably, while also adding some weight to the bottom. (helps prevent tipping)
Click to expand...
$350 might be reasonable if you go with one of similar small size or a bar top single player and get a Hell of a deal on EBay for a good monitor and have many of the tools already. And that's not factoring time required which is significant for design, woodworking, paint and significant setup of the software.

For a good monitor (you want reasonable latency), you can probably expect $70-100 depending on how hard you look or get lucky on a used one. Unless you go cheapo on the buttons and sticks, you are probably looking at $40-50 for Sanwa/Happ per player including wiring. The USB control board (unless you want to do some GPIO voodoo, which isn't recommended unless you really know what you are doing on the coding) is about $40 for a 2 player version. Raspberry Pi 3B plus case/mount, mem card and cords is another $50. Then you have lighting, decals and marquee depending on how fancy you want to go that can get costly. Speakers and amp or computer speakers about $25 depending on how good you want it to sound. Wiring, cord, power strip, electrical boxes, etc. aren't super cheap and you don't want to go too cheap here due to fire hazard. Then you have T-molding and paint and of course the wood (which is more expensive than you realize for good paint grade plywood).

For tools, you need a solid circular saw or table saw, jigsaw, a good drill, a router and knowledge of how to use them. The router bit for the T-molding alone is about $15. The forstner bits for the buttons (you need a 1" for the sticks and a 1 1/8" for the buttons if using standard) you can get for around $10-15 for decent ones to cut good holes without destroying the wood on the control panel. And there are other odds and ends I'm sure I'm forgetting.

All in all, the final result is really worth it on a do it yourself, my son and I loved building ours but it wasn't cheap and the Arcade1up is a much better option unless you just like doing projects like this. It took a couple whole weekends to make, but it wasn't my do it yourself first project, of course. If you do this though, spend time on the design ahead of time. Make sure you will have room for the number of players you want and the size monitor you want so it isn't too big or too small for your cabinet. Think through the angles to limit the mitred edges unless you have a great table saw. And figure out how everything is going to go together so that you can get back in and change things to tweak it or fix something.

 
Big Boss Mario said:
I wonder, when I buy it, I'll get that nostagia high, but when the PS5 comes out and I get it, nostalgia will be low and I'll still be able to return the Arcade 1Up to Costco because of their generous return policy.
Click to expand...
I haven’t touched my PS4 in 6 months to a year. What I like about the arcade cabs, especially when modded, is I’ll play for 15 minutes to a half hour and then move on.
 
defpally said:
$350 might be reasonable if you go with one of similar small size or a bar top single player and get a Hell of a deal on EBay for a good monitor and have many of the tools already. And that's not factoring time required which is significant for design, woodworking, paint and significant setup of the software.

For a good monitor (you want reasonable latency), you can probably expect $70-100 depending on how hard you look or get lucky on a used one. Unless you go cheapo on the buttons and sticks, you are probably looking at $40-50 for Sanwa/Happ per player including wiring.
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That's a really solid breakdown. I believe I mentioned the additional cost for tools, so we're thinking along the same lines.

Monitors in particular have dropped in price over the past few years. A decent IPS panel in the 27-32 inch range can be had for around $120-$180. You wouldn't want to go much larger than that for a single stand-alone cabinet, and for a one-player cab something closer to the 18-23 inch range would probably be more reasonable. IPS is important for the viewing angles, which are even more important if you are going for a multi-player cabinet, or a vertically oriented cabinet.

Arduino and other micro-computers have also reduced in price significantly. The base-line Raspberry Pi continues to be $35, and minimal screws and spacers for mounting it are in the sub-$10 range. (I actually just ordered some) There are also a much broader selection of micro-computers, so most people can affordably get an option that works for them.

Control rigs for the players can now be had for closer to $20 per-player. Of course, if you have an eye for quality you will want official Happ controls, which is closer to $50 per player, depending on number of required buttons. (Happ's 8-way ultimate joysticks are quite choice, and delightfully heavy-duty)

All in all, it's a good time to be dappling in this sort of hobby, as there are just farm more options at more affordable prices. The first arcade cabinet I constructed was a 7-foot tall monster with a 33-inch CRT monitor. (the weight was atrocious) Thanks to flat-screen options and cheap micro-computers, I'm now looking at the possibility of minimal-size arcades with more convenient profiles. I'm really thinking there is some possibility for coffee-table arcades with games developed around the idea of players sitting around the table.

 
Zeldafanatic15 said:
My 3 year old loves it, he's been having a blast with Crystal Castles. perfect height for him also. Being 6'4" it's not as easy for me, but if I kneel it's fine. It's a great looking cabinet with all the art on it.
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Yo, Crystal Castles is a spectacular rendition of Pac-Man. I'm glad your kid is getting into it! I feel ya on the height--I'm killing my posture using a piano bench to play my modded Asteroids.

Pig said:
I went to about 5 walmarts that said they had stock of either of the $75. None of them had any at any floor location listed. Checked with the employees and brickseek matched their internal inventory system in every case. Employees said that its likely a variance or a mixed sku receipt or something that caused the numbers to look off.

Disappointed that every store was so wildly off on their inventory numbers. My first store said limited stock and 2 in stock. All others were 3+ in stock for both.
Click to expand...
I don't understand how inventory can be so far off. It's one thing for someone to sneak a Snickers out of a Walmart, but an Arcade1Up cab...?

 
Richard Kain said:
...
Click to expand...
Yeah, you mentioned some of it, I just got on a roll typing and kept going.

I went with a 23" monitor to make a slightly smaller than standard cabinet, mainly to easily fit in doors and such since I wanted it upstairs in the man room. I spent $100 on a good new Dell IPS monitor for reasons you mentioned that would sit flat against the cabinet and not have buttons in the way. It also had a headphone jack so sound comes through the HDMI and tends to give better results than plugging sound directly in a Pi.

If anyone is going to make an arcade cabinet, for the love of all that is holy don't use $20 knock off rigs. That's like putting cheap tires on a sports car. Happ make good sticks, but I went with Sanwa with octo gates and staff extenders and am happy with the quality. I might eventually remove the extenders because they aren't really necessary and Sanwa looseness can cause them to snap back past center at times. I did go with Happ concave buttons, I just like them better than Sanwa convex or the lit ones some people like. Six action per player, 1 start, 1 coin and 1 "shift" so the coin doesn't have to share function per player.

I personally 3D printed the Pi bracket (and one for the USB controller) and it worked well. I also mounted a hidden quiet fan in case I ever want to mess with overclocking. Another good feature is a double USB port in the form of a button hole (1 1/8") which I mounted under the control area out of sight but easily accessible. I found it at t-molding.com (a great resource for control parts and t molding) and use it to attach extra controllers for 4 player or keyboard for configuring.

I got some ideas from YouTube for it (like having the side and bottom open up to have drawers/shelves for storage). The "I Like To Make Stuff" guy's channel is a fun watch. But I grew up working in an arcade and always liked helping the repair guy out and he taught me alot about how they worked.

 
defpally said:
From the looks of it they are very IKEA like in assembly, meaning they likely are not made to be disassembled well and will become hella unstable if done so. MDF does not respond well to screws being removed and rescrewed back in.
Click to expand...
I wondered about that when I've noticed issues after assembly and Arcade1Up support puts in an order to send me replacement parts. I noticed some scratches on the side panels and a black mark on a lighted marquee that wasn't really as apparent until lit. I'd have to take almost everything apart and put it back together.

 
defpally said:
(like having the side and bottom open up to have drawers/shelves for storage)
Click to expand...
A very good idea. While less "authentic," one of the biggest issues with arcade cabinets is the space they take up. One of the best ways to take the "sting" out of that is to design your cabinet to serve more than one purpose. Some nice storage shelves are a great way to use the empty space within the cab.

 
Richard Kain said:
A very good idea. While less "authentic," one of the biggest issues with arcade cabinets is the space they take up. One of the best ways to take the "sting" out of that is to design your cabinet to serve more than one purpose. Some nice storage shelves are a great way to use the empty space within the cab.
Click to expand...
It totally helps to get it past the look of disdain from the wife when we were making it. Think of the useful storage space! You can't really tell when looking at it, the knobs for the doors under the control panel are black and high up, and I used a tension latch inside the doors and one up top (which can be seen, but function took precedence here and it is just the top of it anyways). I also added blue strip LED lights on the back so it lights up around it giving it a cool 80's arcade look.

My wife thought I was crazy when we started, but even she couldn't avoid admitting it was a very cool addition to the man room and posted pictures of it on Facebook.

 
defpally said:
From the looks of it they are very IKEA like in assembly, meaning they likely are not made to be disassembled well and will become hella unstable if done so. MDF does not respond well to screws being removed and rescrewed back in.
Click to expand...
I can confirm this. The screw holes for my A1U Asteroids cabinet are almost worn out after removing the screws three times to upgrade the spinner, then the buttons, then install the plexiglass cover. Anyone thinking about modding the control panel of the A1U cab is probably best to not screw down the control panel until you've done all your modding work.

 
teh lurv said:
I can confirm this. The screw holes for my A1U Asteroids cabinet are almost worn out after removing the screws three times to upgrade the spinner, then the buttons, then install the plexiglass cover. Anyone thinking about modding the control panel of the A1U cab is probably best to not screw down the control panel until you've done all your modding work.
Click to expand...
This is why 2 out of 3 of my cabs are in pieces, heh.

 
Querjek said:
I'm pretty sure this should work, but you might want to contact Arcade1Up directly about it. They support the modding community and sell the PCBs directly from their site (https://arcade1up.com/collections/pcbs), so I'm pretty sure you'll get a response.
Click to expand...
This was their response to me asking if it's possible to swap a Galaga PCB into a Space Invaders cabinet...

[SIZE=10.5pt]Ticket# 65253[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]​[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

Thank you for contacting Arcade1up Gaming support.

[SIZE=10.5pt]​[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]In response to your question, each cabinet is specially customized in design with an aim to provide it's original retro feeling and [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]​[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]gameplay experience. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Hence, each cabinet differentiate among the others with its own unique features.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]We would appreciate that you get cabinets for your collection.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Should you have any questions, feel free to contact us.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Smily - Gaming Support [/SIZE]

WTF?

 
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husher said:
This was their response to me asking if it possible to swap a Galaga PCB into a Space Invaders cabinet...

[SIZE=10.5pt]Ticket# 65253[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]​[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

Thank you for contacting Arcade1up Gaming support.

[SIZE=10.5pt]​[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]In response to your question, each cabinet is specially customized in design with an aim to provide it's original retro feeling and [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]​[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]gameplay experience. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Hence, each cabinet differentiate among the others with its own unique features.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]We would appreciate that you get cabinets for your collection.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Should you have any questions, feel free to contact us.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Smily - Gaming Support [/SIZE]

WTF?
Click to expand...
TLDR version....yes, you can swap the PCB for $30 plus shipping, but we'd prefer you pay 10x that to buy a new cabinet.

I did some testing along these lines.I bought a Street Fighter and Rampage control deck when they had a glitch in their shipping costs and they only cost $1 to ship instead of the normal $20 for shipping, thinking that I'd use them when modding my Asteroids cabinets I picked up for $75. One of the Asteroids screens was bad, but when they finally sent a replacement screen, much my pleasant surprise, they shipped me a Final Fight LCD (which includes the Final Fight PCB).

I tested the Final Fight LCD with the Street Fighter and Rampage control decks and they sort of "worked" except for the fact that some of the buttons were mis-mapped...something that I believe should be easily fixed by swapping some of the connectors that plug into the board that connects to the ribbon cable. I think Player 1 for Final Fight worked fine for the Rampage control deck, but player 2's jump button was mapped to the completely wrong button (maybe the Player 3 start button or maybe a one for end directions on the Player 3 joystick).

Using a Galaga PCB in a Space Invaders cab should work, assuming they used the same wires for the same functions in the ribbon cable. If not, then you might need to swap some of the connectors in the control deck (if it's just one button switched with another) or rewire some connections if joystick wires are swapped with button wires.

Personally, Galaga is one of my favorite games (along with Robotron 2084), so now that it has dropped to $200, I'm actually thinking of getting it. I did place an order for local store pick-up (they already had it in stock), but will wait a few days to see if the price drops further. I mainly just want it for the cabinet art, but may leave it as a dedicated cab rather than modding it to run RetroPie since I don't want to mess up the control deck by drilling holes for additional buttons/joysticks.

 
husher said:
This was their response to me asking if it possible to swap a Galaga PCB into a Space Invaders cabinet...

[SIZE=10.5pt]Ticket# 65253[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]​[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

Thank you for contacting Arcade1up Gaming support.

[SIZE=10.5pt]​[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]In response to your question, each cabinet is specially customized in design with an aim to provide it's original retro feeling and [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]​[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]gameplay experience. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Hence, each cabinet differentiate among the others with its own unique features.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]We would appreciate that you get cabinets for your collection.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Should you have any questions, feel free to contact us.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Smily - Gaming Support [/SIZE]

WTF?
Click to expand...
Lmao. What a non-response response. I appreciate DarkonJohn's info, since it's first-hand. Space Invaders and Galaga have simple/limited controls, so I doubt there will be issues. I don't know why they would sell PCBs in the first place if they don't mean for them to be swapped out.

 
Querjek said:
Lmao. What a non-response response. I appreciate DarkonJohn's info, since it's first-hand. Space Invaders and Galaga have simple/limited controls, so I doubt there will be issues. I don't know why they would sell PCBs in the first place if they don't mean for them to be swapped out.
Click to expand...
I guess in case someone's craps out and they want to keep the machine? You're right in that I assumed it was something easily swapped and when I put together my Marvel cabinet I thought about not completely securing the screws down in the event that I decide to try swapping the boards in the future.

 
So Target has the Marvel Superheroes one without the riser for $250. I could get a separate vanilla riser for $45. But this version has a custom one for $400:

https://arcade1up.com/products/marvel-cabinet

Are the differences significant to warrant spending an additional $100 for the one on arcade1up ‘s website? Anywhere else I could get this in-store?
 
Xellos2099 said:
I saw someone posted they get star war machine for 375 with a coupon at best buy. Are they taking about the 25% off toy coupon?
Click to expand...
Yes, but supposedly it was a physical code from the printed mailer because the digital ones that were sent out in emails definitely don't work. I've been trying to find someone with an extra code to see it if still works because I'm guessing they added the exclusion sometime recently.

 
Xellos2099 said:
Well, I confirmed when I input the online promo code from the physical mailer, it took off 25%.
Click to expand...
Dang... I dug through my recycling to try and find it but I didn't get one.
Anyone out there have a code they don't wanna use? <beg>

EDIT: Got one and it worked! Big thanks to the user who sent me one but I won't name here because I don't want people to flood them with requests.

 
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teh lurv said:
I can confirm this. The screw holes for my A1U Asteroids cabinet are almost worn out after removing the screws three times to upgrade the spinner, then the buttons, then install the plexiglass cover. Anyone thinking about modding the control panel of the A1U cab is probably best to not screw down the control panel until you've done all your modding work.
Click to expand...
This is a tip to repair worn out screw holes that an old timer taught me years ago. Works on particle board.

Clean out the holes with a drill bit.

Transfer a small amount of polyester resin auto body filler or epoxy wood filler to a flat surface. Mix it with hardener in the manufacturer's recommended proportion.

Use wooden toothpicks to fill holes. Fit as many toothpicks as possible into the hole, then remove them and scoop a quantity of filler onto the ends. Replace them into the hole and leave them there until the filler cures, which should take about an hour. Cut off the ends of the toothpicks flush before you drive the screw back into the hole.

Sent from my SM-P580 using Tapatalk
 
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FloriDUH JBot said:
This is a tip to repair worn out screw holes that an old timer taught me years ago. Works on particle board.

Clean out the holes with a drill bit.

Transfer a small amount of polyester resin auto body filler or epoxy wood filler to a flat surface. Mix it with hardener in the manufacturer's recommended proportion.

Use wooden toothpicks to fill holes. Fit as many toothpicks as possible into the hole, then remove them and scoop a quantity of filler onto the ends. Replace them into the hole and leave them there until the filler cures, which should take about an hour. Cut off the ends of the toothpicks flush before you drive the screw back into the hole.

Sent from my SM-P580 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I was really waiting for an epic troll at the end with the use of a sledgehammer or something lol.

 
Don't foget the last step:

"Borrow yout kid's markers and attempt to draw the art back on as accurately as possible so your machine doesn't look like it had holes that were filled in with quto body resin."
 
E-Z-B said:
So Target has the Marvel Superheroes one without the riser for $250. I could get a separate vanilla riser for $45. But this version has a custom one for $400:

https://arcade1up.com/products/marvel-cabinet

Are the differences significant to warrant spending an additional $100 for the one on arcade1up ‘s website? Anywhere else I could get this in-store?
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Walmart has lowered their price to $250, but still, no riser.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Marvel-Superheroes-Arcade-Machine-Arcade1UP/433565690?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222228306353104&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=390810203186&wl4=aud-566049426705:pla-893871170877&wl5=1018127&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=347736344&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiAwZTuBRAYEiwAcr67OfkoaguGbuHIWJJY5V0lCpJ6tbwmCfGQNS1xo3ueb3GHeYFCvhJh3BoC9fwQAvD_BwE
 
Given the relatively high failure rate for the components of these A1Up cabs, I'm wondering how many people are buying the 2-year extended warranty with the cab when buying from Walmart. When I was looking at the Galaga cab for $199, the 2- year warranty was $16, which is certainly much less than buying almost any replacement part from A1Up after shipping is factored in. 

 
doctorwolf said:
Don't foget the last step:
"Borrow yout kid's markers and attempt to draw the art back on as accurately as possible so your machine doesn't look like it had holes that were filled in with quto body resin."
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I've fixed worn out screw holes on doorframes holding solid wood doors with toothpicks and wood filler. Shiz works. And yeah, the MDF on these cabs are garbage ... even by MDF standards.
 
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FloriDUH JBot said:
I've fixed worn out screw holes on doorframes holding solid wood doors with toothpicks and wood filler. Shiz works. And yeah, the MDF on these cabs are garbage ... even by MDF standards.
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I really wasn't kidding about that. I did something similar with my KI2 machine years ago and literally "drew in" the part of the Nintendo logo I patched over. Came out looking pretty legit too.
 
DarkonJohn said:
Given the relatively high failure rate for the components of these A1Up cabs, I'm wondering how many people are buying the 2-year extended warranty with the cab when buying from Walmart. When I was looking at the Galaga cab for $199, the 2- year warranty was $16, which is certainly much less than buying almost any replacement part from A1Up after shipping is factored in.
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I bought the warranty for my TMNT cabinet figured rather be safe than sorry.
 
doctorwolf said:
I really wasn't kidding about that. I did something similar with my KI2 machine years ago and literally "drew in" the part of the Nintendo logo I patched over. Came out looking pretty legit too.
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Def takes a surgeons touch

Might be able to sink a 2" screw vs the 1 1/2" included screws (at least this might be an option for the control panel problem.) Should be enough extra length to bite into some fresh MDF.

Not sure about this, but on Wave 2 and 3 machines - did they add metal mounting points for the screws to attach to?

If so, might be less of a problem on those cabs.

 
Upgraded a vertical cab with a JAMMA 60-in-1 kit. Really happy with how that turned out. Now, I am considering buying a Final Fight cab and modding w/ a Pandora's Box 6. I know that RetroPie offers more flexibility, etc. I just don't have the time to tinker. Barely have time to game anymore. So plug and play options like JAMMA 60-in-1 and Pandora's Box are my jam.

Anyone have thoughts on Pandora's Box? Also wondering about Pandora's Box 5 vs 6.

 
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FloriDUH JBot said:
Upgraded a vertical cab with a JAMMA 60-in-1 kit. Really happy with how that turned out. Now, I am considering buying a Final Fight cab and modding w/ a Pandora's Box 6. I know that RetroPie offers more flexibility, etc. I just don't have the time to tinker. Barely have time to game anymore. So plug and play options like JAMMA 60-in-1 and Pandora's Box are my jam.

Anyone have thoughts on Pandora's Box? Also wondering about Pandora's Box 5 vs 6.
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You could always go Pi and download one of the many Arcade1up images out there.
 
Anyone know the current cheapest place to get a riser?  I know Walmart had them clearances at $11 previously. Anywhere to pick one up on the cheap currently?

 
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